zRoYz

I have replaced my hub assembly, I noticed movement when removing wheel for new tyre. A good check is when bike on center stand grab wheel & try to wiggle you can feel movement if bearings bad, just don't mistake the small amount of movement in shock linkages is the hub. I have a press so removed bearings from hub but due to reason tyre was being changed for trip away I was time limited to fix before trip & couldn't get replacement bearings in time. But lucky for me a mate had a new hub assembly for his 5th gen which is a different part number to the 6th gen but fits the same. There isn't much cost difference buying complete hub & buying the bearings, if you add the time etc to fit bearings the hub replacement is the way to go.

It was an effort to remove hub from bike & axle from hub because of build up of dirt corrosion, the worn bearings had little grease (I added extra grease to replacement hub). It is recommended you also replace the hub nut when replacing mainly due to locking collar you punch down into slot once nut at torque.

Those bars will simply be to low for the vfr you can simply see that by placing that mounting plate over your existing vfr triple. Due to your new forks length you also wont have enough tube to mount clipons above triple clamp. You also wont get enough rise or adjustment with helibars when mounted under top triple, you have to use a clipon system like convertibars or the mx type bar conversion.

Due to the length of your forks you will have to mount the clipons bellow top triple like the convertibars in most cases, or do the top triple motocross type bar conversion. Just as a rule of thumb for you as have done many a conversion 6th gen, from bottom of frame were steering head bearing is too center of axle you want about 510mm of fork length.

Between this and ApexAndy's I have no hope for mine............ it would look like shit in comparison....... very stellar bike :)

NEVER under estimate the power of your passion, you may surprise yourself & everybody else, it is amazing what just cleaning/polishing/painting achieves, have fun with your build.

So this is the special project, now I will be very honest as we all like different things I'm not a fan of street fighters, cafe racers or naked bikes, my idea of a naked format is a MX or enduro that I can cover in mud in the bush. But what I like about this bike that appeals to me is 1. it's blue my fav colour. 2. the gen5/6 rear wheel I'm sick of everybody thinking the gen 3 rear wheel is the bee's knees, again my fav is the gen 5/6. 3. the CBR 08> tail it is again in my opinion the best looking stream line tail, it is a shame on the CBR the front is pig ugly. 4, attention to finishing everything with detail.

Great work seb but were is the gun holder, some of your gun modifications are my fav mods you do outstanding :-)

There is noway in hell that shock bent like that in shipping, at a guess it has been mistreated or off a crashed bike.

I didn't read this thread before changing a 6th gen stator & fly wheel & kaldek on page two does show the special tool required to remove fly wheel. My Honda special tool is a standard 20mm metric fine bolt (metric fine is 1.5mm pitch thread).

Screw bolt into flywheel place ratchet gun on bolt & flywheel comes off in a second. zero need to modify a puller or buy any special tool.

I'm curious, has anyone ever tried cleaning the disc brake bobbins to "unbind" them so the discs can float properly in the carrier?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qoPqN2GBdw

I'd never heard of this before but it seems to make sense and would be easy to try.

Well, I was curious too and phoned EBC's technical support in the UK.

They have never heard of this, nor would they recommend doing it.

If you still want to go ahead, because neglect caused matters to corrode, be careful not to over tighten the bolt and nut because you do not want to compress the bobbin to a point it may damage or crack.

So this goes into the category "broodje aap"

+1 this thread makes me cringe, a brake rotor is a life saving device & any failure can be life threatening yet people are willing to force tempered material straight when warped & use other means to free up locating bobbins. I hope those willing to do such things have the parts x-rayed before reuse, but then that would cost more than simply replacing the faulty parts. Please people replace faulty rotors with new ones your life is worth it.

PCV will work fine on any vtec, power commander don't list it for models under 09 because that was PCV release date. I have a PCV on my 04 (originally had PC3) you can even use the PC3 map which is compatible with the PCV. The maps however aren't backwards compatible you can't use a PCV map on a PC3. So in other words if you want to try the PC3 maps made for the 02-05 you can as they will load onto the PCV.

