Baileyrock

Excellent Feedback and info Roy, THANKS!

Pinning topic.

BR

On my 02 street Vtec I had Aftershocks re-valve & re-spring my stock forks and have run them Hard for over 50k miles with very good results! Actually they didn't feel that good until I balanced the rear Ohlins with the correct spring, then entire bike was transformed!

Only downside is No adjust-ability

On my 04 Vtec Track bike I installed a full F4i front end w/calipers and radial M/C, new shim stack for stock Rebound valve and changed to large port Showa Compression valves w/new shim stack. Felt Great and fully adjustable.

W/ F4i forks you can use stock VFR wheel/Rotors or F4 wheel & stock rotors or F4i wheel and rotors. I used a stock 06 Vtec fender on teh F4i forks, only 4 of the 6 mounts bolts work, but that's plenty.

BR

Any member can start a survey/poll, just check "How to".

Smoking a Fat one has always helped me relax!

Just take your time when re-entering after a crash. Track days, MSF courses and dirt biking can all help.

BR

I Kid about the Fat one, sober is the only way to ride IMO.

Glad to see this back again!

The 2012 has tranction control so 1st and 2nd gear are not restricted any more. And fueling is improved by Honda, so the need for a PC-v or Z bomb is gone, as long you use the OEM exhaust.

It will be interesting to see just what they did/do with it and if the big 5k flat spot(Zen) is gone. So now 1st and 2nd are restricted with Traction Control instead!

2thdr, baileyrock: Thanks for the enlightenment. I was naive about Honda quality. And I could always find a use for the money saved.

If our paths cross (Tmac, SumSum) I'd be happy to buy you both a beer (coffee/whiskey/milk whatever) with the $ I'll save next year. I'm not famous for my memory so if I forget (not likely) feel free to remind me.

Thanks, but we VFRD and it's members exist to help each other out.

One) At the risk of repetition, I was taught that viscosity is the resistance to flow. Higher numbers: more resistance to flow. That made it easier for me to understand the basics.

Two) What is the logic against using OEM oil filters and Honda motorcycle oil? Seems like a no-brainer.

Three) I have a new consideration afterpurchasing Lobsters Y2K. Full sync has been used; he suggested that that means I should continue to use same. Any opinions on that?

On the subject of using Honda branded oil & filters! It's a Waste of money for an inferior product!

If you read any oil or filter test you will find the Honda branded products fair no better than Avg and usually towards the lower end vs current quality oils like Mobil 1, Rotella & Amzoil on the Syn end and still many dino oils perform better than Honda brand oil!

Many oil filters use superior filtration medium than Honda branded filters and even WalMarts line of filters is rated a much higher quality than Honda filters.

But hey, many people pay the much higher prices for the inferior but Honda branded product!

BTW people who change syn oil every 3k miles are just plain crazy if you ask me. Hell HONDA suggests you change their Crappy dino oil every 8k miles and unless every mile is spent on the race track why would someone think that superior quality Syn oil won't last as long as Honda recommended dino oil! Other than the Oil Industries excellent ad campaign telling us to change out oil every 3k!

The ONLY way to know if your oil is good or bad is to have it analyzed by a lab. Mobil 1 or other quality syn might be good for 8, 10, 12 , 15k miles but you'll never know w/o a lab test.

Good stuff! I bet you would be surprised at just how many riders have no known clue what C/S is and how it affects us as riders. I should start a Poll!

snip

C/S only starts to take effect after a minimum speed/mph is achieved which is fairly low (10-20 mph?), but it is after whatever that speed is where the Gyro effect of the spinning front wheel comes into effect that C/S can take place .

Below that speed you would Counter Weight, not Counter Steer like in parking lot maneuvers.

IMO once you learn to look through a turn and apply C/S both your speed and confidence levels on a bike will doubled!

Thanks Monk, lots of great stuff in here!

