coderighter

6K same temperature as the sunlight. I have used them, they are great and work better in fog. Unfortunately in Europe are not legal. It is better to buy the bulbs separately. The bulbs of a kit are usually of low quality. Can you recommend a good place to get bulbs? I just bought them from a local store. The original (Chineze) bulbs had bad geometry and after 350 hours of use lost 40% of the initial luminosity. About the cost; there are three categories cheap 15, good 35, best 55 euro each bulb, but these are prices in a local store more than a year ago. You seem pretty bright about this HID thing.(Sorry, bad pun) Maybe you can answer why some H4 low bulbs have a shield on bottom, while some have a cap on the end with a short tail down the bottom, while still others have nothing at all. Which type am I after for my 6th Gen?

You sure about the name, couldn't find them on ebay. Normally, I avoid those who change little for product but a lot for shipping since it limits any refunds or returns to the purchase price, which is why they do this. The cost should be $39.00 and the shipping $9.00 dollars. They way they do it any return or refund would be $9.00 (the purchase price). That being said, if you had good luck with them, I'd like the name. I always thought they did that to reduce the Ebay charges, I guess it's a double win for them. lately Ebay hasn't been the super saver it was in the past. i regularly find stuff cheaper on online stores when I'm looking for something specific and special. I think the most important thing is that the pattern is even and that they're no spikes in the pattern. On the kit that I bought, the bulbs came with a blinder on them to block the bulbs light output from the bottom of the headlight assembly, this is important because the light from the bottom is projected up, and gives a highbeam effect. when I did all my hunting on the internet the slim ballasts all look the same and are probably made in the same factory in china. I did notice a difference in the bulbs, wether they had a blinder and how the blinder was shaped, was the only real variable. I would imagine that since the slim ballast are solid state; if you get a set that works at the beginning they'll last forever, but I would also assume that they have a high defective rate from the factory given their low cost, keep that in mind when picking a seller. Good point, never thought about the Ebay charges. I've noticed three types of H4 bulbs. Ones with the shield, like yours. The ones with the hood that has a tail. And the ones with nothing. Has anyone ever used the ones with the hood?

Okay I get it. The issue is more with the PC V's programming or the Autotunes programming. Are you planning on going to Gear by Gear mapping as it still sounds like it would help with this issue. Also is there a load offset map that would allow you to offset the rpm ranges across the cells when you us gear by gear maps? Then the 6th gear maps could have more resolution at the lower load ranges (say every 5% instead of 10%, until you pass 30%). Still Gear by gear would be the best way to handle this, since as you pointed out low load conditions vary the most as you go up and down through the gears. I know that bikes don't have Air flow meters, but not all car systems do either. A lot of race systems are 'speed density' and work from "known" airflow calculations. I used them on turbo motors as high boost could exceed the metering capabilities of a small mass air and a large one would not have enough sensitivity at low flow. I am doing gear by gear, which is by far the best way to go. All the map resolutions are the same but remember the PCV gives you the added 15% throttle that the PCIII doesn't have. I would say that it's more of a hardware issue with the PCV. If it had a provision for monitoring manifold vaccum this "problem" wouldn't be a issue. By the way, all the Autotune programming is part of the PCV. The Autotune is just a dumb wide band sensor feeding A/F ratio info to the PCV. I bought my Autotune back in May when they were just coming out and the box actually had a Autotune sticker over a Wide Band 2 label and the warranty card inside was for a Wide Band 2. I don't know this for a fact, but you may be able to connect a Wide Band 2 to a PCV, enable Autotune feature, and it just might work. Of course they may add a special device ID for the bus that stops you from cheating like that. If anybody out there has a Wide Band 2 and buys a PCV, they should try it and pass on the info. I they cost the same. The advantage would be if you all ready had the Wide Band 2.

You sure about the name, couldn't find them on ebay. Normally, I avoid those who change little for product but a lot for shipping since it limits any refunds or returns to the purchase price, which is why they do this. The cost should be $39.00 and the shipping $9.00 dollars. They way they do it any return or refund would be $9.00 (the purchase price). That being said, if you had good luck with them, I'd like the name. I always use a vendor called "zgperformance" on ebay. $55 a set with free shipping. (I also prefer to pay for the item and get free, or cheap shi[pping just in case. I have bought over a dozen sets from him now over the past year. I even bought one set for a friend who didn't want the blue tint. I ordered the 3000K for him, but they were too yellow. This vendor allowed me to send back the bulbs and get them swapped for a different color, at NO CHARGE even though the change was our choice. HID kit Thanks for the tip. I noticed the listing is for $59.99. Is did you "best offer" him $55.00 and he accepted?

