KanadianKen

Good stuff Rich - thanks for sharing the bottle "how to".

Looks great!

Well done!! I'd love to see how you did the coolant bottle - any tricks or tips to share?

How were the nerves while cutting the fairings?

The sliders arrived.

The sliders are installed.

The Customer (me) is happy.

If there is anyone in the Calgary area planning to do an install of Radar's most fine Sliders, I sure can lend a 18" drill. an 1-1/8" hole saw (used only twice) and a honking long piece of drill rod. PM me.

:D :D

Slider1

Slider2

PS

I also have pictures of the coolant bottle rework if anyone would like to see 'em

I am in week 3 waiting for some items from California... Sent via USPS. I know how it feels.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...st&p=355900

the above link to the original thread may help you out.....

I should have said that a squirt of WD 40 - or some other lube in the guides might help. Unless you were literally unable to get the 1/4" drill through it?

Radar does some damn nice work.

Glad things went well - but wheres the pics????????

I have installed the set of red bases on my 02 RED. I like the look.

Heres a couple shots:

The red is not Honda red - but it looks great.

I have one complete set of Radars BLACK bases, and sliders - along with everything needed - if there is anyone that needs them. PM me, and we'll work out the details to get them to you. You will be paying Darren, I'm just a distribution centre.......

Ken...I had already planned to stop by Autozone after work today...there's also an Advance Auto Parts near me too...I'll see what they both have. Ron

THanks Ron!

I called a couple more big name auto parts stores - NAPA for example. THey do not have a part listed for the 7443 in amber. I called a HOnda Bike dealer and they have them in stock for $5.00 a piece. Guess I 'll have to go to a dealer to get them, as they don't seem to have hit the aftermarket here yet.

NIce modification!!! :thumbsup:

SPeaking of Fixer - where is the Bastage? I thought he would be all over this one - his effects of getting a Stinky Inline 4 will resonate for years to come... MErcy - BLA must be having convulsions about mixing stock parts from an I4 onto a V4 bike...... :joystick:

I've hooked up with a steel fabricator/manufacturer that will make me up some sets of the Top box brackets that I have on my 02.

For now - there is a "prototype" set made that I have yet to look at, but I'm sure the quality is excellent. These brackets fit on top of the grab handles on a 6th Gen, and allow you to mount a GIVI type base plate to it - and then the topbox that mounts to the base.

The brackets allow the seat and cowl to be removed without having to take the brackets off - access to tool kit, battery - etc - is unaffected.

Looks something like this:

The benefit of this set up is that the weight of the topbox and contents is now repositioned above the pillion seat - versus hanging out back with the standard rack setup. The downside to this bracket set up is that you lose the pillion seat. For me it isn't an issue.

Here's a couple shots of the raw brackets from my mod of last year. These brackets were not yet cleaned up and painted. The ones I'm having made will be painted gloss black, or will be powder coated - not sure of the cost on powder coating.

I'm trying to gauge interest so I can plan on how many sets to build. The brackets will not have drill holes for the base plates - as I do not want to "commit" that every user will have a GIVI system. This shouldn't be a problem, as it is simply a matter of attaching the brackets, laying the base plate on the brackets, marking the holes and then drilling them.

Price is $83.00 USD including shipping in Canada or the USA. Other countries I'll be happy to get you actual shipping prices. (Base price for the brackets is $75.00USD - but to make it simple I added in $8.00 for shipping).

IF you are interested in a set, please let me know. I have heard from two members in the last two days that want a set, so I thought I'd post this up for any others.

Thanks!

Ken

SEE THE FULL THREAD AND FINISHED PRODUCT AT :

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...st&p=361551

THanks Trace.

THe bottle isn't as tough to fix up as it appears at first. After cutting said notch in the bottle, I used a piece of scrap Polyethylene, and some Crazy Glue from Loctite designed for polyethylene - and it worked great.

:thumbsup:

Drilling for Sliders

I talked with RADAR tonight, and he asked me if I would mind condensing, and making the "how to install his sliders thread" a little more fluid and updated. The other thread I started is a great mix of what I did, and has a lot of good feedback from many folks here which is much appreciated!!! However, it is 4 pages long, and not as easy of a read as would be appreciated by many.

