Baileyrock

T6 synthetic is 5w-40, the T is 15w-40 like the report specifies...

Oops's your that's dino..

The Doc is right... Rotella T6 5w-40 is full synthetic, the Rotella T 15w-40 is dino diesel engine oil.

What XRCRIS posted was his report from a sample of Rotella T 15w-40 dino oil

That is really kind of my point related to 3k oil changes in general. A huge waste of money and an Excellant Marketing Champaign by the oil Co's. Let's just focus on the Honda VFR here.

Honda Engineer's recomended 8k oil change intervals with Dino oil and if you follow any oil test reports Honda Branded Oil usually rates towards the bottom of quality list in most any oil comparo test.

Now let me put my simple mind to this issue starting only with a few facts first:

1- Honda produces high quality products

2- Honda engineers design those products

3- Honda engineers recommend 8k dino oil change intervals

4- Honda dino oil test in bottom half of quality testing(see about any test results)

5- Full Syn oil consistently test out better in all catigories vs dino oil ( to simplify only use info from top 5 Full Syn and top 5 dino oil from testing) btw no Honda oil on either list,

Now let me start some simple conjecture:

Honda engineers are comfy running their (lower quality) Branded dino at 8 k intervals, so by using a better quality dino oil like even the Rotella T mentioned here these same Honda engineers should easily approve 9k intervals using the better oil. Yes?

Full Syn oil consistently runs longer intervals while performing as good or more often better then similar dino's. Yes?

Now add together Honda engineered recommended 8k intervals, higher quality oil and now make it a high quality full syn oil and what intervals would you think those Honda engineers would recommend.

Just by using my simple mind, these 5 simple facts that are laided out above and the slightest amount of realistic conjecture I have some serious backing to be very comfortable changing my oil with a top 5 rated dino oil at 8k intervals.

I run Mobil 1 and am very happy with 6-8k intervals and have hit 10k once, wish I would have tested it!!!

All intervals can be adjusted up or down based on other factors like how, where, temps, how many 4th gear wheelies, etc. but in general

I consider any sub 5k interval severe over indulgence.

Peace Out and Save the Dinosaurs!

PS I'm Old and Slow but still run the piss out of my bikes and I've put over 105,000 miles on this one so far.

BR

Dude... it was 75 F in Nashville today... what are you doing on a Winter blues oil thread???

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Recovering from shoulder surgery. :-(

Darn .

I blame guys like you and Kimbell.

Doc said I over rotated my shoulder trying to achieve 150% throttle position attempting to ride with you guys!

T6 synthetic is 5w-40, the T is 15w-40 like the report specifies...

Oops's your that's dino..

The Doc is right... Rotella T6 5w-40 is full synthetic, the Rotella T 15w-40 is dino diesel engine oil.

What XRCRIS posted was his report from a sample of Rotella T 15w-40 dino oil

That is really kind of my point related to 3k oil changes in general. A huge waste of money and an Excellant Marketing Champaign by the oil Co's. Let's just focus on the Honda VFR here.

Honda Engineer's recomended 8k oil change intervals with Dino oil and if you follow any oil test reports Honda Branded Oil usually rates towards the bottom of quality list in most any oil comparo test.

Now let me put my simple mind to this issue starting only with a few facts first:

1- Honda produces high quality products

2- Honda engineers design those products

3- Honda engineers recommend 8k dino oil change intervals

4- Honda dino oil test in bottom half of quality testing(see about any test results)

5- Full Syn oil consistently test out better in all catigories vs dino oil ( to simplify only use info from top 5 Full Syn and top 5 dino oil from testing) btw no Honda oil on either list,

Now let me start some simple conjecture:

Honda engineers are comfy running their (lower quality) Branded dino at 8 k intervals, so by using a better quality dino oil like even the Rotella T mentioned here these same Honda engineers should easily approve 9k intervals using the better oil. Yes?

Full Syn oil consistently runs longer intervals while performing as good or more often better then similar dino's. Yes?

Now add together Honda engineered recommended 8k intervals, higher quality oil and now make it a high quality full syn oil and what intervals would you think those Honda engineers would recommend.

Just by using my simple mind, these 5 simple facts that are laided out above and the slightest amount of realistic conjecture I have some serious backing to be very comfortable changing my oil with a top 5 rated dino oil at 8k intervals.

I run Mobil 1 and am very happy with 6-8k intervals and have hit 10k once, wish I would have tested it!!!

All intervals can be adjusted up or down based on other factors like how, where, temps, how many 4th gear wheelies, etc. but in general

I consider any sub 5k interval severe over indulgence.

Peace Out and Save the Dinosaurs!

PS I'm Old and Slow but still run the piss out of my bikes and I've put over 105,000 miles on this one so far.