You sure about the name, couldn't find them on ebay. Normally, I avoid those who change little for product but a lot for shipping since it limits any refunds or returns to the purchase price, which is why they do this. The cost should be $39.00 and the shipping $9.00 dollars. They way they do it any return or refund would be $9.00 (the purchase price). That being said, if you had good luck with them, I'd like the name.

Hell yes! That's what I'm talking about ^^^^^ So - silly question, may have already been answered, can you use a PCIII map on the PCV? IE - the Coyze map??? Yes and no. No you can't directly load it but you can copy and paste the tables from the PCIII file to a PCV file. You have to then average 10% throttle and 20% throttle to fill in the 15% throttle, since the PCIII doesn't have the 15% column. Load it and go.

6K same temperature as the sunlight. I have used them, they are great and work better in fog. Unfortunately in Europe are not legal. It is better to buy the bulbs separately. The bulbs of a kit are usually of low quality. Can you recommend a good place to get bulbs?

So....which bulb, 5k or 6k. I know 5k has more light but the slight blue in the 6k might get someones attention before they hit me,....... or maybe not.

I'm not sure why Honda decided to purge the canister when they do, but I hooked a really bright LED to the connection for the solenoid and it is what it is. My experience with cars, is they purge under high vacuum, which makes more sense to me since the mixture is less critical. Besides nothing pulls air (purges) better than high vacuum. Maybe EPA thought that hydrocarbons introduced in the engine at high vacuum, won't get burned good enough. After all, they're making manufactures shut the fuel off at zero throttle (above highest possible idle of course). The problem has nothing to do with the bike ECM. It's operating correctly. When your decelerating it goes lean to lower emissions and save gas. The bike can go lean when it's not under load, nothing will be harmed, it's a win, win. The problem is the Power Commander only looks up a mixture correction map based on throttle position and engine RPM. It has no way of knowing engine load, especially when you're not doing gear-by-gear mapping. Image, 1st gear down a steep hill, 10% throttle, 4k rpm. Well, that would be deceleration to the bikes ECM, lean mixture (>15 to 1). Now, level ground, 6th gear, 10% throttle 4K, ECM see engine under load, much richer mixture (around 13.5 to 1). Well the Power Commander only see the RPM and throttle position. To the Power Commander, there is no difference and the Autotune it will try and fix the lean mixture to match the table. Now this an extreme example, just to illustrate my point. Having gear-by-gear Power Commander maps will help a lot. The Power Commander only knows where the throttle is at, not which direction its traveling or how fast, as it pertains to mapping. It does look at it for their 'accelerator pump' feature, which works well. I currently have that feature turned off because I'm trying to pin down a really good base map. One of the most important differences between autos and bikes, is that bikes don't have airflow meters. This is very important. If you do a stuff to make the bike breathe better, it has no way of knowing. You'll make an already lean mixture, leaner. If you make a car breathe better, the airflow meter will see the increased airflow and tell the ECM to toss a little more fuel in, hence the power gain. All of this is with reason of course.

Where did you get the flasher? Can you adjust the number of pre-flashes?

I've noticed the same thing. My VFR engine brakes a lot harder the my ZRX did. Do you think it a VTEC thing? 8 valves instead of 16?

Freudian slip? :rolleyes: :biggrin: :laugh: Now that's funny! Guess I'm going to have to stop posting so late at night.

Huh, interesting. Perhaps not such a silly idea after all.

Look...you're never going to get the entire driving public to give you some magical, mythical following distance where you feel comfortable with your vacuum tail light. I don't seem to have this problem with slowing down and drivers tailling me, cuz I go fast until it's time to slow down or stop. But if you want to put this wacky thing on your bike, go ahead and do it. You'll be the only bike in the universe with a vacu-brakelight, and you'll be happy. If you were taught downshift like MotoGP to slow for traffic stoppages, well, maybe your instructor was wrong. But yeah, we all downshift as we slow, to have the ooomph to go when the time comes. We do the same thing in cars all the time. Everyone downshifts...including modern cars with auto transmissions. But it's not to slow down, for the most part. It's to be ready to GO. Or you could increase rear tire wear with this method of slowing down, if you want. It's your tires. Do it. The legality comment was about multi-colored lights, which I think was poking fun at your entire "slowing down light" concept. Brake lights are legal, regardless of how you apply them. After all, some dimwits ride the brake in their Escalades all the time, and they never get tickets...so it must be legal, right? As for the rest of us, it appears that we don't think it's a useful invention. But what IS a useful invention is Hyper-lites or any of the other bright, flasher systems that are available for minimal cost. Those DO get driver's attention with a touch of your brakes, which is what you're supposed to be using anyway. If those devices don't get someone's attention, then you're doomed anyway. Life is like that. Maybe you shouldn't be doing these long, gradual slow-downs that get drivers on your ass, wondering why you don't keep up with the flow of traffic. Just go quickly and then brake when you need to. And drivers are going to get on your ass, regardless of what you do, Hyper-lites or not. They don't care that you're on a bike. That's the way it is. Or install your vacu-light. I think the subject has been beaten to death at this point. You've argued against every point that anyone has made against this silly idea, so just go ahead and do it. Set the vacuum at 5 inches so the light will come on when you get off the throttle in 6th gear at 50 mph. :huh: Be safe out there......or get a car. Wow,.... feel better. It was just an idea. There were a couple members that were intrigued, obsessively you were not, and that's OK. Based on the feedback I got (which I did ask for), I'm probably not going to try this, but who knows, I might get bored someday and give it a try. I figured I could make it happen for around $20 and wanted to see if anyone thought it had any safety value. I'm sorry if anyone thought I was arguing against their point. That wasn't my intent. I just thought the "D" in VFRD was for discussion. I know how to make this switch install happen. If you'd like the info, PM me and I'll share it with you. Other then that, I guess we can consider this topic beat to death and closed. I don't want to upset anybody else with this silly idea.