So, the majority of what is in this thread, is from the original, but with all the updated information. Hope its helpful to those of you that have ordered a set. :thumbsup:

Radars Sliders and Installation

And how to drill your fairings without having a nervous breakdown.

For product availability EMAIL RADAR AT : radar88ster AT gmail.com

I was the test for Radars awesome sliders, and finally I got fed up with the cold and snow, and went into the garage for about an hour today. The results below are very good, and I think Radar (Darren) has hit a home run with the products he makes. Read on.. Its long and photo heavy - but I hope it explains how this was done, and the simple tools that were needed.

1) You will need to acquire the Basic goods from Radar (Darren in Saskatoon, Sk., Canada). Get yourself the slider mounts, the bolts, and the sliders themselves.

The trick to this installation is based on two very simple yet custom turned centering plugs. These plugs fit snugly into the holes where the front engine bolt goes through. Darren turned these, and sends them with an o-ring installed to snug up the fit.

2) From your local hardware store, you need to pick up a few things. You will need an 18" long ¼"inch drill bit, a 1 1/8" hole saw, an arbor to hold the hole saw, as well as a length of ¼" drill rod.

3) Ok first things first. This would be a very easy install with an extra set of hands and eyes helping out, I flew solo on this cold winter day but it all worked out perfectly. Strip off the side fairings, and remove the coolant bottle. On the bottom of the coolant bottle is the spout that the hose attaches to cap that with a rubber cap so it doesn't leak out all over the floor. Put the coolant bottle out of the way for now. Back to this later.

4) Next remove the front engine bolt. This bolt passes from the left side of the frame, through a floating spacer/big ass washer, through the engine, and exits through the frame on the right side. You will need to take this bolt (which on 6th Gens is hollow) and get the inside tapped on both ends about an inch deep to fit the bolts that Darren sends. (I'll edit this after I get the exact specs back from Darren). This is ultimately where the Slider bases mount to the bike by far the strongest location on the bike. Heres the bolt after it is tapped.

5) Insert the Centering plugs into the holes from the engine bolt. The following picture has the drill bit going through the centering plug, but you get the idea. Spray some aerosol lubricant into the center of the centering plug it'll make the drilling go easier.

6) Now reinstall the right side fairing, and put the Honda securing bolts back in and tighten them up. You need the right side fairing to be held securely, as the first hole that is drilled, originates from the left side, and uses the 18" long ¼" drill bit. The drill bit is slid in through the centering plug on the left side, through the floating spacer/big ass washer – and then carefully through the right side centering plug. Hook up the bit to the drill, and take a deep breath. Get the drill going about half speed, and gently start to push it into the fairing. You may feel the drill skip depending on where its touching the inside of the fairing. Have your helper gently press against the fairing in the direction of the drill bit. The drill will pop through, and you should have a clean ¼" hole like this.

7) Now retract the 18" long drill bit, and get the 1 1/8" hole saw, and the length of drill rod. I had to buy 36 inches of drill rod so I left it that length. You could cut it down to 18" and be just fine. Install the drill rod onto the arbor for the hole saw. The arbor I used already had a ¼" centre drill bit in it, so I removed the drill bit and installed the drill rod. It is simply used to keep the hole saw cutting in a perfect circle as it is guided by the centering plugs on both ends.

8) From the RIGHT side of the bike, insert the drill rod through the already drilled ¼" hole, and get it through the engine, and out to the other side of the other centering plug.

Heres what it looks like on the other side with the drill rod slipped through.

Again get the drill spinning about half speed and with easy pressure cut the hole in the side of the fairing. The centering plugs will keep the hole saw from skipping or jumping. It only takes a few seconds, and you're through. One down, one to go!!

9) Now take off the right side fairing. You can take some fine sandpaper to the hole on the right fairing and gently clean up any plastic strings that didn't come off clean. (Leave it off for now as the engine bolt has to be re-installed.)

10) Before you re-install the left side fairing, prop something under the spacer (I used a pair of pliers).

