flya750

1 minute ago, Grum said:

Well ok then. If ever I feel my rear brakes "Suck", I will definetly consider the steel lines.

Since I do a brake flush/bleed every 12 months, just haven't had anything to complain about with the 8gen rear brakes even after 77,000k's.

Again YMMV.

Cheers.

Bottom line, the SS lines will be an improvement. 

27 minutes ago, Grum said:

I'm obviously missing something! But what is the benefit in going to all this trouble for the rear brake line replacement on a relatively new bike? After all, it seems like a lot of it is steel line anyway!

I understand especially for the front system it will give a more positive brake feel and possible greater hose life.

But is there much to be gained by doing the rear? Never had any issue or need for rear brake hose replacement especially on relatively new bikes!

I'm not talking of race track applications here, just normal road use.

Just wondering, YMMV.

Okay... I remember a reason... I remember now that my stock 8G rear brakes SUCKED, but now with the SS rear brake line, the rear brakes are night and day difference. I did the SS brake lines because I installed the VFRD header, but so happy I have SS brake lines now..

5 minutes ago, Grum said:

I'm obviously missing something! But what is the benefit in going to all this trouble for the rear brake line replacement on a relatively new bike? After all, it seems like a lot of it is steel line anyway!

I understand especially for the front system it will give a more positive brake feel and possible greater hose life.

But it there much to be gained by doing the rear? Never had any issue or need for rear brake hose replacement especially on relatively new bikes!

I'm not talking of race track applications here, just normal road use.

Just wondering, YMMV.

The rear is not that difficult.....If you ever want the VFRD Header, going with the SS lines will solve some heat problems. 

That's about all I can add.... if you've bought the SS lines, I see NO reason not to do the job correct. When it comes to my 8G, nothing is half assed...

There are less expensive ones, but I went with this one.

Hooks up to my air compressor.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OM751EC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let me know if you have anymore questions. This is NOT a dealership job. You will need the proper tools....

You'll also need to get a power bleeder. There is  NO WAY to bleed the brakes properly without a power bleeder...FYI...

It's important to get proper access so when you connect up to the hard lines, you don't strip the threads...If you damage the factory hard line connections, you'll be in a world of hurt.

Just remember to put bolts back in original holes, take lots of pictures. The rear assembly is not that complicated... just 3 or 4 pieces..??

47 minutes ago, rgrattan said:

I bought a full set of stainless steel braided brake and clutch lines (Galfer).  I decided to start the replacement on the rear, but I'm stumped.  The lines came with no instructions so I eventually found some online which aren't particularly useful and definitely not specific to the 8th gen.  This is an issue because the rear brake line appears to be broken out into three component lines and two of them affix to the bike somewhere inside and under the aluminum frame on the right hand side.

 

So to my question; how on God's green earth does one gain access to this area.?  What's the approach, the trick?  Do I remove the tank.  Doesn't seem to be a solution - still big pieces of aluminum in the way.  Do I remove the underside black plastic that shelters the underside of the saddle form the elements? 

 

Completely stymied.  Any pointers appreciated otherwise I will have to admit defeat and bring it into a bike shop to have the work done (I like to do my own work so this is a big deal for me).  

You have to remove the entire rear tail assembly.. It's not that bad of a job. You'll also need to remove the radiator overflow tank. This will get you all the access to replace the rear brake lines. Also removing the rear wheel will give you good access to the rear wheel line too.

Of course, you'll need to remove the rear master cylinder too.

22 hours ago, sfdownhill said:

Gentlemen, our fellow VFRD member Hammerdrill has run into health problems that have forced him to hang up his riding gear. Sadly, in addition to losing a riding brother, his 6 gen [Named Lola] is now up for sale. This was our 6 gen test bike for dyno tuning on the header project:

 

 

So looking at the Dynocharts posted on Hammerdill's 6G test bike, they showed a peak HP of 110hp and the Dynocharts I've seen from your 8G test bike was peak HP 103? Is that correct? Was there that much difference? Edit: After looking closer at the 6G specs, I see some additional performance tunes like the ceramic coating on the 6G, but not the 8G test bike .) 

6 hours ago, interceptor69 said:

You're making me want an 8th gen now.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

My 3G, original owner, will soon be up for sale... No looking back...;) 

3 hours ago, sfdownhill said:

RIGHT?!