What is the purpose, if your using enough engine braking to were your going to get run over without brakes , I think you got to readress some issue. The issue I'm trying to address is the seemly endless parade of dumb ass drivers that only react to a reduction in following distance with a bright-light-wake-up. I've noticed if I slow down with out a brake light, people will let the following distance close right up, at least until they see a brake light. My goal is more to get them to maintain a safe following distance. I my book, the only thing worse than going down, is getting run over. Ending up under a car, never goes well.

Sorry if I helped to the :laugh: But I do agree with you except for the setpoint for it to come on.. 6Krpm is 6K no matter what gear your in the vacumn at closed throttle will be the same. you could easily use a EGR valve off a car, attaching the switch to the exhaust gas bypass pin and using a vacumn line from just about anywhere on the motor to activate it.. Im not sure if they sell Adj vacumn swithches but a EGR valve should be easy to come by in a junk yard ($5 ?) and should already be somewhere close to the vacumn pressure you will need. Others might know more about the best way to do this or in your research.. Hummm.... I think you might be right about the vacuum levels, I might have to play around with it this weekend. I just need to find a set point that makes the light come on when the engine is acting in the same manner as brakes. I all ready have an adjustable vacuum switch in mind. I'm currently using one to turn my Autotune off when I'm decelerating to prevent it from trying to correct the mixture under deceleration. It adjusts from 6in hg to 24 in hg.

I think this thread has been hijacked, but I'd like to address a couple things First, I was taught to always downshift when coming to a stop for 2 reasons. The first is so that you are always in a gear to accelerate quickly if the need a raises. The second being the nature of motorcycle transmissions are that it's really best that you engage all gears up and down. I've been told, pulling in the clutch and down shifting 4 or so gears without ever releasing the clutch between, is not the best thing for the tranny. Is this not true? As far as installing a vacuum switch to light the brake light not being legal, how would they ever know that the brake light went on because of the vacuum switch or because you tapped the brake? All anyone would notice is that the bike slowed down and the taillight came on, makes sense to me. Why, in a world of people riding around with aftermarket pipes (most minus inserts), would they ever question what made the brake light come on when a motorcycle slowed down? :laugh: So the question remains, but let me clairify. The switch would be set rather high. High enough so that you could close the throttle at 5 grand in 6th and there wouldn't be enough vacuum to close the switch, not alot of engine braking there. However, you close the throttle at 6 grand in 3rd, you're going to feel the engine braking and the bike will pull a greater vacuum closing the switch and lighting the "brake light". I'm not talking about having the light come on whenever you close the throttle, only when there's enough engine braking to compare to actually using the brakes. How could this be a bad thing?

I think the reason cars don't have it is because a large percent are automatics with little engine breaking. Even the cars with a manual transmission don't have near the engine breaking a sport bike has with it's higher compression and much higher RPM. I remember an early '70's Datsun pick-up I had with 4 wheel drum brakes that couldn't whoo-up using the brakes as fast as I can with engine braking on my viffer. You won't get close enough to see my taillight on the twisties! Well, not really, I pretty slow ( I have a wife and 10 year old son to think about). I'm sure most folks will be ahead of me. I'll think about the hyperlites. Thanks for the link

Thinking about it more, it would be really great when you're going down the freeway and you see traffic slowing ahead. I typical pop down to 4th or 5th and glide in instead of running up and hitting the binders. It's that long engine braking that I think this would be good for. Also each time you pop down a gear coming to a little traffic light, the brake light would flash. Yeah, you can tap the brakes, and I usally do, but this would just an extra for those times you choose not to tap'em, for whatever reason. Just a couple extra thoughts.

What if I used a vacuum switch set real high, like 22+ inches, to make the brake light come on when you're under heavy engine braking? How about maybe just lighting 1 of the 2 bulbs? Would there be any thing wrong with doing this?