enzed_viffer

This made me laugh out loud - for real. Of course, I'm on a train home from the city, so everyone around me was a bit startled.

So did you find the issue, Eeen?

As we say here: Yeah, nah.

If I ask my wife (sitting next to me, watching TV), she'll know what the issue is:

"Stop fiddling with the farkn thing, and take it in to the dealer!"

Fairy nuff, eh?

OK - this is now officially seriously weird. After cleaning various plugs, yet being unable to get rid of the bogus ECU error codes, as a last resort, I stuck the resistors back in the O2 sensor plugs.

And the error codes mysteriously evaporated.....

it simply may have had oxidation on the tangs. and when you unplugged/replugged you gave it a better /cleaner connection.

Nup.

The O2 sensors had been sprayed with contact cleaner, plugged and unplugged (several times), as had the plugs to the ECU. It just doesn't add up: the error codes: #2 injector fault - bike won't run (which it did), and map sensor and barometric sensor errors, then them disappearing just because there's resistance across the O2 sensor heater sockets.

Either there's some serious short-circuits, the ECU's fubar, OR there's more to fitting resistors to fool the ECU than we're aware of.

Riding to work this morning, the bike definitely runs a wee bit worse than with the O2 sensors enabled (has a low-RPM unevenness, if not misfire). So, I guess I need to decide which is better: the Glowing Red Evil Eye of Doom constantly glaring balefully at me, or annoying non-smoothness. Both piss me off, and are sub-optimal, but given that the bike is now a 15-minute each way transport donkey for my commute to/from my place of unenjoyment, mebbe it doesn't really matter. (Unless of course, either of these options results in the bike bursting into flames, killing me, then crashing and killing me all over again. Coz, y'know, I *hate* it when that happens.

And that's what I think.

Or something.

Or not.

Dunno really...

OK - this is now officially seriously weird. After cleaning various plugs, yet being unable to get rid of the bogus ECU error codes, as a last resort, I stuck the resistors back in the O2 sensor plugs.

And the error codes mysteriously evaporated.....

It's not the only awkward paint colour; I tried to get some blue touch-up paint from an automotive paint supplier, and they said it wasn't as simple as one colour; it actually was three different coats, with the amount of purple and blue varying, followed by the gloss topcoats. So.... it's touched up in places with paint from my spousal-unit's last car, which isn't even remotely close. I shoulda just said to the guys at Smits ; "Bugger it; I don't care if it's not a perfect match, just give me some anyway.

There wasn't a 23 in the list, so I don't think it's that.

But... my opinion is that unless there's an O2 sensor error (which I would expect), all/any error is actually more likely to be due to the plugs/wires on the ECU being in less than perfect condition, due to being unplugged/plugged in again too many times. For now I'm going to ignore fault codes, make sure the connections on the ECU are good, then reset again and see what comes up.

I think there's a 10 and a 13 (seeing as there's no 23). I'll have to wait until I get home from work to find out what they mean.

The thing that I really don't get is that there were no codes when I had resistors fitted to the O2 sensors to deactivate them (MANY years ago). As soon as I removed these and plugged the sensors in again, the FI light came on. Obviously doing the resistor bypass / O2 sensor unplug thingo actually does more than just fool the ECU into believing the sensors are OK.

I was expecting a code or two, maybe something about the sensors.

Gah!! And double GAHHH!!

It seems it's almost impossible to upload an image or work out where things live. If only I was a Computer Dude.

Oh... wait. I'm supposed to be, having worked in IT for the last 19 years or whatever.

Like, WHATEVER!!!

Anyhoo, I finally found the diagnostic plug/port/thingo. It was VERY hard to find, and I had the perfect pic to show how hiding it was.

It was hiding underneath the R/R cooling fan, below the frame, and being dark there, and sort of dirty black, and small, it was VERY hard to see or find. Now relocated to under the seat, where I can now access it easily (for all the good that does.... )

So, I followed the procedure in the manual (SEVERAL times), and it was VERY confusing, and didn't really help much, as I got several error codes, including some that don't exist. So, I still don't know what's what. Either something on my bike is borkt, or it's not. It runs as well as it did before, but the FI light is still illuminated, despite running the procedure to clear it.

