Rush2112

1500 mile check-in on my 2008 CBR1000 COPs... 1500 glorious, high rpm, corner carving, blissful miles... not a hiccup!

T6 synthetic is 5w-40, the T is 15w-40 like the report specifies...

Oops's your that's dino..

The Doc is right... Rotella T6 5w-40 is full synthetic, the Rotella T 15w-40 is dino diesel engine oil.

What XRCRIS posted was his report from a sample of Rotella T 15w-40 dino oil

Nice mount CR! I'm still looking where to put my voltmeter...

...With the large difference in injectors between 5th G and 6th G it seems (without any objective test data) to be a coin toss as to which ECU will better control the fuel map in base form.

From the sounds of this... and please correct me if I'm reading incorrectly between the lines, are you going to be using 6th gen injectors on the 5th gen engine? I've often wondered about this with the 6th gen multi-orificed injectors getting better atomization if a swap is worth it...

You need to swap the entire throttle body assembly then. The 6th gen fuel injectors won't fit in the 5th gen fuel rack. Way different size/length.

Rangerscott69 has done this. It works fine. You can use the 5th gen ECU.

Does the 5th gen air box fit on the 6th gen throttle bodies or do you need to use the 6th gen air box?

If Rangerscott69 is listening... how did this mod turn out? Performance, ride-ability, mileage, power... any comments? Worth the swap or just neat to do?

...ooops, sorry for the threadjacking

...With the large difference in injectors between 5th G and 6th G it seems (without any objective test data) to be a coin toss as to which ECU will better control the fuel map in base form.

From the sounds of this... and please correct me if I'm reading incorrectly between the lines, are you going to be using 6th gen injectors on the 5th gen engine? I've often wondered about this with the 6th gen multi-orificed injectors getting better atomization if a swap is worth it...

So... wouldn't 6th gen ECU mean VTEC mapping for an engine with no VTEC hardware...???

Yup... that could be an issue

I extended from the stock coil wires.

So as to not mix them up, I only did 1 at a time.

I used heat-shrinkable crimp spade connectors, soldered and heat-shrink the splices from the COP harness to my own wiring, and used split-loom on everything.

Here's my experience with this mod, starts on post 12... Many Thanks to RangerScott and Veefer for the inspiration and information...

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/75807-cop-for-5th-gen-engine/page-2#entry908523

Making the wiring connector from the CBR harness. Waterproof crimp male spade connectors, white lithium grease to seal out moisture, and liquid tape sucked into the back of the connector to provide the final seal. I matched the wire colors from the CBR harness and connectors to the install on the stock VFR wiring... I know, a little anal, but while I was making it I figured what the hell...

... attached to the stock wiring so it is completely reversible...

Installed and wired...

I never measured it on a ruler... here is a comparison to my Y2K plug boot... The rubber boot on the COP fit perfect in the valve cover and sealed it just below the lip.

What I started with from a 2008 CBR1000...

Here they are installed...

The 2008 CBR1000 COPs fit perfect in my 5th gen, but that is a 2 wire set-up. If I may ask, why are you going with the 6th gen ECU and the 3 wire ignition output on a 5th gen engine?

And as said, she doesn't bang me after the mods, in fact she hardly moves at all during the ride.

I think it's because your not hitting the sweet spot. If you could hit it, she'd be moving alot more.

LOL...

Very nice looking bike! The new peep show window looks great with the plate matching the drapes.

I've had A LOT of hassles with the ST1100 throttle cables on my 5th gen during the install of my Spiegler LSL superbike bars. The ST cables are about 2.75" longer in overall length then the stock cables, but because they are from a carbureted bike they have a different length of free cable extended out from the cable sleeve. I eventually had to bend the cable mount on the throttle body assembly to get them to work... and they didn't offer enough increase in length for the bars I installed so a thorough re-route was necessary to get them to work.

Did you check the coil resistance for all 4 sticks? Maybe when they are getting hot the resistance is rising?

Excellent. I'll do a search for his username and hit him up about it.

I added a link to his website in my first post for additional info

http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/vfr800.html

Shock swaps on the VFR are a common suspension upgrade. CBR929 on the 5th gens and CBRF4i on the 6th gens. BR has plenty of experience with these bikes so I would accept his advice.

Jamie Daugherty (Daugherty Motor Sports) is another member here and provides suspension set-up advice, spring and re-valving work to make the valving work with the new spring rate. I sent him my 929 shock and he set it up perfect for my weight and my style of riding for a lot less than an aftermarket unit. I couldn't have asked for better service, pricing, and assistance... nice guy to boot!