I have uploaded a map you can try from my 04 file name vfr800doin

It is a PC3 map but can load to PCV as I now use a PCV, it was dyno map.

I use Motad headers so close to same as catless 99

All my other mods are same except my mufflers are LEO

That is a very long list of parts for a garage ornament, even people that buy vintage machinery that zero spare parts can be bought & anything they need has to be fabricated from scratch complete there projects in under 12 years. If you spent 1/2 the time you spend on forums working on your project the other 1/2 of that time you could be riding lol

If you buy a 954 complete front & happy with the 3 spoke wheel then it is a simple bolt on job except for the bars. You will need to use bars that mount under the top triple due to length of forks there is no other way as there simply wont be enough fork length even through gull wing top 954 triple to safely mount above. You need to find what will work there are converibars for example or do a conversion like Veefer800Canuck posted. I use more or less same length forks CBR1000RR & no way with fork length to achieve decent front ride height can bars mount above top triple. I would also look into an F4i master cylinder which matches VFR & is correct size for 954 callipers.

The 60 profile will have same effect as when you raise forks through triple clamps to quicken the steering, the only way to know if your going to like them is try them. I don't feel you will like it if your rear tyre is a touring profile as the different profiles could counter the feel your after. I normally run the Metzeler M5 but at times fit a racetech K3 front which I really like it's just I wear them out a little quick but there a great feeling tyre for what you seem to be after a real turn in swooping feel.

Also the Metzeler racetech only comes in a 120/70 front from memory, the M3 you can get 120/60.

You need to lift tank the wiring you want is between frame & throttle bodies & is with the big grey fuel injection plug. You have the wiring that runs outside of frame coming from R/R etc.

ilim007 has posted pics above of fuel injection plug & red plug that is in that area.

Just my point of view because it's what I like but I run lower pressures than recommended because I like the feed back I receive doing so, it is just like suspension in a way. I'm not talking about very low pressures just a few psi lower than recommended, I can feel the tire working allot better. Instead of arguing the point people should just experiment themselves just drop 2psi cold pressure each time you ride & feel the difference so you personally have an understanding of the effects. So start at your base line just like you do with suspension & test the effects of lowering & increased tire pressure, it is the only way to find out the effects & maybe find a better combo than just the "I always put such & such pressure".

There really is no need to argue the point if your not happy to experiment then don't, you tend to get the same logic with suspension, people don't try different settings so will never know if things can be better.

^^ sometimes common sense just falls on deaf ears, well said Mohawk.

To many people are like sheep & need to follow, just because there is a spec sheet of recommended settings for everything doesn't mean there the be all & end all of settings. People modify there bikes differently, buy different model bikes, buy different tires, use different oil & the list goes on. The most important thing is to use tires & pressures that YOU the rider feel confident with, it doesn't matter if you can obtain the same grip wear with a harder compound tire or higher pressure than you like to run, the important thing is the rider has confidence in his/her set up. I run a softer compound on the VFR than I need 95% of the time & waste money having to replace my tires due to lower mileage, but I feel more at ease knowing I have lets say an extra level of tolerance if I do push the limits which would probably be less than 5% of the time.

Come on now it is debating tire pressures, for example do people watch racing or any form of motorsport as an example & see the tems adjusting tire pressures even if just 1-2psi. It doesn't matter if track/road you can experiment with tire pressures there is no hard & fast rule on what pressure you use, the recommended pressures that come on bike are just that recommended & there for the OEM tire spec.

I'm sure everybody if they think about it can realise the amount of variables outside air temp, road surface temp, road surface friction, weight of bike & rider, tire construction, tire compound, etc we don't race for tenths so on the road you find a happy place for tire pressure that allows a performance we require.

