zRoYz

I suppose I should update this sometime : )

Roy did you get the pics of the spacers I sent you? I was having problems with attachments at the time, but forgot to check in with you after I sent the emails off.

Smithy will knock the axle spacers out for you, just get a pair of OEM ones from a wrecker (I paid $5 for a pair, cheapest Ti you'll ever find) and mail them to his place of work at Chester Hill.

I've got a template for the one-piece rotor spacers, am probably going to make them with a jig saw and a drillpress. Don't make the 10 individual ones like we did, they are too fiddly to fit.

Yep got pics thanks :-)

The spacers are a no brainer & I was going to make disk spacers one peice, I'm looking at alloy sheet & just get lazer cut.

Axle spacers are also alloy standard & I know a small lathe close buy to make them.

Again everything is on hold, because there is a 99% chance there wil be a CBR1000RR in my garage to turn into a track bike, so either the VTEC or KR is being sold & doesn't look like anyone buying VTEC'S secondhand at moment so might have to let KR go due to much lower price tag (I have no choice garage just wont fit 3 bikes)

The forks are for the KR750, I have pletty of room to fit clip-on under triple as I want a lower position. If I end up fitting F4I body work then clearence is even less a issue.

OK! I will get an update this week (not much as of right now, but a bit going on in the background that should come to fruition by midweek).

Wakey, wakey that post above said update midweek dated 25th March zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

My 05 R1 forks, calipers (bing gold fitting ones), axle, rotors have arrived so have started playing as you do (well maybe not phantom) & have started to look what clip-on I could fit for the least amout of $$. I do know that at most there will only be 5mm of fork leg that sticks through top 954 triple clamp.

I just need to find a lathe I can use to make rotor, axle spacers :thumbsup:

Hobie1dog :thumbsup:

On forks, RC51 stuff has gone through the roof since I did my VTEC. I wanted forks for my 750 & loking at the phantoms write up & doing measurements on how I like bike set up 05 R1 front end will still let me mount clipons above top triple clamp & bonus radial brakes.

The late model R1 stuff is also hard to obtain as not many sets come up on Ebay, but GSXR750 forks seem to be cheaper & lots more than everything else so if using low mount clipons then they might be a good option for $$.

Hobie1dog I would like to ask some questions & add some opinion if you don't mind.

Do you think the oil cooler will have an effective airflow across face with that set up?

I still don't like the lights that much but then again you would only see them front on, but some neat holes cut out with hole saw in front section would look much better with those lights. I would make a alloy insert to go into cut out hole & then have those round lights sticking through them (same type of look as 12v down lights in a ceiling).

Why have you used a gen3 tank, for better lines or does the rear tail your using line up better on it, I can understand doing it for a rc30 or 45 rep but for F4I I would think you would have to mod rear body work in a major way to fit any tank.

I think the little things are what make a bike look good & the instruments for me need to fill the inside of body work more due to ugly fibre look from body work & all the bkt's etc. I would lose the ram mount & make a fill panel to mount it on & fill that space, plastic, light alloy sheet, etc.

Also I'm a bit lot on the differance between thr F4I tail sections, I will have to go with the pillion seat set up (wife has decided coming for rides as a pillion is a good idea again doh) so might look for a complete rear, do you have any idea what year model may graft in best when looking at subframe you have?

I have a 05 R1 front end on it's way to me so the parts gathering for me is starting to happen :-)

Keep up the good work & keep the posts coming :thumbsup:

Starting to do sub frame :thumbsup:

Please don't take this the wrong way because your doing a great job, but those lights look fugly & here in AUS there is no way in hell the law would let that install pass as head lights. It would look so much better if you could find a way to flush mount them buy glassing in those holes & cuting out just the shape of lights & bring them more forward if poss. I think the lights closed in & sticking out just a little will help keep the law away & look much cleaner. Round lights prob would be better to do that with but just an idea, please keep up the good work.

Hobie1dog as I said in your last thread, thankyou I've been wanting to do this for a year but couldn't find F4I race glass in AUS & didn't want to buy os incase no work.

Rear single seat setup if you have a friend who has an F4I take measurements off there rear sub frame & make one with mount points to suit VFR. You only really have to worry about mounting points & seat pad location as you can just run single bars back for tail to hold lights due to never going to have a pillion so strength not needed there just at mount points & seat location.

