Voided76

15 hours ago, sfdownhill said:

Voided 76, we took a vote and the outcome is that we’re using this photo of your gleaming pipes - including the crazy bird-carrying-bomb pillow - for all future marketing materials...

 

be my guest,  that bird-carrying-a-bomb is a Prinny to be exact.

They're pretty awesome,  dood.

That's why this is stage II dutchy considering I have parts that are actually going to make a difference lol

Thus begins my dive into foolish horsepower gains chasing with my 2014 VFR.  Currently I have a 8th gen with:

Slip on (s)  various lengths, ect.  
RapidBike Racing with MyTuningBike and BlueBike mods along with the return to stock chip for dyno day.
520 converted drivetrain with a -1T front sprocket and lightened/crossdrilled rear sprocket.

Some fiddle faddle from my olde 6th gen:  Pair removal plates,  Modified airbox with shorter, wider R6 stacks epoxied in.  

Just took delivery and bored-ly hand polished the new 5th/6th/8th header from the boys/wade on the forums.

I very nearly have all the terminal hardware to do the big swap and go to the full header/airbox/autotune/timing boosted machine that CandyRed uses to great envy on my part.

Considering there's a pump literally 100yards from base/home that has E85 I'm going to try to make a go for broke tune with more duty cycle and a bunch more timing to see if it makes a big difference.  

So it should definately rock & roll.  Lemme know if you know of some places in socal that offer (cheap) dyno pulls with little to no diagnostic needs considering the RBR handles pretty much everything anyway.  



 

Do we know the size/pitch of the stock O2 sensor on the header?  I'm gonna use the MyTuningBike wideband with the rapidbike on the new header and I haven't seen the plug around here anywhere 

Hey wait,  that was the white bike I saw in the minivan when I delivered the OEM muffler wasn't it?   lol...

Meh.

it would be a cheaper road to fab a turbokit from a GSXR600 to the VFR.  and it would be a monster for quick spooling afterwards.

Delicious!  Looks like the mock up is gonna work with some fenagling.  might have to get creative with some pig-iron to semi-permanently scoot the brake lines out of the way.  

Have you guys tried a service?  

AKA being able to get the oil filter out with most of the fairings on?

It's a pita with the baby header  😬

If it's at all possible maybe you could push the shifter-side primary a wee lil closer to the block for a bit so you can easily get the filter inbetween the inner-fairing stay and the primary.  it'd make service life a HELLUVA lot easier than stock.

Definately let me know b4 may guys.  Mid-may it's more than likely I will be home (in ohio) on leave for a full month.
I can make arrangements,  but not if I can't plan ahead a little bit.
 

Dropped my deposit.
I think you have my phone #.  Let me know when my bike can help you guys out.

Looking good highside,  it'd be nice to have my wideband for the rapidbike there too.

Let.  Me. Know.  when you plan to do dyno stuff with the 8G.

I have my stock,  3 different lengths of mufflers,  a stock and a modded airbox with candyred's  glued-and-sanded-smooth R6 velocity stacks installed,  clean stock,  and <500 mile pipercross filters,  the RapidBike Racing module,  with the "override back to stock for CARB compliance" module on standby along with a bluetooth kit and my own laptop with the rapid bike tuning software on it.  

we could do all sorts of different stages of tune. 

I'd even kick around the idea of whether or not changing the drivetrain gearing picks up measurable power.  could pick up a stock 520,  and +1 520 front to measure up to 9 rear teeth's worth of drive gear adjustment.

I would adore being involved,  but I need a few months of advance time so I can put in leave with the navy to spend the odd 2-4 days wrenching and dyno pulling if I had my way.  

SFD I have the money up front if need be.  again.  I got money,  AND time,  currently.

I'm in for the 8th.  no questions asked.

Also let wade know I have the modded airbox,  rapid bike race with ignition timing/fuel control,  pipercross air filter,  short med. and long mufflers standing by for tuning once he gets the 8th header out.  I could take some leave maybe if you guys need a bike.  or if you had a VFR in trade for a week or two while fabbing.  ^_^ Cause I daily drive the '14

Am I the only one around who's picked up the RapidBike Racing module for his 8th gen?  

If not:  

How is the stock fuel/timing map,  and has anyone wired their honda specific quick shifter assembly into the RBR?

I ask this because Honda's own implementation can leave a bit to be desired for smooth upshifts during mundane operations.  

