Bassie

I have done this on a VFR800Fi, VFR1200F and a CBR1000RR, never failed and worked fine.

If you check my gallery you will find pictures of it done on my 800Fi.

Put marbles in the tubes, cheap and easy.

It's low pressure, take a marble a tiny bit bigger and put it in.

I have done all my bikes that way, simply 1 marble per tube.

It has the advantage you can restore the original situation if needed.

No error codes, nothing.

Zbom for sale...

Hahahahaha

Do, you won't regret it. I love my Don flashed ECU....it's way beyond expectations.

Have you tried to do 10000rpm in 2nd? Mine does

Fasty of course your bike is restricted in 3rd gear. It is restricted in all 6 gears if it only makes 115 HP due to restrictions in Belgium. The 1st & 2nd gear restrictions as well as the speed limiter on US & English bikes are restricted by using the TBW to restrict how far open the throttle plates open. I assume this is also the way they restrict your bike to 115 HP.

He can have the Belgian full-power version, as there are 2 versions.

Has to do with taxes during registration.

However, instead of opening only 2/3th his may open 100%, but the 8000rpm in 1/2 is still there, as well as the poor throttle-response.

And on top a very poor fuel-mapping that makes the bike run terrible.

Don has removed all this, as such the bike should run a lot better, the 115HP restricted should have an enormous gain and handling.

The unrestricted Belgian bike should gain a lot of handling, and a lot of gain in 1/2 gears as well in 5/6th.

In total due to the new fuel-map, it should gain overall.

However, I'm speculating at the moment as my ECU hasn't come back from Don yet, should be here tomorrow.

After that I can tell for sure how much Don did or didn't do.

My expectations are set very high. As are those of my dealer who is following this all too.

the z bomb was never intended to do more than apply the third gear map to 1st and 2nd gears...it was a quick fix that does a good job

But it's very expensive for just 3 wires to do the same.

All I can say, and Don Guhl confirmed this, the Belgian version of the bike sucks.

It has a major throttle delay, what a z-bomb can't fix.

It doesn't open more then 2/3th of the throttle at all, because of the 115HP restriction, z-bomb can't fix this either.

It doesn't allow you to remove the exhaust-servo, z-bomb doesn't fix this either.

It won't allow you to go over 250KM/H, z-bomb can't fix this.

It has a limit of 8000rpm in 1st and 2nd, that a z-bomb can fix....but for Belgium it's useless because the throttle won't open further then 2/3th anyway in ALL gears!

Don't know about other versions, but on a Belgian restricted bike it's a waste of money, people are better of with a VFR800 instead, as it's faster and has the same top speed, also uses a lot less petrol.

A few months back a Belgian magazine (Motor & Toerisme) tested both bikes together and their conclusion was that the VFR1200 was not worth it's "promised" reputation as the 800 could keep up easily and even pass it.

I'm sorry, but those limitations can not be fixed with a z-bomb as they are baked in the ECU, either replace the ECU or get it flashed by Don.

I do speak about the Belgian version only, as e.g. the Dutch version doesn't have these absurd restrictions and the z-bomb could make a big difference.

I did talk to my dealer about this, and he also told me the Belgian restricted version sucks and only a changed ECU will bring the bike to life.

My dealer is awaiting my Don-flash-ECU to see if it's even better then a full-power-BE(HISS)-ECU....judging on what Don promised, it will probably be a lot better.

As my ECU is flying at the moment over the ocean towards me, I expect to be able to tell how much the Don-flash did.....and Don IS cheap for the work he does compared to a z-bomb.

She is still runing fine with the flapper and pairing mods in place.

However, I did connect the O2-sensors again, as that did make it worse.

At first it looked good, but it got worse, so I connected them again and I'm a happy rider.

I did buy me a 2011 VFR1200F that needs ECU flashing, so anybody want to buy a good 800??

One theory of mine is that one or two of my o2 eliminators (they came with the PCV) may be bad.

Your "eliminator" is nothing more then a ~330Ohm resistor, nothing more, you can measure it.

