Parker
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Posts posted by Parker
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Couple other questions for you 4th geners:
Slide needles were shimmed with a washer on each. Is that stock or a previous owner mod?
Looked like Keihin jets too my layman's eyes. What are the stock sizes?
The air mixture screws had no plugs covering them. Is that stock, or were they removed?
Two were at 2 1/4 turns out, and the others were 2 and 1 3/4 out. I told him start with all at 2 1/4. Hows that sound?
He said it was stock exhaust, so I'm guessing there was no jet kit. But I'm wondering about the needle shims and air mixture screws just for my personal curiosity.
I completely missed this thread when it kicked off but well done for getting one of these for nix.
The shims on the needles are not stock but are a common mod (usually 0.010") to get rid of the lean patch/ flat spot in the 5-6K rpm range where the noise testing is done.
I can't remember off the top of my head what the pilot screw settings are (the manuel will give this detail) but 2 1/4 sounds about right, they should have rubber blanking plugs on them. The photos show a stock pipe.
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Seb has a thread about a product called Plastiweld that he used to fuse a tail together on a 4th gen project bike. My tail broke in a similar way besides I lost that whole tab and everything. The tail light was loose and the right turn signal was falling out of the housing almost. I used this product to make the tail 1 big piece and had to use it as a filler in some places due to how bad it cracked.
The issue with getting it right isn't what you use so much as how accurate you are in setting all 719 parts together in such a way that the end result both fits the rear subframe properly and doesn't put too much stress on one or more individual parts.
Well that's my excuse anyway...
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this one right?
That be the one (yours is held together by chain gunk
by the looks of it) -
Yamaha R1 unit, had one on mine for 8+ years and never a problem (touch wood
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Wot he sed ^^
Plastex is what I use (same stuff different label)
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Is this wobble only there with hands off the bars? Or there with hands on but more pronounced with hands off? Apart from tyres and wheel balance the hands-off 40-50mph bar wobble was frequently noted some years back, usually found to be a combination of tyre type (Dunlop 207s were the worst) and poorly set-up or shagged suspension. The worst was usually worn rear tyre plus shot rear shock.
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Beck, if it's the screws I'm thinking of they screw into a sort of captive nut that clips onto the cowl piece that sits under the rear lights. I'm only guessing here but if the loctite is only bonding metal-metal perhaps the off-gassing isn't such an issue.
You're lucky you caught this when you did. It's happened to me (about a year ago) - was out on a 2-day ride with mates, stopped at a servo for fuel, checked luggage and that's when I saw the rear right side had come adrift leaving the tail light cluster flapping about, which subsequently stripped the brass insert out of its plastic housing that holds the taillight cluster to the lower cown and rear/side panel. I've fixed the brass insert/ plastic lug three times now but it keeps all disassembling itself and now the brass insert on the other side is working loose. It's a PITA to get right once broken even once but when I eventually get it all buttoned up properly I'm going to get it all 714 bits that make up the side/rear panels professionally glued up.
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Hi Chris....
Did think about splitting it all.. but because of the silly postage costs for overseas its a little impractical for a replacement part which may be perfect, some parts are not but work OK when on bike.
Most of the time buyers are unhappy, i know i was, as they hope for perfect 17 yr old parts.... unlikely. One has to make do.
Ebay aint what it used to be.. smothered in big businesses selling and flooding out the little guys.
If you're thinking of splitting your kit rather than selling as a job lot, I'll join the queue
I need the rear/ side panel set (both sides), been looking on fleabay in Oz for some time but no joy so far. Send me a PM if this floats your boat.
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I believe that is the mounting point. I don't believe it mounts to the rear peg. Anyone else?
On mine it does so there's the 2-piece clamp at the collector box pipe, then the pillion peg, then the rearmost point.
@ 72525 maybe either the rear point or the pillion peg (or both) is bent slightly?
