enzed_viffer

Mate that is a really nice job.

I've been thinking that some zx10 indicators may have the right curve to fit in...

Yeah, I thought that too, based on a quick squizz at pictures. Let us know if they do fit.

I'm still tempted to go for Vespa indicators, because (a) they come with clear or orange lenses, (B) they're the right size and shape, and © they're only NZ$22 complete with bulbs! :thumbsup:

Trouble is, the WifeAccountantPorcupine sees this mod as "unnecessary fiddling" and will go nuts if I do further mods to "our" bike without permission (like the Fiamm horns, the speedo convertor, the new cush rubbers, the Dragon sticker...)

At the moment, I'm really champing at the bit to go down the road to the marine shop and buy a Blue Sea fuse block to tidy up my farkles...

I can manage without it, but ... but... but it's just SO kewl!

When I rang her to discuss it, her wayward workmate had dragged her (not that she probably resisted too much) down to the nearby designer clothes store to look at expensive clothes. I'm hoping she corrupted her.

Again.

Although the last episode cost several thousand dollars... :rolleyes:

What exactly did you mean by, "push the grill material out through the openings" ?

What sort of mesh is this - stainless, or aluminum?

Oh - great mod, by the way! :thumbsup:

I'd just add that for 3rd and 4th Gen owners you can gain up to 30mm of additional clearance between tyre and underseat canisters if you mod the rear brake caliper locating plate to allow the eccentric to be flipped.

Only the fourth, Muzzah - the third gen can have the eccentric flipped without anything else needing to be done.

Yep it would be fantastic to see an off the shelf set-up made available. Also an off the shelf USD fork kit. Oh, and off the shelf NR replica bodywork.

(yawn) hey looks like it's time to wake up! nice dream...

I reckon it would be pretty easy to make a CF undertray, which would also mean that problems of heat transferance would be minimised.

Did you see the link I posted yesterday to that RC51 underseat zorst? I'd like to see summat like that on a VFR. I'd volunteer to be first, but first I'd have to divorce/kill my wife....

Here we go:

http://www.honda-rc51.de/RC_reworked_2006_17-Web.jpg

Wouldn't hurt to try, anyway. This is one of the things I'd like to try with my vtec 'zorst one day too.

The advantage of putting perforated core in, rather than just leaving all the guts out, is that you will get better exhaust gas flow.

Plus it should sound better (less like a clapped-out muffler).

just got the exhaust in the mail, had a look down the back of the pipe, it seems the internal pipe is wavy i.e. not straight but travels up and down alont the inside of the exhaust, is every vfr exhaust like this or just 5th gen

Most exhausts are like this: my VFR750 was the same, and my VTR1000. It's a fairly standard construction.

You know, if you'r eleft with an empty round can, you could source a replacement core(round perforated tube) from one of the aftermarket companies, and use that inside your stock can, with some steel wool or fiberglass packing. Shouldn't be too hard since you can weld, and you'll have much less invested in that, than in a "real" staintune, with the stealth look of a factory part! :thumbsup:

Eggs Zachary what I was going to suggest, but without the packing. You should be able to get s/steel perforated core from any muffler shop (or at least those that make their own mufflers). I bought some core a couple of years ago when I was trying to quieten my butchered (not by me) zorsts on my VTR1000.

If you were to put perforated tube in the zorst, it would be essentially the same as most aftermarket ones, except the heavy-duty stainless that Sankei use to make these things would make it resonate/vibrate less, so if anything it would sound better.

I really like the concept of these, but I'm not sure I like the looks. For what they cost, I'd want to be ecstatic about them...

vfrcapn, Rob - will the metal undertray make it noisy from the point of view of resonance and gravel and other objects hitting it? I guess if that's the case, you could coat it with say, that bedliner used for trucks etc., or something similar?

We likessss cussstom thingies, we doessss!! :biggrin:

My Fiamm Snail-type horns are supposedly only 110dB. Could be louder.

I reckon that maybe the inoffensive horn thing is because melodiously tootling loud horns at one another is anathema to Japanese?

Anyway, what I'd really like is the fantastic, chromed, low-tone beauty they used to fit to the early/mid 70s CB350. Probably a Japanese copy of a Cadillac horn or somesuch.

They pull nearly 18 amps and would smoke your stock horn switch at some point.

That's a heck of a current; would it be continuous, and mostly when they're first spooling up?

But in any case - if anyone wants better horns, I'd use a relay and some thicker than OEM wire (even with the OEM horn). It makes a huge difference to their efficiency.