BR

CS begins the second you start moving, it's the only possible method of keeping the bike from falling over. it is the very first handlebar input you make the second your wheels start rotating. Try and pull out of your driveway without CS, can't be done, it's the only way to keep your balance as you leave the driveway and turn on to the street, and the only way to straighten up once you're on the street.

Try and ride at a walking pace or slower, only CS and lots of it will keep you upright. The video is simply talking about a more forceful CS input for certain occasions, something we've all used to swerve around potholes in town.

No amount of weight shifting alone is going to get the bike to turn in any meaningful time frame, at any speed, without being accompanied by CS.

At speed the gyro effect does enhance the CS effect in all the right ways, with the gyro effect forcing the bike over and dampening out the process, but at low speeds it's also needed constantly to simply keep the wheels under the bike

I'm sorry, but I think you are either using the wrong terminology or are very confused on the subject of Counter Steering in general!

"CS begins the second you start moving" There is No C/S ever if your moving in a straight line and no imput is applied to the bars. C/S is the act of turning.

At low speeds(before the front wheel is rotating fast enough to act like a gyro (it's actually the gyro effect of the front wheel at speed that causes the C/S effect if I'm not mistaken)) like in parking lots if you want to turn right you turn the bars to the right to go right. Try that after whatever speed C/S's gyro effect starts and you'll go Left with the same input(turning the bars to the right)!

So if I understand you correctly, if you want to turn right out of your driveway on your bicycle or motorcycle "you would turn the bars to the left?"

.

BR

Already working on it during my 40 mile commute today....I push right, and I go right! Been leaning waaaay too much.

Cool, really for almost all but extremely fast street riding you can just sit straight upright and C/S on most rides. I can ride fairly quick doing this myself, I only lean when I'm really starting to push it.

BR

I've been practicing this, and it's a challenge to stay focused on the concept with so much going on around you. It's definitely not natural. Guess it will just take time to become a 'way of thinking'. I've conquered enough bad habits, so this good one should be doable.

It's Very simple! Think PUSH Right, Go right. PUSH Left, Go Left! That's it!

PUSH RIGHT....GO RIGHT.....PUSH LEFT....GO LEFT

Let us know how that works for you!

I've been practicing this, and it's a challenge to stay focused on the concept with so much going on around you. It's definitely not natural. Guess it will just take time to become a 'way of thinking'. I've conquered enough bad habits, so this good one should be doable.

It's Very simple! Think PUSH Right, Go right. PUSH Left, Go Left! That's it!

Back in the 80's they found in motorcycle crash investigations that over 75-80% of M/C riders "Turned Into the Object they were trying to avoid", in other words they did NOT Counter Steer and crashed!

CS is probably one of if not the single most important thing to learn as a rider and Has to be second nature to you as there's No time to think about what to do in an emergency for the most part.

These riders turned the bars away from the object they were trying to avoid(car) which resulted in turning right into that object!

There is No quicker way to get a m/c to change direction than C/S.

C/S only starts to take effect after a minimum speed/mph is achieved which is fairly low (10-20 mph?), but it is after whatever that speed is where the Gyro effect of the spinning front wheel comes into effect that C/S can take place .

Below that speed you would Counter Weight, not Counter Steer like in parking lot maneuvers.

IMO once you learn to look through a turn and apply C/S both your speed and confidence levels on a bike will doubled!

Thanks Monk, lots of great stuff in here!

BR

Good price on those, mind me asking where you picked them up from?

Think it was "Dennis Kirk" he was shopping at!

Need some help. I need know how to convert VFR800 2001 downpipes to work with my VFR800 2003 bike.

My headers are falling apart and I found some on ebay for $250 brand new. Only problem is they are for the 1st gen.

Thanks

Need some more info here!!!

I would Not bother to install 01 headers on a Vtec as the 00/01 headers are the same small tube headers w/a Cat where as the vtec hearders are at least SS which shouldn't be falling apart!!! They should last longer than anyother model header?

Maybe the PO installed different headers????

If you don't plan to install Catless headers then stick to any year Vtec headers to keep the SS pipes.

