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kaldek

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Posts posted by kaldek

  1. Good to know my videos are still out there helping folks even though I've moved onto BMWs...

    Anyway, the engine braking was one of my FAVOURITE things about my VFR. I used to love slamming it down a gear from high revs and just letting the bike slow me down while roaring its head off. *Especially* in traffic! The sound of a VFR with aftermarket pipes on the overrun is something I will miss forever.

    Even after ten years, my 2002 VFR800 still turned heads with its fat baby-eight exhaust note. If only the fuel injection wasn't so wonky...

    Also worth pointing out that I believe Ducati controls engine braking in the new Panigale motor by keeping the valves open on the overrun (I think it was exhaust valves). Doesn't help with the VFR of course, but people have solutions to the problem out there.

  2. Man when was the last time anyone saw a VFR with a chewed up crankshaft, eh? A rare thing indeed, and it looks like Honda really did have some machining issues with some early bikes.

    Glad I didn't buy one of the leftover 2010 VFR1200s - if the 2012 model was here I could have easily bought one of those over the K1300R at the time.

  3. Hi mate, I have a BUCKETLOAD of parts you may want. Specifically here, I have all the calipers (2002 model however) and a *complete* caliper rebuild kit - all seals.

    Note that the 2006+ front calipers are very different to the 2002-2005 calipers. The 2006+ models are much stronger, however they will both bolt to the forks of any 2002 and onwards bike. The front left caliper for an '06+ bike also needs specific '06+ hoses.

    Is there anything you need because I have two complete bikes in my garage, one completely torn down. I literally have everything.

  4. Question, what happens a 7,000 rpm that makes this bike really move? At lows rpms it is fairly docile but when it hits 7k, wow!

    The engine switches to VTEC mode. Basically under 7,000 rpm it's only using two valves per cylinder (1 intake, 1 exhaust) and above that it opens up all four.

  5. The comments about the Dynojet Optimizers being prone to failure were making me somewhat paranoid.

    Yes, the term "optimisers" is not exactly accurate. They renamed them because many newer model bikes don't fall for the resistor-in-the-heater-circuit trick. So, Dynojet have two products - one is the resistor, and the other is an actual optimiser but they call them both the same thing.

    What the real optimisers do is take the O2 sensor signal and mess with it, so that when the bike's ECU thinks it's hitting 14.7 AFR it's actually hitting about 13.6 AFR. I believe they're simple voltage dividers which convert a signal of 0.75 volts from the O2 sensor into about 0.500 volts (which denotes 14.7 AFR). So the bike ECU sees 0.5 volts but in order to see that number it actually has to richen up the mixture so that it's *actually* creating a 0.75 volt reading from the O2 sensor. They do not offer this product for the VFR800 because the ECU in our bikes is so brain-dead it's easy to fool. In fact I think all the Honda systems are still dumb as dog crap. If you go to the Powercommander website, install instructions for Honda bikes will say "plug in O2 optimiser, you can then leave the O2 sensor disconnected or remove it from the exhaust". However for a modern Yamaha bike, the install instructions will say "plug the optimiser in-line between the O2 sensor and the ECU". Subtle difference, no?

    For those bikes, the Powercommander instructions will also say stuff like "don't tune any cells between 0 and 15 percent throttle and 0-6,000rpm". However, since the Honda is, as I say, brain-dead you are actually able to tune the Powercommander in those ranges. So I guess the Honda stupidity kind of makes it easier to tweak the bike...

    There are more advanced systems on the market (not from Dynojet) which replace the narrowband O2 sensor with a wideband one, but include a calculated narrowband voltage output. These are nifty for engine tuning whilst keeping the closed loop capabilities of the stock ECU in place.

    Does that make sense?

  6. Well, the O2 eliminator resistor is connected to the heater circuit. The resistor is basically fooling the ECU into thinking the O2 sensor is not up to temperature, so it never goes into closed loop mode.

    if the resistor failed and went open circuit you would get an OS sensor heater error (error 23/24). If the resistor failed and shorted, that would trip the ECU fuse. If the resistor failed to the point where the ECU thought the O2 sensor was heated up, you would get an O2 sensor error (error 21/22) when the bike went into closed loop as it would see an open circuit.

    The most likely scenario would be getting an error code 23 or 24 if the resistor failed.

  7. Btw, are 6th gen COPS not an option? It looks like they have a very low profile which can be useful behind the radiator, and maybe they fit the 3rd-4th gen head well.

    6th-gen COPs are three-wire plugs. They remain permanently fed by a common 12 volt source and the ECU sends a trigger command to the coil which causes it to charge up and then fire. The "ignition control module" is inside the coil, so there is no risk of the coil drawing too much current and damaging the ECU; it can only damage itself (the primary windings and transistor).