Remove it, then measure the 2 pins (normally connected to the white O2-sensor wires) and it should read about 330~1000Ohm.

These "eliminators" do nothing more then fool the ECU that an O2-sensor is present, that is it.

They do not eliminate anything.

Because if you forget them, it will make your FI-light come on and the ECU tells you something is wrong, however that also means you miss any real important problem with your bike.

You do not want the FI-light on all the time, telling you the bike has a problem

I have done this mod today and can only say this: WAUW!

It's brilliant, not only makes it the pairing mode obsolete but it also makes the bike respond well from about 2500 rpm.

I have done some serious digging and you do not need a power-commander or anything to feel the difference.

What this mod does is simple, it tell the ECU that your Lambda-sensor is connected, nothing more nothing less.

A working sensor does provide a voltage to the ECU to what the ECU responds by using some sort of mapping.

Because the mod omits the voltage, the ECU will think the sensor is broken, it knows this after about 3 minutes.

You can smell this during starting as the ECU keeps pumping extra fuel that doesn't ignite well, as such the exhaust will smell a lot after petrol.

As the ECU notices that the "sensor" doesn't respond to it's regulation it assumes it's broken and starts a special optimized combustion-program that has static parameters.

This special program is optimal, and you know it as the power is there and the response is brilliant!

It's also this program that the power-commder uses to control the injection.

However, you do not need a power-commander, the optimal program is already in the ECU and works as expected.

There is instantly a lot of extra power and torque, if you wait 3 minutes after starting.

I have done this mod on a VFR800Fi 2000 and a CBR1000RR, and on both machines the results are great.

Also, this mod makes the ECU just respond to the throttle and not to the O2/CO2-level anymore, as it thinks the sensor is broken.

Yes when you start it smells bad, but it quickly returns to normal with an improved riding experience.

Maybe you should buy her some roses???

she's no longer banging me.

Kind of gives PAIR blocking a whole new meaning.

Maybe he shouldn't have disconnected her flapper.

Why? The flapper stays in the middle the last time I checked after a few KM's.

And as said, she doesn't bang me after the mods, in fact she hardly moves at all during the ride.

Those look bad.

But I think I worded my question wrongly, are you using an after market exhaust-pipe or still the stock one?

As I'm using a DAM pipe and I was unable to ride at 3~4 rpm without hearing loads of pops and the bike had hickups at 50km/h or less.

With both modifications in place it simply runs far better, the hickups where so bad that my wife was banging me with her helmet at those speeds.

After making both mods, she's no longer banging me. I do not call that change a sugar pill.

However, the stock exhause pipe masks the pairing and flapper a great deal, people only notice it when fitting something else.

Mine:

As for the LED, that is a great idea, I will connect one to my connector somewhere this week and have a spin with it.

You never answered my question about the exhaust.

Nor did you show any pictures of the melting.

I know the paring mod works and works good in combination with the flapper-mod.

I have done it on several bikes and all bikes improved handling and low RPM riding.

Why are you twisting and turning about the pairing being the problem of your melting?

Also you never explained why the reed should separate the cylinders.

I'm far more curious to know why you insist the pairing-mod should be the problem.

Answer those and I will start measuring for you tomorrow.

My VFR800Fi (2000) didn't melt, nor did my sons CBR1000RR (2006) and both run better then ever before.

So why did yours melt?

The valve reeds don't keep the cylinders insulated, why would they?

They are there to block the combusted gases to get back into the airbox.

As the exhaust is combined at the cat anyway, why insulate them?

Each cylinder has it's own outlet valves and they are closed on turn anyway.

Have you noticed this? There is no air-pump to let air flow from the airbox to the reeds.

Also the tubes are not made for high temps or pressure.

It's my opinion that the combusted air is pushed out by the cylinder, then reach the reed (that closes because of the pressure) it follows it path to the cat.

However, because of the combined pipes at the cat, the other pipe to cylinder no2 is getting under-pressure, so it sucks in air from the pairing and that waits there until the outlet-vavle opens to press combusted air out.

