badelman

Can't wait for this to happen! Keep up the good work gang!

Ok seriously! After riding and syncing new table to primary twice... My front tire comes off the ground (bobbles.. I can feel it) like on my old 600 Hurricane during full acceleration in 1st gear. And.. I am only using Rapid module suggested settings.. I have not done ANY crazy tweaking. In addition, she's smooth pulling like butter on steroids! That's what I'm talking about!! This device is successful in my mind. I have no other mods (not even chain/sprocket mod) yet although I'm about to get the Pipercross (already ordered from UK).

P.S. Yaman is on point and those guys have the best customer service around..

HS, great write up! Question, it looks like the manual advises some sort of chemical flush. I noticed you're using only the distilled water. Have you had bad luck with chemical flushes or feel it is unnecessary or too harsh?

Thanks!

Ordered!! Except I got the upgrade/newest that uses Samsung 5630 chips at $16.99 for the pair USD. They make an even brighter pair but it is much larger and I'm worried that it may not fit.

I'll let you know!

Blowing LED's sounds awful. Anyone know what specific 7443 bulb works for turn signals? I thought they all did. What 2 types are there? Which one to avoid? Is this vendor full of it or what??

UK Fleabay m8, but several hundred thousand positive recommends (albeit on many differing products).

Cost of postage alone from the US would pretty much negate the purchase of any of your recommended.

Thanks anyway.

I was wrong. $2 shipping to UK!!!

Those are advertised as 25W....surely we need dual wattage (rear light and brake light) or does this increase its wattage for the brake light from a single source?

I believe so.. check out the "glowing" review at this post here

Skids,

Did you order from UK Fleabay or Superbrightleds.com?

I'm looking at:

Superbrightled's // Recommended in this forum but older LED technology // only 220 lumen and got to be better than this in 2015

Putco // Recommended in this forum // But can't find many specs so called them... manufacturer says 85 lumen.. well shoot!

DT Auto Tech // Recommended in this forum // A CREE bulb: newer technology LED // says high power 25 watt and 360 degree

Autolumination // Bad customer service is all over the internet .. Spec wise: have spoken with the owner: says at 12v bright like a 70 watt bulb at only 8-9 watts used // A CREE bulb but no lumen stats

I'm leaning toward the DT Auto Tech's at this point. Post here: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/78803-new-red-led-tail-lights-ya-gotta-be-blind-not-to-see-me-stopping/?hl=%20led%20%20tail%20%20light

The Autolumination's seem to good to be true and are almost $30USD each. Here is the post about that one

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/78803-new-red-led-tail-lights-ya-gotta-be-blind-not-to-see-me-stopping/?hl=%20led%20%20tail%20%20light

I am breaking myself into LED's slowly by going after the brake/tail light first. After that THEN I'll deal with flashers for turn signals. BTW.. I LOVE CREE Technology as I've been using some of their best LED's mapping water caves for years. They are serious about their LED tech.

Anyone know what needs to be done? I don't get how loosening the cowl allows the new bottom LED bulb to fit. Isn't the housing for the rear tail light/turn signals a single unit?

Thanks all!

Sorry - by "cowlectomy" I just meant taking it off. It's not difficult, but is more work than usual for something as simple as swapping bulbs.

The issue is not the bulb inside the lens, it's just maneuvering the bulb and socket assembly back into place. You need more clearance between the housing hole and the seat subframe. By moving the cowl and housing away from the subframe (you probably only need an inch more), you can get the bulb and socket back into the hole.

You need to remove the seat, grab handles, and the hex head screws I mentioned to pull the cowl back a bit. You have to do the same for swapping cans etc.

Video not working .

Switch, I see it but it's really the vid from post #1. I just quoted it as it had the section about the "cowlectomy". The vid just shows how bright the LED bulbs are. I just wanted to get the detail on how to do the cowlectomy to make the bulbs fit.

Here is the direct quote:

"I tried installing the bulbs yesterday, but found that the fact that the LED unit is about 1/4" longer and not rounded like the glass bulb creates problems with the bottom socket. I futzed with it for about 10 minutes and just could not get it in, so I figured I would have to at least loosen the rear cowl to make some room. I ended up doing the cowlectomy this evening and it takes all of 10 minutes in itself. It's really 8 bolts in two hex sizes. No big deal. I got both LEDs installed and to my eye, they are every bit as bright as the OEM bulbs."

Anyone know what needs to be done? I don't get how loosening the cowl allows the new bottom LED bulb to fit. Isn't the housing for the rear tail light/turn signals a single unit?