PM Jamie through VFRD or visit:

http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/vfr800.html

Nice Testarossa look Veefer! Thanks again for the info... I should dig into this mod next weekend and I'll add on how the CBR1000 sticks work

Did you add all new wiring to the CoPs or did you extend it from the stock coil wires?

Rebump... trying to learn as much as I can.

...plus a question. I picked up a set of 2008 CBR1000 COPs, will these work on a 5th gen? Any suggestions on the gage of wire to run to them? Thanks...

Are they three wire or two? You need them to be two wire.

The CBR COPS are two wire... thanks for the info and the redirect

Rebump... trying to learn as much as I can.

...plus a question. I picked up a set of 2008 CBR1000 COPs, will these work on a 5th gen? Any suggestions on the gage of wire to run to them? Thanks...

Good luck! I was going to suggest different throttle cam profiles to help with small throttle openings but I saw you already went there... just curious, what rpms are you running when you feel the excess engine braking? I thought you mentioned commuting, so are you lower in the rpm range? Also, do you have lightened rims like carbon fiber or any driveline changes to the bike?

I have the throttle cam, but that does not apply when at 0 throttle and max engine braking.

It doesn't matter what RPM I am at, the engine braking feels the same. The effect is greater at lower speeds though since there is less forward momentum to counteract the braking. At high speeds, downshifting, it is not that noticeable. That is why I a say in normal speeds and traffic, that is when it is most bothersome.

Bike has 5700 miles on it, no mods. It has always felt this way.

Ok, I understand what your saying... my bike doesn't exhibit severe engine braking either at higher rpms, I figure it is due to all the rotating mass momentum. I was using a similar chain of thought when I asked about lightweight rims... less mass, less momentum so greater engine braking.

The throttle cam profile I was thinking if you had something like a G2 it might help to gently crack open the throttle bodies a little easier.

That's the name, the G2. That greatly helped the low speed stuff. So I have no real issue with touchy throttles or hesitations.

I know the severe engine braking is some issue with the previous owners tuning since I all but eliminated it with an adjustment. It must be off from what the rest of you guys are used to. Will get it to a dealer.

Synching the starter valves and setting the idle correctly will definitely help the engine run smoother and I hope it corrects what you are experiencing... Summer is coming, get it right and get riding

Good luck! I was going to suggest different throttle cam profiles to help with small throttle openings but I saw you already went there... just curious, what rpms are you running when you feel the excess engine braking? I thought you mentioned commuting, so are you lower in the rpm range? Also, do you have lightened rims like carbon fiber or any driveline changes to the bike?

I have the throttle cam, but that does not apply when at 0 throttle and max engine braking.

It doesn't matter what RPM I am at, the engine braking feels the same. The effect is greater at lower speeds though since there is less forward momentum to counteract the braking. At high speeds, downshifting, it is not that noticeable. That is why I a say in normal speeds and traffic, that is when it is most bothersome.

Bike has 5700 miles on it, no mods. It has always felt this way.

Ok, I understand what your saying... my bike doesn't exhibit severe engine braking either at higher rpms, I figure it is due to all the rotating mass momentum. I was using a similar chain of thought when I asked about lightweight rims... less mass, less momentum so greater engine braking.

The throttle cam profile I was thinking if you had something like a G2 it might help to gently crack open the throttle bodies a little easier.

By the way, I don't claim to know what I am doing... I give this a 20% chance of working out...

Good luck! I was going to suggest different throttle cam profiles to help with small throttle openings but I saw you already went there... just curious, what rpms are you running when you feel the excess engine braking? I thought you mentioned commuting, so are you lower in the rpm range? Also, do you have lightened rims like carbon fiber or any driveline changes to the bike?

Open your butterflys slightly... with your right wrist. If you don't like the max engine breaking reduce it with a little maintenance throttle instead of snapping the throttle completely closed. Our bikes don't have ride by wire so the ECU can't do it for you.

I finally went and got the kit for my '98 VFR.

This one, but bought from Bombaymotorsports locally.

http://spieglerusa.com/handlebar-conversion-kit-4271.htm

Looks great... so good I ordered a set myself! Looked like a GREAT deal when I followed the link... $149 for the handlebar conversion set. Went to my local bike shop, Dave Clark's Forever Endeavor Cycles, and found out when he tried to order them it was mis-priced on the website... it is $299 for the set. It has since been corrected to the $299 price on the web page.

Dave's a good guy and is BMW/Ural specialist and restoration expert. We worked out a deal on these and some other stuff so I'm still getting them. Just wanted to give folks a heads up in case they saw the same sweet deal I did and got their hopes up...

Master machine work with high tech materials... Very cool stuff BLS, thanks for sharing. That must be one happy Honda!