That mixture goes in the direction of the reed (that closes on it's turn) and follows it's way to the cat.

Then reed 1 opens and air is sucked into exhaust 1 etc...

I really believe your blocking (either plates or before) was leaking hot combustion air into the pairing-system or passing your reed somehow and made it melt.

Maybe the reed on 1 cylinder was never placed properly and melted because of passing gases.

So in my opinion the reed malfunctioned somehow even before the blocking, but just 1 side. Maybe mounted wrongly or not sealed enough at the factory.

It happens things go wrong, that is what warranty is for when they leave the factory.

I do not believe the blocking of the pairing (when done properly) is causing it to melt.

It's my opinion that the reed is only there to prevent the pairing-tube to push exhaust-gases back into the airbox.

But because the pairing-blocking there is no function for the reeds anymore.

As such I believe it can be removed in total, reeds as well as the plumbing.

However, I didn't though about O2 being sucked in because of a leak, I thought of gases being pushed out and overheat the sealing.

Either way, it should not leak.

So.... The question that started this all, was that even thou I had removed all the hoses, the solenoid valve, and plugged the ports on top of the valve covers and air box, it did not prevent 'D' from happening because one of the reed valves under the port on the valve cover failed causing an exhaust leak in between cylinders. Does this leak cause a big problem? Did the valve seat 'melt' because the PAIR was disabled stopping any air flow ever? Is the only true way to prevent failure removing the reed valve and blocking the ports?

I got it now, sorry was looking at a wrong angle related to your problem.

I have done some digging and I think the reason it's melting is because one of your blocking plates is leaking.

Because if it is leaking gasses will pass from the exhaust and heat up the aluminum plate, so hot that it could melt the reed.

That means your blocking isn't done properly, ergo you have to seal the leak.

When there is no leak the plate isn't heating up and the reed shouldn't be heated or do anything at all.

In fact, when you mounted the plates, you could have removed the reed in total in my opinion, but I just did the marble trick.

The melting isn't caused by the disabling of the pair system, but by a failure (leak) of your attempt to disable the system.

That is what I found by reading others that report the same happening and it looks to be the case.

As for the effect under power, the paring-system has a major effect under power, but you won't notice with a stock exhaust as it masks it.

The riding comfort between 3000~4000rpm completely changed after blocking it.

To help you a bit:

http://www.moccsplace.com/images/pair/pair1.htm

http://johnny.chadda.se/article/pair-and-flapper-mod-with-bonus-snorkel-mod-for-vfr/

http://www.m109riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68735

http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/engine/vtx-1800-desmog/

Everybody is saying the system is rubbish and not doing anything but make sure it meets te sniffers demands.

Want me to give to a load more pages?

The pairing and flapper serve no purpose, none at all. Some do explain it a bit like your believe, but all remove it.

If you talk to bike-engineers, they all tell you it's useless crap.

No there are no easier ways to do it, as you have to control the exhaust to to make it run well.

But hey, don't believe me, trust your autoshop stuff, I don't care.

Or do you believe the flapper has a function too? It's just to pass the noise rules at about 5000 RPM.

Heck in Germany Porsche called their 1st gear "Gelände" meaning terrain-gear, just to make sure they where able to pass sound tests in third and not the second gear as everybody else.

Do you really believe pairing is good for the environment? I bet you think solar-panels are good too right?

It's just a fraud to pass regulations, nothing else. But hey, everybody is free to believe what they want.

If you think it's a good system, well why do you block it???

BTW carburator cars have cats for years and years, they never needed pairing.

Yet currently the injection engines need it, while their combustion is far better then ever before.

It's fraud.

The pairing system on a VFR (and other Injection bikes) consist only of 3 tubes and a valve.

The only thing is does is put clean air in the exhaust at low RPM to fool the sniffers.

It's no more complicated then this:

It can simply be removed in total and blocked at 3 points, 2x at the exhaust where you put the blocking plates.

And 1x at the airbox before it goes to the pairing-valve.

