Blue Viffer

Like everyone else glad that you are OK. After having a highspeed get off take your time to getting back to it. It is great to be alive but don't let it change you. Enjoy rebuilding and heal quickly.

vince

Vince, can you reload your pics for this thread?

Thanks

BR

BR, just saw this request this AM will check tonight or tomorrow night to see if I still have those pics. Think so but with moving to a far distant land where you can only ride 6 months out of the year things get misplaced. Now where is that bike.

vince

Finished reloading pics. Just went through and re-read thread and found that some questions I did not answer after posting. I was in the middle of a move from SoCal to Oregon and did not shine you on. If you have any questions that you might want me to answer please ask.

vince

Vince, can you reload your pics for this thread?

Thanks

BR

BR, just saw this request this AM will check tonight or tomorrow night to see if I still have those pics. Think so but with moving to a far distant land where you can only ride 6 months out of the year things get misplaced. Now where is that bike.

vince

Thanks Ken, I'm liking the sliders, I'm really liking your elim as well, now I just need to get my new bike. Food for though, I wonder how difficult it would be to make a template for the fairing hole that you just stuck on the fairing to center the hole in stead of having to get the long bit? Just a thought, similar to what the auto industry does for applying declas etc.

How much are the sliders anyway?

Go to harbor frieght and in the drill section you can find a 3 or 4 piece set of drills 20" long for like $5.95 or so. Worked great for my install.

vince

Toro,

Another question for you would a PCII work or would you need the III?

vince

Toro,

Looking over pictures of your kit I don't see any injectors or a bigger oil cooler. I seem to recall you changed your injectors and added a bigger oil cooler. Maybe my memory is fading a little. You might have only installed bigger injectors.

My question is: are bigger injectors needed with this kit as it stands? The oil cooler might not be necc if you live in cooler climates?

vince

Travis

Any chance you could locate the lupis blue code for my y2k? I have a few nasty scratches on the tank for the PO

Thx

Dude,

PB257M is the color that I was given by a honda parts man.

vince

Great thinking! I'm on board with the sss show, it was one of the reasons I liked the vfr, the other was the underseat exhaust. Unfortunately the fifth gen doesn't have the right combo. I don't like the front fairing or engine of the sixth gen so that's why I don't just buy one of them. Has anyone done this mod on a fifth gen? If you did this on a fifth gen would the factory bags mount up?

I Don't quite understand the above comment. What doesn't the 5th gen have.

vince

Quick Review... I'm 6' 3", 280lbs. I went out for about 40miles with them and can tell the difference. Definitely more roomy, I don't think that the newness will wear off with this. I use to have a GSXR 750 so a stock VFR was a godsend. Now combined with the Sargeant, Bar Risers, and the lowering blocks I can see making it the 883miles to our company's training facility in Norman, Oklahoma. (2 day trip of course...) The fit and finish were superb. It took a second to figure out what side was what. I did have to adjust the brake light and pedal but the whole deal took about twenty minutes. I don't think that ground clearance will be a problem especially on the commute to work. Seriously, this mod is highly recommended and I think you should support one of our members.

6'1, 230 :rolleyes:

VINCE

Someone has more "free time" than I do................. :unsure:

Now how is that possible? :unsure:

vince

Rob,

Haven't had the rear of the bike off for a while now. But will take it off and take some pictures for you here this weekend. I work on Sat so it will probably be Sunday.

With the link wolf supplied I have no rubbing problems when 2 up. And I am not too light. How ever the wife is about average 135#.

The pics Phantom posted were a whole lot cleaner than what the wolf set up is.

Will get back soon.

vince

Basically, I want USD forks, with stock (or close to) ergos, without loosing ride height on my '91 ... seems like I'll need RC51 forks, 929 upper triple, clip-ons on top, and an SP-1 lower triple.  Although, I would prefer to put a complete 929/954 front end on it, I don't want bad ergos or altered geometry...  What should I do?

