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Rush2112

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Posts posted by Rush2112

  1. Gorgeous bike Seb!

    I've been off-line for awhile living life and took a job out in the middle of the Pacific... I got bored at work today and logged onto to see what's up.  Thanks for the bike porn Seb!!!  And I see Gig is still on here too... bonus!

    Hopefully, I won't get in trouble for spending the last couple of hours devouring every detail of your post, zooming in and examining all the goodies!

    Well done Seb!!!

    Can't wait to hear it roar in the mountains one day...

    • Like 1
  2. 3 hours ago, dudutzu said:

     I wasn't talking about your exhaust, I was referring to the factory exhaust.

    Factory exhaust on gen 5 and 6 combines cyliders 1+2 and 3+4. On gen 8 it combines 1+3 and 2+4.

     

    I'm just trying to get clarification if running the 1+3 and 2+4 would pose a [long term] problem.

    The factory exhaust merge configuration on the 8th gen was done for manufacturing cost savings not performance. This is why the 8th gen sees the greatest benefit from the WiLD Headers. Running the WiLD Headers on an 8th gen shouldn’t cause any long term problems except difficulty wiping the sh!t eating grin off your face!

    • Like 2
    • Haha 2
  3. 9 minutes ago, flya750 said:

    Check out these crush gaskets for the 2015 VF800FD. They may be better than the Delkevic crush gaskets?

    Description

    "Very high quality copper covered fiber exhaust gasket.  Sold individually.

    • Flexible fiber core
    • Soft copper exterior
    • Can be stacked for problematic head pipes
    • Sold individually"

     

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Interceptor-800-VFR800FD-Deluxe-2014-2015-Head-Pipe-Exhaust-Gasket/162508919192?hash=item25d6495198%3Ag%3AATgAAOSwd0tdt8dS&fits=Year%3A2015|Model%3AInterceptor+800|Make%3AHonda

    Size matters... check ID & OD dimensions. OEM sized exhaust gaskets do squish and stick out into the exhaust gas stream with these headers. That’s why Lance and Darryl sourced the larger diameter Delkevic gaskets to help optimize the performance of these headers.  

    • Like 4
  4. 10 hours ago, BiKenG said:

    I have been following this thread with interest, but have rather lost track of what's available.

     

    I am interested in a system that would fit a 5th Gen 800 motor, with 8th Gen front rads and high level underseat mufflers like the 6th Gen. I expect to have to make my own link pipe to the high level mufflers I will be using. Would I be correct in thinking that this is all possible with one of these systems?

     

    If so, then I'd like to place a deposit for final delivery to the UK.

    I think VFRcapn is working through the 8th gen rads on a 5th gen engine using the 8th gen headers. I bought a set of 8th gen headers for a similar reason. The link pipe and undertail silencers will be all you... let us know how it goes!

  5. On 4/21/2020 at 10:36 PM, Rush2112 said:

    ... The reason I asked the question is it has been my experience with stainless steel storage tanks and other equipment we always passivated after polishing the tanks.  I wasn't sure if polishing the headers after passivation could compromise or remove part of the oxide layer and leave the polished headers more susceptible to rust and corrosion.

    On 4/22/2020 at 8:40 AM, TheLimey said:

    I can't see why it would. The net result with passivation and polishing/wire brushing is all the same; you're revealing a fresh top surface of metal to allow the chrome content to oxidise. Once it's reacted with the atmosphere it forms a boundary layer preventing further oxidation beneath it. I think the only benefit of passivation over mechanical methods is it's quicker, removes virtually no material and can get into all the nooks and crannies around the weld beads. 

    I checked with my engineer and passivation and polishing/wire brushing are not the same net effect with 304 stainless steel.  304 stainless steel is more than 50% iron, around 20% chromium and about 10% nickel.  Passivation dissolves the iron on the surface leaving the chromium, nickel, and other trace elements on the surface.  These metals left on the surface oxidize when air dried after the acid treatment and form the protective oxide layer that prevents the iron underneath from oxidizing (rust).  Polishing/wire brushing exposes fresh top surface of metal; in 304 stainless steel this is more than 50% iron so when the oxides form it doesn't make a protective barrier because of all the iron on the surface.  It was explained to me that is why we passivate the equipment in the food processing plants after polishing them.

