kaldek

Yeah I do. I fitted the clutch slave cylinder from the 2006 wreck I bought to my bike and the problem has gone away. I knew my slave cylinder was a bit shagged but when I fitted my 2002 slave cylinder to the 2006 motor initially it was absolutely rotten.

So in my case the problem appears to have been related to a dodgy sticking slave cylinder.

Is there a difference between blocking off the PAIR valve & just disconnecting the PAIR wiring connection on the 6th Gen? or do you have to do both?

You cannot just disconnect the wires because the PAIR system is enabled by default when there is NO power applied. Only when power is applied does PAIR shut off (it closes a valve). PAIR is always active except when the engine goes into closed loop mode (i.e. the O2 sensors trim the fuel), which is not very often.

Sticking a marble in the hose that comes from the airbox and goes to the PAIR valve solenoid will do the same thing as the PAIR block off plates. You need to raise the idle speed as well, and potentially adjust the fast idle wax unit as this controls cold engine idle speed. Both are affected when PAIR gets blocked off.

Thanks mate, I removed the copper grease. You're right, it's apparently good for threads and backing plates but not for sliders. While there I replaced the boots as apparently copper grease causes the rubber to swell. I used red brake grease to replace it as it's all I had handy and it's 9pm now.

5th gens do that too. If the rubber boot gets cracked or is torn the slider dries up and it stops floating like it should. I had to replace the rubber and grease it with high temp grease. Cleaned and polished the slider rod.

I lubed the new caliper's slider pins with coppaslip grease, just in case! I am surprised about how this happened, but maybe the pad spring needed to be replaced long ago and it moved so much over time that it caused the bracket to wear.

I did fit a new disk a few months ago, which turned out to be warped, and also my pads were worn down to the backing plate when I removed the disk. So I had a combination of warped disk and worn pads in there. Maybe the wear occurred really suddenly? I guess if a few other high mileage owners (Baileyrock?) check theirs out we'll know if it's a common thing.

OK here's the vid.

Oh, so it's just the mounting bracket with the slider pins then. Not the caliper itself.

Technically yes. Part number 06453-MBG-405 (non-ABS bike). Could be different part if the bike is ABS.

If you replaced that part you'd be good to go.

Really? Calipers can wear out?? Well, that's good to know!!! I'll keep it in mind, but considering the rate at which I put klicks on my '03, I'll be good for a few good years. I only got about 45,000km on it (third owner).

Thanks for the tip Kaldek!

Can I ask you to post a pic of the old and the updated beefier caliper if you can manage one without taking it off the bike? Just curious to see what it looks like...

C

Sure mate, video coming soon that shows this.

Here are the pics of how bad the 2002 caliper with 150,000KM on it was. I'm uploading a video of it to YouTube tonight as well.

If your 2002-2005 VFR is high mileage, I'd be taking a very close look at your calipers.

OK caliper has been changed. Even the brake pads are different on the '06+ bikes! Thank god I had just ordered some from Jake Wilson and ordered the "wrong" ones, which actually fit the '06 calipers!

Hey guys, lately my right-front caliper was making a grinding noise when I wheeled the bike around the garage. I found the source of the noise and it's not good. Basically the slot where the pad retaining clip sits has been worn out and is rounded! The pad retaining clip does not sit tightly anymore and it rides up to the point where it hits the edge of the disk. Given enough time, what's likely to happen is the pads will come flying out of the caliper!

I suggest anyone with a high mileage sixth-gen check their calipers to see if the cutout where the little pad retaining spring sits is rounded. If so, it's time for a new caliper!

I'm going for a ride tomorrow so I think I may need to commit some time to replacing the caliper right now. Luckily I have a caliper from a 2006 VFR just sitting around in my garage.

Also during my investigation I discovered that the 2002-2005 caliper is WAY different to the 2006+ caliper. The 2006 model caliper is much more beefy and its mounting point makes it sit differently against the disk. The left-front brake caliper is also different, but the rear caliper assembly is the same from 2002 onwards.

Anyone else already know this?

Yeah same procedure for all HISS bikes.

I am based in Australia and I bought one of these keys (PN: 35121-MAS-G01) but I think I should have bought PN 35121-MBW-601 which has the encoder chip.

Not to worry mate, I have some transponder chips spare. Do you want me to send you one? All you have to do is pop the chip in the key behind the plastic Honda logo and you're all done and ready for programming.

