5thgendaily

Thanks Terry for the sound advice. However this bike has left me stranded too many times to not panic when electrical issues arise. My concern is that this did not used to happen. It just started about a week ago. If my radiator fan is draining as much voltage as your heated grips, then shouldn't that be alarming? Or is it just chalked up to be poor VFR electrical engineering, and no cause for alarm?

Just when I thought I killed off the gremlins..... Once the bike heats up to when the fan kicks on, the idle charge drops from a 13.9-14.1 V down to as low as 12.8 V. Have R/R from roadstercycle (less than year old), hardwired to a Ricks stator (less than 2 years old), and a few month old Shorai Lithium-Iron battery. Just replaced all coolant hoses about a month ago... wondering if this could be a cause? I've done "The Drill" so many times, I now do it in my dreams. Everything checks out fine, stator putting out proper ACV, continuity/grounding tests come out good. R/R is doing its job, I have never seen it hit 15 V, battery is rock solid. I've checked the infamous orange grounding block, didn't look fried up at all. I'm thinking there must be a shortage or grounding issue on the bike, or maybe something with the electrics involved in the cooling system. I also noticed a burnt out tail light bulb and a headlight bulb that will flicker on and off a few seconds upon starting the bike. Anyone else experience this?

Thanks All! I replaced the rearset with a "new" one from ebay. Brake and brake light working great..... But as I was riding today I noticed my voltmeter reading between 13.1V and 12.8V. at idle! Replaced the R/R with a Mosfet from Roadstercycles about a year ago, along with installing a Shorai battery. The stator is a Rick's and was replaced maybe 3 years ago (only about 6k miles on it). Bike runs amazing when everything is working, but I've dumped so much money in the last year and my frustration is growing. Please talk me out of selling!

Any suggestions on how to remove this stripped screw? It's in just about the worst spot. Finally got the clevis pin, a new rearset, and the proper socket to take off the swingarm pivot nut, just hung up on this b****.

Does anyone know what size this swingarm pivot bolt hex nut is? I see the torque spec in my manual, but not the nut size.

VFROZ, That is a thing of beauty. I have a million questions about your bike... To keep it short, where did you get those rear sets, and what kind of exhaust do you have? Looks immaculate m8.

Thanks a bunch Terry, and everyone else. Ordered a new pin and rear set. I just replaced all radiator hoses right before this ordeal, so hopefully she'll be ready for some serious miles next week.

I was thinking something else like a pin may be missing because of the extreme slack on the brake lever. I'm trying to find the part online, does it look like number 10 in this diagram? Thanks for pointing that out.

Hello Fellow VFR Nuts, As I was riding today the rear brake stopped working. It looks like a plastic piece on the rear set that holds the rear brake light switch has broken.... and upon further inspection it appears that the previous owner tried to plastic weld, or put some type of adhesive previously. I am wondering if this means I need to order a new rear set on the brake side, or should I buy a plastic weld kit and try that again? Besides the broken piece, is there anything else I need to do to make the brake work again? Thanks in advanced for any help or advice. Best Regards, Noobie

Hello, After burning through 3 R/R's in four years, I've decided to go with the Mosfet R/R for my 5th Gen. I've never installed a RR before so I'm hoping I can get some advice from you guys. Looks like the faulty RR fried my stator connector wires to a crisp (check out the bacon in the photos below). Does this mean I need to order new wiring for the stator itself too? Or is it something that can be soldered? On a side note, I need to remove a stripped screw on my tail fairing in order to completely access the R/R. It's in an odd spot that bolts into the sub-frame. I'm probably just gonna pick up a dremel to try and get it out. Already tried the rubber band trick to try and get it out... and since it's on the subframe I don't feel comfortable trying to drill it out. If you have any suggestions for that problem too, would very much appreciate it. Cheers!

Thank you all for the replies. I had a feeling there was supposed to be some type of ball socket for the pushrod, it must be the wrong fitment. I've emailed the eBay seller, hopefully I can get the correct one sent asap. Those darn Chinese.... at least they were cheap!

Hello, I am in the middle of replacing my levers, but I am having trouble with the brake side lever. I can't seem to find where the reservoir pin is supposed to go in. There was a specific spot on the clutch side, and was very easy. Please Help!!!