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KLSpeed27

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Posts posted by KLSpeed27

  1. I recently bought a new RF1000 to go with the new bike...

    I have been using Suomy's for years, the RF fits my head shape much better and is much more comfortable. The ventalation is better as well, and the Shoei feels more aerodynamic on the highway. The only complaint I have with the Shoei is fogging, major fogging, especially in colder weather. I wear glasses and it's a real pain!

    gallery_1635_3475_15871.jpg

    my busa2 001.jpg

  2. Hi Nick,

    Ive tried Bridgestones and Dunlops. Alot of cupping on the BT-20s and I find the dunlops melts too quickly for my kind of driving.

    I am very fond of the Avon Azaro ST Tires.

    They last pretty well, no cupping and good traction for Sport Touring type of driving.

    They have the new Storm model that is out, check it out (it will be replacing the Azaro)

    For more info:

    http://www.avon-tyres.co.uk/motorcycle/?pa...tyres&cat=6

    :unsure: !!!! I love Avons! Try'em out, especially if you commute more than you 'sport', although I had no problems dragging hard parts with them at all! :thumbsup:

    AVONs!!!

    I have been running them for over two years now, they would be perfect for the type of riding you discribed. I typically get about 10,000 miles out of the rear and close to 20,000 from the front!

    Try a set and you'll be hooked too... :thumbsup:

  3. I vote white too! With pearl. White base. clear with a blue fleck, more white, then silver in the final clear. Then THIN silver pin stripe to accentuate the horizontal lines, of the bike.

    I'm with Travis...

    Your current paint scheme is a little too busy, let the lines and curves of the bike do the talking.

    My .02

  4. Whoa! You going to paint those gold calipers a different color?! Nooo!

    I'm sure a lot of people here (myself included) would love to trade their black calipers for your gold calipers. Besides the difference in caliper color between the non-ABS and ABS models, the calipers are exactly the same (at least, I'm 99% sure they are). If you're interested, lemme know! :thumbsup:

    :blink: Keep the gold, they are a good OEM upgrade that looks sharp...don't mess them up. My $.02

  5. Man, I like the look of the Shark a lot!

    I may have to trade-in my Suomy!

    I especially liked the comments in the review about oval head shape vs. round, I have been stuffing my oval head into a round helmet for the last two and a half years.

    Thanks for the info. :thumbsup:

  6. I have two of them, both Gunwinds. They do run small and seem to be designed for round heads rather than oblong heads. Still they are IMHO some of the best looking and lightest helmets on the market, I love mine.

    As for price, I found my last one on ebay and paid $155.00 + shipping. Brand new, in the box!

  7. I solved the problem by getting a short hair cut.  I like my new hairstyle now.  It was roughly 10 years without a change and way overdue.

    My thought exactly...fortunately for us thining hair guys the buzz cut look is in. My hair is all of 1/4" long. Very easy to style. :P

  8. I just did the same thing, not quite as fancy with the zip ties as Tim's, but it worked great.  Here's my manometer, using a total of 32 feet of 1/4" ID clear vinyl tubing, plastic T's, and some fork oil, which happens to be an aesthetic blue (stripped/brushed rims look spiffy, eh?):

    gallery_5784_846_10118.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

    SV Sync 001 800.jpg

    My local pharmacy/hardware place had the 1/4" T's, and these plastic 1/8"-1/4"-3/16" plastic hose adapters, which worked great.  The total materials cost was about $18.

    gallery_5784_846_63963.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

    SV Sync 002 800.jpg

    I went ahead and pulled off all the PAIR stuff and capped the plugs on the valve covers and airbox bottom.  It does feel good to remove some of the rat's nest under there.

    My sync was way, way off.  In fact, the vacuum in #2 was so high that I couldn't use the manometer (would've needed a lot more tubing and would have had to lift it up several feet higher).  So, I scribed a mark on one of the flats of each adjuster, and screwed them all closed to start from scratch.  #1 and #3 each bottomed out at about 3.5 turns, so I opened all three back up the same number.  Much closer, then!  The adjustment is pretty sensitive, just a couple of clicks make a big difference.  Note that the adjusters are really easy to turn by hand if you pull them out while turning (I didn't have a short enough screwdriver, anyway).  I got the levels all pretty close, within a centimeter of oil (probably less than 1mmHg), and they held pretty steady when revving the motor up and down a bit.  The PGMFI light did flash with the MAP sensor disconnected, but it quit when I put everything back together, so I didn't reset the ECM.  I also didn't have to mess with the idle during the sync, although when I was done it had dropped to about 900rpm, so I brought it back up after.

    Hard to believe the bike would've been delivered that far out, I have to wonder if someone didn't screw them up earlier.  I'm the third owner, so there's no way to know for sure.

    The idle and low-throttle response is now much smoother, and with the Turbo City FPR the VTEC runs great.  There's still just a hint of surge cruising at 4,600rpm, but you really have to be looking for it.

    Couldn't help but notice the de-blinged exhaust, looks good. Could you post a couple of pictures of your wheels, I've been thinking about polishing the rims just the way you have done yours.

    Thanks

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