VIFFER93

On engines, it's a must to have as good a ground as close as possible to the piece being welded! Otherwise, the current from the welder will arc across the main bearing sufaces if the ground is not adjacent.

As for stuck exh. studs, nuts, etc, it helps to tighten it just a tad prior to loosening. Sometimes a pair of vice grips will do the trick too.

Thanks for the tip~

Vise grips with sharp teeth. The double nut method can work but half the battle is just taking your time.

I knew there was a reason I was oggling over welders the other day....

From where this thread started, it certainly does not look so bad.

keith - get the forks in hand, measure them, and we'll go from there.

+1 on that.

Ok, just when I thought I was getting a grasp...I agree that the forks will move SW as you stated but in reducing the distance from axle centerline (and tire contact patch) to the point where a straight line down the steering stem would put the axle, I though you were reducing trail and making the bike less stable (lower trail-sometimes less stable at high speeds but easier to turn).

what am i missing? (besides the obvious- timmys Charm, Bailyrocks good looks, Sebs fabrications skills, etc...)

Your "Suspension Tube" line is moving SouthWest which moves the "vertical Axle" line back (to the left) but your "neck line" is remaining contant.

If you increase your suspension height in the rear, drop your forks further in the stem you will increase the angle of the "neck line" which shortens the "Trail"

Lots more variables involved,

- Length and Height of forks (I am not familure with zx-14 specifications)

- Length and height of rear suspension ( I raised the rear suspension 10mm ,some have left it stock)

- Offset of 929/954 triples compared to OEM

- Tire profiles will also affect your suspension settings.

Personally, I think a lot of it is taking the time to work out all the measurements because everyone has thier own combination of components. I do not think there is a defined formula.

It will cost five times as much to do the undertail exhaust as opposed to the suspension, particularly since you want to change the entire rear subframe to accomodate an entirely different tail section. I haven't seen very many mods like this that were finished nicely, either. Go ahead only if you want to make your bike worth less than it is now but at great expense.

Not being negative, just trying to save yourself some trouble that you may not be seeing, having never done something like this before. I would search the site and ask guys like FotoMoto what is required to make a proper CBRVFR before you get too gung ho about merging parts from different bikes.

Having done the fork swap/body conversion to one of my 3rd gens... You are correct.

I want the split seat. I found that picture on 3 different sites all listing it as an F4i sport did find it strange that the year was an 04 since that was when the F4I went back to single seat. tho it might be easier and cheaper to put an early 2000 cbr 600rr tail on it

Be patient and work on mechanicals, specifically your suspension once that is sorted to your liking then work on the cosmetics. Tail and body conversions take time and money because there are hundreds of little things that will come up and slow your progress. I would also wager that it is not less expensive then getting your suspension sorted.

Last ride was today, Snow coming tonight, I guess it is time to start the list...

Street VFR:

-Oil & Filter

-Stabilize fuel

-Fog motor

-Drain carbs

-Clean/lube and inspect chain

-Spend some quality time detailing.

It is an odd numberspring so that means.

-Flush/Replace anti-freeze

-Replace all brake/clutch fluids

-Inspect/clean calipers if needed

-Replace fork oil (tempted to redo the whole suspension this year)

Tracken Viffer

-Oil & Filter

-Fog motor

-Drain carbs

-Clean/lube and inspect chain

-Spend some quality time detailing.

-Finish Painting Body work

-Fabricate new aluminum sub frame

-Rear sets

Wish list

- Air box modifications

- Rear hub converson

- Undertail/ Hi Mount exhaust mods.

Sweeeeett!

Forks Swap :cheerleader: Fork Swap :cheerleader: Fork Swap....

NIce work, lots to appreciate.

With regards to your guages. Many of the Honda analog guages can have their parts swapped out. I took the tach mechanisim out of my 93 cluster and bolted it into a 86 VFR700 case and it is perferct so if you found a set of guages that fit better you obviously have the skills to swap out the guts so everything is accurate...

Bigger brakes... I am hearing the grumbling of another forks swap...

As many of you know, I recently totalled my beloved 2003 VFR, and replaced her with a clean 2002 ABS model. Now that I'm riding again, I'm a little jumpy, I almost feel nervous back in the saddle. Part of it could be the worn and cupping D208's making the bike feel twitchy in corners, but it's probably mostly me. I've only done about 350 miles on the new bike, but I had thought that would be enough to get back into the swing of things. Anyone ever experience anything similar or have any advice?

take/retake an MSF course or private rider safety course.

