Wiring Question

[N8sVFR]

I need a little electrical assistance from you guru's out there. . . .

I am finishing up my light installation in my OEM trunk, but would like to do one more thing. I would like to use the rear running light signal for rear running lights on my new turn signals in the trunk. I want the running light to be overridden and 'turn off' when the turn signal is on (similar to the way that the running lights work on the front signals). BUT, when the right signal is on, I would still like the left running light to remain on. Is there any way to do this without running two running light wires (one for the right and one for the left)?

Hope that this is clear enough for you to understand.

Thanks for any insights!!

[N8sVFR]

Anyone???

[Guest]

I need a little electrical assistance from you guru's out there. . . .

I am finishing up my light installation in my OEM trunk, but would like to do one more thing. I would like to use the rear running light signal for rear running lights on my new turn signals in the trunk. I want the running light to be overridden and 'turn off' when the turn signal is on (similar to the way that the running lights work on the front signals). BUT, when the right signal is on, I would still like the left running light to remain on. Is there any way to do this without running two running light wires (one for the right and one for the left)?

Hope that this is clear enough for you to understand.

Thanks for any insights!!

Nate,

Prolly, no one has exactly the set-up that you have. I certainly do not.

However, it sounds like you would like to have the trunk lights act just like the front running lights/turn signals. If this is true, the easiest thing to do is to run wires back from the front lights to the trunk lights. This presumes that you have two filament bulbs in the trunk lights.

I wouldn't think that the standard trunk lights have double filaments, though. That would be a needless expense for the trunk manufacturer.

There is a way to do this without running from the front lights, but it requires a bit of rear wiring harness surgery. Not for the faint of heart. The double filament bulbs are still required unless you are content with a simple on-off of the trunk lights.

By a large margin, I am NOT the best person to address this issue as I am more house wirer than electrician, and more electrician than technologist.

Good luck.

[N8sVFR]

CementHead - thanks. I should clarify. I am making custom lights for the OEM top box / trunk. I have already cut into my wiring harness and have no fear of electrical modifications. I have run the running light wire from the left front turn signal to the rear, and was hoping to be able to use this as the running light for both right and left signals in the trunk. Unfortunately, I now realize that this won't work without some additional electrical know how. It works fine for the left signal, but the problem is that it turns OFF the running light for the right signal when the left signal is activated, and it doesn't do anything for the right signal when it is activated. . . .I don't know if a relay would help in this situation, or not. . . .

[Flip998]

CementHead - thanks. I should clarify. I am making custom lights for the OEM top box / trunk. I have already cut into my wiring harness and have no fear of electrical modifications. I have run the running light wire from the left front turn signal to the rear, and was hoping to be able to use this as the running light for both right and left signals in the trunk. Unfortunately, I now realize that this won't work without some additional electrical know how. It works fine for the left signal, but the problem is that it turns OFF the running light for the right signal when the left signal is activated, and it doesn't do anything for the right signal when it is activated. . . .I don't know if a relay would help in this situation, or not. . . .

Hi you are on the right track with the relay(s). You will need two, one for each add on signal. If the wiring is anything like on the 4th gen you should be able to catch all connections in in the back. You will need to find the following wires:

license plate light wires (+ & -)

left and right turn signal trigger wires (+)

In my 4th gen all the ground (negative) wires are colored green, the + license plate wire is brown, left signal trigger + is orange, and right signal trigger + is light blue. Wire colors in your 6th gen may be different.

Relay 1 (right turn signal)

terminal 30 goes to + of the license plate light

terminal 87a goes to new right turn signal +

terminal 86 goes to - of license plate wire

terminal 85 goes to + trigger of OEM right turn signal

Relay 2 (left turn signal)

terminal 30 same as relay 1

terminal 87a goes to new left turn signal +

terminal 86 same as relay 1

terminal 85 goes to + trigger of OEM left turn signal

You will also have to ground other side of the new turn signal wires, can also use the - of license plate light.

As an alternate way to wire you can also use 2 diodes to do the same thing, but you will need diodes big enough to handle the current. They will get hot also, if it were my bike I would rather use relays as it is much safer IMO.

Make sure you check all your wires with a DMM. The wiring I provide is only a suggestion so wire at your own discretion. Good luck bro and hope this helps you out.

