enzed_viffer

Good stuff Magellan, would like to see longer term effects to driveability and mpg.

:beer:

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mpg? MPG?!?

Good grief, Man! If I'd wanted an economical bike, I'd've (can I do that?) bought a scooter.

Besides, after the VTR1000 GGM (Gas Guzzling Monster), anything's economical. It did worse fuel mileage than any of our cars.

No, we want MORE POWER! and BETTER ACCELERATION! and especially MORE THRILLS!

Oh, well you'll definitely have to go get a whole new set then... :goofy:

Goodie! I love buying tools and like that there. :thumbsup:

As far as the spring seat goes, you'll find that it has a small cup in the center (imagine this from the inside of the FPR - it's like a Lego bump that the spring sits around and atop so it doesn't move around), into which you can center the ball bearing. With the pry bar pushing on the bearing opposite the cup, you'll apply even pressure to the edge of the cup as you push it inward. It's easier than it sounds once you see what the FPR looks like; I imagine finding a big ball bearing will be the hardest part of the job!

PS: Yeah, I was just using the socket as a drift. The bearing will center even better.

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Thanx for that - I had an idea that it was as you described, but it may have been flat, for all I knew, in which case the ball-bearing could've distorted the seat.

Last question: Does this constitute "fiddling"? The reason I ask is that the co-pilot/co-owner/accountant has expressly forbidden fiddling on our bike.

I'm already in trouble for fitting an EvoStar Shift Kit, and while she was away in Murka I fitted (on loan only) a PCII a friend with a '98 lent to me. I've got a few hours to come up with a convincing explanation for that. :beer:

There's not enough clearance between the frame and the butt end (spring seat) of the FPR for a socket; thus the ball bearing idea...

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Yeah, I figured that was the case.

In the picture of you wielding the finely tuned hammer, are you whacking - sorry - carefully and expertly adjusting the seat with a socket as a drift? If one uses a ball-bearing instead, is this likely to be problematic? I've no idea what the spring seat looks like - would adjusting it with a finely tuned prybar and a non-metric ballbearing cause any buckling of the seat? Does it matter?

Which prybar should I use? I have four, and I'm not sure which (if any of them) is metric...

Do you have to use a ball-bearing to push the seat in? (I ask because I've no idea what it looks like). Like, would a socket of the appropriate diameter do?

I'll post more when I get to road-test it.

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Road test completed.

It works: Snickety-Snick.

I'm not sure if it's due to cleaning all the spooge off the bike, the new erl (Mobil 1), or that star thingo (technical term).

Should I replace them one at a time till I work out which one did the trick? :goofy:

This is a mod i have been meaning to do the last 2 winters and never got around to it.

I guess it was " mine shifts fine" although i've had more than a few false neutrals between 5th and 6th... not good.

I rode a a friends 6th gen a couple times and noticed an immediate difference in the "short throw" of the 6th gen over my 5th. The shifting on his bike was smooth and short. I loved it. I wonder would this install compare to the smoother , shorter shifting on the 6th gen? Anyone? Trace?

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Anyone here. :blink:

I test-rode a 6th gen and my current bike back-to-back, and they were very similar (should be - they share all except gear ratios), and both very slick.

The reason I ordered the shifter kit is that most of my riding is commuting around town, which in itself is hard on transmissions (lots of gear changes, lots of accelerating/decellerating, etc.) and I think I'm a serial transmission wrecker. :goofy:

The gear change was starting to lose its precision, and as it's the best shifting Honda I've ever owned, I was rather alarmed, so I figured (based on the reports) that the kit may help me retain most of the slickness of the gearbox, and help to avoid further trashing of the whirly bits.

I'll post more when I get to road-test it.

All right!

My shift kit is now installed and working (yet to be road-tested). The install was pretty straightforward, thanx to Trace's and Jetpilot's great illustrated instructions. The only hard parts were getting the fairing panel off (despite having done it twice before, it was still a pain, thanx to the plastic clips), and removing a vast quantity of impacted chain spooge from behind the countershaft cover.

No pix, I'm afraid, as the bike is so embarassingly grubby, and I have nothing much to add to the already detailed instructions previously posted.

<font color='#FF0000'>are the 90-93 wheels polished under the paint.I noticed that the older wheels are smoother than the new ones do you know if they have to be polished?</font>

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The spokes on the 90-93 wheels are roughcast, whereas on the VFR800 they're smooth. Rims are polished on both bikes.

<font color='#000000'>They get dirty of course, but the upkeep is about as much as they were before, getting the chain wax off, tar from the road, ?They dont seem to tarnish its aluminum. ?Just about the same as the oem paint wheels. :beer:</font>

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I don't agree, although it may depend on the original colour/type of finish.

I had white painted wheels on my 1990 VFR750, and because they were quite chipped and scratched, decided to strip them. It took me about 4 hours to strip, clean and polish (with Autosol) both wheels.

I found that they actually took LESS work once stripped, as the road spooge and brake dust didn't tend to stick as much to the polished metal as it did to the paint, probably due to some electrostatic thing with the paint. Instead of needing some elbow grease and heavy-duty cleaner, most of the grime came off very readily with the hose. Also, any grime that was presetn didn't stand out as much.

The silver painted wheels on my current bike seem to be somewhere in between the polished 750's wheels and the white paint, and the bikes I've had with black-painted wheels it was easy to ignore the grime as it didn't show up as badly.