On the VFR750, I fitted an extra disk-type horn (Hella, or some cheap Japanese or Italian brand), and wired both horns through a relay to big wires from the battery. It was "OW!! Never, ever do that again, Dad!" loud.

I really MUST take my fairing off and take some photos of my install (carefully doctored to make the lasagne brackets look meticulously crafted...) :idea3:

My bad. I wasn't following the thread clearly.

No, MY bad.

I haven't had lunch, because I left my wallet at home, so I'm a bit snippy today. :biggrin:

Plus I'm enjoying some LOVELY withdrawl symptoms from refusing to take my venlafaxine. :schla15:

But I tell you what - I feel almost ME!

Yay, me!! :idea3:

.... , they're not airhorns. --- they're basically the disk-type horns with a sort of plastic "snail shell" added to them.

To me it was unclear from your post what brand of horn you are talking about.

True, it was. I apologise profusely for my omission.

If I was rude, and not a lovely, polite Kiwi, then I would say something about "Oh - that's right; you're one of those Murkns they make those programs on TV for that repeat the facts in painful detail every few minutes, to make sure your attention span hasn't been exceeded and you've forgotten what we're talking about." :schla15:

But I'm not like that, so I'll just patiently reply thusly:

They are Fiamm (AM80 Super) horns. :biggrin:

I also won't point out that if you scroll up a few posts, you will see I mentioned that they were Fiamms. :idea3:

And because I'm polite, helpful, and have little better to do (apart from work, but it's Friday afternoon, and I'm tahhhrrrrd), I will even RE-post a picture of them for you:

bump- Can I cut down the horn, on the large side of the cone without taking away form the sound? i dont know much about airhorns.

It's unlikely that you'll find anyone here that's cut up a horn and can give you a clear answer.

I was tempted to cut a piece off the side of one of my horns to get it to fit, but luckily I didn't need to. However, while they do have trumpets, they're not airhorns. I doubt that it would have wrecked them or changed the tone, as they're basically the disk-type horns with a sort of plastic "snail shell" added to them.

Just FYI to all out there....this doesn't work on a 5th Gen. I tried and tried and tried and tried and tried..... :huh:

Yeah, I know that feeling. Never mind - my Invisible Fiamm Horn Installation seems to work OK. Not as loud as a Stebel perhaps, but better'n stock by a long chalk.

Whelp, I finally got TheDave to reprogram the micro a few weeks ago. It now flashes rapidly, slowing down to a steady on. It took several iterations of the code before I said, "Yeah, that'll do." Not exactly how I wanted it, but near enuff. I had him add a few extra flashes too, to extend the BlinkyTime. He replaced the micro ("They're pretty cheap, and I dunno if it's getting tired yet..."), and while it was all off, I replaced the horrible bullet connectors on the taillight wiring and the flasher unit with a couple of male/female 2-pin plugs.

Apart from installing a fuse board and louder horn(s), I think I'm about done with LeckTrickleFarkling now, although I know where I can get a cheap motorcycle alarm...

One more tip - don't use a match on the heatshrink. Use a hot air gun, or the shank of the soldering iron above the tip (it's hot, but not as hot as the tip).

I found the method where you wrap thin solder around the splice to be a good one for large gauge wires, as it holds them together better, and you get solder more evenly distributed around and through the join.

Cleanliness is very important: the tip of the soldering iron, and the wires to be joined must be free of grease and/or corrosion or you're wasting your time.

If the wires are hard to join before you solder them, use a crimp first to join the wires, then heat the crimp with the iron before applying solder to it.

I think what is important with the shifter kit is to install it before your gearchanges start getting bad and the gearbox starts getting tired. Even waiting (as I did) until the effects of your SerialTransmissionWreckingWays take effect in the form of missed shifts and false neutrals, the Evo Star is still beneficial.

I often forget I've got the thing installed.

I wrote up a report on my install for Kiwi Biker, and the comment from one of the many Suzuki GSXR riders was, "So... now it shifts like a Suzuki? Why not just buy a Suzuki then?"

I installed some resistors when I had a borrowed PCII to try out on my 2001 VFR. When I returned the PCII, I left the resistors in, as I did not like the lean surging and open loop/closed loop transition I had with the O2 sensors connected. Now the bike doesn't run perfectly below 5000 rpm, but I feel it's definitely better than with the sensors connected.

YMMV....

EDIT: Looking at the PC map that worked best for me, it seems that my bike may now be running a little lean at 2-5% throttle below 5.5K rpm, without the PC to correct for this.