Some track day groups will offer entry level instruction for track days and this is never a bad thing. The riding school I work for offers beginner sessions and encourages people who just obtained their motorcycle license to try it. It is not "racing" school or about being fast, you get 20 min on the track with some 1:1 instruction, 20 min classroom instruction and a 20 minute break. It is a great day and you will build your confidence/skills.

The R1 off set is also 4mm (2mm each side) narrower then the 929/954/RC51 stems so you can not use a Yamaha upper/lower with a Honda upper/lower

Here is the link to my Gallery and list of what I have used for parts. The only update is I bought Woodcraft clipons and did a VTR1000 clutch master conversion.

I checked out the gallery and list; were you able to use the stock R1 axle with the extra space between the forks? How did the rotors line up on the R6 wheel, did they have to be spaced as well?

The R1 axle worked fine, it is 4mm short which It sounds like a lot until you see it. You could adjust the rotors or the calipers, I added washers to the caliper bolts to move them in and line up with the rotors.

I went with the R6 rim because the rotor size (300mm) matched the rotor and axle size of the '00 R1 and I wanted a 5 spoke rim.

Let us know what you come up with for the oil radiator, I'm still struggling with that part...

I moved the mounting point for the oil cooler out/forward on my fairing stay and bought bulk oil cooler lines (NAPA) and cut then cut to the size I needed. The lines have just enough bow in them to make it around the forks nicely. I just used hose clamps to mount the oil lines on the OEM oil barbs but most NAPA store should be able to make the same type of fitting found on the OEM Honda lines.

Thanks all, appreciate the guidance.

My plan will be to use the 929 lower with the SP1 upper combined with R1 forks, wheel, brakes, etc...a la ZRoyZ blue beauty. Will need some time to get everything together, but will try to document everything well so people can learn from, and hopefully not replicate, any mistakes I make in the process.

Off we go...

This is combination is pretty much exactly what I did with mine, I am happy to answer questions as you move along. When looking for R1 parts do not forget to look at certain R6 parts (wheels) because they can be interchanged and some times can be less expensive... if your lucky.

I'm wondering how the R1 triples line up.

I looked at this option when I did my conversion. I know the R1 triples/stem will not match to my 3rd generation, I even looked into swapping out the stems from the R1 to a 929 but you had to do some machine work to make it happen and it was cheaper to fab the spacers required.

The R1 off set is also 4mm (2mm each side) narrower then the 929/954/RC51 stems so you can not use a Yamaha upper/lower with a Honda upper/lower

Here is the link to my Gallery and list of what I have used for parts. The only update is I bought Woodcraft clipons and did a VTR1000 clutch master conversion.

Nice work. One small thread in this forum can not account for all the time and thought a person puts into a project like this. Congratulations on getting to this stage. :fing02:

.

The 5G '98-'99 manual lists the same clutch bore size, 14mm. I've been running an RC51 clutch master for years w/out any issues.

This is good. I might give it a try because I have one available but for brakes I think it is much more important to make sure you have things match.

I've heard that the Superhawk (VTR1000) clutch is a match to the VFR, and right now I'm using a VTR brake master with my 954 front end

Perfect! That clutch master will work...... It also looks like after 2004 they switched to the "coffin" style. Thanks Mr. Matt

Super Hawk Clutch specs...

Clutch master Cylinder specs - Clutch Master ID - 14.OOO - 14.043 (0.5512 - 0.5529)

Clutch Master OD - 13.957 - 13.984 (0.5495 - 0.5506)

http://www.superhawk996.net/Honda_VTR1000F_Service_Manual.pdf

Cylinder bores must match for brakes and clutch. As far as a hydrolic clutch goes the slave cylinder "ratio" must be compatable as well. I am looking into doing a clutch resevoir conversion but I have not had the time to track down what will work.

As far as the brake resevoir goes. Personally, I would wait and decide if you are going to do a front end swap. That will dictate what your braking "system" will be and you will be able to plan accordingly.

But on the 3rd (I believe they are the same as 4th generation) specs are as follows per the service manual.

