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Hi VFR owners and enthusiasts, will you please help me with my dilemma? I saved up some money to put into my VFR (Fi 01) and I have bought a few upgrades for it (future birthday gifts, you know). I wanted bars and stuff that goes along with it 😀 so I got : -LSL superbike handlebars conversion kit (+some bar weights to go with them...I want to keep the stock ones in case I want to return to original form) -Fren Tubo custom braided brake line kit (longer to be able to route them "stock" way even with higher bars) -New steering head bearings ("tapered" set from Tourmax to rid me of old sticky "balls" I've got...😁No pun intended, when I first wrote this) -New (read longer) throttle cables (from 1100 PanEuropean) to keep the cable routing original -And finally new chain and sprockets I've got several questions for people who have done similar mods or just have more experience than me, please. I can do the handlebar conversion by myself BUT I cannot do the other "supporting" mods because I lack tools and experience with them (riveter for the chain and I definetely cannot bleed empty brake lines without tools or set the bearings properly without messing up) 1) In which order should I tackle the mods? All at once, or in small portions? 2) If I give this job to a mechanic, how much should I expect to pay? (maybe I could work with him and help him? ) 3) Clutch hose was promised by supplier of the LSL kit but none arrived, when I contacted him he said it is a mistake on his web (confirmed by LSL that they do not supply the lines)... I want to do the mods with the stock line which should be possible... If I have to change the line, I will go with braided line as it has to be cheaper than OEM Honda line which costs more than 100$ here. The question is: "Are there any differences between hydraulic clutch line and brake lines/ fittings? Which fluid is used? My guess is it is hydraulic but haven't checked the manual yet. 4) Should I watch out for some specific problems?/ Should the mechanic be prepared for something? He services my friends Varadero (also linked brakes, similar year of manufacture) which he rebuild after a nasty crash from bottom up and he knows his stuff so I trust him but still... VFRs have their specific needs 5) I own the bike for a short time so I don't know much about previous service history. Should I clean the calipers even though they work fine just because the brake lines will be apart? I will definetly remember something right after I post this so thank you in advance for your help and please have patience with me. Martin

Hi everyone, I've just got my first VFR 800 5 gen., model year 2001. The bike has exhaust done by previous owner but otherwise is stock and in good condition. After the first preventive maintenance (oil,coolant, filters, brake fluid /clutch fluid, chain & sprockets, tires) what are the first steps you've taken? I am thinking about VFRness to lighten the load on charging system, new tires and helibars... Any other suggestions / good mods for vfr? Thanks in advance STcz

Please forgive my laziness and lack of research, but I have a simple question for those who understand what a 'cat' does ... If I remove the entire stock exhaust system from my 2001 (pre-VTEC) VFR800 and replace it with this complete Delkovic system ... Link ... ... then how will it affect the running of the bike (given that the sensors previously attached to the Catalytic convertor will now not be attached to anything)? Thanks, in advance, for your replies. Andy

So last year I crashed my 2001, low-sided it in a corner causing it to flip. Crash caused a bent rear subframe and slightly bent front fairing stay (amongst other things). New subframe was installed, and bike was on the road again. Ever since then I've noticed a slight wobble at speed when there's a bump in the road. Also seems to happen on sharp deceleration. Doesn't cause a tank slapper or anything, but it feels a bit unstable. It doesn't seem to happen at low speed as far as I can tell, but it might be that I'm just used to it now. Researching this kind of thing, it looks like there are a few things that could be wrong: Head bearings (replaced last year with tapered). I haven't checked the torque on these recently, possibly could be loose? Forks bent. No, checked with run-out gauge. Wheel bearings. Doesn't seem to be any play. Tire pressures. At spec, PR3s installed. Frame bent. Don't think this is the case, measured the wheel alignment as per haynes manual and found no difference, but wasn't particularly accurate. I'm not sure if this is all in my head, or if there's actually a problem. Am I missing something basic?