zRoYz

Roy, long time no post! I realize it's winter down there now, do you guys get much snow?

I' curious to know how the front end's holding up, if you still love it, etc?

:idea3:

Excuse me I have been caught up of late playing at the track with my CBR1000RR which takes allot of my time, we only get snow in 2 places whole of Australia so you can ride all year round here.

Because it has been taking up allot of my time I'll post some pics of the CBR1000RR which I'm always adding parts too as you do.

Since this pic I have removed the Ohlins ttx shock as I didn't like it & fitted a WP shock & front rotors have been upgraded to 320mm Galfers (04/05 standard are 310mm)

CBRTRACK.jpg

EC19th.jpg

The VFR1 is still going strong & the R1 front end has never let me down, in fact the brakes & handling are so good there isn't anything I can do to improve it. I did have some 6 pot R1 calipers to fit but didn't bother due to the bike already will out brake the tire & I use race rubber for a front tire. Nothing upsets the front end pot holes, bumps, ripples, dirt I have never had one front end slide since the install & the best part is even with so many adjustments since finding a setting I like there hasn't been any need to add clicks of anything.

It's strange with the talk of the "maybe" new V5 or whatever VFR because the only improvement for me would be the few extra hp, but unless I'm doing 200kph+ I see no need for that. I have fitted the Motard headers which made a great improvement on smoothing out power delivery & you don't even notice VTEC except for the induction noise so driving out of turns is much smoother (dyno map bellow).

Some updated pics.

VFRdesktop.jpg

VFR1desktop.jpg

ROYZ_POWER_TORQUE_RPM.JPG

ROYZ_POWER_TIME.JPG

Nut shell: for everyday riding, touring, full sports riding, pillion comfort there is no better bike, I can do 2500kms of twisty mountain roads in 3 days & still dance a jig at the end & I'm no spring Chicken :unsure:

mods no need to delete anything, I luv utes just as much as bikes :fing02:

I really like the new Ford performance utes about to be released here in AUS this one is the V8 we also get a turbo six.

The grey is a Honda color but they use it on there cars well MX-5 here in AUS anyway.

MX-5 - isn't that a Mazda? :goofy:

Hehehe... I think you might have meant to write S2000, but something else popped into your mind for some strange reason? :P

BTW that's a great pic of you on it before it went silver; looks like you're pulling it up and over out of T2 for T3 at Eastern Creek?

Well my mistake as yes the mx is a mazda & the grey is a mazda color, I think I was thinking about keeping it :warranty:

Also correct that is between T2 & T3 at EC I have the complete sequence.

No pics of bike pick up due to my camera hit a brick wall after returned to me in a none working order by my daughter, must learn to control my temper (other pics taken by a friend without a temper hehe)

The grey is a Honda color but they use it on there cars well MX-5 here in AUS anyway.

AB he is picking up Saturday 15th.

I have all my plastics off the bike right now working on them. How hard was it to mold that one piece tail section? That looks really good. I may be intrested in doing it myself, so how did you do that?

I didn't do it myself let Mr plastic welder do it, the trick is to leave the normal mounting screws in & then weld up the joins so there is good strength to avoid cracking. The rear that mounts above tail lights is also welded in. The only part you don't weld is lower part that is mounted as a part of tail light because you need that adjustment & flex to install the blinkers. The complete tail mounts onto bike sliding in from rear without any problem.

If guy who bought bike didn't have 954 mirrors in his parts bin we would use 2000 mirrors but the cost of them new is allot more than mounting blocks for the 954 ones he has.

I was asked for some pics & the rule is everything is worthless without them so here they are.

Story: My 4th gen track bike was replaced with a CBR1000RR & because I have also revamped my VTEC & deal with wife was new track bike sell old one I had to sell my 4th gen. Well the new owner wanted some things done & I agreed to do them so mods & pics bellow.

Full respray & rear tail made into a one piece unit.

R/R rewired to front of bike mounted lower triple clamp for cooling reasons.

F4I forks revalved with .95kg springs.

F4I brakes.

F41 fender.

VTEC triple clamps.

VTEC clipons.

Pazzo levers.

Braided lines front/rear.

Hugger.

Penske 2 clicker shock (height adjustable).

K&N filter.

Staintune.

Things still to fit:

954 mirrors (mounting blocks being machined).