I first experienced quick shift tech on my friend's Triumph Daytona 675R.  Let me be the first to say the upshifts were buttery smooth from mechanism to smooth and completely uneventful cut and restoration of engine power reguardless of throttle input resulting in absolutely zero lurch or bucking if used casually around town.
 

Anyone with a new VFR and the quick shifter can attest to while it's really pretty well done,  and that if you're flogging it it's the business,  the jerkiness of non-WOT quick shifts can be a bother around town,  and two up as well.  I can't complain about a sub 200 dollar QS installation on a bike that is plug and play,  but it could definately be smoother around town.  

So has anyone by chance played with the RBR's quick shift utilities with the stock honda assembly,  or am I likely to be breaking ground?

Rogue Option:
Shinko Verge 2x.  ~220 a set.

I'm on my 3rd set of them.  outstanding grip,  feedback,  and wear characteristics for a tire I would rate 1 on 1 with Pilot Power 1's.

Capable enough in Jacksonville NC every-other-day rains.  I take them out on Old Maple Hill Road,  and smash them at 45 degrees near triple digits with zero drama,  I do 650+ mile trips to ohio from NC on them,  flawless on the interstate,  flawless getting smashed through the WV turnpike,  flawless over roadworks and weird grains of chewed up pavement.  I've done several Advanced Rider Course sets at Cherry Point on their prepped airstrip tarmac as well.  towards the end of the program they put the quick and experienced riders with like,  and the beginners with beginners,  and turn them loose on the coned out sort of auto x they have on the airstrip,  because we're the military and we know we're gonna push a little no matter what,  so good pointers for form when pushing are in order.  and they REALLY hung on.  kept the rearend underneath the bike while the instructors were telling me to be cautious because I was spinning the rear up coming out of the sharper bends,  but I didn't get even a wag out of her.  the tread was accordingly a little melty on the shoulders in the rear,  but they held together really well for 15 minute nearly full on romps through the cones digging in 2nd gear,  to the chip on the short straights and mashing brakes before sharp hairpin turn ins ect. 

I know some people have tried to hoon on Ravens and have been bitten.  I know some guys have tried to do more than just track day short stints on their soft compound slicks and gotten bitten,  but if you do what they're designed for,  the verge 2x will really treat you right.  Even in the wallet.  I get about 3-4 out of a rear,  and I pretty much torture them when they're not on a road trip.  7-8 k before the front's shoulders get barren. 

Breakins are no thing either.  ride them with traffic around town and through some turns.  take them out of town and 55mph around some bends,  check to make sure the shine is beaten off of lion's share of the tire,  then enjoy.  ~ 50 mile break-in or less.

What's..... that?

have you made a HP pull yet? haha

Let us not forget the dreamers that wanted to bring us, the VFR1000

I was using frams, for the grippy stuff on the end, but now the pureoil one is only like... 2-3 bucks more, is proven better, and has that grippy coating on it, I'm in.

Well it sounds like you've got their lifetime warrantee. might as well be sponsored by em now. see what they can do for you. LOL

So I have a Rapidbike Quickshift sensor and associated wiring assembly.

how would you personally get the related pushrod, and linkage ends to do a linear-travel frame/sprocket cover mount install of the rapidbike shifter? I'm mostly drawing straws on what I should pick up to attach to the QS sensor than what to tap to facilitate it's use.

I stand corrected!

RBUSA: does that include the RapidBike 2/3 programmers? or are Those, the on off switches?

its on or off.

1000 rpms.

Hilarity ensued.

I was doing 4 degrees of ignition advance that tapered off by about 8500 or so to flat, all the way to 10grand, to several degrees ignition retard by 12.75; the new limiter.

What I changed, was a push to +5 degrees from 3750 to 6500, and the full +4 degrees of timing all the way to 9500 rpms, tapered to a quick zero up at 10500, tapered to -3 degrees ignition @ 12.75. Also added about 2% more fuel @ WOT from 6.5k to 10, for good measure if the ignition advance was going to do what I thought it was going to do.

What ACTUALLY changed was, it now runs like a rabid animal! 1st gear is now airbourne gear. 2nd gear floats the front wheel @ about a foot off the ground (!!) til 10500.

I kept my ears peeled for any rattling, any weird pops, knocks or strange vibes, through 10-20 2nd and 3rd gear pulls. no spark knock detected (!!)

MIND YOU, THIS IS ON A STRICT 93 (98 euro) Diet. I haven't, and will not, subject my bike to 87 on this tune.