OK, I updated a few of the tire models and zeroed out the poll numbers to get a fresh start in 2011.

PM me or post here about tires that you think should be added or deleted from the poll.

I also deleted most post older than early 2009 to keep the thread more current!

BR

PS let me know of any tire you wish added to the poll.

It might be splitting hairs, but the PP/PR2 (or 3) combo FTW...maybe put it as its own line on the poll? Otherwise if I vote for both separately it skews the results.

Brian

For some reason I can't figure out how to add anything else! I can only edit what's already there!

not sure if this a deal or not

Michelin Rear Pilot Road 2 180/55ZR-17

Michelin Front Pilot Power 2CT 120/70ZR-17

$248.98 Dennis Kirk

That's a pretty good price! I would switch the front from the PP 2ct to the standard PP and save more w/o losing any grip for the street and the PP/PR2 set will wear out at about the same rate!

I believed the Pilot Road 2 was the best tire I have ever used. Now, I can say the Pilot Road 3 is the best tire I have used (sport-touring wise). Awesome in the rain, glue in the dry, and glue around the twisties (NC not FL...LOL). PR3 two thumbs up, way up!

One of my long time riding buddies is running the PR3 on his K1300 and he doesn't like them as much as the 2 when pushing them.

BR, do you gather its a front tire thing or the rear?

He was talking about the feel of the rear when pitching it hard into a turn.

BR, any chance your friend was/is running the BMW version of the PR3 rear? I'm not sure Michelin offers this for the PR3, but they did offer a PR2 with stiffer sidewall that was really meant for heavier bikes, but in some cases marketed as a BMW-specific tire.

Will ask at some point!

You can get many off eBay, but there is a graphic shop of which I can't remember the name of that will make anything of any color, hopefully another member will post up.

BR

OK, I updated a few of the tire models and zeroed out the poll numbers to get a fresh start in 2011.

PM me or post here about tires that you think should be added or deleted from the poll.

I also deleted most post older than early 2009 to keep the thread more current!

BR

PS let me know of any tire you wish added to the poll.

I've got an '07 with only about 3700 miles on it. No problems yet but I'm about to start looking at these areas of concern. Anybody with and '07 or newer having any problems?? Or have they been sorted by the factory???

Actually 06-up had a factory update, but as far as I can tell there are still issues for these later models per member complaints.

Well folks, I finally did it...I actually changed the oil myself, as in didn't pay someone. I hadn't up to now because of laziness, figuring it was easier just to bring it in. Using the 'BR method 355' it was as easy as pie. The secret recipe is the oil filter socket and a 7" long, 1/2" drive extension. Following BR's instructions, I was done, putting the tools away in 30 minutes. Turns out it is WAY less hassle than bringing the bike into the dealer and waiting around.

So I'm living proof that VFRD works. I used the recommended Shell Rotella T6 synthetic, a Honda filter and a new crush washer. The oil was a little pricey @ 37$ Cdn for a jug of the stuff at Wally World.

Now to clean and lube the chain for umpteenth time...

Brian

That's cool, glad it worked for you!

I believed the Pilot Road 2 was the best tire I have ever used. Now, I can say the Pilot Road 3 is the best tire I have used (sport-touring wise). Awesome in the rain, glue in the dry, and glue around the twisties (NC not FL...LOL). PR3 two thumbs up, way up!

One of my long time riding buddies is running the PR3 on his K1300 and he doesn't like them as much as the 2 when pushing them.

BR, do you gather its a front tire thing or the rear?

He was talking about the feel of the rear when pitching it hard into a turn.

I believed the Pilot Road 2 was the best tire I have ever used. Now, I can say the Pilot Road 3 is the best tire I have used (sport-touring wise). Awesome in the rain, glue in the dry, and glue around the twisties (NC not FL...LOL). PR3 two thumbs up, way up!

One of my long time riding buddies is running the PR3 on his K1300 and he doesn't like them as much as the 2 when pushing them.