Baileyrock

After a bit of a hassle, with a 929 shock simply not having room without modifying both sides of the LBS bracket, I got a F4/i shock modded by JamieD and got that installed.

Only mods required were a bit of trimming of the wire tray around the battery to clear the remote-reservoir hose.

The reservoir is currently zip-tied to the frame rail just below the battery.

Great! and congrats!

BTW is the spacer on the top or bottom of the shock?

BR

Lots here to digest. I am 230 in gear and with four kids I do not have much riding time other than a fairly short commute. I want to do a simple, cheap upgrade(less than $150). It appears my best options are the Blackbird or the VFR 1200 swap. At my weight the headlight also hits the cars ahead of me pretty high at night. My question is what is best for my needs and should I grab a shim(of what size) off of eBay too? Thanks

Budget would be the Blackbird shock(bolt-in) and .95 for springs.

BR

Yes it does!

But if I was as Smooth as you I wouldn't need it!

BR

Not wanting to start a new topic, I am going to post my setup questions on this old but very useful thread.

What I gathered from this thread is that the 6th Gen VFR800A stock spring rates are 0 .74 kg/cm front and 15.5 kg/cm rear. These are way too soft for the average American rider, even in solo situations. But hey, Honda is a Japanese manufacturer and it probably designed the suspension for petite, sub-150 lbs Asian guys. And I happened to be the type Honda designed the suspensions for. So I set my suspensions to the "standard settings" described in the manual, i.e. 2 lines showing for the front preload, 7 clicks from softest for the rear preload, 1.25 turns from stiffest for rear rebound, and measured my free and race sag.

Rider: 53.5 kg (118 lbs) bare

Front sag: 20mm free, 28mm static (Ohlins recommendation: 20-30mm free, 30-40mm static)

Rear sag: 25mm free, 41mm static (Ohlins recommendation: 5-15mm free, 25-35mm static)

I am using the Ohlins owner's manual as my reference. Am I correct that the springs are probably going to be alright for me, and that the front could use less preload (to increase the sag) while the rear could use more (to reduce the sag)?

Yes you are correct on all accounts!

The stock springs should work for you and the changes you suggest should take you in the right direction.

BR

PS welcome to VFRD!

Hi all,

the part number aren't the same; and definitely doesn't look the same, but still seem it might fit

I'm sure they will bolt up, BUT I would NOT run two different design calipers on the same front end as they No Doubt will produce different pad pressure from side to side which is NOT a positive thing!

Hey Zollie and welcome to VFRD!

Check the parts microfish on Ron Ayers.com to parts numbers. I know they made changes from the 5th gen (98-01) to the 6th gen (02-09) braking system, but I'm not sure if it involved changes to the Calipers.

Good luck with the repairs and sorry for the banger!

BR

had the option to buy a used f4i penski for my vfr a few months back, was told it wouldnt fit, but i dono, i recon it would have the ride height adjustment to extend it to fit

If it had a hose mounted Remote Reservoir it would work no problem, if it was the Fixed type reservoir type it would not.

BR

Interested on the f4i shock swap on my 6th gen. Except the addition of spacer, is it a straight swap (planning of using the f4 spring)? Any suggestions on what type or kind of spacer to use?

Unless you weigh less than 130lbs do NOT run the F4i spring, it's like a 14kg which is softer then the already soft 15.3kg stock VFR spring.

BR

100mm is far too much fluid. For the VFR800's I suggest 130mm, but never go beyond 120mm. Any more fluid and your internal air pressure ramps to the moon before full travel is reached. Each bike/model/generation is different and this information applies to VFR800's only (both Ø41mm and Ø43mm forks).

My numbers are for example only in reference to measuring levels on the bike, NOT spec level for anything! It only means actual is a 10mm less then measured on bike, nothing else.

Sorry if anyone thought otherwise!

BR

Thanks for the post and help guys related to installing a 929 shock on a Vtec!!!

