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Hi I'm replacing front wheel bearings on my 5th gen. I installed one side first (using bearing driver). Then turned the wheel over, inserted the long spacers that sits between the two bearings inside the wheel hub and started driving the second bearing in. At some point it became impossible to move the spacer by hand when the second bearing was sitted in. Also both bearings are very stiff to move by hand. Am I doing something wrong ? Does the second need to go all in or do I have to make judgment as to how far it's suppose to go? I believe the spacer needs to be lose and moving about freely in the hub as this is how it was before I started the job Many thanks for any responses

Just purchased all ballz steering head bearing kit. I understand replacing the bearings+seals+dust shield on the lower triple tree/yoke, the top slips on and the bottom bearing must be pressed on, I get all that. My question is, inside the steering head itself the two separate races that need to be driven out for replacement (bottom+lower) do those races always come with the bearing kit? Might be newb question but the picture just does not do the ad justice. Do I need to purchase them specifically separate or should they be in my steering bearing kit all ballz from ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/171326825717?item=171326825717&viewitem=&vxp=mtr I just want to be positive Ive taken my forks off 5 times last week I am learning to be absolutely positive about my DIY!

Hello Everyone: So I have a little project on my hands, and I'm looking for some help and advice. I just got a 94 750 with about 23000 miles on it. It had been in an accident, so its missing the entire fairing and headlight assembly, the tank is rashed, and rear plastics are rashed and cracked. It runs, but has a very noticable metallic tapping to it. I was betting on valves, but I popped off both valve covers and all were in spec. Checked spark plugs, and they looked good. When I start it, all 4 exhaust pipes get similarly hot, so I'm getting compression and ignition on them. So...I drained some oil into a white container, and that's when I saw it! Bits and pieces of shiny metal...ugh! They are ferrous, says the magnet that dragged them around the bottom of the container. Anything else that the metal could have come from? What material are the bearings made from? How likely is a spun big end con rod bearing? I'm pretty good at fixing stuff, just not this big (read: lawn mowers, weedwackers, chain saws); if I remove the engine, flip it over, and split the cases, is there enough space to access the broken rod bearings to replace it and still keep the crank in? Is the crank likely to be shot? I don't want this to turn into a money pit... Worst case scenario, I swap over wheels, tires, brake rotors to my 99, and part the rest. BUT...it would be awesome to rip into it, slap in some new bearings, and turn it into a rat bike. So, lets hear some thoughts! I'm heading out there now to see if I can figure out which cylinder the knock is on. /s/ Sean (Correction, bike is a 1994 model, says the title)