As for leaking a bit near the exhaust, that could happen, as it gets hot there, it's the exhaust.

However I would close it, use some closing material to seal it else the O2 sensor still (may) think the mixture isn't right.

The pairing system isn't useful, it's just a major fraud to pass the CO2-maffia rules, nothing more.

As you can't optimize a bike that has optimal burning of fuels, that generates CO2 as optimal combustion is maximal CO2 (it's a bit more complicated but still).

However the CO2-maffia turned CO2 into a bad thing, as such you need more O2 in your gases, what better way to do it then simply inject O2 in the exhaust itself?

And because they do it before the cat it mixes perfectly and the rules of less CO2 compared to O2 is met.

It really has no other meaning then that.

Have fun: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiler-combustion-efficiency-d_271.html

The real bad gas is CO, that kills people, but they never talk about that.

I presume you mean the tubes coming from the airbox and goto the cylinder-covers.

They are there to let (clean) air in and out of the oil-circuit.

If those are leaking they could (in theory) put dirt in your oil.

I assume you mean those, else show a picture of the tubes you are talking about.

The 2 tubes that goto the cylinders are to give air under the cover, you should not block those, but they have to be good.

So if they leak you better replace them, as it could lead to dirt in your oil.

As for the burning of leftovers, that is a nice story to hide their CO2 real emission.

It also messes with your CO2 sensor making the computer believe the mixture isn't right, won't show with the standard exhaust but does when you have an after market.

Sorry to say, but it does nothing but fool the CO2 sniffers.

The reed tubes normally feed the exhaust with extra air, it simply get sucked in there, this to fool sniffers of the CO2-maffia that the bike is cleaner then it really is.

And it's coming from the airbox via the pairing-valve.

In theory if the pairing-vavle is open and the tubes are leaking (not airtight) you could suck dirty air into the air intake of the cylinders.

That would be bad as it bypasses the air-filter.

I suggest you remove the paring-valve and the 3 tubes that connect to it, and simply block the connection at the airbox.

As you do use blocking plates, there is no need to keep the system installed and can be removed in total.

Well, I put the IDLE back to 1200. For some reason, [when I set the Idle to 1800] the bike would hang at 3000 RPMs in I think 2nd or 3rd with no throttle input. I guess that little extra air, the fuel mapping, the ECU, FI, etc. all conspire to just not like a 1800 Idle.

So - I put it back down to stock 1200 and it rides perfectly now. Well it rides as it was designed. So my 12 page thread turns out to be what everyone told me - a waste of time! :)

I can take a beating. At least I know now and can let things be.

Little question, did you remove valve-pairing and flapper?

In short, did you remove the CO2-maffia rubbish that kills the real handling of the bike?

As idle and low speed problems are typical a problem of Valve-pairing-system (that you want to remove/kill) and Flapper (that you also want to kill).

When you do that, you end up with a new bike that rides a 1000x times better then stock.

And fun part, it costs only 5 cents to do it in a screw (flapper vacume-tube close) and 5 cents pairing (marbles to block it.)

This crap is on all new bikes, not just the VFR's. Remove the CO2 maffia crap and it runs far better then anything you tried so far

Good to know my videos are still out there helping folks even though I've moved onto BMWs...

Anyway, the engine braking was one of my FAVOURITE things about my VFR. I used to love slamming it down a gear from high revs and just letting the bike slow me down while roaring its head off. *Especially* in traffic! The sound of a VFR with aftermarket pipes on the overrun is something I will miss forever.

Even after ten years, my 2002 VFR800 still turned heads with its fat baby-eight exhaust note. If only the fuel injection wasn't so wonky...

Also worth pointing out that I believe Ducati controls engine braking in the new Panigale motor by keeping the valves open on the overrun (I think it was exhaust valves). Doesn't help with the VFR of course, but people have solutions to the problem out there.

I'm with you, I love the engine-breake too, won't trade it for any other bike because of that.

And my wife keeps shouting: You brake far too late to be normal!

I would connect it to the ignition-switch and not the battery, then you don't have to worry about the idle-draw.