[navyhelodrvr]

Use flip's suggestion with the relays. His idea should get you what you want with out using the wire you you ran from the left front turn signal. Or just run another wire from the right front running light and use each wire for each respective side. Also be aware that the added resistance of the new turn signals in the trunk may slow down your turn signal flasher. I have my front turn signals deactivated so my flashers blip at a faster rate for better awareness and visibility to the cage drivers. Good luck and post some pics when done.

[Guest]

CementHead - thanks. I should clarify. I am making custom lights for the OEM top box / trunk. I have already cut into my wiring harness and have no fear of electrical modifications. I have run the running light wire from the left front turn signal to the rear, and was hoping to be able to use this as the running light for both right and left signals in the trunk. Unfortunately, I now realize that this won't work without some additional electrical know how. It works fine for the left signal, but the problem is that it turns OFF the running light for the right signal when the left signal is activated, and it doesn't do anything for the right signal when it is activated. . . .I don't know if a relay would help in this situation, or not. . . .

Nate,

OK, perfect.

Let me add this. {My SWMBO; the librarian, is away right now which means that wherever I left the Manual has been cleaned and the Manual filed in an impossible to find, but ultimately logical-in-hindsight-place. So, I cannot replicate Flips's wiring knowledge.}

You cannot use the same running lights wire from the left front for both the rear running/turn signals. If you look at your bike from the front, you will note that the running light remains on - on the opposite side of bike when you are signalling. IOW, when you are signalling a left turn, the right running light stays on (lit). On the left hand side, the running light turns off (low wattage filament) while the turn signal (high wattage filament) flashes.

Hence, the easiest thing to do is to run the two wires (running & turn indicator) from each side at the front to the back. The ground wire to the sockets can go anywhere, of course.

If you are using the dual filament bulbs (1157, IIRC) you can take the leads for the turn signals directly from the turn signals in the rear. This is arguably more elegant and certainly the wiring will be much shorter.

Now to the running lights. Again, the easiest will be to wire from the front, or cut into the harness and patch into the correct wires - but until I can recover my Manual, I cannot identify the correct colours... This will give your desired, turn signal on, running light off combination.

I'm with Flip; relays can be your best friend. You will need two. And the effect, will be interesting, if you choose this way.

The concept is that the relay will normally be closed allowing the running lights to be on. Each relay would take the power from something on while the ignition is on - I agree with Flip, my choice is also the license plate light. So, you pass the power through each relay to the right and left running light in the trunk. One relay for the right, the other relay to the left.

The turn signal line, running from your rear turn signals to those in the trunk, are used to trigger the relay. Again, left & right have to be separated to the appropriate relay. The turn signal signal will cause the relay to open, thus, turning off the running light.

The interesting effect that I mentioned earlier is that rather than the bright/dark turn signal as you would see at the front, you will have a two brightness level signal at the back. The turn signal will be bright, but then the running light would be seen. So, rather than bright-off-bright-off-bright-off, you will have a bright-dim-bright-dim-bright-dim pattern doing it this way.

Only you can answer whether it is worth the effort.

If you ONLY run the turn signals from the rear signals to the high wattage filament of the 1157 bulbs in the trunk AND hook up both low wattage filaments to the license plate light, you are going to almost the exact same "look". Except now, the running light will always be on.

The reason for all of this, is that the engineers at Honda arranged the front turnsignals in such a way so that the runing light is off during the entire time the turn signal is activated. If you have a manual and trace out the signals you can see this clearly. Of course, if I could lay my hands on my manual, I could tell you exactly which wires by colour do this... Sigh.

Again, good luck. I hope that this makes some sense.

[Flip998]

Hi N8 i presumed you were going to use a single filament bulb in the rear. If you are going to do it with a dual filament it would just be easier to run wires from the from the front signals to your new dual filament rear signal and wire in parallel as Navyhelodrvr and CementHead suggested. Good luck!

[DDO-VFR]

Get yourself a SPDT relay for each trunk light. You connect the trunk light to the NC (normally closed) side of the contact (the contact is closed when the relay is NOT energized) +12V to the common contact. Send the turn signal (from wherever it's available) to the + side of the relay coil. When the turn signal energizes the relay coil it will TURN OFF your trunk light. In other words the rear light will be flash in the inverse of the front turn signal. When there is no turn signal(s) the rear light(s) will alway be on.

Hope it helps.