    I suppose the real question is - how does the trigger circuit work and could it be connected to the 4th-gen ignition module? I don't know enough to say why it would be possible or impossible.

  8. If you're considering a Screaming Banshee, this video will show you how and where to install it. Note that it's specific to the non-ABS model bike and a different location would be required if your bike has ABS. Another member mounted theirs to the stock horn location, but anywhere under the fairing will work. Your only limits will be cable lengths but you can always increase those as needed.

  9. kaldek (And everyone else)- not really a good idea to show a picture of your key on the net, it is not hard to make a key from that picture especially for someone who know's what they are doing, you don't want to make it easier for someone to take your bike.

    That is highly, highly unlikely. It's not a Ducati Panegale S, it's a ten year old VFR!

    So, someone copying my key based on my video and then tracking me down to steal my bike (which they will know has been in pieces and had lots of problems - based on my other videos)? Nah, there are easier targets on every street corner in Melbourne.

    Just because something is possible doesn't mean it's going to happen. Risk management is my day job, so I do lots of things people think are crazy because either A) the possible outcome is negligible or B) the likelihood is extremely low.

    • Like 1
  10. Just for the record my riding style is fast into a corner less throttle out due to lean angle so I need to trust the front end, it's not always the fastest way around a corner but it's what I enjoy the most.

    Wow, totally the opposite to how I ride, which is slow in fast out. I've always felt more comfortable doing that. Doesn't mean I'm right or fast though!

  11. How does one measure the impedance value then?

    You'd need to test and compare current flow of both coil types somehow.

    Isn't this the one case where you can just measure the resistance across the terminals of the coil, and the result is indeed the impedance? I know all our talk about resistors in series wasn't right now, but isn't this measurement an exception?

    No, there is more to it. Something about electromagnetic something or other. I wish Bernie would get back online to help out with this.

    That might mean that the CBR stick coils - even though the measured resistance is wrong - could be just fine for our purposes...

  12. How does one measure the impedance value then?

    You'd need to test and compare current flow of both coil types somehow.

    Isn't this the one case where you can just measure the resistance across the terminals of the coil, and the result is indeed the impedance? I know all our talk about resistors in series wasn't right now, but isn't this measurement an exception?

  13. Sorry, but I have to turn this whole thread on its ear.

    I talked to Poncho about this, he's a master electrician so I figured he'd be the best person to ask.

    Resistance has very little to do with this. That is, the primary resistance we're all checking with our meters on the coil terminals. The secondary resistance, which is checked by measuring resistance from coil to plug end of wire, also has little to do with this.

    The one thing that truly determines if there is any benefit or risk to this mod, is the IMPEDANCE VALUE of the coil. A coil with a lower impedance than the oem coil, will flow more current. More current flow (or should I say, less restricted current flow), will increase current flow through the upstream components (read: spark box/CDI/ECU), and within that condition lies the potential for damage to those components.

    OK so you're saying that using resistors won't stop the coil from pulling too much current. I get it!

  14. So I'm not sure about just adding a resistor to the chain to increase the coil resistance. It seems to me that the coil itself needs to provide the resistance. But I'm no electrical wiz...

    Resistance in series can absolutely work. There's lots of info and circuit diagrams showing how to do this, and it's the reason why running two 1.6 ohm coils in series results in 3.2 ohms of resistance. Same thing.

  15. I already thought about the resistors. Dunno if it would work or not?

    I suspect it would.

    It should, considering that the purpose of the resistor here is merely to ensure that the coil does not get overcharged and that the coil does not demand so much current that the transistors in the ECU burn out. What I'm unsure of is whether the flyback voltage (10 microsend 400 volt pulse) could damage the resistor. It would be extremely low current though, so likely not. I suppose the right resistor would be a combination of ohms and the right wattage.

    And that's where my knowledge gets very hazy. Right now there are electrical engineers sharing this URL and laughing their asses off, I'm sure.

  16. Exactly. The coils are NOT the same resistance. And I don't wanna toast my ECU. If I already had a spare ECU I'd go for it.

    I can't remember now if I'd clarified this (as it was last year), but it's possible that just banging on a resistor in series with the +12v feed to each coil to bump it up to 3.2 ohms could work fine. I found some articles where people are already doing this on cars when the coil primary winding resistance was too low. So if the coils are 1.6 ohm but need to be 3.2 ohm, a 1.6 ohm resistor in series with the coil could be the way to go?

    Ultimately we need RangerScoot to get around to backprobing his coils and measuring the current with a digital oscilloscope and ammeter. If it tops out around 7 amps on his new coils - all is good.

    I have all the tools needed right here....in Australia.

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