$10 and it's yours!

Here's my video on programming the new keys too:

I mean a battery should be totally trouble free for few years, and atleast over 40,000 miles. Ive not seen any lithiums do that on a motorcycle, maybe a camera , or computer.

One of the problems here is that people class all Lithium batteries the same. Lithium Polymer (LiPo) is just not suitable for vehicles and wears out fast. This is what laptops/iPods/iPads/Cameras use. They also tend to suffer from thermal runaway and "explode" easily.

Lithium Ferrite (LiFe) however is much more stable but has lower energy density than LiPo. Also some people are building LiFe batteries for bikes out of power tool cells, which can mean the battery design doesn't work well in the heat and vibration environment of the bike. Ergo, they fail and then all LiFe batteries get lumped into the "these are crap" category.

Companies like Shorai are the guys doing it right.

Your one of the few 20%, most have had major issues, but how many miles do you have on that battery, when you hit 45,000 miles trouble free, then we can have commentary, until then they are a waste of money, with what Ive seen thus far.

I've got too much exposure to Lithium battery technology (LiPo and LiFe) to agree with all these people saying how their battery is the problem. I'm willing to hang my hat on the fact that these people either have overcharging problems (15+ volts) or undercharging problems. Overcharging in particular damages the Lithium battery chemistry.

Also, they ripped me a new one for going with the Shorai battery instead of a much cheaper gel cell. They said the Shorai battery is probably half my problem as the power curve has a sharp drop off(?), I didn't really follow it all too well but basically they were saying that it's a race battery for race applications and no wonder I can't power all my stuff. In which case my thought was, well no battery is meant to run all the electrical stuff on its own, that's what the stator & r/r is for, right??

To put it mildly these guys are total dicks. "Race battery" my ass. It's a starter battery, ALL vehicle batteries are starter batteries and are not meant to ever provide power except during starting. Having said that, LiFe technology is much better at being asked to deep cycle than a lead acid starter battery is. You can discharge an LiFe battery at 150 amps till its flat or 10 amps until it's flat all day long and it will hold output voltage until discharged way better than lead acid technology can.

OK so here is a short discussion on LiFe batteries and this undercharging stator problem. The LFX Shorai batteries have much less capacity than a lead acid battery, but better peak current output per capacity rating.

So, to get 150 cranking amps out of a lead acid battery it needs to be about 7 amp/hours of capacity and therefore it weighs a lot. To get the same amps out of a LiFe battery you only need about four amp/hours of capacity, and the weight for that capacity is much less than for the similar capacity of lead acid.

So let's say your charging system is failing. Technically your bike should last LESS time before it stalls when using a Lithium battery because the capacity is less. However, it often averages out because while the basic capacity of the lead acid battery is higher, it has a a higher rate of voltage sag when high current is demanded of it.

For example if your bike is pulling 10 amps from the battery, a lithium battery may last longer because its output voltage won't crash as fast. It may have less capacity left in it than the lead acid battery, but the lead acid battery voltage dropped to, say, 9 volts already. And at this point your EFI system will shut down.

So here's the simple statement. Your Lithium battery may only have four amp hours of capacity in it (4000mAh), but you will get pretty much every drop out of it at full voltage (13+ volts) until almost the very end. Your lead acid battery may be 7 amp hours of capacity (7000mAh), but you won't get anywhere near that out of it before the output voltage drops off to less than 9 volts or so.

HID hi beam conversion installed, only running heated gloves as that's a necessity where I'm riding (14 F).

Just tested voltage @ the battery and here are the results:

Just sitting, the battery registers at 13.1v with no measurable leakage.

Idle is 700-1000 rpm @ 12.5v

2500 rpm @ 12.8v

3000 rpm @ 12.8v

4000 rpm @ 13v

5000 rpm @ 13v

So something is obviously wrong with the charging system. I have yet to test the stator and regulator/rectifier.