So more or less going on pic above you don't need major strength after duct tail mounting bolt just behind seat pad, after after that point a single box section peice either side would be more than enough to hold lights (If duct tail strong enough using undertail as well then you may not even need to extend sub frame past the side mount point).

tok tokkie I'm so happy your ok after reading to the end of your story & nearly crying. I'm a tool maker by trade but don't have the access to machine tools anymore so know the effort you have put into your viffer & to even machine jig parts to inspect measurements is out standing. To lose such a labor of luv before you truly got to find the new setup limits is cruel.

Thank you for sharing your work log & I know whatever bike you replace viffer with will be improved with the skills you have shown

I didn't use any spacers/circlips on my 5th gen and never noticed any interference issues with the radiator.

Swiffer had to curve his radiator on his 4th gen, but I don't know of any problems with the 5th/6th gen.

6th Gen

8. Slide 4mm thick custom spacer onto lower triple clamp & install RC51 lower bearing on top. This is needed so lower triple clears oil cooler mounts on fairing frame, you can gain more clearance by moving oil cooler forward 5-10mm & redrilling some mount holes but only needed if still fouling oil cooler mounting bolt heads. You still need spacer to make sure you clear fixed position fairing mounts.

These are the mounting tabs which the 6th Gen oil cooler bolts to.

Yes the forum has lost allot of stuff due to the problems, great stuff veefer800canuck

Just a little update on my setup, I had my SP1 forks valving adjusted to suit 5 weight oil (standard is 8) & had the dumb built in 10mm of static sag before forks are even loaded the SP1 forks have fixed (with my preloads would all the way in I could still only get 40mm static). The 9.5 standard springs are perfect for my weight, the static is just a design fault within the forks as the froks where designed by 2 different eng, 1 did valving, the other did the rest so somewhere along the line they didn't really match each others data.

Did it make a difference will be the question, well if you think the SP1 forks standard make a big difference mine now are again another level up from that :thumbsup:

I now have 35mm static sag with just 1 position preload & the hyd responce is so good now the front feels like it is sucking the tar out of the road. It also helped I found a suspension guy who really knows his stuff & if your not happy he will keep doing adjustments till you are happy at no extra cost, he will even go out to the track with you to further sort things at no extra cost.

Here's a different version of the Thurn mirrors:

Thurn markets these ones mirrors as 6th gen mirrors and the ones veefer800canuck posted as 5th gen mirrors. Of course, there's no reason why you could put either set on the 5th or 6th gens since the stock mirrors are compatible.

How difficult is it to wire them?

Easy as eating pie :thumbsup:

Each blinker only has 2 wires & being lights it doesn't matter which way you connect both wires -/+ so long as you connect both. The normal blinker will have both wires going into a lug you simply cut lug off bike wiring & connect new blinker wires to wires you just removed from bike wiring lug. You can even be a pro & get a new male/female connector from your local electronics store. I would say you would also need to drill a hole in your fairing to allow wiring to pass through as normal mirrors have no wiring. If for some reason blinker lights need to be wired correctly you can work out the neutral easy enough because it will be same color wire both sides.

Now I'm off to the garage to Roy-proof it :goofy:

That's easy just leave Wild Turkey outside & I'll never get to the garage :goofy:

It's ok I'm going over to his garage & taking it to finish & ride, then in about another 4 years I'll put it back into his garage & he will never be the wiser. Except he will think elfs did him a favour :P

Phantom we are doing another track day EC the 13th Jan 07 do you want to pay for that one & not show like the last two, or was it you just didn't show because your purple tights were in the wash :goofy:

WOLF WOLF nice

AB look at pic there is a remote res for the rear shock so looks like that's been done :biggrin:

I haven't yet seen (maybe because I'm not looking hard enough) why the 954 upper triple clamp is used. Does the RC51 upper not work?

It all comes down to fork unloaded factory length, not all forks are same length & the standard VFR forks are longer than most. The reason for 954 upper triple clamp is gullwing shape which allows for fitment of clip-on above top triple clamp due to lower mounting position where as standard RC51 top triple doesn't have this. In the mods section on this site it's all explained in detail as others not me pioneered this setup.

Good info. Do you use your bike as your daily commuter or is it strictly a fun bike? Just wondering as I have wanted to do the SP1 route, but I don't want to take away from the city bike that it is most of the time.

:blink:

I use my bike for fun, but this setup with adjustments to suit your riding style will only improve things for any type of riding. The reason the VFR's suspension can have so many rake angle etc adjustments is because from factory it's setup as such a neutral steering bike, it's just a matter of finding the adjustments to suit your style of riding & what you like. It takes 10-15 minutes to adjust forks through triple clamps or stick another shim in rear shock so adjustments are endless. The bigest improvemet with front end comes from compression adjustment which standard forks don't have.

