DownAndOutNYC

I believe that most of the times the master link tools break is because they are used to try and "break" the chain, and most are under engineered to do that. That's what I've noticed anyway. It would be very tough to break a master link tool by swaging the master link pin over. Like I've heard over the years: "There's never enough money to do it right, but there's always enough money to do it over."

That's what I hear too. But if it was the right tool for the job in the first place, why is it breaking while trying to use it for what it was made for?

Because sometimes the "right" tool for the job is nothing more then a over priced, alluring tool for the job.

Yes, there are some tools that you just cannot substitute with anything else, but this isn't one of them. Especially considering one of the biggest gripes I always hear concerning master link riveter tools, is just how easily they break.

If you simply install a regular 8000K halogen bulb and do a side by side comparison with a regular halogen bulb, both of same wattage, and aim it at a garage door from 20 feet away, you'll observe the regular halogen bulb puts out a well defined cut-off pattern. The 8000K bulb on the other hand would not have that same well defined cut-off pattern. You'll find light bleeding into the area above the cut-off pattern. This is due to light scatter at the higher color temperatures. Now if you switch those bulbs to HIDs of same color temps, the same effect is amplified due to the higher lumens (brightness) output. This means you will not only be throwing glare into oncoming traffic, but also with greater intensity.

I've been "into" HIDs/xenons for several years and have never heard what you describe. What is your source for this? I've never heard of anyone referring to halogens by color temperature, either. Nor does it make sense to me that the color temperature would affect the direction of the reflected light above the cut-off. But I'm happy to be proven wrong...

Ciao,

You haven't heard of it because it is incorrect.

Halogen reflectors by design have some light bleed above the cutoff line. The reason this light bleed is so much more apparent with a HID is because of just how much more light a HID outputs compared to a halogen bulb. That is also why using a simple drop in kit is never the right way to do it, because you will have light above the cutoff and will be causing too much light/glare for oncoming traffic. No shield around the HID bulb will prevent this, unless you block off the portion of the halogen reflector used for the high beam entirely.

I too recommend the Morimoto Mini retrofits http://www.theretrof...products_id=237. True bi-xenon, simple to install, no glare for oncoming traffic, and best of all, a reflector and projector that was made for a HID light source, so no compromise on light output or spread.

Looks like a camera mount, though it must be a small camera (bullet video cam?) since it appears to mount on the underside.

You could also just buy a aftermarket flasher already made for low loads such as LED lights, as well as the same type/pin out of your stock flasher.

http://autolumination.com/

There are a few other places to source such items as well besides Autolumination.

Hey hey hey! No ridiculing the farkleness! But still has abit of a ways to go compared to my previous F4. GPS, FM/CD/MP3 player (at first it was a car dash unit with speakers, then upgraded to a portable with in ear monitors), V1 mounted on the rear view mirror stalk with the remote display mounted on the wind screen, custom (by me) retrofit HID (NOT the cheap drop in bulb replacements), grip heaters, 2-way Scorpio alarm, custom (by me) LED license plate light, extra LED rear brake light bar (similiar to what you have now, same as what I have on my VFR), and remote GPS antenna mounted under the fairing in the rear cowl. :salesman:

I'm just sad I dont have enough time to do the same to my VFR. Its sitting there soooo neglected. I think it needs a extra wire somewhere.... :rolleyes:

Very interesting. I have the same mirror extenders, and plenty of LEDs sitting around from my other projects. I may have to copy your idea before you patent it. :salesman:

I believe the reflector construction is unique for HID vs quartz bulbs. ?Dropping a HID bulb into a reflector setup made for quartz will not make it a HID light.

Whole light assembly replacements are available for some sedans but I have never seen one for motorcycles. ?Probably a volume thing.

IMHO.

You are correct!

But I also believe you mean "halogen bulbs" and not "quartz", since HID capsules are also made from quartz glass. :D

And whole light assemblies are available for many vehicles if thier out of country twins have them available. Take the VW Golf for instance. In the US, they are only supplied with the standard Halogen based assemblies. However, in the Euro, better equiped, better lighting nations, they have the assemblies available with lo-beam HIDs. Thier pratically a drop in replacement with the US spec models, aside from a different harness plug and some extra wiring (leveling motor).

And the reason motorcycles may never get HID (or at least not for a long time to come) is because of space and weight concerns, not to mention cosmetic. But thats not stopping me from retrofitting my two wheels. :wheel:

HID conversion [aka drop-in kits] are illegal

Where did this come from? ?Why?

Its always been. Its just that now because of 30,000+ complaints, the law is finally being enforced.

Just a little correction. Phillips only makes 4100K and 6000k bulbs. Any other Kelvin rating and your more then likely getting a cheap asian knockoff that will burn out/die prematurely.

And 5200K, 6000K is not the brightest. The standard 4100K capsules have the highest Lumens. The higher up in Kelvin you go, the less Lumens (usuable light) you will have. 8000K and higher HID capsules are a waste since they put out as much Lumens (and less as you go higher in K) as the brightest Halogen bulbs.

For those of you who dont want to go down the HID route, I suggest putting in some Sylvania Silverstar or Phillips Vision Plus halogen bulbs in your rides. Thier the brightest bulbs (Lumens) you can get. Much cheaper, and not to mention brighter (Lumens) then any of the $40+ each "ricer" tinted bulbs.

BTW, I recommend avoid Mr. Junk. Too many bad stories and pratically all he supplies is asian market hardware. Really cheap products that die an early death too many times. Not to mention that the NHTSA sould be getting in contact with him real soon, if they havent already. HID conversion [aka drop-in kits] are illegal No Classifieds On The Forum. Fines of $15,000 per bulb/$30,000 per kit sold are being enforced on all HID sellers. So all those rebased HID capsules are slowly going away. By the time a quality (Phillips) rebased capsule burns out, you'll have a hard time finding a replacement. And if you do, I hope your wallets ready for the hit.

But if you still want to go with a drop-in kit, stick with the name brand Phillips bulbs and Hella ballast.