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Baileyrock

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Posts posted by Baileyrock

  1. I am curious as to what a dyno tuning session for the PC III costs.

    I believe it is around $250-$300 for a full customized mapping on a dyno. The mapping was basically free for me since I won a raffle drawing to be redeemed at Las Vegas DynoTech and I used it for the custom mapping since I needed it.

    Buy a PCV instead of the PCIII and add Auto-Tune for less than $250 and you'll never need a custom maps no matter how many mods you make!

  2. Sorry I am new here on this Forum. since today

    And the Search was not successful I tried but there where no results.

    Maybe I do something wrong.

    And excuse me for my English

    Welcome to VFRD! :cheerleader:

    Just Google search and it will most likely come up with VFRD mod jobs! :fing02:

    BR

  3. :fing02: Actually I switched back to Mobil 1 15w-50 in the track bike and VFR, the Benz is still on the Rotella T 5w-40. :biggrin:

    Mercy Bailey... do you know what the viscosity of Mobil 1 15 50 is at 104ºF start up and 212ºF operating temps???

    No Larry, I don't! :491:

  4. I'm a long time Mobil 1 advocate and it has always tested at or new the top of every category, but I recently made the switch to

    Shell Rotella T Synthetic based on it's test results(always right up there with MB 1) and lower cost the MB 1 also one of the few "C" rated oils out there which seem to be good for our bikes.

    My MB Diesel, track bike and VFR all have Rotella T Synthetic in them! :thumbsup:

    I also like the info on oil found here, they also have a great oil filter cross reference listed to and I now use only WalMart's SuperTech ST 7317 filters as they have superior filtering then most at the cheapest price(made by Champion)

    http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

    Dittoes on the Rotella T and Wally World filter, BR. Good stuff for reasonable money!

    :fing02: Actually I switched back to Mobil 1 15w-50 in the track bike and VFR, the Benz is still on the Rotella T 5w-40. :biggrin:

  5. That's pretty cool! :fing02:

    I actually did a mod to my track bike key where I cut off the top of the key and soldered it back on at 90 deg's so it sat parallel to the ground just a air above the ign. switch. This way in a crash it didn't get bent or broke off. :blush:

  6. I was thinking of checking the valves, but it would be on this engine!

    .

    I'm callin BS on that BR :laughing6-hehe: :laughing6-hehe: :laughing6-hehe:

    Unless that motor has over 100k on it :biggrin:

    It's HS's 5th gen motor w/120k + miles, but I think he already checked them at some point! :blush:

    post-301-0-67102600-1291595463_thumb.jpg

  7. I did just do the following to my 02 within the last few months so I don't have any big list right now.

    - Starter Valve sync

    - T-stat

    - antifreeze

    - K&N clean

    - plugs (IR)

    - fork seals

    - fork oil

    I was thinking of checking the valves, but it would be on this engine!

    post-301-0-49143000-1291579929_thumb.jpg

    :biggrin:

    I did install some exhaust spuds to quite down my beast, but now I think I hear the tick, tick of another CTT! :blush:

    Of course I got 50k from the second set so far.

  8. Boy I forgot about this thread and how good it was, thanks for reviving it guys! :fing02:

    Funny I pinned this thread just a few months before breaking both my legs in a track crash! :blush:

    This crash actually had little effect on my confidence or ability to ride again, it was only wondering if I ever would again and then concerns about re-injuring my legs once I did start to ride again. :huh:

    I've been down several times at the track all lowsides and up in the mph's, but always walked away. The highside was very different as is street riding.

    Last weekends Deer and cartwheeling bike incident shook me a little more for some reason, I've run a rapid Pace for over 100,000 miles and have never given too much thought to deer before. Now I'm imagining them behind every bush. :blink:

    Haven't ridden since, but may head out tomorrow and will just have to see where my mind is.

    BR

  9. On my 03 VFR (all based on financial feasibility as i'm in the process of purchasing a house) :

    - 520 conversion (really no real reason other than a bit of weight savings and I like the idea)

    - +2 rear sprocket

    I strongly suggest you buy the highest quailty 520 sprocket & chain kit as possible because the weight of the VFR will wear these parts out at a much more rapid pace. I bought a 520 DID/sprocket kit for my Vtec Track Pig from Spocket Center(excellent company) as track miles build at a fraction of the rate as street miles.

    I went 1dn/2-up.

    :cool:

    BR

  10. already have a WP 3-way with 180 (1028) spring I could use with some .95 fork springs...

    if I have the correct spring fitted to the shock won't I have to get it valved to match the new spring?

    218lbs. w/o gear

    I'm not familiar with WP, but Ohlins says that their shock adjustments can cover the entire range of possible springs you can install.

    IMO as long as your Not Maxed out on either side of adjustments and have the desired compliance than revalving isn't necessary.

    No if you were racing the bike you would rather have the valving in the middle of it's range for said shock spring, but most street riders set and forget. :blush:

  11. Here is my simple seal driver!

    post-301-068831900 1288057514_thumb.jpg

    I think it's just a piece of 2"(OD) exhaust pipe, it works like a charm as I've used it for years w/o issue! :biggrin:

    It helps that you have the motion down pat.

    :goofy:

    Did you take the cartridge apart and pump the oil out of it?

    (master stroker icon)

    I'm not usually that ruff! :491:

    No, just pumped some cleaner thru them. Maybe next time! :blush:

  12. I tried to do it that way but I like my engine scortching hot when I change the oil for quick and maximum oil drainage, so no dice for me. Great write up and pics though, totally useable meathod for those who don't change it hot.

    Yeah, I usually prefer a warm engine oil change myself. I guess gloves could be used? :blush:

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