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ZCD76 last won the day on January 7

ZCD76 had the most liked content!

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About ZCD76

  • Rank
    Local Racer

Profile Information

  • Location
    Omaha, NE
  • In My Garage:
    2003 VFR800
  1. Bump Starting

    It depends on how weak the battery is. It's gotta have enough amperage to run the computer, the fuel pump, etc. Can you bump/push start an efi'ed vehicle with a weak battery? Yes, but it all depends on how much amperage and/or voltage that weak battery has. If it doesn't have the necessary power to run the electronics AND fuel pump, no.
  2. Is that because of the ethanol or merely the expansion of gasoline products under high heat/direct sunlight? I am curious. I don't claim to know it all. Having more experience in the automobile world, the biggest foul I was aware of when it comes to ethanol-blended fuels is that the alcohol/ethanol attracts moisture so in vehicles that don't get driven often and that have metal fuel tanks, the owner should avoid putting ethanol-blended gasoline in them. Even here in the States, I have seen cars that were parked in non-climate controlled garages purportedly for ~6 months in high humidity locales (peninsular Florida) that the interior of the gas tank(s) had a substantial amount of rust in it. Ethanol having a deleterious effect on a plastic fuel tank is something I have not heard of...it has always been steel/metal tanks I have heard/Understood to be adversely impacted by prolonged exposure to ethanol-blended gasolines.
  3. Cold Starting Problem

    Have you tried cycling the ignition switch (or the key) on and off a few times before cold starting it in these instances? If not, try that - flip the ignition switch to the "run" position until the pump quits priming - then switch it to the "kill" position and back to the "run" position for the pump to prime again. Do this 2-3 times then try to start the bike. Report back results.
  4. Minimum voltage to charge battery when riding?

    To assuage your fears, it is fused. I have an inline fuse a couple of inches off the battery with a 10 amp fuse in it...between the battery and the distribution block. Each lead off the distribution block is fused, as well, with a 5 amp mini ATM-type fuse. I have no major power consuming devices wired off of this setup.
  5. Minimum voltage to charge battery when riding?

    Yes, but I don't have anything that constantly draws off the block. I installed it for USB-type devices - recharging/charging the phone, navigation, and such devices when I'm riding.
  6. This is my general experience/opinion, as well. As much as I like making fun of Italian "stuff," I don't think Ducatis...at least since the early 2000s...deserve the reputation some folks do and would ascribe to them. Do they require more routine maintenance (than a Honda or Yamaha, Zuk, Kawi)? Yes, most likely. I cannot say for sure as I've never had one nor do I think I ever will...and that certainly isn't because I don't think they aren't good looking bikes (depending on the model) nor unappealing. I just happen to think other makes (Honda, Yamaha, BMW, to be specific) offer products that, pragmatically speaking (to me), align with my sense of function, sensibility, and fit my persona (whatever that means). Duck guys are duck guys...and I'm not a Duck rider. With respect to the videos posted above by GatorGreg (I believe)...not to rain on anybody's parade but what's posted on the internet is, in my experience, generally that of people most dissatisfied with a product or taking an extreme. For every video of a Ducati (or Honda VFR, Yamaha FJR, whatever) with a GIVEN specific problem 6 months after purchase, there's bound to be countless thousands (if not tens of thousands) of other customers that are perfectly satisfied/have experienced zero problems who don't post videos or on message boards describing their completely satisfied, trouble-free experience with their product.
  7. Minimum voltage to charge battery when riding?

    Directly off the battery is where I would recommend. I have a distribution block wired directly to the battery with a 10 gauge wire. I see no less than 14.1 volts off of it.
  8. Sebspeed Clutch Window Mod Group Buy 2017

    I have an "extra" clutch cover available, as well. I am not trying to undercut Lightduty or anything like that, so I would defer to him. If anybody is in need of a cover to have Sebastian window while they still have their bike together, let me know. I can ship Seb both that I have for windowing (whenever the minimum number is met) and you can merely Paypal me the money for the purchase price of the cover.
  9. Tires!

    This. To Greg/Walter, I read Taylor's response as the honest truth. Call me crazy. He indicates that RockyMountain is selling the tires below the cost that Revzilla can buy them at. This is not common but not unheard of, either. I can vouch for similar stuff happening in various other industries (bicycling and automobile performance industries/markets, amongst others). I appreciate that you spent $1,500+ with them in 2017 but are they supposed to take a loss on some tires just because you bought from them previously? In whatever line of work or profession you are in, would you be willing to take a loss for a prior customer just because he or she patronized your business/employer at an earlier date? Is that a business model you think is viable?
  10. Mud gaurd??