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@ New2This, looks like a total strip down job. Get all the crap off, if you've got new wiring coming you don't have to worry too much about what's on there. R/R and the connector block is forked, get shot of it then go right back through to the stator and check that once you've fixed up the wiring. I looked at the pix and couldn't hel wondering if this was once a decent bike - polished wheel rims - that ended up in the wrong hands and was subsequently butchered.
o/t that white 93 mentioned looks worth salvaging if it's straight, panels alone will fetch good $$ if they're as good as they look.
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Ok I got the tank off, the rear fairing and that black "pos" on the front. There is no snorkel for the air box and the R/R is melted (isn't that the black deal by the rear brake reservoir?
Snorkel isn't a huge deal. Without pics it's hard to tell whether what you are describing is the R/R but from the position it certainly sounds like it. Don't bother with OEM, get one off an R1 or similar - something with a 5-wire set up (+ve, -ve + 3 from the stator) with big f*ck-off fins, then mount it somewhere it will get good airflow (i.e. not behind the panelwork). If the r/r is toast expect similar wreckage in the rest of the charging circuitry inc. connector blocks, wires and elsewhere.
While you're there get the Electrosport bike charging system fault finder here:
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/diagnosis-center/fault-finding-guide
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I see Roy's (zRoyZ) chimed in, so here's where the first USD coversion he did on his VTEC ended up when he sold the bike:
Here's the spec sheet for the original VFR1 http://www.vfrdiscus...pic/38679-vfr1/
Pretty much the whole thing went in as is, though there was some fiddling with moving oil cooler, shaving the inner fairing, moving cables, pipes etc
Is it worth it? Let's face it any improvement on the stock suspension and brakes has to be worth every cent - both are critical in keeping you out of trouble and as anyone with any sense will tell you, the only two things the last and best 750s need are decent brakes and suspension. The F4i swap - adjustable suspension, much better brakes - is one of the easier and cheaper options, uses Honda parts (so no faffing about with different axle specs, disc spacing, wheels, wheel bearing sizes) and will make a helluva difference.
Is it worth spending so much on a USD set up on a bike this old? In my view the question answers itself - the people who do this sort of thing aren't about to sell their bike so resale figures are irrelevant. In the end it comes down to turning a great bike into a fantastic one. As I said to Roy when I first rode mine with the R1 front, it feels like I've suddenly got 2-3 seconds extra per corner - the $$$ spent automatically justifies itself. The brakes are brilliant, but the irony is that cos the handling is so good I use them less than I did on the OEM set up. It steers much quicker yet is utterly stable (no hands-off headshakes at any speed) and it doesn't chew front tyres anywhere near as much. It will keep up with any modern sports bike in the twisties - or would if I wasn't such a pi$$-poor rider.
And it looks mint
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I get the arguments about spending $$$ on something like this vs. spending the same or less on one that's reasonably intact, but I'm not sure that's the point. Tearing this thing down and fixing it up might give you headaches but you learn a helluva lot in the process.
And let's face it anything you do to this thing will be an improvement
Best of luck with it
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Ta for the write-up AB, like you I had a ball. Day 3 was the best of the lot, Elliotts was fun and the blast along the Yellow Brick Road was mental :lobby:
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In my research I found these bore sizes:
R1 = 14mm
954 = 17mm
929 = 19mm
SP1 = 19mm
SP2 = 17.5mm
Wondering what folks have used? If I use R1 calipers, I'd like to keep proper brake feel.
IIRC the R1 MC/perch doesn't have a brake switch, so I'd have to figure that out.
Thanks in advance-
Hi Raoul
Like Muz says, I am the proud and totally chuffed owner of the R1 set-up Roy built for his VTEC. It's been on the bike jsut over a year now, and I've done several big tours with the OzVFR crew, including a 12-day marathon in Tasmania (Godzone for Oz motorcyclists). I ranted and raved about it on my first ride home with it, and the more I ride it the better it gets (see also the pics in that thread).