Rear sets gold (mounting plates being machined)

Fit fairing piece behind front wheel (waiting for dzus fasteners)

Before rework:

EC2_5.jpg

After:

VFR750 082.jpg

VFR750 068.jpg

VFR750 058.jpg

Yes the pool needs work but can't be bothered as to buzzy working on bikes :-) & my lab is only 6 months old so he likes to chew everything.

Also you ozvfr members don't tell you know who (badly kept secret) I posted pics here for you all to see hehe

Ok somewhere to start,

I'm just going to go ball park as somewhere to start.

Tyres use these pressures 38psi rear & 36psi front & make sure you set these pressures when tyre cold.

If you look in tool kit you will see a tool that is curved with a small notch there are 2 like this the small one is for rear shock preload (spring tension) the large one is for adjusting rear hub for chain tension. Now if you look rear of bike at top of shock you will see a ring that has notches that sit in lugs on shock body & the notches on ring are at different levels that is the preload adjuster. If you use tool & turn ring you can add preload or decrease preload to your liking, higher notches add more & lower decrease preload. You will need a friend to help measure rear sag because you need to be sitting on bike to measure put bike on center stand & use a vertical line above rear wheel & measure. Use say hub axle edge as one point & stick a piece of tape on exhaust for the other so you can make a measurement (you need 2 points to make any measurement). Rear wheel off ground measure distance between your points & write it down then take bike off center stand & sit on it with feet on pegs (do next to a tree or wall & use one hand to support you & bike) friend then takes another measurement between the same 2 points as before. The difference between these 2 points should be 25-35mm, closer to 35mm if you like a softer ride & to adjust use preload ring increase/decrease.

Now on the bottom of shock LHS of bike you will see a screw that can be turned with a flat blade screw driver (its just above triangle looking plate) that is rebound adjustment & you will see arrow markings pointing to H (harder) & S (softer) now its very hard to explain effect this has but in a nut shell it helps stop bounce & resists spring return (slows it down so doesn't go up/down like a bouncy ball). I suggest you set mid point with this setting & to do that wind it with no force (will turn to a stop both ways) in the S direction & once stops turning count the turns it takes to go in the H direction until it stops again & then turn back to the S direction 1/2 that distance. DON'T USE FORCE LIKE YOUR DOING UP A BOLT IT IS A CONTROL VALVE. Now go for a ride & if still bouncy add 1/4 turn more in H direction & then ride some more & add more if needed or go in S direction if you feel its to hard.

I won't go into fork setting as your not complaining about them but above is enough info to try some things yourself to see if you can sort your problem but the VFR will feel allot different in the rear to a busa so it also could be your still adjusting to difference in feel.

Was wondering if you could give some suspension advice?

The problem is when i ride the 08 vfr in twisty stuff i feel every bump and the back end feels light and seems like it wants to get loose. To the point where i have lost a bit of confidence in it. I don't know how to adjust suspension or anything :beer:

what do you think could be the problem and how do i fix it.

any advice appreciated, thanks

i'm 6"3 and weigh 90 kg 198 pounds i think :unsure:

:thumbsup:

Now this is a hard one because going on your size & weight plus the fact you sald you know nothing about suspension so it is still probably on factory settings I would think your rear would be a bit bouncy (soft).

When was the last time you inspected tyre pressures front/back?

If its an 08 which means you bought it new maybe your dealer may help you out with adjustment setings (this normally is unlikely) I would find a suspension tuner in your area & go have a chat, normally they will help you out with sag settings & explaining things for nothing but if you go to www.ozvfr.net as I see you live WA there maybe a member there willing to come help you out.

If you have some mechanical aptitude I can explain adjustments but allot easier to be shown.

No pics, no reality ! :rolleyes:

Oh - you mean:

Ok taken with phone camera, but forgot to add solo seat cowl.

Before its said, foot pegs will be changed because there is going to be rear sets fitted.

It also has 954 mirrors to be fitted & to add to parts list braided lines front back, high rise staintune, K&N filter.

The ignition was also replaced with a 954 item due to standard 750 ignition barrel was smaller & looked dumb in triple clamp + has a nicer key haha & yes the same fuel cap off 954 was used so same key.

Pics here http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=40110

Why bother sending forks away to spend more money on a project that will never be finished, your like a female with a shoe collection :rolleyes:

On another note my X track VFR750 restore for new owner is finished & will post some pics when I get some as my camera died (don't lend camera to daughters)

Ozvfr members don't tell owner I posted pics when I do as he doesn't come here & wants to show it off first but bugger him I did all the work.