    Dash looks good. What color are the LCD displays? I was considering sending them mine and having the LCDs done in their blue-green (with the tach in white) but without a photo to see how that color actually looks, I don't know what to think.
  11. Hello from the frigid Midwest

    VFR4Lee - yes, it's definitely a double edged sword. I cannot say I've had a viffer before but have been "familiar" with them...probably aware is the better term - in terms of their reputation as being one of the best sport-touring bikes for many years, if not decades...and I familiarized myself with some of their known quirks (through this site and others) when I acquired this one. Such as the low rpm fueling or "throttling" issues - the abruptness if not rough operation at lower (idle to ~3000 rpm) engine speeds and the such. This thing sputtered and popped out of the exhaust and the exhaust (smell) wreaked of unburnt fuel at all times it was running (dead cold in the morning to full operating temp). Having the injectors cleaned/serviced seems to have alleviated a great deal of that, as well as adjusting the idle down. The idle, when purchased, would hover in the 2000 rpm range when cold and when, at temperature, would fall off into the 1500 rpm range. I adjusted it down to the 1200 rpm range at temp. And, when yanking the injectors to send them to be cleaned, I'm fairly certain I found one of the vacuum lines that runs to the fuel pressure regulator was not hooked up to the nipple/port on the regulator. If that was, in fact, the case that would explain some of the pig rich condition the bike formerly exhibited. As well, in the limited time I've had it and ridden it, a couple of times it has (circumstances in which I had run the bike down the highway/hard enough that the VTEC actuators engaged and then slowed down and pulled into a gas station or otherwise shut the bike off) exhibited a low engine speed (i.e. idle to ~3000 rpm) lack of throttle response and power as though the VTEC actuators were "stuck" like all 4 valves were operating. A few hundred yards down the road (and whatever marginal amount of potential increased oil temperature, or oil circulation/engine operation?) the bike, then, exhibited a "normal" low speed operation characteristic - much better throttle response/low rpm torque. I don't know if what I'm typing makes sense. I don't want to portray as though I'm flogging the thing at low engine temperatures and then immediately shutting it off from, let's say, 8k rpm. These are just a couple of times where the bike has been at some "reasonable" amount of temperature (i.e. 150*F+) and within a short distance of having pulled off the highway/road, the bike has been shut down briefly (to put gas in it, to run in the shop, etc.) and when re-fired and I pull out into the road, the low rpm performance of the engine is extremely abnormal - as in a complete lack of power and an audible "throatiness" as though the throttle bodies are open and the engine is trying to accelerate but there just isn't much there. It's not every time but has occurred a few times. I guess it's a matter of waiting for spring (nice weather) and just putting some miles on the thing. Probably, at this point, just being ridden will do it more good than anything else. bykemike - While I am originally from this part of the country (born in Omaha - all of my extended family is from this area of the country, as well), I grew up about 2 hours south of you in the Cocoa Beach area. I remember thinking 50* (in Florida) was cold and an arctic blast. That said, that (peninsular) Florida cold is a different kind of cold. 50* with all that humidity in the air down there feels a whole lot colder than 50* up here or in Colorado, especially, where there's comparatively far less atmospheric humidity. Carry on, gentlemen.
  12. Hello all. New member (joined a month and a half ago to get in on SebSpeed's group buy on his windowed clutch covers) here. I go by Zac but zcd works on here just as well. I live, currently, in the Omaha, Nebraska area. After a pretty mild fall, winter is upon us in this part of the country/globe. I think 7*F is all the warmer it was today and we are not expected to see more than 26*F for the next few weeks. Anyhow, I joined because I recently became the owner of a 2003 model with 1,800 miles on it at the time I purchased it (Oct 2017). The good: it has barely been ridden. The bad: it had been over on its right/non-drive side at some point (as in low speed if not non-moving garage tip-over) and...it has barely been ridden. There should be a couple of photos on here or linked. The right side fairing and headlight fairing took some light scuffing, as did the clutch cover. I took the plastics off and had them resprayed and had the original clutch cover re-powdercoated. I bought another Fleabay clutch cover to send to Seb whenever that deal hits critical mass. The second photo should show an "after" with refinished plastics, clutch cover, and a Puig windscreen and non-American model spec VFR decals in place. The "bad" in only 1800 miles on it when I got it is the lack of use takes its toll, so to speak, on stuff. It ran extremely rich and, overall, just poor when I got it. The injectors have been serviced by InjectorRX and that made a tremendous difference. Fresh oil, filter, new spark plugs, etc., were done at the same time. It's parked for the winter...2,200 miles on the odometer. Beyond the decals and windscreen, the only changes so far are a VFRness installation (thanks Wire My Bike) and the original 14 year old Bridgestones were phased out for some Metzeler Z8s. Between now and spring plans: new set of cans (Delkevic, GPR, Max Torque Cans, ?), windowed clutch cover, Givi bags, new coolant, maybe brake and clutch fluid flushings, and possibly new r/r and piddly items like LED headlight bulbs. By chance does anybody know if factory 8th gen heated grips are an easy retrofit (aside from wiring matters...which may be easy enough as I bought the VFRness with the optional fuse blick) on these 6th gens? By easy i mean is it simply acquiring them, bolting them on, and figuring out wiring? I rode my brother's Triumph Tiger 800 last month...and being it was the first bike I have been on with heated grips - that certainly is a nice luxury item. Anyhow, I look forward to learning from the members and collective knowledge and experience on here. Yours truly, Zac
  13. Sebspeed Clutch Window Mod Group Buy 2017

    Sebastian - I'm the guy who contacted you on Instagram with the 2003 with 2,200 miles on it. Count me in. I left you my email on Instagram messages.

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