Hehe I feel there may be another local FE mod coming soon... Roy has imported this new virus called RC51 and everyone seems to be catching it! :salesman:

At this rate the October track day will see 3 or 4 of them...

Maybe I should have convinced SWMBO that we did not need a bigger house, because I need a bling front end on my bike :D

You don't need one your to fast now, us old farts need al the help we can get.

Plus you have a track bike to play on with more ground clearance than before, but it does need a wash which is your department :P

Thanks for that listing. I have just started doing this for my 5th gen so this helps plenty (I have collected everything on VFRD that I have seen on this topic)

1. Veefer800Canuck did not need such a thick spacer under the lower stem bearing (just a large circlip) He has a 5th gen. I assume there is a slight difference on a 6th gen necessetating the slightly thicker spacer.

2. Veefer used the existing tapped holes in the lower triple for the steering stops. He screwed 8mm (?) cap screws into them. It is interesting that you did not need to do this. What finally stops the forks turning any further (what hits what?). Or do you simply not allow it to go to full physical lock & leave it at that?

1. I haven't done a 5th gen but my problem was due to lower triple clamp RC51 SP1 would hit the oiler cooler steel mounts on fairing frame, which restricted bar movement. By adding the 4mm spacer as part of lower triple ass there is no hassel with things moving or clip falling out. From memory Veefer800Canuck added clips mainly to add thickness due to thiner bearing height with bearings he used compaired to standard VFR bearings. I just used standard RC51 SP1 bearings. If I didn't need to clear oil cooler mounts no spacer would be needed at all.

2. On the 6th gen full lock either side will hit radiator hose first before instruments so I don't really feel the need to fit steering stops, I just have clip-ons adjusted that way, radiator hose when bike running will swell if anything with pressure so it's not like it's going to squash. The lock to lock is really only a issue doing U turns & just incase there is give I have a little rubber pad stuck on fairing insert where levers might hit if ever they want to. If I crash well the bike is going to be stuffed anyway so extra damage is a no brainer to me with no stops fitted. Before you ask my insurance company knows about new front end & had no problem with it, infact they raised my cover due to extra value

Here you can see the radiator hose which works like steering stops

Here you can see hose from top

This is clip-on veiw, you can see rubber pad on right & it wouldn't even be needed if Pazzo lever didn't stick out further than standard RC51 lever by 10-15mm (but I like the Pazzo's). The internal fairing top plastic covers fit no problem I just don't bother with them due to always pulling things apart (just incase some 6th gen person asks)

I have been asked what I did to fit RC51 (SP1) forks to my VTEC so thought it was better to do little write up for the masses.

All the info you need is already here on VFRD but due to no specific write up for a VTEC I list parts I used & what I did. For major detail read all the other threads because that’s where all my info came from.

There are pics thoughout site which show what to do so no real need to post more of the same :P

Parts I used:

1. RC51 SP1 forks (not SP2)

2. RC51 Brake Calipers

3. RC51 SP1 Lower Triple Clamp (not SP2)

4. RC51 Axle

5. RC51 Wheel Spacers

6. RC51 Wheel

7. RC51 Rotors

8. RC51 Master Cylinder

9. RC51 CF Front Guard

10. RC51 Head Bearings

11. CBR954 Top Triple Clamp

12. CBR929 Hellibars

13. Braided Brake Lines Front (any kit long enough will do I used VFR750 kit)

14. Braided Brake Lines Rear (had made 1200mm long x2)

15. Custom Spacer 4mm thick to sit between Lower Triple Clamp & Lower Head Bearing (any eng shop can make it on a lathe)

16. 7.5W Race Fork Oil

Process to install:

1. Remove all brake fluid from bike; you really do need a vacuum bleeder for this to remove all fluid, but can be done messy way.

2. Remove standard front braking system, including lines that connect to blocks both sides of frame. If your going to leave hard lines that travel from front to back of bike either seal off with plug or zip tie small plastic bag over ends to keep out road grit.

3. Remove standard calipers, wheel, guard , clip-ons & fork tubes.

4. Remove standard upper lower triple clamps.

5. Remove standard head bearing outer race from frame (there is cut away in frame to allow you to tap out with punch).

6. Install RC51 head bearing outer race into frame top & bottom, I just use copper pipe to press into place hitting with hammer. You need to be very careful & make sure outer race is going in as square as possible & not hit with such force like you’re driving in a nail. You will know when seated due to thud feel felt through copper pipe.