Specifics - the m/cylinder is off an RC51 (SP1). I've still got the OEM clutch m/cyl on so it looks a bit odd, but so what. AFAIK the Convertibars are the 50mm and are a way way better thing than HeliBars as they're adjustable every which way. One tricky bit was getting the wheel and brake rotor spacing right as the CBR954 lower/ SP1 upper triple clamps are different to the spacing you get with the stock R1 triple clamps.
Any more questions feel free to ask away, but maybe PM me and I'll reply quicker.
Best of luck.
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Good one 94VFRoregon :fing02:
Can I also add that if you've taken the rear fairings off recently, it's worth checking you've re-connected the connector block on the LHS that feeds to the rear indicators, tail-lights and brake lights. DON'T ask me how I know about this :pinocchio:
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Gazman, that is dead brilliant, easily the best naked 3rd gen VFR750 I've seen. :fing02: :fing02:
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106 000km (~65,000miles) on my '96 VFR750.
Just about run-in then :huh:
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By 'eck, 'twere a Grand Day Out.
Thanks to JohnS for the idea and the err... planning :angry:
Thanks to everyone who turned up (many more so than I expected) :angry:
Thanks to the Weather Gods
Thanks to AB for persisting with duff camera equipment
And thanks to Mr Honda for inventing the VFR750 :angry:
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Roy
Very very very nice job, as usual. Colour scheme is errr, individual :unsure: :P but looking forward to seeing it in the metal.
:unsure:
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Parker,
Glad you took the step to bring back some suspension into your realtionship!
Me too :P
Pictures (springs a purple right?) are in order!Actually the spring is blue :beer:
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Gents (especially jstanwood and dutchy) - thanks for the info you've put in on this thread :thumbsup: . After saving all my pennies I recently junked the OEM shock (rebuilt and regassed, which lasted all of 9000km till it started flopping about again) and got a Willbers (actually a TechnoFlex, which is a Willbers made under licence in the Netherlands) fitted. It's the model without the remote preload which was all the budget allowed for at the time, with the can mounted on the left rear footpeg hanger. Having looked at the work that's gone on above, I might see if I can mount it elsewhere.
I'd been told that if I fitted a decent rear shock it would make the front work a lot harder - given I had a set of 0.9 racetech front springs sitting in the shed, I got the team who fitted the rear to also fit the harder springs and fiddle with the damping/valving at the front to suit, so now at least the front doesn't bottle out when it's asked to do some work.
The chap who tweaked the rear shock settings and worked his magic on the front was James at Zenodamper, with much able assistance from someone quite well known on this site
It has since been, errr, extensively test-ridden :P
Over four days and almost 3000km with the OzVFR mob, with loads of tight, bumpy 35/45km/h twisties, lots of 55/65 bends and miles of open 85/95km/h sweepers, the bike didn't put a wheel wrong. Where before it would have wallowed or juddered or just felt unsure and vague, this time it just felt utterly composed, no matter what I threw at it. The ride is certainly a lot stiffer than before, but a bit of tweaking will get me to a decent compromise. It might still be a little slow-steering in the really tight stuff, but the trade-off is absolute confidence in faster bends and in the sweepers. It might be just my imagination, but it felt like my corner entry speed was a good 10% up and I could get on the gas much earlier in a bend without worrying that the bike was going to go off somewhere I didn't want it to.For now, I'm happy with the set-up I've got, it's made me much more aware of what a stonking road bike a VFR is, even a 12 year-old bike like mine. That's not to say I don't look at all the USD fork conversions around and dream, mind :idea3:
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Other people have "upgraded" to R/R's from other bikes, like Yamahas and Suzukis. These would be easy to ebay for a few bucks, but I can't remember which one to tell you to look for, sorry.
I replaced a stuffed unit on my '96 with a secondhand one off a scrapped Yam R1 2 years ago, no problems since. These are units made by (I think) Mitsui Corp. and are, as far as I can tell, some of the more reliable units out there.
REBUILDING MY '96
in Third and Fourth Generation VFR's
Posted
So the lights came from Canada but the clocks could be US or UK (both MPH) though IIRC UK clocks would have MPH (primary) and KPH (secondary).