Give in to the Dark Side! It is your Honda VFR Destiny 😉 

Finally got the VFRD Header installed. Just finished full pair valve removal with plates, evap canister removal, DNA High Flow Air filter, Hel Performance SS brake lines with carbon fiber finish, VFRDiscussion Custom Header-ceramic coated, Dynojet with Autotuner and Attack Performance mapping, and center stand eliminator. 😉 

1 minute ago, Rush2112 said:

Size matters... check ID & OD dimensions. OEM sized exhaust gaskets do squish and stick out into the exhaust gas stream with these headers. That’s why Lance and Darryl sourced the larger diameter Delkevic gaskets to help optimize the performance of these headers.  

ah.. okay... make sense.. Thanks!

Check out these crush gaskets for the 2015 VF800FD. They may be better than the Delkevic crush gaskets?

Description

"Very high quality copper covered fiber exhaust gasket.  Sold individually.

• Flexible fiber core
• Soft copper exterior
• Can be stacked for problematic head pipes
• Sold individually"

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Interceptor-800-VFR800FD-Deluxe-2014-2015-Head-Pipe-Exhaust-Gasket/162508919192?hash=item25d6495198%3Ag%3AATgAAOSwd0tdt8dS&fits=Year%3A2015|Model%3AInterceptor+800|Make%3AHonda

I just got this email from Delkevic....I guess it's official., see below....Do what ever the frick you want? LOL!!  Oy Vey!  I think I will put the seam going inward as recommended by SFDownHill

I don't see how the gasket will crush and protrude into the exhaust flow? 

"------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

      The gasket is designed to crush when the header is installed. The seam placement is inconsequential.

.

Kind Regards,

Matt

Delkevic US

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------"

23 minutes ago, VFR Newbie said:

This has been discussed.  If installed correctly, it should not interfere with the exhaust gas flow at all.

Yeah, I'm not looking for what has been discussed? I'm looking for anyone who knows 100% what the manufacturer's intentions are for proper installation? I don't find anything on Delkevic's website?

Finally getting ready to install my new header on the 8G.

I've been told that the crush gasket seam goes toward the engine header?

But I've seen a difference of opinions on the which way the seam goes?

Check out this video? This mechanic claims the seam should go outward, away from the engine head?
 

I've also found others saying the seam goes outward..."Flat side in, on the engine head. Exhaust manifold seals onto the chamfer (round with seam) side. Torque headers accordingly"

I figure there has to be a 100% manufacturer recommendation? Seam facing inward or seam facing outward?

On 5/22/2020 at 2:23 PM, ducnut said:

Turning a beautiful golden hue. 

Did you use any gasket goop in those J pipe connections?

On 3/3/2020 at 5:45 PM, sfdownhill said:

 

Wow who is this "Vfr800witdawaffle" user? I don't find them as a member? I'd like to find out more about his install?

On 3/3/2020 at 5:45 PM, sfdownhill said:

 

 

Update - the current production run of headers has been completed! Wade is finishing off by adding the last few bungs, and we will head up to his shop to pick them up next Monday, then drop them off at the passivators.

 

Thanks to everyone for their patience and support.

 

Cogswell - thanks for the excellent weight comparison.

 

Those of us who have installed the new headers have all been reveling in the throttle response and torque - here’s a quote from VFRD member Vfr800witdawaffle after he installed his 8 gen headers:

 

”So guys....I rode the bike today with the new headers and my lord!!! My bike is literally scary now. I feel like I have to hold onto the bars for dear life as this demon of a bike growls and propels me forward with the speed of a space X rocket. Traction control constantly kicks in if I try to gun it in first and second gear. Now I have trouble trying to accelerate in 1st and second. Also I don’t have the rapid bike module yet and it’s running super rich but It might have adjusted. When I first started the bike a whole bunch of I unburnt fuel was spraying out the headers for a little and then it calmed down. I’m also running it straight piped right now but I’m going to buy the module before I ride it again so I don’t mess the engine up. Thank you guys so much for being the ones that made this all happen!”

 

Rock on Vfr800witdawaffle!

I'm ready to buy SFDOWNHILL...

How do I go about placing the order?

8G

Hi flya750,

Thank you for your donation of 15.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

When the times comes, I wonder if the 8th Gen headers can be made so removing and reinstalling the center stand isn't an issue where the header bolts won't need to be loosened?

If you switch to LED signal lights, you'll need 1156 and 1157 LED's... You can also get a simple replacement relay to fix the fast flashing issue.

Google the relay, superbrightleds.com sells them. It's a simple relay with only two wires and it works Great!

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/electronic-led-flasher-relays-for-motorcycle/787/842/

I just upgraded to LED lights all around on my 3rd Gen. I also bought yellow LED lights and Red LED lights for the tail lights. It looks Great!

Dude Sick! Simply Sick!