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KanadianKen

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Posts posted by KanadianKen

  1. how does it work as a backrest? can you kick back and reach the bars in comfort?

    WIth the Vista cruise locked on, and my knees hugging the tank, I should be able to lean back and steer it like I used to do to my 10 speed.... :P Backrest might be a misnomer - It certainly isn't in my back as I ride - but its close enough that I can stretch back enough and lean on it for a bit at stops. WHo knows - maybe it's too close - only a good ride will tell me.

    Tampa - I heard that you like nipples - admitting it is the first step you know!!!! :goofy:

  2. Looks great Ken.  Are you sure that you can't remove the seat if you don't use the rear cowl?

    AFter I installed it the first time, I realized I had the stock seat on, so I grabbed the Sargent, and tried to remove the stocker. In case anyone is interested, the stock seat is VERY flexible, but I didn't want to find the breaking point. Its too tight as is. Need to raise the topplate up at least 1 - 1/2 inches to help it clear.

  3. IMG_0271.jpg

    I finally mounted the brackets to the topplate for my GIVI E52 today. I used a set of templates I found from a Quebec VFRD member, and had a metal shop cut and bend them.

    I sanded them down, and shot them with black Tremclad - semi gloss. I think the turned out pretty good.

    THe brackets allow the topbox to be positioned over the pillion seat, and it appears that it will afford lotts of room to move around, but also could be a handy backrest.

    640http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e114/kenirwin/IMG_0271.jpg[/img]

    I was worried that the TOpplate would rub on the seat cowl, but it seems to have a 1/4 inch of clearance - so it should be fine.

    640http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e114/kenirwin/IMG_0273.jpg[/img]

    I also have DSS sidebags, and the bracketry has to be mounted before these brackets are installed - its a bit of a PITA to get the sidebag brackets, the grab handles, and the topplate brackets lined up and installed - but it works.

    One down side to this method of relocating the topbox is that the seat will not come off without removing the brackets first. THere is not enough clearance. If I can figure out a way - or someone here has an idea - to raise the topplate - I'll do that. MAking a new bracket that has a higher vertical would work, but I'm trying to make work what I have.

    The topbox sits nicely on top of the pillion area, and doesn't protrude past the tail of the bike.

    640http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e114/kenirwin/IMG_0275.jpg[/img]

    Overall - I'm pleased with this little project. Just need some weather now to go out and ride!!

    IMG_0278.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

  4. Just a suggestion, you should never twist the threads of wore toghether before soldering, with your BARE fingers. ANy salt, persperation on your fingers is now transferred to the wire and you've set in place the beginnings of corrosion.

    USe a good pair of wire strippers, and insert the wires into each other - never twist them together unless you have clean gloves on.

    OTher than that - good stuff!!!

  5. Posted this in other thread yesterday - bu tif you want to keep consistent - heres my $.02......

    I have an 02' and after I saw Bailey's post about his burned up 30 amp fuse, I checked mine. HEre's how mine looked:

    DSC03104.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

    DSC03102.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

    ANd here's how I fixed it - :

    Lead from the battery:

    DSC03109.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

    30 AMp fuse with 10 guage wire:

    DSC03108.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

    I used heat shrink tubing, fibre loom for heat protection, and dielectric grease on the connectors. HAsn't been a problem since.

    I will be pulling the BLue connector at the front apart before riding season - make sure the ground wire is still good.

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