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I have read a number of threads on oil and was hoping to utilize the impressive knowledge base on the forum for options on full synthetic oils and filters for my specific needs. In other words, I would like to know what the expert community would recommend given my situation. Some ideas, while still worthy of celebration for their own intended purpose, may be less relevant (ie, you only use the VFR to ride 10 miles on straight roads with no stops once a month for coffee or Great Grandfather Ulysses used brand X in his Ural with good results). No wars, please. I would like to find a reasonable combination of the following for my specific purposes: 1. MOST IMPORTANT - Long life between changes (6K-8K miles) - I would rather spend my time riding than working on the bike. I realize the interval becomes a slippery slope as it is extended and will probably not exceed 8K. 2. Little drop off in clutch / transmission feel as the oil ages / wears. I generally ride the PACE on twisty NC mountain roads but occasionally test the limits of adhesion in more spirited form with more gear changes and WOT acceleration than average. If shifting or clutch engagement feels like crap after 2K miles (or immediately after the oil is changed as I have read in some experiences), it doesn't matter if I can safely go another 8K. If I don't enjoy the ride due to clunky shifting or grabbing/slipping clutch, I have no use for the oil. Are there aftermarket clutch plates that tolerate these issues better? 3. Long engine / transmission / clutch life should be maintained. The bike should make it to 100K+ miles without accelerated wear of parts, all other factors being equal. This is all pointless if I need an engine rebuild at 60K (now at 18K) that could have been prevented. Again, I would rather spend my time riding than working on the bike. I realize VFRs are bulletproof and one could use suntan oil (credit: Kimball), but I would rather not test this theory under extreme conditions on the middle of the Cherohala Skyway. 4. A rare track day, maybe once a year, should not have significant detrimental effect, although I would probably change the oil sooner if this is added to the mix. I care very little about the following: 1. Price. I will pay 5-6x as much for oil / filter if there is no other way to attain 6-8K mile oil change intervals with minimal drop-off in function given my riding style. I am not looking to cut corners just for the sake of spending less. That being said, if the performance results are equivalent or nearly so, I would rather pay less. If it is cheaper to have my bike towed to the dealer for service with more frequent oil changes, that would also be a deal breaker. 2. Extra noises from CCTs, etc. I generally wear ear plugs and listen to music. The major deal breaker would be the noises indicate inadequate lubrication which will accelerate part wear. 3. What a specific oil or filter was initially designed for. If there is proof the oil does the job in the VFR via objective and subjective testing, I don't care if it originally was designed for cargo planes flying rubber dog sh*t out of Hong Kong. 4. Brand loyalty, humerous ads, beautiful women in ads, sponsored riders, etc. These things can be great, but I'm not interested in confusing oil performance for marketing performance. 5. The oil increases gas mileage or horsepower ratings. These are icing on the cake. Regarding oils: I have temporarily excluded non-synthetic or semi-synthetic oils due to generally lower mileage intervals, although will consider semis if there are major performance exclusions (as above) with full synthetic options. However, I know some riders have used semi-synthetic oils due to performance issues of full synthetics. If there is evidence otherwise, please inform. I usually don't ride in extreme cold weather below 40F, or in hot weather above 100F. However, I will pay a little more for an oil capable of these tasks, all else being equal. Regarding filters: I plan on changing the filter with each oil change. Some have written the paper filters begin to degrade after mileage / time passes. I will put 6-8K miles per year on the bike, so time is less of an issue than mileage. I have noticed that Purolator put out a synthetic version (PSL series) of its popular filter to minimize degradation over longer synthetic intervals (it appears there were some initial quality control issues of overspray and sloppy glue which have been resolved, hopefully?). There was also a warning on the Purolator website to not use the Pure One filters on motorcycles, although this seems questionable. Should I use a Pure One / PSL series anyway since it otherwise seems to be a good choice to fit my criteria? Since size does seem to matter, I was planning to use the 3.5 inch model over the 2.5, since it should be able to hold more waste debris. However, I am told this can be a bit difficult with stock EVAP parts still in place (how much more difficult?). Can I still use the lobster claw style oil filter grip or is the added length only a problem with the ratchet attachment version? Will I be satisfied with the 2.5 for performance and ease of installation? Sorry for another oil thread, and please be civil. If specific oils / filters are recommended, please include reasons that will satisfy or oppose the conditions above. I especially want to hear from BR and his 100K+ machine. If I can use the same oil in my BMW K12S, which is part of the reason I want a full synthetic oil for the VFR, all the better.

Like the title says... if your a K&N filter owner or have been in the past... how do/did you clean and reoil yours? Did you use the OEM K&N cleaning and oiling products or some other option? How did you decide on wht alternative products to use? I use warm water with dishwashing liquid, a shower head with medium pressure... always careful not to overdo the water pressure (never a high-pressure Gurney or Karscher car washer type) a couple of days to dry out and a fairly light rattlecan chain oil by Kraaft that I have always used on my chains (it's not a gunky teflon chainlube and it's not so light that it drips into the airbox in hot summer weather). If I need to use the bike I throw in an OEM paper filter which I still have (in good nick) while I wait for the K&N to dry. Got about 100,000 km out of mine so far. Lets hear your version...

Sorry to bother everyone with a simple question, but I've searched the site and the web to no avail. What's the torque spec for the bolts that hold on the clutch oil filter cover on the DCT? I have the service manual for the standard clutch and it doesn't say. Thanks.