Das Bone

The "street sport riding Bible"......the "Holy Grail of sport riding on the street"

:P :thumbsup: B)

Nice job....creative stuff like you've come up with is great. Kudos to ya B)

:thumbsup:

For those that are saying that frame sliders might be worse than without......well sure it's possible. There's absolutely no guarantees with this kind of thing as there are just too many variables in a get off/ drop/crash.

Anything can happen. There was an article in one of the UK mags about this exact argument and there conclusion was that in 80% of the cases, the sliders were felt to have been a benefit in the outcome.

I'm not trying to suggest that anyone get sliders...that's an entirely personal choice.....but let others make their choice based on common sense and real world stories...and of course realizing that regardless of having sliders, you're bike can still get trashed :P

FWIW, in my one case of essentially a drop(having to stop very quickly to avoid hitting a downed rider in front of me on a cambered downhill corner) and a few other cases I know of of actual get-offs that other riders have had, the sliders in all of these particular cases did their respective jobs and definitely minimized damage.

Why would anyone want to use a slider that has to bolted to a bracket? Where is the strength in that? Where is your protection? The bracket is just going to bend as soon as the bike hits the ground. Sounds and looks like the Motivation sliders are purely cosmentic and perhaps only good in a no speed tip over in the driveway.

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I think you're confusing the MV's with some of the "panel protector" units. The MV's use the rear most engine mount bolt (there are two ya know) that's just like the engine bolt that you use for your R&G's...it's just a few inches further to the rear of the bike.

So, I don't know where you think a bracket is involved?

Exactly the same mounting situation as the R&G's.

As I mentioned above, the difference is that the R&G's use a solid rod that goes all the way through the "engine" per say....to which I refered to above as "way sturdy"(that's a compliment BTW) and that the R&G's came with a premodded coolant bottle, that due to their more forward mounting postion just has the leading edge cut out and resealed, i.e. the customer does not have to deal with modding the coolant bottle, but one does have to remove the R&G's to remove the fairing, and finally that they are more expensive which is all factual.

So like I said, it seems like you're confusing or misunderstanding about the MV's which I'm not sure how you could have due to all the posts and info on this thread and others that have been on the same topic.

Personally, I feel that members here should get accurate info so that's why I felt the need to correct what you had said and provide factual info about these units.

Read these post and the others on sliders and I think you'll see that you misinterpreted some stuff somewhere along the way. B)

ROD,

Do you have to take the sliders off to get the fairings off?

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No, with the MV's you do not have to remove the sliders to remove the fairings.

hey Guy I been reading about these Motovation frame sliders? I have 05 ABS and where i suppose to put the rite side Bolt there in some kinda small Box connected there can some please help if they have Done this on ABS thanx

Ravi

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I just had to make a sightly different mounting bracket for it and "rearrange" the postioning a bit :beer:

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Remount of Ca. model EPCV assembly

ROD,  Wow that looks factory!  Great job!

:beer:

After reading this thread I came up with an idea that I wanted to run by everyone...

When browsing ebay for sliders, I noticed these:  ('04-'05 R1 sliders $35 shipped)

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'04-'05 R1 Frame Slider

With these, could use longer bolts and move the sliders out further by machining a spacer (or could even use washers).  This would allow the hole in the bottle to be much smaller.  Depending on how far you space them out, the hole in the fairing could possibly be the smaller diameter as well (realizing that you would have to take the sliders off every time you take the fairing off). 

The only negative that I have thought of so far is:  Since there would be less surface material against the frame changing the leverage ratio, in the event of a crash the bolt might bend easier?  Don't know.  :joystick:

Curious to find out what your thoughts are!

Kevin

PS...Don't want to hijack this thread, if it should be on it's own please move it!!

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Kevin,

Hard to know for sure, but I think your concerns might be valid. The R&G sliders from the UK are somewhat similar to what you describe but their design incorporates a solid rod that runs all the way through the engine mount position from one side to the other, so it's "way" sturdy. They also use the more forward of the engine mount bolt positions and they give you a "modded" coolant bottle that basically just has the top corner removed and resealed.

So, I guess what I'm suggesting is that if you want to avoid the coolant bottle mod and would prefer the smaller hole drilled in the fairing then the "proven" R&G setup might be a safer bet. Yes, you do have to remove the sliders to remove the fairings and yes they do stick out a bit further that the MV's, and they are quite a bit more expensive, but you do get their modded coolant bottle etc.

I guess I'd be leary to try and take something like the sliders you've shown and try and "make" them fit/work for something they weren't designed for.

Like I said, hard to know for sure of course but I think I'd be worried about the

same things you mentioned.

BTW, changing subjects but Scootr has mailed off his chainguard and I've got a number for a painter so I've got to talk to him but................... :thumbsup:

Just finished my slider install, no major problems thanks to the info available on this forum. Thought i would post some pics

Nice job! :thumbsup:

What did you use as a sealant/bond on your coolant bottle?

Thanks for the info, looks like im gonna give it a shot.

i'm curious, when you drill the hole are you removing a portion of the almost horizontal ridge that is at the bottom of the hole. i cant seem to make it out in the pictures?

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Yes you are..........that's why I used a smaller hole saw to try and avoid having to deal with the angles, and then used the drum sander to increase the hole and keep it very clean.

As Teleskier mentioned, drilling can be done from the inside of the fairing too to avoid using painters tape etc..

I used a laser level to mark my pilot hole location so I was marking from the outside of the fairing. Generally fairing holes are drilled from the outside going in especially on bikes with graphics(most 600's and 1000's) because going from the inside out would have a tendency to mess up the sticker type graphics on the outside of the fairing. Not an issue here for our VFR's so I guess you can go at it which ever way makes the most sense for you.

Good luck...just take your time.....you know "measure 3 times...drill once" :P

I did mine with a hand drill......the only difference was that I used a 1 3/4" hole saw(pilot hole drilled first of course) to avoid some of those "wierd" angles :P and then used a 1 3/4" drum sanding bit a gradually increased the hole size to get it where I was happy with the fit.

I used the blue painters tape to completely cover the outside of the fairing in the area to be drilled for safety reasons.

No problem doing it by hand.....just take your time and work carefully B)

Kaldek asked me to put some of the pics form my MV install up so here's a few.

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100_0008.JPG MV Frame slider install

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Finished MV slider install

He also asked for a pic of my coolant bottle so I'll put the original one up here, but I did have to redo the sealant as the stuff I used started to leak after a while <_<

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Coolant bottle mod #2

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Coolant bottle mod for MV frame sliders

The Moko brand (GSG Moto) frame sliders have an optional coolant bottle mod - it's a very small (less than 500ml) tank.  Every time I've read about installation, people seem to have decided not to use the small tank because they are worried about overflow.  I think the only way to be sure is to get your bike really hot (so that the fans are seriously working out) and watch what happens to your existing coolant bottle; i.e. does it fill up or do nothing.

Kaldek

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I've got one that I didn't/haven't used and it holds about 300ml at the top which is the amount that the OEM bottle holds at the "low" level mark.

Did she measure your inseam?  I bet it changed by the time she was done. 

(Hopefully it was longer!)  :huh:

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Oh my yes :joystick:

Thanks Das Bone...

Yes... that's Debbie... daughter of the proprietor of Z Leathers... she has her own dirt bike and she races...  I think her parents must have been having some great sex in order to create such beauty... 

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Thought that was her....when I had my Z's made last year she took most of the measurements .....She's very....... tall :P

Nice job!

Just out of curiosity, is that one of the Z Custom Leather Daughters?

Looks like her(the one that works there)