phoenixfire

On 7/31/2017 at 3:31 AM, Auspanglish said:

Quote

Easiest first is radiator cap

 

Occam's razor.  Changed the cap and all is well.

Thanks all!

Hi Ya'll,

Anyone have ideas on how to diagnose a 'hot' engine?

'99 5th gen.  is running close to a temp of 100C at highway speeds (95-99C) aka 212F.

I know it's no cause for alarm as it's a ways away from the max, however, usually this time of year (27C aka 80F ambient) it runs between 78-85C aka 172-185F.

The other weird thing is that the coolant reservoir was empty after I had filled it a few days ago.

Here are the symptoms:

- Before I noticed the higher temps - I saw it was low on coolant.  I filled it (using Honda brand coolant) in between the lower and upper lines when the bike was cold.  After filling, the next ride it leaked a ton of coolant in stop n go traffic (another rider pointed it out).  Figured I put too much in and the bike would find a happy balance on it's own.  

The next few days I noticed the higher temp at highway speeds.  I checked the coolant level again - this time - dry as a bone.  How?  Why would the bike leak out the entire reservoir? 

Oil level is fine (was changed a few weeks ago).

The fins on the rads look okay but haven't taken the fairing off to get an up close and personal look.

The fan kicks in at the correct temp and is working fine.

What else should I be checking?  

What explains the coolant levels of first overflowing and then being empty?

I made a quick install guide:

Howdy folks,

Had a bit of a frustrating time installing my volt meter so I'm sharing my experience so others don't have to feel the same pain.

First, here's what NOT to do.

DO NOT install your volt meter directly to the battery.  Although the meter I got says it draws a minuscule amount of power - after several days of not riding it drained the battery.  I'm sure if you ride everyday it wont be a problem, but why take the chance.

DO NOT touch the frame when you are installing a live wire.   I shorted out one of my fuses when testing one of the connections when the wire accidentally touched the frame.

Ok, now for the fun stuff.

1)  Decide on a mount location

2)  You will want to tie into an existing wire that is triggered by the ignition (eg. headlight, tail light).  That way the volt meter is not drawing any power when you're not riding. 

Decide where you will tie in your live wire (red) and leave enough wire to reach that spot.  I tied into the tail light and snaked the wire along the left fairing and under the gas tank.  

You want to ensure the wire you cut is the one that power runs through.  Check your wiring diagram if you have one, or use a voltage multi meter to test.

2a) Optional - connect a fuse switch to your red wire.  This will prevent a short in case of a faulty connection.

3)  Using an x-acto knife strip the tail light wire about 1/4 inch in length of where you want to tie into.  Be careful to not cut the tail light wire.  The wire is small and in a cramped place so find someone with tiny hands (perhaps The Donald?) to help if you can't get in there.

4)  Wrap the red wire around the now stripped tail light wire.

5) Solder the connection.  Wrap it in electrical tape for good measure.

6)  Connect the black wire to your negative battery terminal.  You'll need to get a solderless electrical terminal to attach to the end of the wire so you have a solid connection to the battery.

7) Done!

Hi All,

Has anyone tried dropping a Yuasa YTZ12S in a 5th gen? (99-01).  I want the extra power because I am hard on my batteries (heated gear, USB, ride in weather below freezing).

The dimensions will fit (YTZ12S is 150x87x110 while YTX12 is 150x87x130)

Would the extra amp hour (AH) cause adverse effect to the electric system?

I don't see why but on the other hand I'm cautious because Yuasa doesn't list it on batteries that would fit a 99 viffer.

Thoughts?

Thanks max, zoomzoom!

Hi All,

So I'm hoping this will be a "I've got a rollerskate you have a key" scenario.

I had to replace my headlight bulb. I didn't bother with cutting the tabs off a generic and just bought the OEM from Honda.

If you've never done this before here are the steps.

1) Unplug the bulb from the electrical housing.

2) Locate the rubber cover underneath the instrument cluster that covers the bulb's plug end and remove it. Be careful not to tear the rubber upon removal.

3) This is the tricky part, but once you know what to do you it's easy - the bulb is held in by a wire that's on a swivel. What you need to do is find the bulbous area of the wire which is on the outermost side, push it inward and counter clockwise. The wire will release up and allow you to take out the bulb.

Here's a trick - if you want to see where the wire is as you're feeling around for it take a picture with a cell phone.

Now here's where I'm stuck - I was able to do all of the above, but when I was re-assembling everything I put the plug into the bulb without installing the rubber cover. When I went to unplug the new bulb I just cant seem to get the damn thing out! Is there a trick to getting the housing off the end of the bulb plug? I can't remember how I did it initally but I did struggle with it a bit so I'm not sure what the trick is to getting it off.