Complete new paint including wheels (tail has been welded to a one piece item no ugly joins)

F4I front end.

Penske shock.

Pazo levers.

R/R rewired to front of bike.

Duel horns.

Hugger.

New grips.

Replaced throttle cables.

Custom exhaust shield.

Lets see took me 2 months doing now & then at night in garage & you have been at it now for how many years :P

Hey rock on brother! Blue oval all the way - love that toolbox mate it must have cost a fortune. I sure hope you own the accompanying BF or BA series FPV, XR8, or XR6 turbo as well! Personally I have a BFII XR6T which is just the ducks guts.

I only have the BF XR6 which is my work transport & track bike transport.

If you go to Motard site you will still see pic of nice polished finish with a small note they now come painted grey which when I asked why the change was informed they got to many complaints about the headers pitting due to polished finish. I was told since they started just spraying them with paint they haven't had a complaint but I wish you could choose as I don't mind cleaning my bike & think the UK guys just lazy.

No salt on Aussie roads in winter, Roy!

Yes I know but they don't give you the option for polished & there is noway in Hell I'm going to polish them so grey it is, I was thinking about getting them coated but as there st/st & won't rust plus the cost factor I decided against it (All my spare $$ goes on tyres & track time for the CBR1000RR).

Sorry have been slack lately with my posting.

Well get your act together and post away, there's an AC that's been given approval to fix, tho haggling over price, and then I need to make a visit to the OBH

When they stop haggling give me a call. Will talk about your bike when the other 750 leaves in the next week or so (the shock I did have for it I sent back due to marks on shaft, but it seems to now be lost in the post ffs)

Nice Mods...

Any feedback on the Motad header?

regards,

There's a group buy stirring up for the headers purchase. Should would like some feedback from you on fitment, loundness, etc.

regards.

Sorry have been slack lately with my posting.

The Motard headers fit was perfect & for me to say that being a X fitter is for real. I have fitted 2x sets & each set bolted up without me having to use any force what so ever to bend something to line up or fit.

The sound is great not to over the top & not that much louder than aftermarket cans but with more note & crackle. The effect on my bike was very noticeable in power delivery because when you open the throttle there is power with no hesitation at all until red line & on/off throttle there is no jumpy feeling you tend to get every now & then. I don't think they would be much different from 98 headers with the main advantage being no CAT.

They have the holes for the 02 sensors & bkt for the center stand so they really are just bolt up & go, the only thing I didn't like that much was the finish which is smooth but just a painted finish over the ST/ST. If you go to Motard site you will still see pic of nice polished finish with a small note they now come painted grey which when I asked why the change was informed they got to many complaints about the headers pitting due to polished finish. I was told since they started just spraying them with paint they haven't had a complaint but I wish you could choose as I don't mind cleaning my bike & think the UK guys just lazy.

I will be having a new map on dyno done sometime in March so will post results when done as for the powers to be in AUS they think a cat has four legs with fur & wouldn't know if not installed.

We have a mate with an RC51 front end on his SuperBlackbird (CBR1100XX)... actually we have two mates with that combo...

Yep we do & I installed them all except AB's but think sent him so many how too emails you could say I helped with that install as well.

List:

My VFR vtec installed SP1 front end.

BB (AQ) installed SP1 front end.

Sold my SP1 front end & installed on BB (Birdman)

My VFR vtec installed R1 front end.

Kirby VFR vtec installed SP2 front end.

My sold VFR750 installed F4I front end.

VFR800 (Beasty) installed my vtec front end (simple upgrade to 43mm forks from standard 41mm).

I'm trying to stay out of my garage for awhile & haven't even had time to install my HIDS on my vtec :-( Kirby bike has worn me out for awhile as was alittle more than just front end with full valve service & 100 other things to a bike that a mechanical numpty doesn't notice. I did however just install new chain & sprockets on my bike & the Blue chain looks bling hehe, yes I'm a blue freak.

I can just taste all those Turkeys I'm going to make Kirby buy me at SinS (summer in the snowy) ride next week because he is going to be so happy he wont know he is buying them, the Motard headers with Staintunes sound mean really mean.

Missed this due to moving house at the time (although I knew you'd gotten it all together), what can I say, another excellent job!

I love the blue on blue combo and the blue front wheel really sets off the hardware. Normally it's lost in the black front wheel.

Good to hear it rides so well too :thumbsup:

Some questions, of course.

