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After months of scouring the internet it became apparent that my VFR was plagued by a similar issue that many have that has no apparent cure. Lumpy idling, stumbling upon acceleration and over all poor running. I did all of the Troubleshooting that's in the repair manual and all checked within spec. Even checking the balance of the starter valves - all was within spec. I have tried various combinations of he PAIR mod as well with very little success. There was a lot of recommendation to use a PowerCommander but there was generally a divide where it either exacerbated the problems or only mildly made them better. In my research I came across the RapidBike Racing and Evo modules. What piqued my interest with this module over the PowerCommander was this module utilizes the O2 sensors and has the ability to adjust the fueling in the lower spectrum of the RPM which cant be modified by simpler modules such as the PowerCommander. The biggest downside was the hefty price tag. a few more hundred over the PowerCommander. But the results reported by all seemed promising so I bit the bullet and ordered myself one. Well, it took nearly 2 months to receive which was incredibly disappointing especially specifically ordering directly through RapidBike Canada. None the less, I spent last week installing this module. I was't particularly pleased with trying to stuff this module under the seat (where we all know there is no space already) so i decided to make this installation as unobtrusive and inconspicuous as possible. Check out the photos. Its been about 400Km since I have installed the module and holy $H!T, I cannot express the difference this bike has in performance, smoothness, rideability and overall engine characteristics. The increase in low end torque is unreal! I have played around with a couple of the MAP settings in the module and its only getting better and better as the module self programs Km by Km. So for anyone who is suffering from a similar plague, I highly recommend the RapidBike Module.

2007 Honda VFR800 for sale with less than 6,800 miles! I am the 2nd owner. The bike was dropped by the first owner, apparently while stationary, cosmetic damage only (see photos). I am moving overseas so I must part with my beloved. - Oil: changed about 800 miles ago with full synthetic. - Coolant: changed about 800 miles ago. - New Yuasa battery about 800 miles ago. - Tires: Front looks good, rear is not bad but a replacement should be on your radar. - Leo Vince slip ons - Power commander - Battery Tender quick connect - Center stand - Tags good until October 2022, title in hand $5k. Pick up in Seattle area.

I have a 1998 VFR800 with a clean non-op title. I bought it from someone who didn't disclose it had head gasket issues, so it has been sitting for a few years since I discovered that. It has ~35,000 miles on it and the battery is dead. The cool part is this bike came with the desirable Wolf Brothers under seat exhaust. While the bike ran it sounded incredible. I also have a print version of the factory workshop manual. Let me know if you have any questions. Lets start at $2500 OBO. I am located in Bakersfield, CA.

