Baileyrock

Very nice! Where to buy the clamps for the handle bars? Would the 919 bar fit? This is my next mod, half the price of Heli bars!!

Wondering the same, found and ordered a set of handlebar risers off ebay for $30 yesterday to at least get started.

BR

Thinking of trying a set of Street Fighter bars on the vtec.

BR

Also, for anyone else considering this mod, ST1100 cables are about 4" longer than the 5th gen/6th gen cables and have the same free length, which makes them a good way to get that taller bar set up properly.

I just ordered Renthal 756 (high bars) bars to put on my 5th Gen. What year ST1100 and what cables will cross fit?

What do the 756 bars look like?

Wow, I thought there was a time limit on that recall?

Glad you got it done, even more so, this late in the game.

Hope theres still no time limit as I'm trying to get it done on my 02 as we speak.

But will the rotors still fit the calipers once you have your adaptor? That would be my first concern. They are 320mm. Think the VFRs are 296mm.

He doesn't need to use VFR rotors, just be able to mount the Pulse Ring on whatever rotors he uses!

I don't think the calipers play a role in the ABS system, but not sure on that.

I think that starting with a ABS bike is the biggest key, everything else should be very doable!

BR

Should be doable.

Keep us posted w/pics!!!

I weight approx 100kg (220lbs).

What spring-rates would you recommend? Having read this thread I'm leaning towards either .95kg/mm or 1.0kg/mm front, and 19.3kg/mm or 20.3kg/mm rear? The HO605 shock comes from ohlins with a standard 17.3kg/mm spring; I guess this is totally inadequate (or am I wrong)?

I would do a 20/21kg rear on the front how about .975kg (one .95 & one 1.0) . Ohlins should install whatever spring you want at no extra charge.

BR

what about a Diablo rear?

There are at least 5 different Diablo models, which are you talking about? Std., Strada, Corsa,, Angle, etc.

I loved the standard Diablo, but it just wore out way to fast.

I rode HS 1200 at the Tmac for a little while and it is a beast!!! Love that engine, very addicting power.

BR

My guess is that Most slips are "Crap on the road surface" issues vs the tire grip problem when running any decent tire.

Well, after removing the PR2s last week

You said you thought they were the original Pilot Roads, So you you did have PR's or PR2's on your bike?

HUGE difference between PR's and PR2's!!!

BR

Bookmarked!

^This. Good to know a 5 year old thread is still kicking!

Actually it's been updated several times over the years to be sure were still using the Best place that give us the best prices and service.

BR

Hard to believe, but I just had my first dealing with Keith at Mason Honda and it was a good one.

At 92,000 miles I'm needing my second CCT on my 02 so I looked at their web site. The part listed for $97.47 and they showed an on-line discount of $77.98 so I gave Keith a call and told him i was with VFRD and he said how about $61.65, bingo send it.

$7 shipping and it should go out tomorrow.

Need parts, call Keith!

BR

Will do. I'm pretty sure they were PRs, build date in 2008. They provided what could only be described as absolutly no feedback on what the front end was doing. I am hoping for rthe normal fabulous feedback that Dunlops usually give. I loved the D205 and D220s. They never moved a mm, rain or dry.

Yeah, the original Pilot Road was Crap IMO if you push your bike if the slightest!!! The most veg tire I ever ran. I never likes any Dunlop until the Q2 and they just don't last at all. You should slap on a set of PP's one day to see how good your bike and tires can feel.

BR

I recently spooned on the Dunlop Roadsmart II set and plan to test them this weekend on a full day mountain ride. I promise to report back. I never liked the Michelins PRs, but in all fairness, there weren't "round" anymore. At $272 to my door, I couldn't go wrong.

Let us know how the Smart II's work for you.

BTW I hate PR's also or are you talking about PR2's?

Congrats, that's a good deal!