I take it you still have the Convertibars on it?

Are 929 bars an option with the SP1 top triple?

With the SP1 top triple (and the forks correspondingly raised), have you got the same front ride height as with the SP1 forks?

Yes I used Convertibars, they did cause a small problem with ride height I wanted as the clamp fouled on fork as they start to tapper out to a larger dia. That was with original 954 top triple, which is reason I changed to the SP1 top triple which allowed forks with Convertibar clamp to slide up to height I required.

I have same ride height I used with SP1 setup with 5mm of fork showing above SP1 top triple, 954 bars I think would be to low & if you used 954 top triple you still would only have about 20mm of fork to mount clipons above top triple so with R1 forks you need to mount clipons bellow top triple & use a SP1 top triple due to problem I ran into with fork tapper (this depends on thickness of clipon clamp of course).

It would be so sweet to get the specs on that axle adapter... I've got 4 brand spankin' new CNC mills to program... ^_^

Have I told you I hate you, but think you would need a lathe for that job <_<

Since I got out of that industry I used to be foremen/manager of a machine shop where we made all alloy parts & never once needed to make stuff for bikes as in those days you just did a custom spay job, polished a few things & that was about it, now every second day I want to make something :pissed:

If I had the room I would own a lathe & bridgeport mill, but alas I can only fit the bikes & cars I own just so no chance in hell unless a fairy god mother buys me a bigger home.

Just when I got all comfortable living indoors and married. :pissed:

Larry

VFRrider

haha I wonder if they will take the wife an a trade, they look (sorry can't think of words).

Very impressive work there Roy. The bike looks great. I've always harbored latent desires to do something like this and always talk myself out of it. (Almost certainly will do so again :pissed: ) Regardless, if you don't mind expanding a little, how did you set up the front wheel? I'm assuming you used an R1 unit, did you encounter any issues with spacing and the like and what did it take to get that sorted?

thanks.

I wanna know too! :pissed:

The bike looks excellent Roy! I like it a lot! How much of Ohlin's technology do you think was incorporated into Yamaha's parts while Yamaha owned them? When you open the forks, are there any similarities with the Ohlins R&T forks?

I will post up exactly the parts I used & what I did soon, but the main problem was rotor spacing on the R1 wheel because the R1 rotors are dead flat no off set at all & they locate on wheel sort of 2 ways. 1st is the small tabs on wheel & the 2nd is the rotor bolts are a thread dowel configuration but once you space the rotors out the required distance for the difference CBR triple clamps are to R1 triple clamps (2mm spacer between wheel & rotor) the R1 wheel tabs can't be used & the standard R1 bolts wont locate into wheel on the dowel part of bolts.

Ohlin's technology isn't specific to Ohlins as they all copy each other in some way because there are only so many ways to build forks that work, so it's hard to say if there is a direct relation ship but I'm sure there is as far as flow rates & what they already new works. You would be suprized how many times even Ohlins gets it wrong & just like any other fork/shock can be improved on by someone with the skill & time to do there own R&D. Everything can be improved to suit an individuals taste so just because it's a Ohlins/Penske/Wilbers/WP/etc doesn't mean there the bees knees, there just a upgrade out of the box for a factory installed cost effective suspension.

My CBR1000RR track bike forks (rebuilt as well) are just as good as the R1 units I have on the VFR but there not standard & have completely different Showa valving installed from stock so you can make anything work well you just have to know what your doing & I'm lucky my friend does as he seems to spend more time testing than making money. Even the latest & greatest Ohlins rear shock which costs a packet can be improved upon as he is testing one at the moment on a 07 R1 which he is also playing with (who gets a brand new $2500AU shock & pulls it apart almost straight away it's madness to me) & if you rode the bike with that shock out of the box to how it rides after he tinkered with it you wouldn't think it was the same shock. He wants to start his own line of valving for sports bikes that is aimed mainly for road use & my R1 forks have a prototype in them but I have no clue what the difference is because thats his science & he spends days calculating & playing with all these little round things that I have trouble even seeing.

What is forgotten about suspension even the good stuff like Ohlins is everything is machined with a tolerance +/- whatever so no 2 parts put together wil be exactly the same & as flow rates through valving are the main thing that keep your tyre firmly planted on the road you can have identical bikes with identical suspension & same rider & he will notice a difference in them both. Motogp at the cutting edge is a perfect example of this with each rider having 2 bikes that they will be setup the exact same but if rider crashes his prirary bike they will always say the 2nd bike felt different.