Thanks all!

So, after seeing a few recommendations for superbrightleds.com, I decided to give them a shot at replacing my sucky 7443 dual-intensity incandescent taillight bulbs.

The OEM replacements aren't hard to find, but lately the Sylvania version has been burning out on me nearly weekly. I find that more annoying than expensive, but still, I have better things to do than pop my seat off and change bulbs.

After the last bulb burned out, I decided to nip this crap in the bud and look at LED options. Superbrightleds.com has several that will fit our 7443 wedge-base socket, but I decided to go with the biggest and baddest, at about $25 each:

These are red 45-LED SMT devices that put light out in pretty much all directions. Remember to use the same color as your lens (trying to be clever and shine a white LED through a red LED means you get washed-out, pink brake lights.)

Superbrightleds shipped fast and I have no complaints whatsoever. I tried installing the bulbs yesterday, but found that the fact that the LED unit is about 1/4" longer and not rounded like the glass bulb creates problems with the bottom socket. I futzed with it for about 10 minutes and just could not get it in, so I figured I would have to at least loosen the rear cowl to make some room.

I ended up doing the cowlectomy this evening and it takes all of 10 minutes in itself. It's really 8 bolts in two hex sizes. No big deal. I got both LEDs installed and to my eye, they are every bit as bright as the OEM bulbs. More importantly, they are dramatically faster in their illumination; so much so that it is undoubtedly safer to some degree.

Overall, I'm happy with the setup and the service I got. If I don't have to jack with these for a few years, I'll be real, real pleased. Here's a quick vid; LED on top, half-spent incandescent on bottom:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgCEh24EGdo

Carlitos, can you explain the "cowlectomy" in a little more detail? I ask as I am wanting to add the LED bulbs as well.. Is it as easy as loosening the rear cowl, shoving it back and then tightening it back down??

Thanks!

Hey Tightwad... This post is very helpful as I was just looking in the rear to install the modulator I bought at 3rd Brake Flasher trying to find where the front and rear brake switches converge! I could not and turned to our forum. So... Thank you.

Also, I currently have mine set up to flash at a very quick rate so I will also back off the speed until I get the LED replacements!

I hope your having a great new year,

Barry

Count me in!

Not yet but I have a copy/paste from some dialogue between myself/Candy and Yaman that may be interesting.. If this is old news than I'll apologize now but if not.....

FYI.. Yaman says the module doesn't collect data at idle.

Candy/nor I saw very little suggested change above 20% throttle open and both had some concerns (in regards to reviewing my initial maps after riding 230-270 miles).. In response to this:

He (Yaman) goes on to say that the module may need more time at the RPM's not gaining the additional mapping data for longer periods (where I/we don't see many suggestions at present on the map under Auto Adaptivity.

Example: I will throw the throttle wide open and blow past 10,000 rpm and then change into say 2nd gear and so on.. Yaman says that the module needs more time than just a second to see the bike at 10k before it suggests a modification.

If I understood him right... I take this to mean that I should hit the tollway (or any long safe road since I'm not on a track as of now) instead of hot dogging through the gears in order to spend more time at specific rpm's for RBM to get more sample time at each snapshot point (RPMs) for the module to make recommendations.

Yaman says "correct" to the above example..

Criticism? Thoughts?

Oh.. BTW.. the Engine Braking feature ROCKS! I have it enabled at 40% and can tell a huge difference already.

What are your minimum rpm tuning settings? I would sett it to 3400 rpms. What are your max allowable % changes? I would set them to 5%. Try not apply the map more than once every 200 miles or so to ensure it has gathered a lot of consistent data first. Please post up the changes that it is making before applying.

Congrats and have fun!

Candy, in speaking to Yaman he says to not do anything until I get the 200 miles in. I will post as soon as I get in the miles. A little difficult in this weather and some time constraints but I can't wait!

Here are the first screen shots before I made any changes and AFTER riding about 230-275 miles:

What do you make of this?? Candy, (anyone else interested) if these are hard to see I can email them just PM me your email address.

One thing that I am looking into is using the Dimsport map switch, to turn off the my tuning bike during not optimal tuning conditions, like when the bike isn't in the optimal 175 degrees F- 195 degrees F range, and or sitting in traffic heat soaking, and or still warming up etc.... This would insure much more consistent data gathering and therefore more precise tuning. This isn't necessary, but I have a habit of going overboard for perfection.

No not you?!! That does sound kinda cool. I'm interested to know if the module has a formula that takes any anomalies into account or if it's all taken into account.

