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Found 6 results

  1. Hey it’s been a while since I’ve put a topic in this group but I have been trying to diagnose this problem now for a long time. My bike will start up around 2k rpms and stay there once warm. I have taken the air box off a million times so I don’t want to take it off again. Here are things I’ve done or tested: New Spark Plugs New Coils New Battery New ECU New Stator New PAIR Solenoid Valve New Throttle Body Boots ALL New fuses New Air Box(with air box boots) New Air Filter All relays are functional I have tested the one way valve and it’s operational I have checked the timing, and that is all good and timed correctly. I have checked the TPS and it is very functional All of the vacuum hoses have been tested for leaks Have tested the bypass control solenoid valve and it’s operational I have looked at the throttle cables and they are “within spec” by the book. I can’t tighten them up any more without the throttle sticking and not flicking back So here is the story now. I start up the bike let it warm up, drive it around the block a few times. I get back and it’s still idling high. However which is very weird when I roll the throttle back the other way the idle goes down but the idle is still sporadic but not as bad. As soon as I let go of the throttle from that position it goes back to high idle around 2.2k RPMS.
  2. Hey it’s been a while since I’ve put a topic in this group but I have been trying to diagnose this problem now for a long time. My bike will start up around 2k rpms and stay there once warm. I have taken the air box off a million times so I don’t want to take it off again. Here are things I’ve done or tested: New Spark Plugs New Coils New Battery New ECU New Stator New PAIR Solenoid Valve New Throttle Body Boots ALL New fuses New Air Box(with air box boots) New Air Filter All relays are functional I have tested the one way valve and it’s operational I have checked the timing, and that is all good and timed correctly. I have checked the TPS and it is very functional All of the vacuum hoses have been tested for leaks Have tested the bypass control solenoid valve and it’s operational I have looked at the throttle cables and they are “within spec” by the book. I can’t tighten them up any more without the throttle sticking and not flicking back So here is the story now. I start up the bike let it warm up, drive it around the block a few times. I get back and it’s still idling high. However which is very weird when I roll the throttle back the other way the idle goes down but the idle is still sporadic but not as bad. As soon as I let go of the throttle from that position it goes back to high idle around 2.2k RPMS
  3. Hi all, first time happened about a week ago, start bike, idle starts to go up for a split second as normal then dips straight back down to below 1000rpm, PGM-FI light flashes twice every 3 or so seconds, continues for roughly 30 odd seconds till the bike cuts out. (PGM-FI orange one, looks like a motor, right side) if i try to re-start straight away, it wil not start at all. if i turn the key off, then back on, starts up fine, idle's properly. run's properly while riding, no problems what so ever. 1st visit to honda last week, they only found a ABS anomaly and asked if i wheelied often, i replied no, never which is the truth !! they found no other anomaly when the bike was hooked up to their honda software.they told me to go home and see if it continues. 2nd visit to Honda this evening (20 min after it had did it again leaving work) and when hooked up, no anomaly detected, ( software see's my bikes id but does not see it as a vfr800, weird ) . so they kept the bike and loaned me a 2015 cbf1000 ( not my style but hey ) sometimes it does it morning and evening, sometimes just the evening. if i stop somewhere for a short while, it runs fine after too. Bike has almost 20 000kms. still under warranty till April this year, and it's a 2014. it's got an arrow end can with the db-killer in, and a techno-globe alarm, both since around 4000kms till now. i always fill up at the same station, and always put only 98 unleaded in; as the euro french manuel advises. the battery is in good health and is hooked up to an optimate if i know i will not be riding for more than 2 days. one of the Honda mechanics said it could be (i'm translating from french here, not sure what the english equivilent is) atmospheric pressure sensor in the fuel injection . so we'll see what happens, will keep you updated. take care .
  4. Hi all, Need some quick advice! Another potential VFR owner here, currently riding a '97 CBR600F which needs changed for something a bit more 2-up and distance friendly (but still sporty). Went to see a couple of red VFR800 Fi models and a couple of Triumph Sprint 955i examples with factory luggage, need to make a decision very soon for one of those or the viffer! I've made a similar post on the Triumph forum so it'll be interesting to see the differences in opinion :-o Sprint #1 ('the heart choice') - '00 red 955i with 21k £1000 Good points: touring screen, triumph hard luggage, verbal history going back years, long MoT, new battery, triumph rack, good chain, bearings, engine runs well Bad points: dry stored for 5 years, noisy (screeching) fuel pump, hard to get into gear when stationary, stiff gearchange, crap tyres,VFR800 Fi (non-VTEC) ('the competition') - '00 red 39k, full MoT £1350 Good points: touring screen, new BT021 tyres, good chain, bearings, soft side bags included, full stainless system with Fuel end can (noisy!) Bad points: no history, not much clutch left, old oil, bit stuttery at low revs
  5. Greetings VF braintrust! I have a 1985 VF750F which I had running but now it barely idles at 1500 with full choke and as soon as you twist the throttle the slightest it stalls - then when you fire it again it reves up to 3000 and quickly falls to 1500. I thought it was the fuel pump or relay and got different ones of each - that did not seem to be the problem. The fuel pump moves some fuel ... Any thoughts? I am wondering about whether CDI's are calling for fuel (if that is indeed part of their role)? Thanks for any advice! Ted from Alberta [Ps - the roads are dry up here and even though it is cold I would still ride!]
  6. Hello once again ! I will try to put this as short as possible. Thank you for your patience =D. So I recently bought a Honda VFR 750 RC36 1990.. The bikes look is modified (I am finishing what PO started)I think the only related to my"problem" in this could be the 190 rear tire. The engine is as far as I know complete stock (except the wings slip on). So here is the thing, the bike starts from the first crank,even if it sits for month, no choke needed.Works like the perfectly healthy bike (i noticed a little knock sound while idleing,but I think it is because of too low idle (it is about 800rpm, even lower when hot) or maybe the clutch bearing (since the sound almost completly go away when I engage the clutch). If you rev it a little in neutral the throttle reaction is amazing and fast..There is a issue with temp. gauge.. The gauge never goes up past 1/4 no matter how long the ride is,and it is obvious that the bike is warm (vent/cooler starts while waiting on the traffic lights,huge amounts of hot air coming from a bike, so I am not suspecting a thermostat) While riding: 2 things I noticed: 1st there are no quiet detonations/backfireing like on "normal bikes with slip on" but while engine braking there pops a LOOOUUUDDD BOOOOMM.. The loudest I heard on the street bike ( and I had a few "poper bikes"). If I accelerate little more aggressively and then let off the throttle the pop would be even louder. 2nd. I was riding it like a granny all the time so I decided to give it a little speed. So I opened the full throttle in 1st, the bike jumped to 10 000rpm and kinda stoped there , shifted it to 2nd opened full throttle bike jumped again very fast to 10 000rpm and just stoped there.. No more power producing from there, it didnt sound like the limiter, it just stand there powerless and couldnt pass that 10 000rpm.. And now the problem: While riding it granny style , low rpms etc for entire gas tank. the best I could get is about 22MPG , or about 60 miles per tank ( while gauge got to red reserve mark i tanked it to full, and got 60 miles to that same gauge position). While looking at the consumption experience from my other bikes and from other vfr owners this is brutal.. And gas is very expensive here.. The bike is probably running rich ,but there are no hard gas smells or something. So as this is my first vfr, does this bikes have some known issues (except R/R) to be related with consumption , or should just classic carb detail clean, new air and fuel filter , carb sync, spark plugs do the trick? Thank you!
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