Well, I hope this sheds light on things and helps people with their electrical woes... hope it helps me too hahahaha. :blink: My bike's history: 2003 VTEC (Spain: so no wiring harness nor stator recall) Installed VFRness around 55000 km. 1st stator fried at around 65000 km Replaced with aftermarket stator. Short time later R/R fried (dead battery put me onto it... stator readings were fine) Replaced both 2nd stator fried at 75000 km Replaced with OEM stator and replaced R/R (aftermarket) and battery (YTZ14s) just in case. Few days later the stator-R/R connector fried. Cut out the connector from the equation and hardwired stator to R/R. 85000 km (just the other week) I was going over the electrical system and noticed the 3 yellow wires dowstream from stator-R/R connector (that is to say: between this connector and the R/R) getting very hot... disconnected it to take stator readings... fine... connected it back up and it started to smoke... shut off bike and curse Mother Honda and the horse she rode in on. Discovered that one of the yellow wires was so hot you couldn't even touch it... the others were relatively cool (they will warm up, this is normal, but usually you can keep hold on them for several seconds at least... even longer is better). So my question to myself and fellow VFR buddies was... R/R or Stator?? An engineer friend of mine who deals with this stuff all day long had the brilliant idea of pulling the hot one and taking readings to see if at least this might get one back home... it probably would work if you disconnected one headlight and were real smooth on the throttle as the rectification of the AC volts would no longer level peak voltage into a smooth DC wave... and if you're radiator fan weren't coming on all the time (i.e. cool ambient temps)... and you didn't spend too long with the motor idling.... anyway, this is just a long-way-from-home desperate-act-of-survival tip... So, in order to eliminate R/R or Stator as the culprit, we swapped the order of the wires around... let's call the female half of the connector (stator side) F and the male half (R/R side) M... so wire-wise we have the stock order of F1-M1, F2-M2, F3-M3. The M side wires are the ones getting hot and we had removed these from the white plastic housing and stuck them into the female housing in a different order... previously F1-M1 would get hot (well, really M1, but M1 connected into F1)... if we rearranged things, as in F1-M2, F2-M3, F3-M1... then if F1-M2 were the one heating up, the rpoblem would probably reside in the stator side of things... but actually F3-M1 was the one getting BBQ hot... so it was fairly certain the R/R was fugged... While we were at it, we decided to check out the (famous over here in Spain) BYC... bit like KFC... Big Yellow Connector (read "Kentucky Fried Connector")... this is a reasonably large yellow connector through which a whole bunch of ground wires run, in the front subharness... it's not really large in size, but there are 12 wires running through it... each of a different thickness (guage)... three thicker ones and the rest are puny. This connector seems to join all sorts of ground wires (seemingly from sensors and the like) but with the surprising effectiveness of an ashtray on a VFR. Nill, null, zero, ziltch, none and sweet f-a effectiveness. It's a piece of crap and hardly creates any decent connections whatsoever. So we eliminated the connector, twirled the ends together and wrapped another section of cable around this (to bolt the other end of this to ground on the chassis) and soldered the lot with a torch solderer... I can say my VTEC transition and Fi system in general is running smoother so this probably means the ECU is receiving proper readings from sensors now because the surging issues had been getting intolerable lately. I'm currently running a second hand OEM R/R a buddy lent to me for the meantime... Although I picked up, courtesy of Josh (Tightwad) at Wiremybike.com... the supposedly YOU-BEAUT mofset supercool R/R unit... so I'll be installing it this weekend to see how it goes... thing is it doesn't have the B&W feedback... so wondering if I should wire in the one from the VFRness (which I currently have completely disconnected) or not bother... I'm getting a stable 14,3 V with the 2nd hand OEM R/R... battery reads 12,9... Seems OK but it used to give out 14,6 V... before all this. Keen to try out the Mofsetter... 'cause I'm about to give up on the VTEC forever.... hope this helps people... Link to 5th gen equivalent: https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/66045-urethra-i-found-it/&do=embed&comment=773553&embedComment=773553&embedDo=findComment#comment-773553

So I rode my bike into work and when I went to start her for ride home. Seemed like my battery was dead... no problem there’s a jump box... famous last words... I get bike started and ride home about ten minutes. Park. Next day go to start bike. No power. Smh look down and notice my harness from ignition and start stop switch are melted and grounded out... uh o... well it’s early spring and I had just put new tires on and recovered my saddle.... so I’m thinking I’ll band aid this and just re solder ... pull everything off start soldering then decide, maybe cheap is not the way to go... So I order an aftermarket ignition (still being cheap... fu*%&$) And put it and a used switch back on. Nothing no power lights at all.... Look at main fuse looks ok. Look through ignition info that came with it, realized that this ignition works w vfr but not wired/connected as such... unplug, finish soldering original toasty ignition. Plug in, Nothing... Well that was last year... Fortunately I have another bike so I was able to ride at least part of the season... (on my bike I don’t have a new set of tires on :(. ) So my question is.... 1.What might I have f’d up either by using a boost box to jump? 2. By shorting out with improperly wired aftermarket ignition 3. Other than main fuse any other fuses or electrical components I should test first? rectifier? computer? Thanks for any insight. Much appreciated!