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With 929 954 top clamp and early rc bottom you could use either the 929 954 or rc 51 forks. You have enough to adjust the forks up and down in the clamps as to not have bad geometry. Ask BLS for a computer analysis of your bike with the different clamps and forks. I liked the rc forks because they have stiffer springs and longer travel. Being a big guy it makes the ride just right for me.

vince

BLUEVIFFER ... Do you have RC51 forks or the 929/954 forks??

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I have the RC 51 forks, besides being longer in length than the 929 954 version you have a little more travel something on the oreder of 5.1 inches to 4.8 inches.

And with the 954 top clamp and rc bottom you can adjust them up and down in the clamps to get the feeling you want when turning in.

vince

If you use CBR929/954 or GSXR forks you have to use clipons that mount under the triple clamps.

veefer800canuck used a set of helibars for a Ducati 900SS on his RC51 front end conversion, and maintained a bar height that was higher and further back than stock - which is the way he wanted it. You can get higher, lower or equal to stock bar height and position depending on which fork/triple/clipon combination you use in your conversion.

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I used the stock RC51 clip ons at first above the tripple clamps. A little too far forward for my tastes. Did the convertibars still not to my liking. Then found helibars for a 929. Fit is very close to stock bars when put on top or the clamp.

If you want a little more relaxed you could even use the 954 helibars.

And by the way I did raise my forks about 5mm and am going to raise them another 5mm but I have the rear raised for the pipes.

vince

nice write up vince.....but i saw no mention of torsion bar any where in the whole thing?

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We have a hidden Paralever design on the drawing board for those of you still in the 60's.

Actually it is Fixer's assignment to find a fool who will help him with the design construction, fitting and testing to a 6th Gen bike that is of the faster red color that is a one of a kind with mig pipes. :wheel:

He is now hard at work in the basement of the mad scientist's lab. :goofy:

Pictures to follow. :beer: :beer:

vince

This first picture is of what I consider the first thing to do when making a modification of this type, getting a baseline or measurement of your current ride height. This shows the measurement to the ground from the bottom of the frame at the point the steering stem ataches to it. 28 3/4" on my Bike.

Here I am removing the circlip to remove the stock handlebars.

This shows the start of the removal of the Top plate of top clamp.

With this picture you need to remember the warning on the 2000-2001 Steering Stem vs the 2002 and up. The 2000-2001 is on the left.

Now this picture shows the adjustability of using the RC 51 steering stem with shorter forks. Here I am using RC forks and the line above the clamp is the start of the tube taper from 50mm back to 43mm. With shorter forks that line would be closer to the clamps giving you less adjustment. If you use 929-954 lower clamp the line would be closer to the clamp and allow less adjustability. Especially if you were using shorter forks ie R-1 or others.

This is the current 5 Spoke wheel for a RC it is lighter than the previous 6 Spoke wheel and I thought having a 5 spoke wheel on the rear already it would be nice to add one to the front. Maybe a 6 spoke would look as good because you really don't see much of it through the brake rotors.

After putting it all together without bodywork.

Now for the completed work, you be the judge was it worth it or not? Looks yes, performance for me yes but still adjusting.

Hope this quiets the gents and their not worth anything with out pics.

At 1:00am in the morning I was a little bit leary eyed and thought you would appreciate proper posting of pictures.

Enjoy!

vince

I have a severe time problem at the moment!

The progress is slow to say the least. I have all the stuff to mount the fork but so far I have only tried to install the 929 steering head. It sure is cramped down there. I think I will have to shave off a piece of the faring that is right at the lower triple clamp, on both sides. Nobody will think of it unless he's a 4:th gen expert. The oil cooler hose rubbing problem will be bigger it seems at the moment) than I've heard from 5:th gen swappers. I don't think a RC51 early model (SP1) lower triple will do. It does not seem to have enough gullwing to clear the hoses. I may need to move the oil cooler forward, but then the hoses will be too short, or rearward, behind the triples, but then I don't know how it will affect cooling.