Dang.

Here's a thought: change to metric (it IS a metric bike, after all); that will reduce the numbers by more than 50% !

Thankee kindly, gentlemans.

I'll have a nuther look, see iffen I can find where it's hiding. I suspect the problem is that its alleged location is perilously close to the Mines of Mordor where I mounted the BigAss R/R cooling fan, many moons ago (which seems to be doing its job well), and also in the same region as where I foolishly cut off the connector where all the grounds/earths for the bike congregate. (I say "foolishly", as there was no evidence of corrosion or problems, but the huge wad of soldered-together wires will undoubtedly be subject to both. "D'Oh!!!" and all that.)

More lately, apart from replacing my tail-light and indimicators with Thurn LEDs, I've taken to leaving my bike alone or even (Shock! Horror!!) paying others to do the messy maintenance work.

I haven't yet ridden a VFR1200, with or without DCT, but I've owned a car with DCT for the last couple of years, and I mostly really like it - it's light years ahead of the standard automatic with slushbox car. However, a consideration is the servicing costs; it needs a service every 50,000km ( ~ 30,000 miles) and the special fluid (baby lesbian Afghani fur-seal penguin whale oil) is VERY expensive, at around NZ$60 per litre, so the service cost me over $600.

The car is kind weird, allowing you to use full automatic, tiptronic, or paddle shifters, which is overkill. I've found that even driving in 'S' mode, while the transmission ECU 'learns' and adapts to how I'm driving, I still need to use the paddles sometime to downshift going into corners, etc.

While apparently I'm not qualified to comment on bikes with DCT, having never ridden one, I don't have any real desire to do so. Having ridden bikes for over 40 years, and driven manual-transmission cars for the same amount of time (plus trucks for over 30 years), I actually enjoy the experience of changing gears on the bike, matching revs for downshifts, etc. Just wish my VFR hadn't developed the standard Honda gearbox crappiness, despite fitting a shifter kit when I first bought it.

Yeah, the thing that you stick a paperclip (aka a "jumper wire") into, to get the ECU to reveal it's secrets about who did what to which, and why the elephant in the room (aka the glowing red evil eye of doom) is SO angry. Someone must have stolen it, unless of course it just fell off on one of those many, many tiresome occasions when I crashed, died, burst into flames, and died all over again (I *hate* it when that happens!! ).

And anyway, you're a likely suspect; replying to my topic in such a nonchalant way kind proves it, n'est ce pas?

LOLeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Hi Ian, glad to see you back, and only slightly crispy and well-done.

Rob! Have you got my diagnostic / service port connector thingo?

Whelp, back out to the garage with a big-ass magnifying glass to see if I can find this plug....

Nope. What's up with that?!?

Maybe I plugged the Pentium fan cooling the R/R into it?

Anyhoooo... the bike still seems to run as well / as badly as before. And I ride as mental well as before, so....

Yeah, this is all great.

Or grate.

But I can't find the freakin' service port / diagnostic connector.

Yes, I have a service manual.

I also have a whole bunch of extra wiring and stuff, like an accessory fusebox, and .... um... accessories.

For all I know, I may have wired the port/connector thingo into the fusebox. Hoo nose?

I've had a major operation, y'know, and most stuff prior to June 18th, 2010 has fallen out of my head, courtesy of being on drugs and machines for hours. For all I know the fookers took my brane out while they were poking about inside and replaced it with a sheep brain. That would explain the stupidity, like forgetting that I hated where I used to work, and leaving a great (if underpaid) job and getting another job with my old employers. (I'm paying for it now Well... at least they have free beer on Friday afternoon. Which I can't drink coz I ride a freakin' misbehaving VFR! Grrrrr!!)