Pull the tab at the bottom to get the rubber seal off:

See the tab in the top right corner - that's what you want to press down and move counterclockwise.

Squeeze the tabs at the side of the electrical housing to get it off.

Hi All,

Can anyone offer some advice on what might be causing my shifting issues?

When shifting quickly between 2nd and 3rd gear I have a hard time getting it to 3rd. If I'm just cruising along and not trying to shift fast it goes into 3rd fine.

The exact order and symptoms are this:

From the top of 2nd gear, pull in the clutch

shift to 3rd

release clutch and hear the engine revving at the top of 2nd.

I changed the clutch fluid last season about 6,000 kms ago.

The chain and sprocket are 1 &1/2 seasons old (about 14,000 kms).

Oil changed about a month ago (1,500kms)

It's a '99.

Any ideas?

Update:

I charged up the battery. This time I took out my voltmeter and tested the voltage - 13.5 after full charge.

I put the battery in and turned the ignition on and the voltage dropped to 11.5.

Then I thought - why not unplug the new bulb. After unplugging the 55W bulb the voltage went back up to about 12.8

I started the bike and it fired up after a few tries (it had been sitting outside in 0 C weather for the past two weeks)

Went to Honda and bought the OEM replacement of 45/45W for the ridiculous price of $50 for a freaking bulb, installed it, bike runs fine. Voltage is fine.

So - now my question is - was it really the extra wattage from the 55W bulb that was causing the issue? Perhaps my battery was a bit low before and it just needed an extra boost?

Hi All,

What would cause your battery to die off of one try at the starter?

The history:

One of my headlight bulbs burnt out. Like a responsible motorist I purchased a new one (60/55W - instead of stock 45/45W)

Installed the new bulb, fired up the bike, rode to my gf's. All was well.

The next day - battery is dead. No lights, nothing.

Took out the battery, charged it fully.

Installed the fully charged battery (correctly. At this point I was double checking everything). Turn the key - lights are on (horray), hit the starter - dead. Lights went away. When I turn the ignition on there's no headlights, only the instrument cluster is lit but very very dim!

What the heck could this be?

Any help would be appreciated. I really don't want to have to tow my bike to the shop.

how long is gas good for?

Watch any post apocolyptic movie and gas seems to last forver. I'm screaming at the screen everytime I watch one of these "gas doesn't last that long!"

Would running a 60/55W bulb drain the battery?

I just replaced my headlight bulb which was 45/45W with a 60/55W (only wattage they had at the part store).

I rode the bike the next day - fine (brighter light). The next morning - the ignition gave me one crack before dying, after that - no electrical, no lights, not even the instrument cluster lit up.

Could it have been the bulb that drained the battery?

I did check the fuses before I changed the bulb (all fine) - perhaps I put them in wrong but I doubt it. Not sure what would cause the battery to drain so fast..

I went with the Pilot Road 3's with the 'B' rated rear. I definitely noticed a difference on gravel and in the wet. Thanks for the recommendations. I plus 1 these.

Will this work?

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/sylvania-silverstar-halogen-headlight-bulb-1-pk-0202877p.html#.Un2wy_GgYak

Hi All,

What tires would recommend for cold weather riding?

I'm planning on ride all year round as long as there's no white stuff / ice on the road. My current tires need to be replaced soon so I'm wondering what tires will provided the best traction for cooler weather conditions?

Ok maybe I'm just stoopid as well but how the heck do you measure the slack if the chain hits the swingarm?

I've read through this entire thread and have not seen a clear answer to this.

Hey All,

In the process of changing my coolant I ended up stripping the bolt that connects the bracket that mounts the fairing to the frame next to the coolant resevouir. The head of the bolt came off and the rest of it is embedded in the hole that goes to the frame. The remaining piece of the bolt is pretty much flush with the end of the hole so I can't really grab onto it with anything.

What would be the best course of action on getting it out? Any ideas?

Thanks everyone for the posts.

I like this idea! Not too invasive. Swfarrar, does the gps sit completely behind the windscreen?

I have Convertibars on my 2004 and there wasn't a place to put a handlebar mount so I went with a RAM ball that bolts to the top of the clutch fluid reservoir. It comes with longer bolts and spacers and taking off the reservoir cover isn't any more complicated than without the mount. On top of that is a RAM 4" arm, though it's actually about 3.5" center to center on the two balls. Then there's a RAM clip-in GPS mount that's specific to my nuvi 500.

