coderighter

Or you taking about K&N 33-2700?

For those that don't like cotton gaze and would rather go paper- K&N 33-2700 fits the following: 1988-1998 SUZUKI VITARA 1.6L L4 F/I - 257MM x 206MM 1989-1995 SUZUKI SIDEKICK 1.6L L4 TBI - All 1989-1995 GEO TRACKER 1.6L L4 TBI - VIN U I'm guessing since K&N filter are usaully not as thick, make sure the paper filter you find is less than an inch thick. (Ironic that it's a filter for a Suzuki)

Did my instrutions make it pretty easy or was there something else I should have added?

pWon't work on '06 and newer because the single filament bulb in front is both the turn signal and the running light.

Sure, if it stops raining here!

I actually had BMC and I didn't like the way it was just a standard panel filter snapped into a frame. That would be so bad but it was even a very tight fit and would leak 'dirt' no problem. I also didn't like that it also had the element protruding into the air box instead of the lid. The frame of the panel comes within about an inch of the front stacks and I felt it would not allow the correct amount of air to maintain the balance front to rear. Frankenfilter protrudes up the same height as factory and is level on the bottom just like the factory.

If you look at the K&N filter for 6th (and 5th) gen VFR you'll notice that the actual filter size is much smaller than the factory filter. The K&N has about half the surface area of the factory filter. K&N knows that because the bike doesn't have an airflow meter it has no way of accounting for any extra air flow. K&N makes their filter flow the same as stock so as not to disturb (further) the air/fuel ratio. Since K&N's filter medium flows more than the factory paper filter, they simply made the filter area smaller to even things out. Which means, by design, the K&N filter buys you no performance gain, zip, zero, nota. However, it's the last filter you have to buy because you can wash and re-oil it. K&N Filter I also don't like K&N's design for the VFR. By making the element smaller, it's now centered over the rear throttle bores while the tops of the front bores are covered with plastic. On the factory filter, the element protrudes up into the air box cover. The K&N element protrudes down into the airbox. These two things would make me believe the front cylinders would have a harder time getting air and would be rather rich compared to the rears. Beside, Frankenfilter was almost half the price and you get that factory fit.

Franken Filter So.... you get a K&N #33-2700. I got my from Auto Advance, $43.99 - 20%=$35.20 (they're almost always having a 20% off sale online). If you spend $75, free shipping, so I topped off my oil filter collection. Auto Advance has no stores in the great state of Washington, so no sales tax. The filter is pretty much the exact width and 1/2" short. First I gutted the paper out of the factory filter. Then sanded the sides down to a height of 1/4". . DSCN1502 I added these wooden 'bridges' that I got at Wally World for a $1.49, they're 1/4" square. DSCN1501 Trimmed the filter edges to match the opening. I used heavy duty scissors. You'll also have to sand about 1/32" off each of side rails on the gutted frame for the filter to drop in. Don't force the filter in or you'll distort the filter frame. DSCN1500 DSCN1499 I glued the filter to the frame using Loc-tite 2 part plastic super glue. Sealed everything up with RVT (high temp only because it's black). DSCN1504 My Autotune is now asking for +9% at 100% throttle at 10k, but needs more road time to get the full picture. It feels stronger. Notes: I wouldn't do this with out a Power Commander to add more fuel. If you're using a O2 sensor (Autotune), make sure all you're glues/sealants are sensor safe