To answer an earlier post you gain more grip dropping pressure because it increases the tire contact patch on the road, more contact patch more grip but there are limits you just can't drop the pressure your tire will deform so much it can't maintain profile.

Just for my example at present I'm running Metzeler M5

road cold pressure front 34-36psi (mainly 34), rear 36-38psi (mainly 36)

track cold pressure front 30-32psi, rear 30-32psi (due to extra heat with larger contact patch & pushing tire harder the pressure increase when hot is larger on track which is also a reason to start with a lower pressure)

People get to caught up in the chicken strip saga, the fact is we all have different skills & so long as your having fun who cares. There are a number of factors to consider also & has little to do with suspension except for the fact as suspension moves it also effects the bikes geometry. On the road I use edge to edge of rear tyre but the front always has some chicken strip, if I use the VFR at the track the front chicken strips disappear mainly because the lean angle gradually increases due to the repetitiveness of doing the same corners over & over so you enter faster & faster. It is also due to you tend to trail brake allot heavier at the track & also your tyre pressures are lower so the contact patch is larger.

My CBR1000RR when road riding also kept it's chicken strips front tyre unless I really engaged warp drive & then your talking about track day corner entry speeds & honestly on the road that's not smart riding as you should always allow a bigger margin for error.

Roy when you are through with Murray would you like to swing by 'muhrica and whip me into shape as well?

I'll give you slack Seb because you have so many projects going on at once, Murray does have a VW Kombi now to restore but does need to finish his first project. I only rib him so much because I want to see the finished result as his build has some trick parts. I think those that tinker never really finish a project because you always find something to change but you need to finish version 1 first :-)

It's nothing I haven't expressed to Murray before, it will be a very good example of a franfenviffer 4th gen when finished, I just want to see the finished product not tall stories.

Ha, yes this build has been through a few changes of government... plus the arrival of kids, an interstate relocation, etc...

Anyway, no excuses, I've just been slack. I have recently re-organised the workshop, though - I can actually see the bike now - so hopefully I'll be able to get things moving again in the next week or two.

Little baby steps. How about I try to do one thing per week and post an update here. That might help to kick things along again.

Honestly don't make promises you can't keep, your worse than my daughters with excuses. Had kids, move states, etc note to self you have had that bike build going for over 10 years there is no excuse unless your build is a prototype with technology that hasn't been invented yet.

I fully understand a passion to tinker, but the same thing for over 10 years that your not even building a totally new frame or any major engineering is just sad. You would be far better off returning the 4th gen back to totally stock standard & displaying it as a center piece in your home. I know that is harsh muzz but come on you have been posting pictures & commenting on builds & mods for so long using yours as examples but in reality you didn't learn the lesson of little toot properly.....you think you can but FAILED.

We don't want stupid pictures of one extra bolt installed, finish the thing & post the completed project because the time you have taken you could have worked on the bike for 30mins per week & it still would have been finished years ago.

Ive been looking around trying to figure out a new shock, as my OEM has 85,000+kms on it and I'm sure its close to needing a rebuild or replacement. Problem is I almost think I need two shocks.... :(

One for everyday riding and one to swap in when the wife and I go touring. And no I'm not calling my wife fat, with gear I'm sure she barely breaks 135lbs.

Normally I run the preload up around 75% of max, for my everyday riding. Install all 3 bags and loaded up for a 3 or 4 day trip and have the wife jump on, I've gone from a daily load of 200lbs to almost double. Even with the preload at max, the front end is light and when it gets dark the head lights blind the guys up on the ISS....

The wife and I have been toying with the idea of me riding the bike out west sometime in the summer of 2014 and she'll fly to Calgary. Then spending a few weeks touring Banff in to BC. So current setup isn't going to cut it.

Is it posable to just swap out to a heavier spring when needed or is it just simpler have a second shock?

I've been toying with the idea of getting a Uni-go trailer, but that's $3000 for something I may only use once or twice a year.