DDO-VFR

[DDO-VFR]

Get yourself a SPDT relay for each trunk light. You connect the trunk light to the NC (normally closed) side of the contact (the contact is closed when the relay is NOT energized) +12V to the common contact. Send the turn signal (from wherever it's available) to the + side of the relay coil. When the turn signal energizes the relay coil it will TURN OFF your trunk light. In other words the rear light will be flash in the inverse of the front turn signal. When there is no turn signal(s) the rear light(s) will alway be on.

Hope it helps.

DDO-VFR

:cool: Sorry, in case you didn't know the jargon SPDT = Single Pole Double Throw

There is continuity between the COM or C (common) terminal and the NC terminal when the relay is NOT energized. There is continuity between the NO (normally open) and the C terminals when the relay is energized.

DDO-VFR

[DDO-VFR]

Get yourself a SPDT relay for each trunk light. You connect the trunk light to the NC (normally closed) side of the contact (the contact is closed when the relay is NOT energized) +12V to the common contact. Send the turn signal (from wherever it's available) to the + side of the relay coil. When the turn signal energizes the relay coil it will TURN OFF your trunk light. In other words the rear light will be flash in the inverse of the front turn signal. When there is no turn signal(s) the rear light(s) will alway be on.

Hope it helps.

DDO-VFR

:cool: Sorry, in case you didn't know the jargon SPDT = Single Pole Double Throw

There is continuity between the COM or C (common) terminal and the NC terminal when the relay is NOT energized. There is continuity between the NO (normally open) and the C terminals when the relay is energized.

DDO-VFR

And finally this a relay that should do the trick. Can be found at Digikey.com or perhaps your local electronics parts store.

relay pdf

digikey

Hope this link stuff works.

DDO-VFR

[DDO-VFR]

Get yourself a SPDT relay for each trunk light. You connect the trunk light to the NC (normally closed) side of the contact (the contact is closed when the relay is NOT energized) +12V to the common contact. Send the turn signal (from wherever it's available) to the + side of the relay coil. When the turn signal energizes the relay coil it will TURN OFF your trunk light. In other words the rear light will be flash in the inverse of the front turn signal. When there is no turn signal(s) the rear light(s) will alway be on.

Hope it helps.

DDO-VFR

:cool: Sorry, in case you didn't know the jargon SPDT = Single Pole Double Throw

There is continuity between the COM or C (common) terminal and the NC terminal when the relay is NOT energized. There is continuity between the NO (normally open) and the C terminals when the relay is energized.

DDO-VFR

And finally this a relay that should do the trick. Can be found at Digikey.com or perhaps your local electronics parts store.

relay pdf

digikey

Hope this link stuff works.

DDO-VFR

So much for the links

Try find something like this: Panasonic part number CM1-D-12V. This model has an integrated clamp diode. If you use a relay without an integrated diode you will have to add one yourself. Use a 1N4006, put the cathode on the + and anode on the - of the relay coil and you're good to go.

DDO-VFR

[N8sVFR]

Thanks guys. All of your information has been very helpful. I'll post up pics once the new server is up and running and the gallery is active. I am going to do a 'how-to' or at least a 'how-I-did-it' for my OEM trunk lights.

Cheers,

Nate

[Guest]

N8,

Found the Manual - where would we be without the Manual? OK, I have an '01 so there may be differences, but here it goes:

The GREEN wire is the common line and is connected to all of the bulbs and the turnsignal relay.

On the right hand side:

1. 
   Light Blue - is the turnsignal light wire
   Light Blue & White - is the running light wire
   Green is common
   

On the left hand side:

1. 
   Orange - is the turnsignal light wire
   Orange & White - is the running light wire
   Green is common
   

The furtherest back that you can access these is the turnsignal/dimmer/horn swtich on the left grip. I wouldn't - I'd go to the lights as everyone has recommended so far.

The Green, Light Blue, and Orange wires run back to the rear turnsignals, of course. What is missing are the Light Blue & White and Orange & White leads at the back.

So, power is supplied to the Light Blue & White and Orange & White leads normally - as these are the running lights at the front.

When you signal a left hand turn, for example:

1. 
   The Orange lead is energised, while
   The Orange & White lead connexion is broken
   

As I said, this occurs at the switch, which is why trying to replicate the action with the relays is so difficult. It's not that you want the running light off when the flasher signal is on - it's that you want the running light off for the duration that the switch is activated.

Whew...