#vfrcapn I will try, the R1 forks can be upgraded internally buy someone that knows there stuff better than most to a point you can get 60 compression settings if you wanted (me thats just way to many but the point is you can) the RC51 fork compression is controlled by the bolt on part on front of fork which means the oil has to travel in a U configuration which does slow response time. So what tends to happen is you find a good compression setting on the RC51 fork that works well but go 1 click up it suddenly feels to hard or 1 click down it feels to soft. The RC51 don't get me wrong is a bloody good simple design fork but it's not cutting edge & with suspension response time for compression & rebound is everything. Now when a suspension tuner (I'm not one I just help out) starts playing with the RC51 forks they have to make a compromise between better compression or better rebound because the design of the fork doesn't lend to valving them both to be great (thats my understanding of what he has told me). Both the RC51 forks & R1 forks have .9 springs.

Now when test riding both I found on the RC51 forks I needed to get my settings spot on to get the best out of them & was always just adding 1 click up/down when the road surface changed allot (like smooth hot mix to bumpy) but not for just general cruising, mainly for spirited riding which is about all I do (my RC51 forks also had valving modifications). The R1 forks perform better over a wider range of settings but I'm still playing with them but already my riding buddy has said my corner entry etc is way faster than before but it doesn't feel any faster. The main thing I have noticed is change of direction mid corner leaned over is pin point & can catch you out with how fast it does it. Example 25kph corner I came in hot, so hot the guy in front that I thought I gave lots of room was about to be part of my front wheel & I was close to #full lean angle. I was able to cut off corner & go the outside (there was room no cars & this guy is my main ride buddy).

Brakes well the RC51 are good but radial are better, hope above sort of made sense.

#Goanna to get the best out of any forks you have to have correct springs for your weight & valving to suit those springs, to many people do springs but forget the valving needs changing to suit, it's all about flow rates. The VFR forks for an extremely simple design are good but they tend to wear out the internal bush the rod slides through which then lets oil leak past the valving (the main rod that looks like bright steel). The standard forks are better setup a little stiffer than normal in the valving as there is no adjustment on the fly & when you start pushing them hard you need that.

#SAFE-T I wish :idea3:

NOTE: I only know what I like from suspension so my comments are based on that & as we are all individuals others may like things much differently, I also know nothing about the modifications to all the valving as thats my friends lot & he don't share his trade secrets with anyone or he would be out of a job.

thanks :thumbsup:

things couldn't get better at the moment as my VFRD shirts & sticker just turned up in the mail as well.

Tank pad & corbin are for touring, standard seat solo cowl has also been resprayed black.

The R1 forks are specials as I do work for a suspension tuner (he does the valving etc, I strip out the shocks forks etc when he needs a hand) the valving is nothing like standard R1 valving & has been specifically designed for road use as I'm the test monkey.

I'm a blue freak sorry all my cars are blue, well even my new tool box that was my xmas gift to myself.

The way I have changed my mind about what I’m doing with my VTEC has been a saga in itself, a while back some might remember my bike with a RC51 front end. Well that was removed & sold off due to my intent to sell off my VTEC. Mr Honda hasn’t done there later model customers any favors by discounting the VFR to a point you would be silly to by one secondhand. I do like my VTEC (except for the VTEC valves for service but not what they do) so because I didn’t feel the need to give it away I decided to tinker with it instead AGAIN.

I just happened to have a 2005 R1 front end that I had started to gather parts for to install on my VFR750 (thats now has a F4I front end but is being sold). Now with what I had learnt from my RC51 install I knew the geometry I needed to setup the R1 forks & this is where I changed a few things & found out some things which you do when you can’t find anybody that has done same thing. I used a lower triple clamp from a CBR929/954 because there easier to obtain & if you do need in a hurry new due to mishap there $390AU new from Honda where the SP1 is a mind blowing $690AU. I then matched this with the normal CBR929/954 upper triple.

This is where I made a mistake because I’m using Convertibars which mount under top triple clamp because R1 forks are allot shorter than RC51 & I knew there wouldn’t be enough fork to mount clipons above top triple. Well due to fork height I new works from RC51 install I couldn’t slide forks up through triple claps far enough due to Convertibar clamp fouled on fork leg where it starts to tapper thicker. I was able to solve this problem by using the SP1 upper triple clamp which is flat not gullwing & allowed for forks to move up to required length.