Brake masters are (mm/inch) ; Master cylinder ID = 12.700-12.743 (0.5000-0.5017) - Master Cylinder OD = 12.657-12.684 (0.4983 - 0.04994)

Clutch Master are (mm/inch) ; Master cylinder ID = 14.000-14.043 (0.5512-0.5529) - Master Cylinder OD = 13.957-13.984 (0.5495 - 0.5506)

I was hoping to use an RC51 clutch master I have but the RC51 master is smaller then the VFR version.

Beautiful work and thinking things out. If this was easy everyone would be doing it, go go go. I am going through this process now myself and appreciate the time and attention you are applying.

I have tried to read all the discussion on this, but still need more info and you guys seem to know more about this than anyone. Will any triple that incorporates handle bar mounts (not clip -ons) fit the SP1 (RC51) stem, something like on a Tuono or 919? If there is nothing with built in mounts, then I need something flat like the SP1 upper that I can drill to install clamps, but SP1 uppers seem to be hard to find. Is there anything else?

Thanks for any info.

Robert

Ebay? Though they can get pricey quickly.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?app=forums&module=post&section=post&do=reply_post&f=62&t=61350&qpid=720423

Seb, I just finished viewing this entire thread over two evenings and I'm speechless...you are doing what I could only dream of doing with mine!(And I do, believe me!) In the first place, time is at a premium; even though I spend hours in the garage every evening once springtime hits the Midwest, and carry through until snow flies...but what is staggering to me is the amount of cash a project with this much attention to detail must set you back! I'm all up with clean & paint, but the parts alone must've cost you a small fortune! I don't have the luxury of that level of disposable income, so will have to get by on the cheap. But a thread like this is inspirational to all of us. Thanks for sharing!

It makes me very happy that so many people have found this rebuild inspirational! It's my one saving grace after stretching this project out so long.

I won't say that I haven't spent a bunch of money on this bike, but please keep in mind that I didn't just go out one day and burn up my credit card. I've literally spent years on ebay and on forums collecting parts, and thousands of hours of my own labor that (usually) provide pleasure without any associated real cost. I highly doubt this build would have gone anywhere near this level if the bike was my one and only, having a second bike to ride is key for any rider that wants to tackle a project like this. Believe it or not, I am far from wealthy. I guess I just have different priorities than others.

No matter what you tell yourself going in, there will be many times where you're waiting for parts, or run out of money, or simply hit a "wall" and temporarily lose the desire to continue. I've been obsessed with building a cool VF for 10 years now, since I bought my first one, and this particular project has been ongoing for 8 of them!

I've given up on finishing this bike in any kind of time frame, I will work on it when the mood hits me as that seems to be when I'm most productive. I just can't force myself to work on it anymore, that's really what bred the most frustrating times during the build, and I've found it's better to distract myself with other small projects(or big ones) and switch back and forth. I have a cool distraction of late with a secret 4th gen project I'm working on - but I refuse to spill the beans until it's done!! No more 2-3yr long project threads!!

This is great advice for anyone that is thinking about doing something like this. I know I started working on my VFR project last October with thoughts of maybe being ready for our first track day in April 2010. I thought my first goal to have a running "Frankenviffer" to sort out was easily possible but I hit a point where the project became "work" and I was pushing to complete it "on time". I have had to adjust my pace and accept that do something right, like Seb's project, takes lots of time and energy to do it right.

This is a very inspiring thread! Thanks for taking the time Seb, I might have to take a ride out from NH to see it and sneek some pics of that top secret 4th gen project...

Why is it everything I read with Kawasaki ZX forks says 43mm.

What is this 43mm? Inner tube?

Yes.

Cheers, :fing02:

Tarun, we're in the same boat... mind if I tag along?

I am working on an R1 conversion for my 3rd generation. I went with the R1 because when I was looking to buy something the R1 stuff was available and inexpensive (Complete R1 front end $200.00). I went with 929 lower triples and the spacing is 4mm off (2 mm each side) I spaced the calipers in 2 mm and had the R1 spacers duplicated (I wanted to use the dust caps) but added 2mm to each. The stock spacer is on the left the milled spacer is on the right.

R1 - Forks and Calipers

R1 - Axle

R6 - (2004 because the rotor size is 300mm) 5 spoke Rim

I am thinking of doing this body conversion to my 1993 which will be a track only bike but it still needs to fit properly to be safe. It looks like you have to raise the fairing up not only for the ground clearance but also for the brake resevoir. Is this true?

Also, do you think it would be possible/feasible to split the lower cowl into a left and right side once you were able to get everything fitted?