I'll let you know, I picked up a crashed vfr 94 that had Pilot Road 3's on it but the front was destroyed as was about everything else except rear wheel and engine., so I put both on my 4th gen and ordered a PR3 front ($143). Till now I've run PP's front and rear,but the rears normally toast @ 15-1800 mi and the front toast @ 2500-3000, but they stick great. I ride nothing but twisty back roads and tickle my toes on the majority of turns. Would love to get 3000+ out of the PR3's

With that type of riding I would suggest a PR2 rear w/PP front, they will wear out as a set. You'll find the steering much slower with any PR2 or 3 f/r vs PP's, that is why I still run the PP front w/PR2 rear.

My buddy who rides a lot like me says he likes the PR2 rear better than the PR3 when pushed hard in the Dry, but the 3 is better in wet.

I avg 2-2200 miles from a set of PP's and avg 3-3.5k miles from the PP/PR2 combo with no noticable grip difference.

BR

I've run a Sargent for around 75,000 miles so far and have had to had the foam replaced twice so far as it breaks down somewhere in the 25-35k miles area.

BR

Renevator my thoughts on your last post.

I'm of the opinion good suspension isn't just for track days or fast riders (corner monkeys) but for everyone, yes in this day & age money is tight & allot of riders use there bikes only as a toy & those that are married have to justify the outlay just to have a bike in the garage. But frankly that is the wrong attitude, your far better off buying a cheaper bike so you have the funds to have the suspension modified to suit YOU. In the wash up your going to be far safer, your confidence/skills will grow without you even knowing & in the end when the need arises you will be a faster rider with a higher margin of safety than if you own a bike with much more hp that cost allot more money.

Agreed!!!!!!!!!!

I will hopefully be taking my bike to Traxxion Dynamic which happens to be just 5 miles from house.

Sounds great, plz let us know and be sure to ask them what spring rates they install. Hopefully TD in house won't just set-up the bike off some faulty VFR spring rate calculator like 90% of the other suspension shops seem to use!

BR

history: my 04 had 1.0 and 18.34kg 3-way . I asked Phil work the forks for aggresive street with 220lbs. pilot.

had to pre-load the rear way too much for correct rider sag which of course topped out the shock and the front worked better the harder I rode I could really feel the small expansion joint on the highway.

the 08 has carbon fiber exhaust (hard bags for trips only) and I'm 210lbs. w/o gear

I kept the 3-way off the 04 that I intend to pair with a 20.3-21.4 spring

I ordered 1.0 springs again thinking I would have the forks shimed again.

will thinner fork oil and valve re-work take care of the harsh intial feel?

what about valves, are they really needed?

I think most of the harshness you felt with your old bike was from the TOO Stiff fork springs compared to the too Soft rear spring for your weight.

Like this thread I started, I was very disapointed in my bike after have the forks revalved/resprung and installing a Ohlins on the rear but only with a stock 850 lb spring on it. It felt good when I slammed on the brakes because of less fork dive, but felt crappy the rest of the time until I installed the stiffer 19kg spring.

BTW I now run a 20kg rear spring w/.95kg fork springs and it feels great.

I suggest a 21kg rear if you plan to stay with the 1.0 fronts.

BR

Not really, how does the bike feel to you now???

.95's might have been enough, the 1.0 is Not that different, but I do think the the 1028 rear is soft for your weight and the 1.0 is too much for the 1028 rear.

I run .95's w/a 20kg(1122lb) rear and weight 190lbs.

Your set-up is very close, but maybe a little harsh on teh front and over working the rear slightly.

BR

Beck, The Q2 is a very good tire, probably the best Dunlop has to offer(other than track tires).

It handles very good, has excellent grip and didn't have the normal cupping issues most of their other tires had.

I tried a set and enjoyed them, but they don't exceed the performance in any noticeable way of my current PP/PR2 combo and don't last near as long so I won't buy another set until they update them again.

A very good tire though.

The stock triangle plates rotated with the arrows up will lower the rear around 1 1/2" so you should be fine, I would however also drop the front end at least 1" by sliding the fork tubes up in the triples. This keeps the bikes rake and handling closer to desired and also lowers the bike.

You will need a shortened side stand though.

BR

BTW, moved this thread to Suspension as it applies to all gens!

BR