I agree completely with zROYz's thought's about heat here:

"The reservoir holds the nitrogen charge but the other side of bladder is oil, the heat from headers will heat the entire shock body is a big way & heat causes increased pressure in the nitrogen charge, deterioration to the rubber bladder which are already the weak point in that shock design. Add major heat to oil which already heats up from shock operation & the more heat the faster the shock oil also deteriorates. There is about zero air flow in that area so cooling effect would be again about zero, maybe after a hour or so riding reach down & feel how hot the shock body is & I bet you can't even touch for any length of time due to the heat.

I'm in noway saying the shock isn't going to be an improvement over the standard shock but that type of install must surely drop shock service interval period & have an effect on shock performance if you use say the shocks peak performance in normal operation conditions to overheated conditions as a gauge. It is all good the average punter feeling the shock is better because it will be over the standard but for the average punter to feel the decline in shock performance is asking allot & most wouldn't feel it on the VFR. Any after market shock built for the VFR has a remote compression reservoir for a reason, there R&D looking at fitments & operation is why they have that design. There is really zero R&D bolting in place any shock other than what was designed for the VFR so you have to weigh up the advantages & disadvantages. The room is already tight but if I was going to use say the 929 shock I would make the effort to mount reservoir away from headers & would still wrap the rear headers in heat tape."

I personally would NOT want to run a shock on my bike basically having it cooking itself. The whole idea of the remote reservoir is to get the charge and oil away from heat, not to put it into the oven.

Now for track days it might not be as bad as your only riding for 15-20 mins. at a time, but like zROYz stated this orientation of the reservoir will only cause issues(shock fade) that you are trying to avoid IMO!

Just because you can fit the thing in there doesn't mean it's a good application or use. IMO it would be a much better install if the reservoir was facing rearward away from the head/exhaust like it was designed to do on a CBR.

BR

I think this method is the way most shops do it , cause its much quicker. However I dont like breakign seal contacts unless actually replacing seals, and oil heiught is a critical set up, that should be measured accurately(with the forks off and completely vertical). Half a cap of oil, can mean the difference between a fork that works well and one that doesnt.

So, I personally do not use this method, for risk of seal leak developement, and accurate oil height measurement.

This is NOT the best method for fork oil change as complete disassembly would provide complete cleaning, BUT it's great for a quick refresh of anything currently in the forks and it can be performed 30min before a ride!

On oil level:

I've already done all the calculations to achieve correct oil levels while forks are still on the bike! It amounts to adding 10mm from measured oil level height to give true level. ie: measure 100mm level on bike, actual is 110mm.

BR

I upgraded my suspension with Jamie Daugherty (occasionally postes on VFRD). I have to give him props.... The forks are a great improvement over stock, and he also provided me with a revalved/sprung 929 rear shock. Although I struggled with the installation ('07 non-ABS), it did fit....barely but with no modifications necessary for just installation (access to adjusters-maybe). I did, however have to remove the adapter he provided, and reinstall it after the shock was in place.

The bike turns much better, with less dive under braking and less squat under acceleration than before -- and that's without touching any adjustments, just installing it as he sent it. I'll check the sag and maybe adjust a little rebound dampening in the shock, but I expect the adjustments to be minor. He did all this from the information that I provided...weight, ridiing condition/level, etc.

We would like ALL the info on this install as you are the first to get a 929 shock to fit a Vtec w/o more mods.

Please tell us exactly what and how you did it, where was the spacer installed? Top or bottom, what way was the reservoir facing? front or rear, is it hitting the head or tray? etc., etc.

There are several members trying to get their 929 shock to fit w/o any luck.

Thanks

BR

This is not a true statement. I have built MANY of these and they were installed without a problem. The 6th Gens are tight but it can be done without modifcation. Not sure why you are trying to discourage other forum members but this is a very viable performance upgrade for non-ABS 02+ bikes.

Jamie,

I am only trying to help our members! They contact me for install help when trying to install 929 shocks (their buying from you) on a vtec and up until slowhare's install post I have never heard of a successful install on that app w/o the support bracket mod.

If it's a doable install then all I've been asking for is a usable procedure that can be posted up here on VFRD to help these members who Can't figure out how to make the 929 shock fit on their Vtecs! That's it. There's a thread active now WITH A MEMBER ASKING FOR THIS EXACT HELP AND A SECOND MEMBER POSTED IN THE SAME THREAD SAYING HE COULDN'T GET IT TO WORK EITHER! Both are your customers.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/72834-cbr929-shock-fitment-02-non-abs/#entry859493

Can you help here???