7. Cut off RC51 SP1 lower triple steering stops.

8. Slide 4mm thick custom spacer onto lower triple clamp & install RC51 lower bearing on top. This is needed so lower triple clears oil cooler mounts on fairing frame, you can gain more clearance by moving oil cooler forward 5-10mm & redrilling some mount holes but only needed if still fouling oil cooler mounting bolt heads. You still need spacer to make sure you clear fixed position fairing mounts.

9. Install RC51 SP1 lower triple & 954 upper triple clamps, don’t apply grease yet if you need to fit steering stops due to test fit needed to mark there position on lower triple clamp.

10. Slide RC51 SP1 forks through triple clamps until fork length above 954 triple clamp & height of Hellibar fork clamp, ball park for fork position to make up for trail change (ball park measurement from bottom of frame to centre axel is 530mm standard forks, 510-515mm RC51 SP1 forks).

11. Install Hellibars with standard clutch & RC51 brake master cylinders to setup position for turning circle. Mark lower triple at this point for new steering stops if needed (I haven’t done steering stops; don’t need them & info on how to do is in other write ups).

12. If not doing steering triple clamp stops you then fit new brake lines etc, if you are you need to take apart again & then reassemble again with grease (note if your not doing stops you should apply grease step 9)

13. Fit guard, calipers, braided brake lines etc so front end is complete & front brakes are now not linked so add fluid & bleed.

14. You now have to address rear brake & I just used 2x 1200mm braided lines linked from standard master cylinder to rear standard caliper so all pistons are engaged. I found feel to be fine once I got used to it.

To adjust suspension for feel & turn in is a individual preference from person to person but with raising rear ride height to lowering front triple clamps through forks it’s easy to find the setup you want. At moment my bike has 3mm height raised at rear shock & top of RC51 SP1 forks are 40mm above 954 top triple clamp (VFR base fig is 1mm raised at shock = 3.4mm raised ride height rear)

I like, but wouldn't do to my bike because don't think free adds for anybody belong on my ride except one that might make me some money :-)

I was thinking maybe puting add like "pillion rides for beer"

Yes was looking for this thread glade it's back :beer:

I have also found that any aftermarket shock that is made or comes off a VFR750 is straight bolt in replacement for VTEC (the standard 750 shock no good due to preload adjustment stem & the VTEC shock is better anyway).

VTEC shock length standard is 317.5mm

VFR750 shock length is 320mm

1mm extra added to shock length on all VFR'S works out to be about 3.3mm more ride hight rear, so 2.5mm difference is about what people shim there shock anyway.

SAFE-T one word "PERFECT"

:goofy:

Quick release mount if you want to remove seat & keep lower mount hight is not real hard & there is 2 ways to do it, 1 you need lath & will look trick, the other alittle more back yard.

Extend grab handle bolts with custom made bolts that have shaft above thread, then smaller short shaft above that with hole drilled for locking pin (use hex mat then no problem tightening bolts into handle). These all are same length, you then have plate that has holes lined up with the 4 handle bar pins & push it on & lock down with quick release pins (use o-rings between pin & plate to stop rattle). Box mount just mounts to plate.

Want to remove seat just pull out quick release pins.

Back yard way is to weld a longer bolt ontop of handle bolt & use nuts to adjust hight (you lock 2 together they don't move) & drill hole for Quick release pin.

If box mount above pins then space up alittle above lock plate you made to gain room to install lock pins (you would only need 10mm max if that's the case).

In words something like this:

TURNED THREAD HANDLE MOUNT/HEX BAR/8MM TURNED PIN/CROSS DRILLED HOLE IN PIN TO LOCK BOX MOUNTING PLATE

other people maybe diff but i've found 10 weight & 30-35mm static sag is spot on, but my fork springs had to be upgraded.

its ok to add spacers to standard springs but you need to make sure your still using 2/3rds of travel or front will be to stiff & ride every bump.

Lower forks in tripple clamps & raise rear ride hight 12mm, bloody hell how fast do you want your bike to steer. I feel this is not a good thing as it really is to much & upsets balance of bike way to much from design (with link brakes your rear will lock up way to much).

I think lowering forks in tripple clamps is bad for 1 main reason ground clearance, I scrap RHS lower link pipe with reworked standard suspenion which has rear raised 6mm & there is a trade off even there due to less loading rear I spin up the rear wheel alot more.

Due to so much front loading with your mods you would have to do springs & increase fork oil to 15 weight to cope. (fitting the right profile tyre will also speed up steering like a pilot race or diablo corsa)

The rear shock is weakest link in system even when reworked because being a emulsion unit, the problems with temperature and cavitation related dramas will always exist. (I'm just about to upgrade to a penske 3 clicker & yes I know its not a cheep mod)