11) From the RIGHT side of the bike, you slip the 18" long ¼" drill bit through the centering plug, through the engine and out through the left centering plug on the left side of the bike. Once the drill bit is just through the left side centering plug, re-install the left side fairing. This just makes it easier to guide the drill bit through all the holes, before it gets down to business.

From here you are going to repeat the same steps as you took to do the right side drilling. Create the pilot ¼" hole on the left side, then using that pilot hole use the drill rod installed on the hole saw arbor, and make the second 1 1/8" hole. At the end of the drilling you will have two holes in the perfect locations for the sliders to be installed.

After the left side holes are made, take off the left side fairing. I'll skip ahead and show you the steps to install the slider bases, and the sliders themselves.

Using the magic of time lapse you have by now had your engine bolt tapped on both ends to accept the thread size of the bolts that come with Darrens kit. (Again I will edit this after I confirm with Darren what the exact thread size is I believe the finished kits have 5/16" Coarse thread bolts.) The machine shop that did the tapping for you, will also have to turn down the shoulder on one end of the engine bolt mounting nuts. I apologize I will have to edit this also after I get the correct size from Darren. This allows the slider base to slip over the tightened engine bolt without clearance issues.

12) Re-install the engine bolt.

13) Reinstall both left and right side fairings.

14) The threaded end of the slider base stays on the outside of the bike.

Slip the bolt into the slider mounting base from the threaded end and it screws into the newly tapped and reinstalled engine bolt with a light amount of blue loctite. I'm unsure as to the torque value to apply I will edit with correct values.

Then apply some blue loctite to the slider mounting base threads, and screw on the slider itself.

Due to slight variations in bikes, you may need to install one or two washers on the inside of the plastic slider - before you screw it onto the base, to adjust the distance that the plastic slider is away from the fairing. I have two small washers installed in the right side plastic to make the slider come off the right side plastic the same amount as the left side plastic. Radar is including the washers to use, in each kit.

Do the same on both sides, and enjoy your finished project!!!

RADAR will be providing details of his kit, and it fits both 5th and 6th Gen VFRs.

The coolant bottle needs to be cut and resealed - it needs to end up looking something like this:

real cool write up - makes me think about doing something similar. Thanks for sharing. I'll have to check out Slammers how to....

If I did this - I'd want the entire rime to be the base metal only - no paint. :thumbsup:

Bump. DING!

http://media.putfile.com/Lobmod

Dude, Looks Sweet. Although with the LED's, if you installa Load Equalizer

from autolumination.com

It will slow down the flash rate. The Flasher send out more power then the LED's need so they flash fast cause too much juice.

Just a thought, looks great though. Good work

I noticed the fast flash rate as well. It might draw more attention - but the faster flash rate is actually NOT LEGAL. Flash rates are determined and set to a specific flash rate. Might draw attention from the local "Award Distribution" network....... :rolleyes:

Love the video!! Damn those lit up extenders look great. Bike sounds awesome as well. :thumbsup:

I've gone over the seams with my wifes curling iron - that is what you said to do - right Fixer?

Ok - I hit the seams with the soldering iron, and after a bit - it became smoother and easier to judge the time to heat it - and to make it flow nice.

All done.

Water tight - vibrations - bring it!!! Wasn't that hard after all. :thumbsup:

Fixer - its watertight now. I added some more of the activator and the glue - it worked great. Radar used a soldering iron on his. I might try it for fun on the spare bottle I"ve already messed up.

:thumbsup:

ken, my only fear is that the glue actually doesnt melt the plastic and over time vibration may split the seam.

Good point. Maybe I'll do the "overkill" and get the soldering iron out. thanks Gixer!!

ANyway - the patch seems to have held - but it isn't watertight. I have some very small pin holes to fill somehow. I'm goign to try to drip some of the activator in the pinholes - then a drop of glue and see if that does the trick.

Failing that - I might try a soldering iron very carefully to melt the hole together.

Ken, using a soldering iron is easy. use a flat tip about 5/32 wide (my pencil iron came with 10 different tips) let it get real hot and just drag the iron across the seam. i just had to do someting similiar od my led light for my fender eliminator. it will melt together and be watertight

Fixer - its watertight now. I added some more of the activator and the glue - it worked great. Radar used a soldering iron on his. I might try it for fun on the spare bottle I"ve already messed up.