     

    @Ducnut, your headers look awesome and I congratulate you on getting them to a show bike finish.  304 stainless has corrosion resistance but this resistance decreases as temperatures rise, which unfortunately exhaust pipes get hot.  Also, 304 stainless will corrode when exposed to chlorides at higher temps.  Most of us ride in nice weather so it may not be an issue at all.  If I can offer some friendly feedback, keep them clean, dry, and away from road salt (sodium chloride) to keep them looking great and avoid potential corrosion at the welds... or passivate them before installing.  Your bike, your call.

     

    Have fun and be safe!

    • Like 3
  6. On 4/20/2020 at 10:10 PM, TheLimey said:

    All passivation does is acid etch the surface to restore the chrome oxide layer that's destroyed by the heat of welding, which is what gives stainless steel its high corrosion resistance. It's perfectly normal for the tubing to discolour a little after a few heat cycles.

     

    The passivation is only to stop the headers from rusting at the welds. 

    I'm familiar with passivation.  I've worked in food manufacturing for decades and passivated plenty of stainless steel equipment.  The reason I asked the question is it has been my experience with stainless steel storage tanks and other equipment we always passivated after polishing the tanks.  I wasn't sure if polishing the headers after passivation could compromise or remove part of the oxide layer and leave the polished headers more susceptible to rust and corrosion.

  7. 1 hour ago, MBrane said:

     

    1 hour ago, eyrwbvfr said:

    Same.  Amazon.  M18x1.5.   Hex key drive looks cleaner than hex nut.

     

     

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HR155A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Are these bung plugs short enough where they don't extend into the exhaust stream?

  8. 17 hours ago, SEBSPEED said:

     

     

    Anyone else need a centerstand stop? I've got 3 total interested so far, unless I missed someone. I can do them for $50 each shipped in the lower 48, or $42 plus actual cost to points globally.

     

    I'll try to make a couple extra anyway, but times are tight so I can't sit on a bunch of inventory.

    Hey Seb,

    I hope you and your family are safe and well !

    I’ll take one.  Thanks Man!

    • Like 1
  9. On 3/24/2020 at 6:45 PM, Duc2V4 said:

    Well PMs with tracking numbers have been sent out to all those expecting a header or headers. Please PM me if you were expecting a PM with a tracking number but did not receive it.

     

    CHEERS!

    Look what BEAUTIFUL curves showed up at my house today!

    Box and contents arrived immaculate... thank you for taking such good care packing up my 5th gen goodies.  I think these will become family heirlooms to be cherished by my descendants for generations!

    Lance and Darryl you guys ROCK!!!

     

    1634181264_VFR8005thGenHeadersArrived.thumb.JPG.306bc2128f0de1a88e210d84a403256a.JPG

    • Like 8
  10. 42 minutes ago, sfdownhill said:

    Hello Header Community - I have two important updates on the header project.

     

    First I'd like to say thanks on behalf of Duc2V4 and myself to everyone who has participated in this adventure in any way. Fifteen months ago, all efforts to get a header built for the VFR800 had come to naught - even Duc2V4 and I had mostly given up after numerous rejections and lack of response from fabricators we had contacted. One year ago, a tiny flicker of hope spring to life, the VFR community joined in, and now several dozen VFR owners have an honest-to-goodness performance exhaust solution. It has been awesome hearing from all the guys who have installed their headers and are laughing their butts off from 6000rpm to redline, me and Duc2V4 among them. This could not have happened without every one of you. We'd like to make three other shoutouts - I've mentioned these guys before, but thanks again to CornerCarver for loaning his Two Brothers headers so we could have Wade build a jig, thanks to Hammerdrill for lending us his 6 gen as a test/tune bike, and thanks to SamuelX for allowing us the use of his 8 gen for fitment and dyno testing.

     

    Update #1: We were sorting through our dwindling stock of Delkevic 42mm crush gaskets, separating them into groups of four, and noticed a couple of the gaskets [Five, actually] felt a little bigger to our hands than the rest. Putting the calipers on them revealed that the five crush gaskets in question measured 43.7mm in outside diameter. This is way too big to even begin to fit into the VFR800's exhaust port sleeve.

    *If you received crush gaskets from us and have not yet installed them, please give them a quick check to make sure they are the correct size, which is 41.6-41.8mm od. If you have gaskets whose od is greater than 42mm, please let us know, and we will replace them from our stock while we work out a refund/exchange with Delkevic.