Talking with CG, they are suggesting replacing/upgrading these components with ones from Electro Motorsports that claim a 20% charging gain over OEM parts. Any thoughts on that? I'd include a link to the parts, but I'm unable to find Electro Motorsports online. New R/R and stator are running for $239.90 (S = $139.95, R/R =$99.95)

Also, they ripped me a new one for going with the Shorai battery instead of a much cheaper gel cell. They said the Shorai battery is probably half my problem as the power curve has a sharp drop off(?), I didn't really follow it all too well but basically they were saying that it's a race battery for race applications and no wonder I can't power all my stuff. In which case my thought was, well no battery is meant to run all the electrical stuff on its own, that's what the stator & r/r is for, right?? Ugh, now I'm getting that all too familiar headachy feeling

Getting a multimeter tomorrow and testing the Stator and R/R. Found my Haynes repair manual this morning.

Also, Cycle Gear was telling me that it's an 8 hour r&r on the stator & r/r as they were saying the components were probably buried, but after looking in the repair manual it looks pretty straightforward to me, everything is accessible by simply removing the side fairing and all I need (other than the replacement components) is a gasket for the main outer cover. Might need to find someone locally with a belt strap wrench(?).

Hookay everyone take a DEEP breath. The problem here is simple:

Your charging system is stuffed. The problem is your stator, it is not your regulator. Regulators regulate - yours isn't even regulating because the output from the stator is too low. I need to clarify this, as I remember replacing a regulator for a mate's ZX-12R which had failed, but I can't recall if it was NO charge or just a very low charge. So I need to clarify that it's *possible* that your regulator is faulty, but likely that it's your stator. As always, follow the electrosport fault finding guide.

OK, so now the question is what do we need to replace? To be honest, we need your engine number because the early 2003 models had the small shitty stator and the later 2003 (and all newer) models have the larger stator. I definitely recommend the larger stator as it has more output in total and more output at idle in particular. If you put in a larger stator you MUST put in a larger rotor, otherwise the rotor will smash into the stator.

Let me make something perfectly clear. There nothing wrong with pulling as many amps out of your stator as it can deliver. In fact it is BETTER for the charging system than pushing the regulator hard as it's not shunting current back into the stator! Obviously if you pull too much the charging system can't cope and you will flatten your battery. That's what is happening here, it's just that your stator is stuffed and it's putting out even less amps than normal.

So, what you need is a new stator and possibly a replacement rotor in order to bump up the output capacity of the stator IF your stator is one of the weak ones. I believe the weak ones are engine number 2503808 and earlier. If yours is one of those, you need to buy the Honda part 31100-MCW-315 which is the combined OEM stator and rotor (for only $194!).

So, how to get the rotor off? To get the bolt off you need only use an air ratchet gun with the motor in first gear. I tried to use a strap wrench but it didn't have enough grip with my girly strength.

After that all you need is the rotor puller bolt from Motion Pro. See here! http://www.vfrdiscus...post__p__784968

You bought a unproven battery and too many are having issue with the lithiums to even bother, I have zero faith in that choice

Uh, excuse me? LiFe battery technology is well proven and I have zero issues with mine some 20,000 kilometres in.

It all starts there or your charging will have to work harder and probably burn it up, prematurely. Obviously he's been running an unproven battery, that many have had issue with. Ive personally enjoyed the commentary on the New Tech, but wouldnt toch it with a ten foot pole, after the poor results..

Again, total bollocks.

It certainly can't hurt. The 6th-gen has two grounding blocks though; one is in the front wiring harness just near the headlights on the left-hand side. The other is between the frame and the motor on the left-side of the bike.

Dude if goo comes from your regulator it is totally fried. Time for a new one.

+1 on the nylon nut. Very, very common and easily fixed either by replacing it or putting some material in there to make it tight again. I would use some of that kneadable epoxy putty, put it on the rounded out portions of the nut and then push it onto the bolt to make the "mold" and then remove it to let it dry.

I think someone else did this, but I'm not sure exactly what material they used to fix it. My epoxy idea is not proven. Heck maybe they used silicon sealant!

if a pressure bleed was causing the motor to die he would notice the bike trying to lurch forward,especially if it was to the point of killing the motor, trust me I know exactly what it feels like. I really don't think this is a hydraulic issue.

This is an even better response than mine!

Pledged. I understand the argument that using your horn is the last thing on your mind (same here really), but it's that one day you need it to save your ass that makes $69 cheap.

Repeat the test with the bike on the centrestand. If it's air in the clutch lines the rear wheel will start to spin with the clutch pulled in. Rather than the bike dying it will just spin the wheel faster.

Most are developed from a dyno tune, yes. Some are hand crafted but a dyno tune is the only way to get is as right as possible.