Wait - the freakin' perfusionist rode a scooter, and although I warned him not to add two-smoke oil to my blood, I bet the fooker did just that!! It was probably me that probably gave him the idea! Oh nose!!

Whelp, back out to the garage with a big-ass magnifying glass to see if I can find this plug....

cos you will crash, burn, die and then do it all over again...............

Yes indeed, Leon. To be honest, despite doing lots of stupid things, it's one of the very few times I was worried about that. There I was, holding the laminate trimmer with hands and knees, spinning at 20k rpm (the trimmer, not me), wildly vibrating (both of us), and thinking, "OH CRAP!! This won't end well!"

I only *just* managed to bump the power switch with my knee, and eventually it wound down and my teeth stopped rattling.

Another stupid thing was bedding in new front brake pads on the VTR1000 I used to own, by repeatedly braking hard, after reading a report years ago that said that was the best way to do it.

But apparently not on a damp road infested with tar snakes.

I found out what mild concussion is like, after landing on my head in front of some guys doing road repairs.

At least they didn't laugh, and I didn't burst into flames that time.

Helllooooo, Vifferatis (vifferistas? Vifferpersons? Vifferzes? I dunno! )

Yesterday, for some weird and wonderful reason, totally unbeknown to anyone (including me), I decided after many many moons (too many to count), that I would plug my O2 sensors back in. Yes, yes! I know,Hmm hmm, oh dear, too bad, so sad. But (however!) before you cross me off your Viffer Xmas card list, I had a good reason for doing so.

I felt like it.

Even though I cleaned the plugs with stuff, to remove any insects or spooge that might be inhabiting them, when I turned the ignition on (by softly caressing it, and whispering sexy suggestions in its non-existent ear), there was a thing! A Glowing Red Evil Eye of FI Doom, to be approximately precise.

So, I whipped out the manual (i.e., I fossicked through my drawers with a fossicking tool), and eventually I found a plastic thing, and stuck that in my flaptop computing device. It was not happy about that, so I sucked Adobe Acronaut into it, cleared off the crumbs of dried mud, and voila! A small, misspelted musical inmplement.

Apparently (so they reckon), to divine what this evil portent of doom from the viffergods means, I had to put the side-stand down, sacrifice a Suzuki or two, examine their entrails, turn the ignition on (by softly caressing it, etc etc) and it would reveal STUFF.

Nothing.

So there's no fault (apparently), yet Effie is not happy with me, glaring at me with her Special Evil Eye.

Runs approximately as it did yesterday.

Soooooo... now what, Hmmmmm (viffer sound FX)?

Is it bad? Benign? Benighted? Broken?

Should I just stick some black duct tape over it so it doesn't fill me full of fear of Impending Doooooom?

Should I paint it black, to match the other two vehicles in the garage (honorary Viffers, since they both have 'V' in their names)?

What? What?!?!?

I did mine when I first got the bike 10 years or so ago. I'm too poor to own a Dremel, so I used a Makita laminate trimmer. By the way - don't use one of these with a low-speed grinder bit to remove your chain's masterlink.

Unless you're bored.

Or stupid.

Or lazy, bored and stupid like me.

It all fall down to 3 simple questions:

1/engine size: 600, 620, 695, 696,750, 796, 800, 900, 1000, 1100

.... or 400. Or 1200.

I commute in stop start traffic, dropping a tooth at the front made a huge difference.

As far as cruising speed, 5000rpm at 110kph (GPS) I can live with.

That's the reason I went down a tooth on the front sprocket for a couple of years. as virtually all my riding was commuting (at less than 100km/h). Been back to stock ratios for a while now though, and it's fine.

As it's been said a few times, what's inside the device is more important than the device brand itself, even having the stock shock rebuilt can make a huge difference.

Yup, totally agree. The suspension on my VFR has been through a few changes, but is currently Showa forks with Ohlins and Racetech internals, and Elka shock with Ohlins internals. It's GOOD.

What is the obsession with the whole gear driven cams thing? I mean really, what practical advantage would gear driven cams have over modern chain driven ones...?