     

    Update #2: We have been trying to make contact with Wade to find out where our next batch of 5/6 gen headers is in his pipeline, and finally got ahold of him today. We have a call with him scheduled for tomorrow and will post a further update as well as send PMs to all those who have deposits in for the current production run of 5/6 gen headers. Sorry for the delay.

    
    boldog új évet everyone!

    [Happy New Year in Hungarian]

     

    Thank you for all you & Duc2V4 have done!!!

    Most people will never realize the amount of work it took to bring this to fruition. The hours, days, weeks, months, years of effort... like having second job but not getting paid for it!  You did what none of us were able to in the past... What you have done is amazing and our community can never thank you enough!

     

    I look forward to hearing from you on the 5th gen headers!

     

    With my sincere gratitude and respect,

    Russ

    • Like 4
  11. On 11/9/2019 at 1:53 PM, sfdownhill said:

    This is strictly a guess on my part, but it might be that RB sets up their autotune system to use the two OEM sensors on VFRs that have two OEM bungs/sensors simply because the two bungs are there, and they both happen to be full of sensors. I think I recall that with RB wideband sensors are an upgrade option, but OEM narrow band can be used - I could be wrong here. Duc2V4 can speak to this [And I hope he will - I'm floundering a bit].

     

    What we hope for 8 gen owners who purchase new headers and are aiming for a RB with autotune is that RB sets up their system for 8 gen to use one 18mm wideband O2 sensor in conjunction with the single OEM sensor in the 12mm bung.

    [Please note the amount of restraint required to not add 'hole' after 'bung']

     

    **Anyone who can help develop a definitive answer to how an 8 gen VFR implements a Rapid Bike autotune system, please do chime in here**

    You are correct, sir... the Rapidbike can use the narrow band OEM sensors with a standard map or the upgrade Autotune with a wideband O2 sensor.

     

     

    Heh, heh, heh... Bung-holio!

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  12. 5 minutes ago, Rush2112 said:

    With this arrangement You can use a single Rapidbike wide band O2 sensor in conjunction with your 2 stock O2 sensors. The Rapidbike will send a constant message to your ECU that everything is cool with the fuel mixture and and you won’t get any error codes for missing O2 sensors while the wide band sensor will adjust the actual A/F ratio to whatever you target. This will keep you from throwing “Check Engine” error codes and entering “Limp Home” mode because the O2 sensors are actually reading a too rich condition (if you target 13.1 A/F ratio for optimum power).

    You are correct though, putting three 18mm bungs would have been more flexible because it would have allowed the use of two wide band O2 sensors for those who wanted too but you would have to have wired in resistors into the stock O2 sensors wiring harness to trick the ECU into thinking the stock sensors are still there.  
    The current set up is the most user friendly and easiest to set up for the greatest number of people. 

    Sorry, 5.5 gen and 6th gen have two stock O2 sensors... I think 8th gen has one. I apologize if I caused any confusion. The same explanation applies though. 

  13. 2 hours ago, Wingate said:

    Hi Guys, just confirming about the bungs on the 8th gen headers, and I preface this by saying I probably should've brought this up earlier, but why not 2X 18mm bungs rather than a (OEM size) 12mm and 1X 18mm? Wouldn't it have been more flexible to have 2X 18mm and just use a reducer if using OEM O2 sensors? (I ask as I have a Rapid Bike Race ready to install once the headers arrive, and would've liked the option of running wide-band sensors; with the 12 and 18 combo, I'll be stuck using the narrow-band, or am I missing something?).

    Continued thanks to SF and Duc2V4 for their Herculean efforts shepherding this through.

    With this arrangement You can use a single Rapidbike wide band O2 sensor in conjunction with your 2 stock O2 sensors. The Rapidbike will send a constant message to your ECU that everything is cool with the fuel mixture and and you won’t get any error codes for missing O2 sensors while the wide band sensor will adjust the actual A/F ratio to whatever you target. This will keep you from throwing “Check Engine” error codes and entering “Limp Home” mode because the O2 sensors are actually reading a too rich condition (if you target 13.1 A/F ratio for optimum power).

    You are correct though, putting three 18mm bungs would have been more flexible because it would have allowed the use of two wide band O2 sensors for those who wanted too but you would have to have wired in resistors into the stock O2 sensors wiring harness to trick the ECU into thinking the stock sensors are still there.  
    The current set up is the most user friendly and easiest to set up for the greatest number of people. 

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