Now because I can & bike was off the road I decided full service was needed due to 45000kms on the dial so valve inspection (this is a story in itself but the things I found & the time it took make me laugh when I read complaints about bills, this job is as bad as changing plugs on a V12 Jag). I also took the time out to do some housekeeping so just for the record bellow is list.

Pair valve complete removal (was just blocked off before)

Valves shims 5x VTEC, 3x NORM

Balance starter valves (I did this not that long ago with a borrowed set of gauges which I think were out because I bought my own set of quality ones & starter valves were way out & for the record bike was set to 1200rpm when I started & increased to 3000rpm when finished so had to back off idle big time)

New plugs

R1 front end install

Delink brakes, braided lines front/rear

Fit Motad catless headers

Paint wheels

Paint duct tail (hard to tell 2nd pic, top is black with VFR1 stickers under clear coat)

Fit billet fuel cap, oil cap, foot pegs

With everything I have removed I would est I have saved 10-15kgs weight off the bike but will go to weigh bridge to find out very soon as bike is ready to rock after 2 months mainly waiting for parts. Only thing left to do is dyno remap & I'll be a happy camper.

As far as handling I can't say anything except :thumbsup: better than the RC51 front you bet it is & for the performance the bike now has with all above work & Motard headers which removed the biggest problem a VTEC has. My mate on his Blackbird calls me a bastard when we ride because I just pull away under anything bellow 160kph. He even said I have been leaving faint black lines just on straight line acceleration & can change line mid corner like the thing is on rails & he has my old RC51 front on his Blackbird. Do you think I'm happy well lets just say I don't smile as much having sex as riding this bike at the moment (wife slapped me when I told her she needed an update but I was brave & didn't cry)

Enjoy :thumbsup:

Coz he sold it to another mate of ours, who now has a FrankenBlackbird

yeh & he wont give it back :-(

I'm still holding out to see what Mr Honda does 08 the 750 might still get the R1 forks & the VTEC might be traded :-)

Hi all, I've been a little quiet due to building & playing with the new CBR1000RR track bike which has replaced the VFR750 track bike. Dan sent me a pm about his VTEC fork swap so thought all the more info can only be a good thing.

Again my plans have been foiled because I was going to rebuild the VFR750 to become my road bike & again sell off my VTEC. I striped the RC51 front off my VTEC write up here http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...c=24867&hl= to reinstall standard gear for bike sale which didn't happen because I like it to much to sell for nothing as there just to cheep brand new.

Pic of VTEC with RC51 front end

I have bought parts to install a 2005 R1 front end to the VFR750 but it will now be going on the VTEC with some extra bling because I can :thumbsup:

The forks are a little special due to custom valving for road use without duel compression & some other tricks but I'm a test pilot for the designer & at the moment am still to try them out (these valves are not designed like everything else which are made for racing & adapted for road use, these are designed for road use from scratch).

Parts list so far to start the ball rolling is as follows:

R1 2005 forks (custom valving)

R1 2005 calipers

R1 2005 rotors

R1 2005 axle & spacers

R1 2005 wheel (5 spoke so good match VFR)

CBR954 lower & upper triple clamps

CBR954 tapered roller bearings

Convertibars

I still have to buy front guard, front master cylinder & make some 3mm spacers to start installing.

The difference between the R1 wheel spacing & the CBR954 is 6mm, that means you need one 3mm spacer added to wheel location side of fork & between each rotor to space out to locate center in radial calipers.

Only questions;

In this thread you stat you need 2mm spacers each side of wheel for axle & rotors. You need this because CBR triple clamps are further apart than R1.

When I bolt everything up (yes projects on hold in my mind, but my hands always do something else) I measure a 3mm spacer is needed, not 2 mm which if I used would have my wheel 1mm out of alinement.

My 2007 R1 wheel with standard spacers measures 160mm.

My 2005 R1 forks mounted in 929 triple clamps & axle fitted measures 166mm (RHS inside fork stop to LHS inside fork stop).

Rotors are standard R1 2005 no off set.

So above means I need 1mm rotor spacers both sides of wheel (is perfect have test fitted using washers) & LHS fork spacer needs 3mm added as only this side needed due to used as location stop, RHS fork locates on axle so will be just 1mm further in fork.

Well I'm going with 1mm due to my measurements with everything bolted together in front of my face as I don't trust anybody.