:thumbsup:

Well - is anyone else here also more "mechanical" than "artistic" -------- like myself? I don't do well with arts and crafts sh#t!!!

I managed to cut the notch out of the tank bottle, and also cut a matching "patch" from a polyethylene scoop that fits the contour. After some dremal sanding, and tweaking the fit - I cleaned the bottle out by running water through it many times.

Got the Loctite super de dooper all plastics CA out - and went at it.

Managed to get superglue on four locations on my right hand - luckily none of them stuck to each other..... I'm a dumbass!!!

ANyway - the patch seems to have held - but it isn't watertight. I have some very small pin holes to fill somehow. I'm goign to try to drip some of the activator in the pinholes - then a drop of glue and see if that does the trick.

Failing that - I might try a soldering iron very carefully to melt the hole together.

HOnda should make these bottles from factory with the notch gone - the bottle are never going to see coolant up that high anyway. ?

EDIT - I have sealed the holes with additional activator and glue. It is watertight now. If I had to do this again, it would go a lot smoother. Additionally - I likely would have used a lighter "patch" material - something like the material found in a windshield fluid bottle - much more workable. :beer:

This might work for the 3rd Gens as well? BMV - lets cut some holes in that fairing!!!!

What are you trying to tell me??? Besides me being a light weight with the beer, did Lobster say anything about my riding???. It was a long week, honest!! Damn American drank more CDN beer than me! :goofy:

Ken, by myself, I wouldn't even attempt that!! Great looking job. Very slick! I'd give it a go, but you'd have to promise not to dremel my fender. Cbar would shudder from Down Under!! LSFD!! :P

Would this be a prototype install for 3rd gens????? I have the fairings off right now. I'll check to see where the engine mounts are for the 3rd gen.

Radar, great product! Good luck!

This website and the members rock!!! :thumbsup:

Lobster did mention something about "those that can - do, those that can't - TEACH" I'm not sure what he meant until I saw you at the bike show..... :goofy: Just kidding.

I'd gladly take a look at your bike to see if we could rig a set up on your 3rd Gen. ANd didn't you hear - CBAR has a 5th gen now - and its fender is gone. He's long over the fender apprehension.... Bwa Ha ha ha ha ha!!!

I picked up some Loctite Super Glue:

"All Plastics Guaranteed"

Loctite ALL Plastics

It was $6.00 at the local Ukrainian Tire, but the difference with this one - is that it states explicitly that it bonds polyethylene - which is what the coolant bottle is made out of. The other "Super Glues" said that they didn't work well with polyethylene.

I haven't tried it yet - but I'm hopeful that it is the ticket.. I'll report back after my attempt. :thumbsup:

Travis - can you post the actual product you suggest that will work? thanks

Go to the local hobbie shop. (Seb.'s got it). A gel type superglue. Hell I took my air compressor to it, At 30 psi, (not consistant), and layed my bike on it's side. NOT ANY PROBLEMS. I tried epoxy, silicone, shoo goo. C.A. proved out + 10 fold.

THanks Trav - I'll give that a shot!! Appreciate the heads up.

Will it work with dissimilar materials? Meaning I have Polyethylene coolant bottle - and Clear PVC hose to weld together......

CA huh? never thought of that. I'll see if I can find some here in town. I assume it melts the pieces together? I tried a torch for kicks on the trial bottle- turned the coolant bottle clear - and very malleable.

Model glue. will give that a try first before giving up! thanks. :thumbsup:

I might send you my bottle Darren!! I have the patience for "Artistic" crafts about as much as a bull has patience in a china shop...... <_< :thumbsup:

Oh come on Ken, you've drilled holes in your fairing.... drill a hole in your bottle :thumbsup:

that parts done Gary - now I have to fix that hole up..... Polyethylene doesn't like glue, adhesive, contact cement, or pretty much any other way to stick it together - except Plastic Welding. I messed up a trial bottle - and I don't want to booger up the real one.....

I might send you my bottle Darren!! I have the patience for "Artistic" crafts about as much as a bull has patience in a china shop...... <_< :thumbsup: