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hondalover

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Posts posted by hondalover

  1. I have installed an assload of those on metric cruisers. If I ever own any type of cruiser, these would be on the bike. They are worth the money IMHO.

    BUT, one of the other VERY popular farkles are heated grips. Being that the ISO grip are metal, I would tend to think that you wouldn't be able to fully utilize the heating element of the grip heaters with the ISO grips. Just some thoughts to ponder since you live in MN.

  2. Here is another thumbs up for Keith at Mason City Honda. I called him to get prices on some engine parts I needed. I gave him the part numbers and he gave me lower prices than I had yet to find. He then asked me if I was with VFR Discussion! Of course I confirmed that, and he came back with even lower prices. I was calling on a Tuesday and wanted the parts before the weekend, so special shipping would be required. He got my address and phone number and told me he would call me back with my options. To my surprise, 10 minutes later my cell phone rang and he quoted me a fair price for next day air from Honda to his place, and then 2nd day from his place to mine. Overall, an outstanding experience from my point of view. :fing02: For Keith at Mason City Honda.

  3. Gents,

    I'm just putting my RC36 back on the road with a couple of mods.

    I've put a new stainless left exit exhaust on (open race can), UNI filter and modified airbox (de-snorkel + front/top opened up to give about 400% increase in intake area). Should I do anything to the carbs before taking it to get it dyno'd or just let them sort it out? Bear in mind that GP Performance is just down the road (3 miles) and Grant is an award winning aftermarket tuner with a sterling reputation for setting up road and race bikes on the dyno.

    He's said it's £40.00 per dyno pull so I figured that I'd leave the jetting stock and see how I get on.

    Thoughts?

    Stew

    I'd say you are going to be extremely lean if the bike was running stock bits before your above stated mods. I'm assuming that your bike has CV carbs and they aren't real happy when it comes to huge changes in airflow. Like, if someone were to add 400% more airflow, the diaphrams may not want to lift. I have no suggestions for jetting size, so I'd just plan on paying for mulitple dyno pulls if you want to get it right.

  4. umm, dumb question, maybe ... the 8 spoke wheel is very nice, and like most I too want one.

    BUT, is there such a thing as an 8 spoke front rim ?

    I don't think I have ever seen one ...

    Are the 8 spoke rear rims very difficulty to obtain, or perhaps relatively available.

    How much $$ does one usually fetch.

    TIA

    IIRC, all front wheels have always been the 5-spoke design of some type.

    8-spokers start at around $200 (very cheap) and continue on up to new price of around $750. I do believe that they are still available new from the dealer if you just have to have one.

    I picked mine up for under $300 shipped with a decent tire.

  5. I've been thinking of doing something like this for quite awhile now, thanks for the write up.

    My top case is in the way when the bike is in the garage so I take it off frequently. I may have to ponder the alternatives to the plugin route.

    A big thumbs up for the clean install!

    EDIT:

    Y'all remember the Mercury Cougar sequential turn signals? how cool would it be to setup the rear-facing portion of the turn signals to blink in sequence to the outside edge when the turn signal is on. It'd be a whole lot more work, but it'd be darn cool.

    Another thought, what's the legality of having red lights flashing to the side? I doubt you'll have any LEO issues, unless you find a particularly anal one, but its some thing to think about.

    I'll do some research on the TXDOT statues on this for reference.

    It sounds like you want turn signals also, but if you are only interested in the brake light, and have a Givi trunk, check out Givi part numbers Z995M and Z880.

  6. I wonder if that was my problem. I had just under 20K miles on my Zumo without a hiccup, then at the Sum. Sum. it erased my Steamboat Springs route and continually got worse. By the time I got home from that trip, the GPS was about worthless as far a navigation goes. You couldn't press the correct button, and often times it pressed buttons on its own. My new Zumo should be on the way from Garmin. I wish you would have found this out about 6 weeks ago.

  7. Front wheels from '98-'09 all the same.

    ABS equipped VFR's model have an ABS sensor ring on the front brake disc on one side. You can still use it on non-ABS VFR's though; the ABS ring can be unbolted and removed, which has no affect on the braking of a non-ABS bike.

    Thanks for the info.

    FYI-You will need to use the axle spacers off your 5th gen. I did the opposite (5th gen front on a 6th gen) and noticed the spacers are different widths.