Do you guy's really want someone to be trying to read your sign on your license plate? It seems to me, that could be inviting some nearsighted person to rear end you while they are trying to read your sign that says "back off".

That's apparently why tail-light flashers are currently illegal here: target fixation.

Strangely though, the SafetyNazis are now talking about making headlight and taillight modulators (and fluro clothes) compulsory for motorcyclists.

Anyway, getting back on topic. I like the idea of a brakelight quickly flashing at first, gradually slowing down, and then steady on. Great idea!

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I stole it. Reminds me though - I must uninstall my flasher and get the micro reprogrammed to do that. Should be.... oooh... a 10-minute job.

I just use Vesrah filters, as that seems to be all the dealers here have.

I have a question, I actually have the signal modulator, but am struggling with the wiring since there are two break lights, and twice the wires... any insights as to how to wire this correctly???? 

I am no dummy  :beer: , but I do have a history of making mistakes.  I do have a wiring diagram and know which wire is which but just do not have a clue as to how to connect it. 

Thanks for any advice you give me.

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How I wired mine was to ground it using a spade connector, under the right-rear grab handle bolt. I cut the Green/Yellow going to both brake lights and put female bullet connectors on the side coming from the wiring loom, and male bullet connectors on the other cut end. The input on the modulator had a male bullet connector, which went into one of the female plugs.

The output on the modulator had a "Y" with a female connector on each end. The male connectors on each brakelights' green/yellow wires plugged into these.

One female green/yellow connector is unplugged, but I may yet use both brakelights' wires as inputs, as the modulator consumes a slight amount of power when running, so I'm losing a slight amount by having a one wire input.

Does that make sense?

If, at any stage I take the modulator out (say, it blows up), I can just unplug it, and plug the brakelight wires back together again.

The Safety Nazis don't like people doing sensible things, and frown upon people who take it upon themselves to improve safety without Official Approval Or Sanction.

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Heheh

:beer:

After my email to all staff this morning about parking nicely next to the bike park, one of the other motorcyclists was talking to me. He mentioned that he didn't think it was right "that 50cc scooters don't have to have a Warrant of Fitness, and only just the other day he saw one that had a smashed up rear end and red cellophane for the taillight and that was just wrong and there should be a law change and ..."

"Nathan - I don't agree; you're obviously a SafetyNazi! There are far too many laws, rules and regulations already. Just let it go, Dude!"

I think Nathan rides his bike (2005 SV650) just because it's economical. Talking to him about bikes is just like talking to someone who doesn't understand what motorcycling is all about...

Anyway - I'll get TheDave to draw up the circuit diagram (I suspect he's got it on the computer, as he has a bench-testing program he ran it on before he even put the thing together in 'bread board' mode), and post it here.

If anyone wants to make their own, I'll get the programming for the micro from him, and if anyone wants to make their own but can't program the micro, I'll see about supplying just that on its own, and if anyone's interested in a complete assembled unit, I'll get him to price that. Obviously, it won't be as "cobbled together" as this prototype.

By the way - the thing is still going great, after 6 weeks' use. I haven't had anyway 'target fixate' on it and rear-end me, so I guess it's doing it's job. Hard to say, as I've only been rear-ended once prior to fitting this, and that was on the VTR.

to cool to have a son like that.  my 17 yr old daughter can't even make macaroni and cheese from a box...( i hope she marries rich)

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Would you like to borrow him? He's very, very tiring to live with.

He has Aspergers Syndrome (high functioning autism), has an IQ and cognitive abilities in the upper 1st or 2nd percentile of the population, and is always ON. His older brother is similar (they're both intelligent and obsessive) except gregarious, and when all three boys are together, they all talk very fast, and very LOUD, and at the same time (they reckon they talk in full duplex mode).

Life has been... um... very interesting...

That is COOL! 

I would love a parts list and assembly instructions.

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Me too!!!  Can I puleeeeze mooch off of you and your son's enginuity?    :thumbsup:

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I'll get him to give summat to me tonight.

The only complicated thing is that he used an interface to the PC and an EPROM programmer (or like that there) to program the micro. But maybe if there's a few of these wanting these who can't do the soldering and/or programming, he might be convinced to make them up and send them to you.

If that's the case, you could specify what sort of flashy thing you wanted to happen, like 6 flashes then steadily on, or decaying flash rate (faster then slowing down to steady on, or whatever). I've been thinking of getting him to reprogram mine so it flashes with slightly longer pauses.

The next model (if there is one) will have a MOSFET transistor, so it doesn't require the big-ass heatsink.