Nothing's wrong with a modern chain driven valvetrain..........if only Honda can ever figure out how to finally design a CCT that will stay silent. Heck, pretty much all my dad's bikes (except for his Goldwings which had a dry belt valve drive with idler wheels) in the 70's had their CCTs make a racket after a few thousand miles.... why it still happens today with their bikes is ridiculous.....

Eggs Zachary! Honda should just say, "Y'know, we're really crap at camchain tensioners - let's buy them from Suzuki, or work out how to make a quieter gear-driven cam system!"

I've had 7 or 8 Hondas, and the only ones I didn't have CCT problems with were three: a two-stroke, and two VFRs with gear-driven cams.

As for USD forks - I don't care! My customised Showa/Ohlins/Racetech front forks and Elka/Ohlins rear shock are good enough for me.

The shop manual states 98-102 on and 93-97C off.

Is it?

Mine was 106 on, 96 off. So I fixed it: it's now 95 on, 85 off. Unless I flick the switch and turn it on earlier.

Oh, I'm sure it CAN be opened, but not with 2-3 strong guys. It weighs too damn much.it's not sectional, it's one solid piece of....oak? Whatever it is, it's solid.

I think you missed my point - if a single person is unable to open it when the opener is disconnected, then the door has an issue. If it's THAT hard to move by hand, then the opener is working just as hard. And they aren't designed to have to put out that much effort to lift a door - regardless of type - unless it's a commercial door.

If you have a sectional, wooden door, and the assist springs / torsion spring lets go, you can not lift manually by yourself. That's exacty why the lift springs are there.

Indeed. I've got a sectional pressed steel panel door, and twice in the last 10 years one of the springs has broken (different side each time). I found if I disconnected the door from the chain drive, I could lift it with some effort, but with both broken - I don't think so. And I'd imagine that at 94kg the door is much lighter than a wooden one.

I've been riding for over a year now, with a Sena SMH10 in my Shoei RF1100 (which has cutouts by the ears). I use it every day, to listen to music while commuting, streamed from my Nokia N8 cellphone (which I can also use for calls, etc.)

After experimenting with several setups, including several types of earbuds, the thing which works for me is using the in-helmet speakers, an accessory Shoei windblocker (can't remember the proper term - whisper kit perhaps?), and Howard Leight earplugs solely to cut out the wind noise, because they're not great at cutting out ALL the noise like my preferred 3M plugs. I also don't have them inserted fully. Then I have the volume on the Sena up to about 80%, and can hear the music very clearly, and other noise such as the engine, traffic, as low-level background noise. I also have an SM10, and a second headset in my wife's Shoei, with earbuds, but apart from testing it, she's never used it, as she bought a 2013 VW Golf Cabriolet, so she'd rather we went in that on nice days than travel on the bike. :(

I *was* going to do that, but instead decided to KISS. So I mounted my door remote under the front fairing above the headlights, and have wires going back to the right-hand switchblock, where I added a waterproof switch (not that it matters) where there's a blank (normally occupied by a light switch on UK/Euro bikes?) All I need to do is a quick press with my thumb, and voila! (A small misspelled musical instrument). Oh - and the door goes up. Or down. Or up AND down if I've taken the scenic route home and my SpousalUnit is approaching from the other drirection and using the remote in her cabriolet. OOps. Marital discord.....

Been on there for some years now, and haven't even needed to change the battery. If it does go flat, I might just wire it up to the battery, seeing as it's a 12V remote.

That is too involved to be considered KISS. Keeping it in a jacket pocket would be KISS.

Only in the initial installation. Having to stop and fumble around in a jacket pocket (especially if it's raining) is not my idea of simple (and what I had to do with my previous few bikes). I ride to work every day, so that's at least three uses per day (usually use the switch in the garage for opening first thing in the morning).

I can't be bothered going back to the post where this is discussed, but instead of bastardising a K&N to get more airfilter area and better airflow, the airfilter with the greatest area and therefore the least restriction is the Pipercross.