TheBigCheese

I've got a clear map pocket, thought about using it but it's painful to get things in and out. So all I really need is a new tank bag - brilliant.

Technically I modified my bike so "Modifications" it is. My apologies in advance, this won't be thrilling unless you've got the same problem. I wear a badge at work, depending on the facility it has to be shown at the guard gate or sometimes touched by the guard. I've always clipped it to the top of my windscreen in a somewhat clumsy way. Then I've got free hands for clutch and brake. I was planning to cut down my windscreen anyway, so I cut a small slot to catch the retractor cord and hold it tight (I also have to swipe while inside so I'm pretty nerded up). My old tank bag has a place for me to clip the retractor base, so it will be quick as long as I drop it with picture side up. I think this will be better than my old system. But I've daydreamed of a plexi slot with opaque sliding cover (way to much time on my hands sometimes - like right now). I'm sure that some of you have the same problem. The rules are: - Must not be visible until I get to the guard - Must be easy to uncover and/or clip on with left hand - there's about a 5 second window of opportunity to get it set - otherwise I've got to stop requiring both hands for clutch and brake. - Speed limit is 15 on the approach, so wind is not a big problem when visible - But it has to tuck someplace where it won't get blown away during commute Here's the badge(s) hanging in front of the windshield See slot at top of windscreen holding retractor cord rider's view, retractor base is clipped into tank bag Windscreen without badge, showing just the slot

That will make your job harder, you need to compare optimized to optimized. Fortunately the PCV can switch between two maps. Not on the fly with the AutoModule plugged in, it cannot. The terminals on the side of the case to switch with and the memory that you would use to store the second map are used by the autotune module. So, first I have ride the bike enough with a set of trims in the autotune to develop a good map, which can take a bunch of miles. Then, save that set of trims off on a laptop and start over again with a set of trims for running with HHO. Once those too sets of maps are made, I'd have ride a loop with one map, then ride the same loop with the second map, hoping that all the external conditions are the same. As soon as I get some funds, I'll make a trek to a dyno and try to get a set of trims put together for each. So it will be even harder than I thought. Good luck, but this is just too painful to watch.

That will make your job harder, you need to compare optimized to optimized. Fortunately the PCV can switch between two maps.

Before you tear down your current setup, you've got an opportunity to collect more data and prepare for gen 2. If you can get your current setup stable, you'll learn a lot more and save effort in the long run. It's OK for now if you can't run over rough roads (maybe tough to find in New Jersey, eh?). - You've already seen the level of doubt so you'll have to have bombproof data to back you up. If you're just doing it for yourself, then you should be your own worst critic. - Get a baseline on fuel consumption post PCV install, pre Brown's gas. Make sure your bike is in excellent working order. - This science stuff is tough work, you've got to make just as many runs on the unmodified setup as you're making with the generator going. Hit the pike and figure out a circuit, you need to show that you can achieve consistent results on the unmodified bike. - It would be good to do some A/B comparisons. Can you easily switch the generator on/off without affecting the bike's operation? You need to show repeatability - so going back and forth several times under identical conditions is important.

Wow, this is going to be even better than an oil thread. I look forward to reading it all winter. Just remember that a sufficiently advanced technology looks like magic to a less advanced culture. Good luck, have fun.