jeremy77

Did we lose our guinea pig? After a job change and life craziness I think I'm back on the path to get working on the vfr again.

how does one tell the different between Phillips and JIS?

Find someone local to help you. You'd be surprised at how far a lunch and/or adult beverage might go.

:+1:

Check out www.customfighters.com for fighter specific info. I think some guys from here are on over there as well... at least sebspeed is.

Those computer fans are not going to be waterproof. That's a problem.

Just put them in zip loc bags... that should work!

Looks like stock wheel off an '86 VFR

He does it just to anoy you Jeremy77. Specifically you.

I guess that's possible... However I'm usually the one who is being annoying just for the fun of it!

I would think with either set-up you would need to change the lines. Or do the HeliBars not change the position of the bars enough to need new lines?

Slick Rick! Is that powder or paint on the master cyl?

...For me when I get a chain that actually measures the slack the same all round. I adjust when installed then a couple 100 or less, then a little maybe about half life(1000K). Then the next time it starts needing adjustment is telling me to order a new chain.

so is the half life 1 million miles (km?) or is that the whole life? Either way, you've got pass on that brand of lube....

Brian

Woops.... There's a "0" missing.......ment 10,000k and it may not need it then, it usually stretches after install and stays there though most of it's life, if not adjusted to tight to start with(ask me how I know)....... but the main thing is to get a chain that is flixable at all links, and it's a witch hunt to find one........... Although I just installed the best chain for evenness since I've had this bike(41,000k).

OEM chain (110 links)(sprockets F-16 & R-43)

2ndNew chain@ 12000 ; Adjustments : 28500 ; 30000

3rdNew chain@ 31000 ; Adjustments :36500(checked 1¼ to 1½")

4thNew chain@ 41500 ;

So, Monk, I have to say you throw me off a bit. You're from Danville, VA yet you use KM and spell "tyre" with a "y". I've known people from Danville and they don't seem like the type to do either of those rather british type things mentioned... Just curious to know the story.

On my 4th gen, the bolts that hold the subframe to the frame have unusually long hex heads on them. I just put one of them in my 13mm combination wrench and used it like a 13mm allen key.

looking good! PC monster has been created.

No doubt! I found myself wandering the garage looking for what else I could powder coat.

I've also been looking at this product LIQUID 2 POWDER that you mix with your powder, spray onto any material (not just metal) and then bake like powder... I wonder if it will work with fiberglass. I'd love to powder coat my tail fairing and bellypan too!

Secret projects are so Ty Pennington! Give us some pics!!!

If you're on a budget and want an inexpensive gun tat gets the job done... The craftsman gun from amazon is a really great deal at $35. It's completely self contained, no compressor needed.

Got the top triple done as well...

Been thinking about the engine... Anyone know if I can coat the camshaft covers, clutch cover and stator cover?

I think the swing arm will fit in my oven just fine.

I've gotta figure out if and how I can do the frame.

I have officially started powder coating parts!

All parts were blasted with 80 grit glass beads and wiped down with acetone. The parts with paint were stripped with Aircraft stripper, then blasted. The glass beads are pretty slow to remove paint.

The obligatory before pic:

After... I masked off the splined hole for the clutch lever:

I thought about masking the machined areas on the clip ons, but decided not to. In the end they still fit on the fork uppers just fine. I will have to run a tap through the threads to clean them out, but the powder didn't get too deep.

Here's the brake side reassembled:

I'm feeling pretty happy with how they're turning out with my home powder coating setup! I'm using a 20% gloss black that is UV resistant from www.powderbuythepound.com. There is almost a slight metallic look to it.

I thought about doing a detailed how-to write up for someone else wanting to do the same, but a lot of the info is on here already. If anyone is interested, let me know and i'll throw down a write up on what I did.

Sweet action!

Mine did that... Turned out the wires to the right hand switch were broken and the kill switch was toast as well. Of course this was after it was totaled.

I imagine then the problem is the cradle. Check to see that the cradle pins are touching the Zumo contacts... No touchy = no chargey.

There's not too much to be done to the 750 V4... That's why is has always been regarded as one of the best bikes ever made.

As far as sheer engine horsepower: good plugs, k&n filter, good synthetic oil, and your slip on. That's about it. For handling a lot of guys will tell you to drop the front end about 10mm to make it steer quicker.

I know that's not a very exciting list... I guess the bottom line is that it's already great, and doesn't need much.

that's exactly what I'm going for... is that paint or powder?

Do I need to worry about the heat of baking the powder warping the rotors?

I've done some hunting and haven't found the answer...

How does one paint or powder coat the inner section of the brake disc? Obviously you don't want any coating on the braking surface, but is it possible (or even advisable) to take the two pieces of the disc apart (these are called floating discs, right?) in order to coat the inner mounting section. Or do you just tape them?

I'd like to make them look like this:

Just got a response back from a local shop: $225 painted, $175 unpainted!!! That seems pricey to me. I'll contact CruzinAZ and see what he thinks.

Here's what I'm going to do, easier than a whole new oven. Allows the use of the ovens thermostat. Makes total sense to me. I only need a few more feet.

hey Kel,

On your oven extension, I know you used fiberglass duct board. This is not a very common material here in Texas, but I managed to order some from Grainger and have it shipped to our local store for pickup. It seems there is a faced side, faced with a craft foil that is rated to 150 deg... and there is an unfaced side, rated to 450 deg. I assume you have the foil side out and the fiberglass side in. Is that correct?

I forgot to mention that I also picked up a bellypan to cover the front headers. I'm pretty excited, because I think the lines are going to work perfectly with the CBR1000RR tail fairing.