It works really well once you get it adjusted properly. It clears the windscreen on a complete sweep, puts the GPS up fairly high but still protected by the windscreen, is out of the line of sight of the instruments and is just above my left hand. I power the GPS from an unswitched Powerlet in the stem.

I have Convertibars on my 2004 and there wasn't a place to put a handlebar mount so I went with a RAM ball that bolts to the top of the clutch fluid reservoir. It comes with longer bolts and spacers and taking off the reservoir cover isn't any more complicated than without the mount. On top of that is a RAM 4" arm, though it's actually about 3.5" center to center on the two balls. Then there's a RAM clip-in GPS mount that's specific to my nuvi 500.

It works really well once you get it adjusted properly. It clears the windscreen on a complete sweep, puts the GPS up fairly high but still protected by the windscreen, is out of the line of sight of the instruments and is just above my left hand. I power the GPS from an unswitched Powerlet in the stem.

Hi All,

Has anyone installed a gps / device mount?

Where did you install it? What positioning is best?

After making several u-turns on my last trip I've decided it's time to 'ask for directions' and mount my android phone.

I'm looking at this so far:

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/ram-b-238-diamond-plate-base-2-25-x-1-25-base-with-1-diameter-ball-required-for-all-device-cradles-when-used-with-a-ram-arm

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/ram-x-grip-universal-spring-loaded-universal-holder-w-1-ball

From the sounds of the responses it seems I've done everything fine.

I did chase the old fluid out with new fluid and made sure to not let the level get below the lower limit mark.

I made sure that no bubbles were coming out of the clear tube before I sealed everything back up.

I even did the zip tie thing for couple hours.

Thanks for the posts and keeping me sane.

How can you tell if your lines are free of air bubbles?

I just change my brake and clutch fluid for the first time. After a happy dance of finally doing it myself someone has now got me all paranoid by saying "if an air bubble crept up in there you wont have any brakes".

I took the bike out right after changing the fluid and the brakes were nice and smooth all the way through. I then practiced some emergency braking and all seems well (slightly better actually).

Can air bubbles show themselves over time or would you be able to notice them right away? Is there any way to ensure the lines are free of air bubbles?

How can you tell if your lines are free of air bubbles?

I just change my brake and clutch fluid for the first time. After a happy dance of finally doing it myself someone has now got me all paranoid by saying "if an air bubble crept up in there you wont have any brakes".

I took the bike out right after changing the fluid and the brakes were nice and smooth all the way through. I then practiced some emergency braking and all seems well (slightly better actually).

Can air bubbles show themselves over time or would you be able to notice them right away? Is there any way to ensure the lines are free of air bubbles?

So it turns out my milage problem was that I was putting around the city too much. I finally got the bike outside of downtown and nearly doubled my milage! I got 270 km / 167 miles on a camping trip. I knew city riding reduced milage but wow what a contrast!

I took the bike back into the shop - did a valve check (nothing needed adjusting whew!) and put it on the dyno. The computer is showing all systems are normal.

So now comes the question - has my nose just gotten more sensitive? Or is it something along the lines of carbon buildup in the exhaust that's causing the smell?

I'm going nuts. I've taken my bike to two different mechanics, both who are highly reputatble. This rich exhaust smell is still happening. Both mechanics said "its a 99, engines just start to stink after a while".

But I can't accept that answer.

The smell has gotten stronger in the last few weeks and my fuel mileage has PLUMMETTED! - I'm getting about 140km (87 miles) / tank - which is about 7km / L / 26 miles / gallon!

I went for a ride without my earplugs and noticed a sound. There's a rattle / farting sound whenever I engage the throttle. I've tried it see if I could hear it when the bike was going a good speed without the throttle engaged and it's definetly only there when the throttle is engaged and shortly after it's closed.

I re-checked the air filter and it's spotless. I checked the choke cable like Anik said and it's fine.

Before I take a wrench to it, does anyone have any other ideas of where I should start with this new information?

Hi all,

What would you suggest to check for when you have symptoms of a rich smelling exhaust?

A few weeks ago I noticed a a strong gas smell from the exhaust. The smell is constant throughout riding the bike and remains after start up. The oil level is fine and the inside of the pipe is not oily. She idles and runs normal. The only difference I can tell is the smell and perhaps some reduced fuel mileage (although I've also changed my sprocket configuration to 16/43 so not sure if the extra fuel cost is in part / solely because of that).

I had yet to change the plugs and air filter since getting the bike from the previous owner so I changed both and they both seemed nearly spotless IMO. I attached pictures, please offer your opinion on their condition. Still after all that the smell remains.

Any help / input would be appreciated.