Well the standard O2 sensors are NOT brought online until they are at operating temperature & this is displayed in the RB software. I assume it monitors the MTB in the same manner & thus only brings it into play when its ready !

Yaman, confirmed this today. BTW.. I ended up turning on engine braking and put it at 40% to start. How freakin' cool!

Out of interest the Dimsport site instructions state 200kms (approx 120miles) !

Sure Mohawk.. I chalk this up to just wanting the unit to capture enough data or just being more careful of the unit being able to "see" everything. I did make this same calculation online as well and was all over just going the 124 miles but when Yaman suggested I go a full 200 miles AND when I read that you want to drive in traffic, freeway, twisties.. etc.. to allow the unit to get the full scope of the riders driving habits.. I got it.

What are your minimum rpm tuning settings? I would sett it to 3400 rpms. What are your max allowable % changes? I would set them to 5%. Try not apply the map more than once every 200 miles or so to ensure it has gathered a lot of consistent data first. Please post up the changes that it is making before applying.

Congrats and have fun!

Candy, in speaking to Yaman he says to not do anything until I get the 200 miles in. I will post as soon as I get in the miles. A little difficult in this weather and some time constraints but I can't wait!

Quick update:

I found an older post from Candy and saw how he put it under the right side of the seat.. under the rubber bandy deal. Works for me too..

If you see the red zip ties, I ended up taking out the battery and running the Rapid harness under the sub-frame crossbar and to the other side and up. I also shoved all of the extra accessory plugs (for the Rapid) out to just inside the rear right side cowl (or whatever you call it). The other red zip tie secures the small ground wire going back to the battery. There were no direct positive connections to the battery.

I did end up Oxguarding all connections and using Dielectric grease on the outside of them to seal out the weather where a connector wouldn't fit inside a rubber boot.

Lots of wires , does it run yet?

Yes! I got it to run yesterday after everything was connected. No problems there thank goodness.

Looking good, let us know how it goes on the road :)

I got everything buttoned up and ready this afternoon. My first impression is that you can barely tell when VTEC kicks in at all outside of the VTEC noise change. WOW.. Smooth.. very smooth!! Of course as I understand it the Rapid Bike Race Module wont fully have the bike tuned until I ride the Viffer about 200 miles. Wouldn't you know as soon as I get down the road it starts raining and it is freezing cold. I'll go back out next week as soon as possible to take it the 200 miles and report back some additional info.

All, I just got the race module and installed it. Check out my pic loaded post here: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/79871-rapid-bike-install-for-6th-gen-ooh-goodies/?p=978510

Or here! Super excited to get this going!

Ok.. here's what I got..

Other than this all else is complete.

1. How in the world do I get this module underneath the sub-frame under the backseat??

2. I the original rubber boots don't really cover all of the connector's so I'm a little worried about that. I tucked em' in as best I could but am open to any suggestions here.

3. I don't have any manual that I know of to understand what to do regarding connecting a PC via USB or if I even want to do this before I go riding for 200 miles. I know there's a sheet in there as to how to get the software but the truth is I haven't read it all yet.

***************OK.. Here's a pic by pic of what went down. So far.....

1st 3 connections made at the right side of bike (orientation of sitting on to ride)

2nd set of connection on left side of bike

Cleaned up and Oxguarded 2nd set of connections

Here are my best tips:

1. After connecting the connectors on the right side of the bike run all the wires underneath the back part of the gas tank. There are gas lines and other stuff running that same path.

2. Run the lines for the left side of the bike connectors behind the frame and behind the overflow coolant bottle on the left side of the bottle. They'll come out at the bottom.

3. Secure wires together with other cable already on the bike with zip ties.
4. After the second set of connectors are connected for sensor 1 & 2 the harness will continue to run to the rear of the bike out from underneath the left side of the back of the gas tank. It will continue on from there and this is where you connect the negative to the battery and connect the rest of the module to the end of the cable and secure the accessory cable plugs.

5. There will be a small baggie of connector plugs those will go in the accessory plugs that are left over should you not use them.

Other thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks all!

SOoo excited. Finally got the Rapid Bike Race module and harness. I'm putting it in today and will report back with some pics during progress. This post will be in extreme lay terms so those more technical and guru like may want to move on to something more stimulating..

Just arrived!

Serious stuff.. cant wait to see what's inside!

If there's any latest tips and tricks or hints for installation or first ride please let me know. I've already read through the 20 plus pages on the group buy and some of Yaman/Candy stuff but it's been awhile. So I'm off.