BR

I upgraded my suspension with Jamie Daugherty (occasionally postes on VFRD). I have to give him props.... The forks are a great improvement over stock, and he also provided me with a revalved/sprung 929 rear shock. Although I struggled with the installation ('07 non-ABS), it did fit....barely but with no modifications necessary for just installation (access to adjusters-maybe). I did, however have to remove the adapter he provided, and reinstall it after the shock was in place.

The bike turns much better, with less dive under braking and less squat under acceleration than before -- and that's without touching any adjustments, just installing it as he sent it. I'll check the sag and maybe adjust a little rebound dampening in the shock, but I expect the adjustments to be minor. He did all this from the information that I provided...weight, ridiing condition/level, etc.

We would like ALL the info on this install as you are the first to get a 929 shock to fit a Vtec w/o more mods.

Please tell us exactly what and how you did it, where was the spacer installed? Top or bottom, what way was the reservoir facing? front or rear, is it hitting the head or tray? etc., etc.

There are several members trying to get their 929 shock to fit w/o any luck.

Thanks

BR

Hi and welcome to VFRD!!!

Those are Throttlemaster cruise control bar ends, left is the one on the throttle side. The rods are the inserts needed to run them.

So what didn't you like about Convertibars? their suppose to be the most adjustable bars on the market!

BR

Good stuff guys, keep it coming!

Thanks!

I bought a set from a 95 ST1100 and they were the same length as the stock VFR's.

ST1100 cables are about 3 inches longer. I picked up a used set on Ebay for under $50.

Caution, not all ST1100 cables are longer!!! I bought two sets and one one either cable A or cable B was the same length as the VFR.

Fun project, keep it coming!

now I'm getting 15.8 15.9 volts at 4500-5000 rpms and I tried to run a wire from the r/r sending to the battery with the same results

maybe I need a new r/r? the bike has 14000 miles on it

That's WAY too hot of voltage there! That will cook the battery and a lot of other things running that much juice. I think the RR is the only thing that could cause that problem unless that monitor wire you mentioned earlier is not hooked up anymore! .

BR

There are three different Renthal street bars. Low, med, and high. I got the high ones. If you look at their website they give the dimensions.

Thx, I've seen that, but no ref to thoses numbers 755, 756, etc. Those are the hi ones then, ok.

BR

They have dimensions here:

LINK

http://www.renthal.c...odel=&bikedate=

Thank You!

comp/rebound will impact things more than anything with your bumps. the rate is necessary for your weight and to get proper sag geometry for handling. do what you will, but my suggestion is at least the 20kg spring.

Thanks! So a 20.3kg/mm shock-spring, and 1.0kg/mm fork-springs, or 0.95kg/mm fork-springs?

Yep, I would go .95 on teh front.

BR

Hey stranger, Long Time!!!

Thanks for teh update and keep them coming!!!

BR

There are three different Renthal street bars. Low, med, and high. I got the high ones. If you look at their website they give the dimensions.

Thx, I've seen that, but no ref to thoses numbers 755, 756, etc. Those are the hi ones then, ok.

BR

I just ordered Renthal 756 (high bars) bars to put on my 5th Gen. What year ST1100 and what cables will cross fit?

What's the difference in the 755 and 756 bars?

thx

Looks good, thanks for the info Seb!

Tag or Driven brand risers are a good place to start, bars are pretty universal, as long as the riser and bar sizes match. 7/8" vs 1 1/8"

If you want to go middle-of-the-road on price, buy the Spiegler bar and extended line kit as spec'd in their kit. Then adapt to your triple clamp using your own aftermarket risers.

Thanks Seb!

Looking on ebay Tag didn't really show up, I'll try the other.

I bought a set of these, they are 22mm rise so i'm not sure of what bend of bars I would want or need yet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170856046745?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I was thinking of wider flatter bars to get more leverage on the bars (less effort) and even more upright than my Heli's.

Guess I need a Wing!

BR