I don't like to get caught up in the suspension suggestion box.....because I have tried allot of options & know for a fact one option is a guarantee of satisfaction the other options are like wearing shoes with holes, they work but have a limited usefulness (but they did save you money). You won't need 2 shocks if you have one shock that can do the job, because you have been used to the crap OEM shock which has the dampening quality of a tee shirt on a girl running with DD's is why you feel you may need 2 shocks. A quality AFTERMARKET shock like Ohlins/Penske/etc with remote compression will do wonders for your application. You may need to compromise just a little on the spring rate but only on the optimal rate for solo riding it's not like your going to need a truck spring. The reason I say this is that MAGICAL process you get that works properly with a remote res, compression with the piston & o-ring design, not the hit & miss bladder design OEM shocks like a 929. Compression is a wonderful thing when you start to load your bike over the fitted spring rate, compression resists shock compression & it is amazing how well it works just increasing the compression rate a few clicks to handle the extra load.

I'm not sure the length of the 954 forks but thinking there same as the CBR1000RR forks as people were interchanging 929/954 forks with CBR1000RR to obtain the radial callipers for there 929/954.

I know for a fact the CBR1000RR forks will work & your front end will be very close to standard height & the big difference is when riding they don't dive anywhere near as far as the standard forks which makes more difference in the real world when forks under load when referring to operating length.

To make them work you have to use a 929/954 top triple clamp due to the lower mounting point with the gull wing design which mounts them about 15mm lower so you gain that length & then the fork itself can be modified internally to gain some more length if needed & then there is your rider sag which with standard forks on a VFR is average 40mm so set bike up with less rider sag you again have more length. The key is you have to mount clipons bellow top triple so convertibars or the like are needed, but if you have a street fighter you can use adaptors top triple for motocross bars.

R1 forks are longer but you will still need the same clipon setup as above & the added problem you will need to use custom wheel/rotor spaces, if you use 929/954 or CBR1000RR 04-07 forks standard spacers are all you need. The only draw back with the Honda forks is the front wheel is 3 spoke & not a good match, you can customize a RC51 wheel to work, the good part of the R1 forks is the R1 wheel is a good match. I have fitted R1 forks to a friends 4th gen & it works fine as they came from my 6th gen which now has CBR1000RR forks.

On fork length what is missed when comparing the standard fork length is most have there standard forks 10mm or more raised through triple clamps to aid with turn in & quicken steering so the length your after you should measure on your existing set up from bottom of head stock to axle & then allow for rider sag you use to determine if shorter forks will work for the way you like your bike set up.

Okay so I hit another BUMP....

The HISS ring on my VFR was cracked, so I ordered another one, also via Ebay.. and once again, wrong part.. the one I received isn't for my VFR, or a VFR at all.. its "wiring" is waay to short and doesn't have all the markings, e.g. hazards etc. so not sure from which bike this came off..

Yesterday I filled the VFR with oil, although I don't have the tank back yet from spray I swinged the bike; I'm not sure what to expect but I've noticed I can swing the bike with the ECU plugged in or removed completely.

Now the ECU also has a crack, and I'm wondering if the ECU and cracked HISS might not be faulty, call me paranoid, but I don't get the feeling I should. I'm not sure what the correct behavior of the VFR should be when the ignition is turned on, but I hear nothing.

is there a way to check the "health" of the HISS ring and or the ECU ?

I don't know what you mean by you can swing the bike?

BUT the hiss ring which is just a receiver for the key transponder & the ecu may still work even cracked. You probably can't hear anything because you don't have your tank fitted which is where the fuel pump is that you hear prime when you turn ign on. Do you get the dash light up? & you can test fuel pump connecting wiring has supplied voltage when ign on with multimeter. If hiss is locking out your bike from memory the fuel pump doesn't prime.

If hiss is working just use some epoxy to seal the cracks.