  8. Try some Hippo Hands with the grip heaters. The grip heaters work well, but at speed, the fronts of my hands still get chilly. I was in the process of getting some made up last year from my MIL, but the weather turned nice and I just dropped it. I guess it's time to pick that project back up.

  9. I really like how you ran the oil line, well done..... :biggrin:
    You can see here where my oil line goes into the chainguard:

    SL741985.jpg

    Zip Tied to Chain Guard:

    SL741983.jpg

    That's the way I routed my line as-well. There is a groove in the Rivcyko hugger that just begs for a line to be run down the inside of it. :huh:

  10. When I did the this mod (all 6 filaments burning) myself a year or so ago, I checked battery voltage. With all 6 lights, grip heaters on high, and my GPS on, I was actually discharging the battery. I think it was around 11.7 volts DC, but this was at idle. I haven't done any "beefin' up of da wires" but it was up close to 13 volts at 4k rpm. So, I now don't ride with the high beams on like I use to, and I never sit and idle (stop sign or stop light) with the high beams on either. The light output is GREAT, and I have no plans of ever going back to stock. YMMV

  11. I used an airhawk seat pad this summer when I did 4 days of 700 miles/day on a quick scoot down to the four corners area in S. CO. I also have a Sergent seat. The sergent seat was perhaps 20% better than stock and extended my non-painful riding time by about an hour. The airhawk was a huge improvement and infinately better for crazy long days, especially if they are back to back days. You have to experiment with the amount of air in the pad. Too much air and they really roll around and raise you up. When inflated properly, your sit bone just touch the seat, and the increase in height and rolling around is pretty minimal.

    They are not for "spirited riding", but for iron butt rides where you simply want the comfort. From a comfort standpoint, it is the best $1xx I have spent.

    :laugh: :happy:

    Do they work, YES! I used mine on my 9,910 mile trip to AK 3 years ago. I did 2 back-to-back 850+ mile days and had no pain. I didn't secure it to the seat and it still worked great. My biggest praise was keeping airflow moving so I had no need for the infamous "Goldbond".

  12. So this new updated wiring for the 02 vfr.Does anyone have an updated wiring schematic for this or know where to get it?The service tech gave me a blank stare like he had no clue what one is or why you would need it.

    The service tech should have access to the 16 page service bulletin that Mother Honda put out. The last four pages show the updated schematic. Unfortunately I scanned my copy (and threw away the original, :rolleyes: ) but the scan didn't come out clear enough to decipher the lines.

  13. I built one of these this weekend, to do the carbs on a Goldwing. It looks really nice...but the actual use was puzzleing. I thought maybe someone has an idea of why it didn't work.

    On the goldwing you have to have a special adapter that screws into the intake runner, close to the head. I used a 5mm bolt that I drilled the center out of, then cut the head off. A 5mm locknut in the middle worked for screwing it in and out. I used a small piece of tubing to go from my 1/4" id tube down to the 5mm bolts.

    I used power steering fluid first (it was what I had) then changed it to ATF afterwards(better color). I hooked all 4 tubes up, 1 to each cylinder, after warming the bike up a bit.

    When I fired the bike up, the readings were all over the board...2 cylinders shot up, then air bubbles started forming in them and small amounts of fluid began making their way to the cylinders. I shut the bike down and thought a bit...and couldn't figure it out. I even tried connecting just 2 cylinders at a time(and connecting the other 2 together) but I couldn't get it to balance...it would just go fast to one cylinder.

    The only thing I can think of is that maybe I have a leak on my homemade adapters, and thus I get more fluctuations than normal? I noticed the adapters got hot, and the tubes didn't have as tight a seal as before.

    I have used a mercury one before, but on a different bike, with no troubles. I am nervous to use this one to do the starter synch if it isn't going to work right...i don't want to mess my VFR up.

    Any ideas? I will post pictures, it is a clean looking setup for sure!

    You might try swapping the hoses around and see if the same cylinder pulls the AFT high into the tubes. If that is the case, it's just the carbs are REALLY far out of sync.

    If you have a leak in the adapters I would think that you would have a low reading, not high. Since you are reading vaccum it should pull outside air from the lead which would show the low reading.

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