But all this is very preliminary thinking. I need more garage-time for a proper evaluation.

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Take your time and do it right. Make sure you read our last few posts on the front suspension rake trail adjustments you might need to make due to the difference in rake of the tripple clamps. When you get yours together take it easy riding to get the feel for the steering. You might need to change the ride height to give you less trail so it steers either like it did or better.

Enjoy the pursuit.

vince

This is my Front end super uber mod. Please don't try this without much thought and get all your questions answered by a professional before you begin.

I decided to change my forks out to RC 51 forks after much thought about rebuilding. Rebuilding with new springs valves and possible F4 internals would run somewhere between $700.00 - $1000.00. I figured with a little luck I could change my front end for about the same and come out ahead with trick upside down forks and better brakes.

Now after much looking on this forum and VFR World and even STNet. I read about and saw pictures of Murphy.

Having a few years back looking at Superhawk forks and decided that I would not gain enough for my money I shelved that thought.

Now comes along an ill timed pass on a Van that did not see me and Voila instant money. Insurance.

Again don't try this at home.

Getting back to the story....Well I read that you could put on 929,954,RC51,R-1 or any fork of the 43mm dia using Honda triple clamps. You can use 929, 954 or RC51 clamps and use the other forks with their corresponding wheels,axle, brakes and fender. Make up some brake lines and there you have it a new front end.

Well guys and gals it isn't quite that easy but almost.

You see Cars Trucks Motorcycles or anything on wheels have to be stable when moving in a straight line or even turning so we have what in the auto industry is called alignment of a vehicle. Now being an Auto Mechaninc and not a Jet Aircraft Fixer I knew enough to understand ride height and a little about what we call caster and kingpin inclintaion or rake and trail on a motorcycle. So.... looking at my bike all stripped down and reading about Safe-t and Whylee putting RC51 forks on their bikes I looked more into that than the other options. I also have a 954 sitting in the garage so could look at that front end and forks and picture them on the VFR and also compare lengths of fork tubes. Now with Safe-T's measurements of Fork tube lengths and my own 2 bikes to measure (VFR & 954) I decided the RC forks were closest in length and looked oh so CUTE with the adjuster at the bottom of the front of the fork tube. Kinda like the old superbike forks of old.

Any way back to it. Now having decided on the forks you have to decide on the clamps to hold them.

Whylee had already finished his bike and posted the fact that the 929,954 Steering stem or bottom clamp hits his radiator hose when turning. Not to good. So looking at the RC steering stem or bottom Clamp it has a gullwing shape and drops down at that point. The other good thing about this is you can use shorter fork tubes in this bottom clamp and still maintain the proper ride height that your VFR had to begin with. NOW THE CAUTION!! Ride height is not all that you need to be aware of. Larry of Busy Little Shop will tell you the RAKE (TRAIL) is also important for stability and ability to turn or not to turn.

Ask Whylee. Not Having the computer knowledge or previous years of experience with Motorcycle Rebuilding that Larry has but having Auto Experience I know you need the right Caster in a car or RAKE TRAIL combination on a bike to turn etc. Again this is the reason I chose the RC51 lower clamp to allow adjustment up or down of the fork tubes to gain that Caster or RAKE TRAIL NEEDED. If you choose the top plate or clamp of a 929, 954 you also have a gullwing shape. It allows if you have the shorter than RC 51 fork tubes you a chance to use those tubes and maybe adjust them up or down enough for proper rake trail combination.

If You use short tubes like 929 or 954 or maybe even R-1 or gixxer tubes you will absolutely need to use the 929-954 top plate and the RC51 bottom clamp combination to give you any chance of adjustment....Or you could have Larry or someone of his calibre make you up custom clamps.

If any of you FRANKINVIFFER'S out there would like my Opinion after doing this modification listen up.