BR

Dude... it was 75 F in Nashville today... what are you doing on a Winter blues oil thread???

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Recovering from shoulder surgery. :-(

T6 synthetic is 5w-40, the T is 15w-40 like the report specifies...

Oops's your that's dino..

The Doc is right... Rotella T6 5w-40 is full synthetic, the Rotella T 15w-40 is dino diesel engine oil.

What XRCRIS posted was his report from a sample of Rotella T 15w-40 dino oil

That is really kind of my point related to 3k oil changes in general. A huge waste of money and an Excellant Marketing Champaign by the oil Co's. Let's just focus on the Honda VFR here.

Honda Engineer's recomended 8k oil change intervals with Dino oil and if you follow any oil test reports Honda Branded Oil usually rates towards the bottom of quality list in most any oil comparo test.

Now let me put my simple mind to this issue starting only with a few facts first:

1- Honda produces high quality products

2- Honda engineers design those products

3- Honda engineers recommend 8k dino oil change intervals

4- Honda dino oil test in bottom half of quality testing(see about any test results)

5- Full Syn oil consistently test out better in all catigories vs dino oil ( to simplify only use info from top 5 Full Syn and top 5 dino oil from testing) btw no Honda oil on either list,

Now let me start some simple conjecture:

Honda engineers are comfy running their (lower quality) Branded dino at 8 k intervals, so by using a better quality dino oil like even the Rotella T mentioned here these same Honda engineers should easily approve 9k intervals using the better oil. Yes?

Full Syn oil consistently runs longer intervals while performing as good or more often better then similar dino's. Yes?

Now add together Honda engineered recommended 8k intervals, higher quality oil and now make it a high quality full syn oil and what intervals would you think those Honda engineers would recommend.

Just by using my simple mind, these 5 simple facts that are laided out above and the slightest amount of realistic conjecture I have some serious backing to be very comfortable changing my oil with a top 5 rated dino oil at 8k intervals.

I run Mobil 1 and am very happy with 6-8k intervals and have hit 10k once, wish I would have tested it!!!

All intervals can be adjusted up or down based on other factors like how, where, temps, how many 4th gear wheelies, etc. but in general

I consider any sub 5k interval severe over indulgence.

Peace Out and Save the Dinosaurs!

PS I'm Old and Slow but still run the piss out of my bikes and I've put over 105,000 miles on this one so far.

BR

^^^^ And way to soft , I ran .90kg's front springs and they flatten out on me. Gonna get in contact with Jamie move up to .95kg's

David, did you ever make this change?

Seen it!

Cop swap?

Coil On Plug, what the 6th gen uses.

stator good too on the last time I tested

If everything tests out good like you say it would almost have to be a bad/loose connection or and issue with the Ground.

BR

Have you tested your battery?

The clock will reset anytime the voltage drops below a specific level when you hit the Start button, wether it's a bad connection, component or battery causing the drop.

BR

2000/2001 condom less VFR800 mirrors!

I was just wanting to change the oil. My seals are fine as far as I can tell. Nothing is leaking externally. Based on the look of the fork oil I removed (clean looking) my guess was that the previous owner had worked on them not that long ago, possibly right before I bought the bike.

The whole point of trying the 30 minute oil change (for me) was to keep the forks on the bike so I didn't have to battle the triple clamp bolts under up under the fairing. And because it was my first time dealing with forks myself.

I let both forks drain a long time. I did remove the cartridge and pumped out all of the old oil before reinserting it. If anything there was a small spot at the bottom of the fork near the drain hole and very light residual oil left the sidewalls of the tubes. I know these small amounts add up and will be added to the overall quantity of oil I add. I probably should have used some brake cleaner to clean it out properly, but at the time my reasoning was that I didn't feel that small amount would make a difference (as I am sure there is residual oil inside the cartridge as well). However, maybe I am wrong. My manual (1998-2001) states "Fluid Capacity 457ml plus or minus 2.5ml". I put exactly 457ml in using a syringe.

My real concern is whether or not oil is able to make its way into the cartridge if it wasn't pre-pumped in prior to the fork cap being tightened (creating some sort of air pressure issue?). I don't know enough about forks/suspension to know.

I don't think it's an issue at all as all air will works it's way to the top is short order and things will be normal.

Also adding the exact amount of recommended oil vs a level will also be a mute item. I run an extra 10cc's in my forks to help firm them up slightly.

That's all screwed up as far as im concerned for cartridge fork set up, they need to be pumped bled and oil height measured .

and anytime you break the seals, best to replace(that's one issue I have with 30 minute oil change(your just risking seal issue). also you don't even have to even separate the forks, just to change oil., you do have to remove the legs, and the top caps and spring. No need to touch bottom fork bolt, unless your doing a complete disassembly.