Advice. Think carefully about what you want out of your bike. Handling will only improve if set up right. The forks will only be able to soak up bumps better if set up for your weight.

Money, always add a little extra for any unforeseen problem in any modification to your vehicle.

If you want to continue then this is what I recommend.

954 top plate or clamp. Same as 929. 2000-2001 RC 51 steering Stem. I do not recommend the use of the RC 51 top plate at all. It will work but it limits the ability to adjust the forks only so far down for those of you using shorter fork tubes.

Forks to use.

Your choice but I would look hard at something of comparable length to the VFR.

RC 51 is my choice but you could use others. Probably but I am not sure in length the Suzuki SV1000. You could also probably use the FZ1. More likely longer than an R-1 with the same brakes.

Possibly the Suzuki V-Strom 1000 also. Any of these will require their brakes wheels axles and fenders.

After you are done with any modification take it slowly at first to get a feel for the results. Make or have made the proper adjustments to get the right alignment (Rake Trail) for proper steering. And be really careful on your first test ride. Then recheck your work. Tighten or check tightness of all your critical bolts and nuts. Always check your brakes before riding a modified bike like this.

After my modifications I am still fine tuning. First I need to get a little less trail or caster in my bike so it steers a little quicker. My bike has been raised in the rear 10mm for clearance of exhaust and is not stock rake. It turns like a stock VFR with my combination right now. Yes it soaks up bumps better and has better front suspension and brakes but I still need to fine tune it. With this mod I no longer have linked brakes and need to change my rear master cylinder to get better brake response from the rear. I went with the RC front Brake Master for better Clearance around the windshield area. And now want to complete that with a Hydraulic master to match for clearance around the left side area.

I am not real happy with my convertibars so I am going to 929-954 handlebars on top of the top plate as I have plenty of room to do this with the combo 954 top plate and long enough RC51 fork tubes.

I think this is a very good mod for those of you who are capable or willing to learn....But this mod is NOT FOR EVERYONE! Some of you should not even think of a mod like this. Your bike is fine the way it is being used and works great.

Again this is the way I did it and just my HUMMBBLLEE OPINION.

For those of you interested I am sure if you ask you will get honest opinions from Safe-T, Whylee, or Larry as to how and why they did or do modifications.

Good Luck and Hope this is better insight than the rest of us had when we decided to make a leap into FRANKENVIFFERING.

frankinviffer is a trademark of Safe-T inc.

vince

Sorry Whylee I did not put this in print before your get off. Hope your bike isn't too badly damaged.

It is the gullwing shape of the UPPER clamp that gives you the room to mount the clip-ons. I have a diagram of this if anyone can convert it to jpeg format and post it for me.

I agree with the upper clamp that gives room to mount the clip-ons.

That is why I suggest stock 929 or 954 upper, it is a gullwing shape and when used with the lower early RC 51 Steering stem gives plenty of room for asjustability.

vince

I'm selling the forks so I finally had the triples and steering stem off.

As I slide the RC51 stem in I notice something is wrong, IT IS A RC51 02 OR LATER MODEL, (in Europe called SP2)!!

D#%&ed, I knew I had to use a early (SP1) model and I tried to make sure that the guy knew what it was he was selling. Didn't help this time... Now a 929 unit is in the mail. I would rather have a RC51 lower triple (gullwing), but they are not as easily accessible here in Europe (I can find them at the brakers, but they are expensive!) let's se if it works out this time...

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For those of you that don't understand the difference in the early versus late RC 51 Steering stem. Here is a picture of the two side by side. The 2000-2001 is the one on the left. It is the same as a 929 or 954 steering stem except for the gull wing shape. Therefore the forks can mount lower in the clamps and you will have room on top for handlebars above the stock 929 or 954 top clamp.

Hope this helps.

p.s. the one on the left has the steering stops cut off for my instalation on Blue Frankenviffer.

vince