You do Not "break the seal" with this method so no worries there related to the seals!

Again I don't suggest this is better then a full blown dis assembly of the forks, but for most it's a much easier way to improve your bike's fork performance.

It's really no different then changing your engine oil w/o performing a complete engine disassemble y to get out all the dirt and old oil, this method gets most of it and replaces most of the old oil replacing it with fresh.

I always use an impact wrench to remove & tighten the bottom cartridge retaining bolt with the fork fully assembled, using the spring pressure to hold the cartridge assm.

This method has only not worked once in my life.

Yes, looks good as long as the copper gasket is on it.

Awesome!!! Just pinned this great topic.

Carry on and keep posting!

BR

Sweet VFR, enjoy the ride, whatever it's on!

Thanks again guys :)

Not sure I ever told you how thrilled I am at the front end I bought from you Bailyrock. Looking back and thinking of all the worn out front forks I could have ended up with it is amazing i stumbled onto your sale when I did!

What the Fork?

Cool, that means I played a very small part in that beauty!

Still one of the Sweetest, cleanest and sexiest builds ever!

Amazing!

How about something like this lotus?

That is Very Cool!

For me, Wilbers springs & RaceTech valves combined with a Wilbers rear (with separate reservoir) did the trick nicely. I got it set up acc to my needs & I'm happy. I will not look too soon for another fork upgrade.

Last year I rode 700+ km/day twice on dry & pouring rain never losing traction or missing my intended trajectory. Even on the mountain trails (no tarmac but rocks & light mud) my front never faltered on both dry & wet - I did used Pirelli Scorpion Trail rubber :) . See relatedpics in the link bellow.

One option for you would be to use F4i internals in your VFR forks, this would gain you rebound adjustment only.

Any idea what is the spring rate for stock VFR800 VTEC fork spring rate?Progressive or linear?

All 800's seem to be fitted with .744 kg fork springs.

I think the biggest factor is the type and style of riding you do!

If your all hwy then go with a bigger front, personally I only really ride twisties and LOVE the feel of a stronger pull out of turns. For the first 80,000 miles or so I've always cheeped out and just drop the front 1 tooth and loved it. A smaller front does create more heat in the chain IMO, but I didn't care. After 100,000 miles on it I changed to a 520 set-up and went 2 up in the rear just to see what happens.

Changing front sprockets is easy and cheap! I would buy or borrow a 1 dn (stock 6th gen)and a 1 up front just to test the feel and results, then if you like the 1 dn set-up just buy a stock front/2-3 up rear and your golden.

BR

my uk bike does't have this mod. ive got the problem of buzzing sound no lights and the engine has been cutting out. the yellow block is melted and ive oredered a replacement front harness. if i do the blue connector mob will it fix the problem for me

In most cases this Mod will fix the issue, but probably not if your grounding block is melted.

Is there a similar weak ground in the 5th gen? If so do any of you know where I might look for it? My fuel pump is not working!

Not really like the 6th gens!

Check the Tip Over sensor or Kill Switch first.

Isn't Tinyminds Map still in our downloads or was he using a PC3?

Tried that already - I've made the kill switch mistake before (bumped it while working on bike) so I check that first now.

Starter works. Lights work. Dash lights up.

I'll check further next weekend but me thinks my PCIII might have tanked. No way I'm going back to the old fueling (low speed on-off sensitivity and relatively rough V-Tec transition) so I may have to replace it.

First step is to always disconnect the PC first and go from there if needed.!

Hi HzE, welcome!

If you use the F4/F4i shock w/o a spacer the rear end will be dropped 30-40mm because of the ratio factor(something in the 3-4 to 1 range) and your not that short. Yes if you would then drop the front end a similar amount you could maintain most of the bikes balance, but again don't think you want to lower the entire bike over an inch.

Spring wise, the stock vfr spring is too soft(15.3kg) and the F4/F4i is softer (around 14kg). I suggest you at least change out the upper mount bolt to a longer one (caution a standard bolt head will hit shock w/o grinding or using a flat head bolt) and at least add washers to gain the length needed. Install a 17-18 kg rear and .85 - .90 kg front springs. I think you can control the stiffer spring with the adjustable damping of the F4 shock, ideal no but worth trying on a tight budget.

BR

Nice Write up!!! Thanks

I also replaced the front CCT w/o bleeding out coolant, can't remember if I move the throttle bodies or not.

I have pics somewhere.

BR

320 mm front rotor ?

That's what I have on mine.

If I went to radial calipers with some adaptor brackets for my current forks, I could use 330mm rotors, but that's not only $1000 all-in, but also a bit overkill.

And they hang off a set of Ohlins forks to boot!