quicknick

I'm a long time Mobil 1 advocate and it has always tested at or new the top of every category, but I recently made the switch to

Shell Rotella T Synthetic based on it's test results(always right up there with MB 1) and lower cost the MB 1 also one of the few "C" rated oils out there which seem to be good for our bikes.

My MB Diesel, track bike and VFR all have Rotella T Synthetic in them! :thumbsup:

I also like the info on oil found here, they also have a great oil filter cross reference listed to and I now use only WalMart's SuperTech ST 7317 filters as they have superior filtering then most at the cheapest price(made by Champion)

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

I used the Mobile 1 for years, but I think the Rotella is just as good and 2 bucks cheaper per quart. I should probably change it more often. I didn't change it last spring after it sat most of the winter which was probably not a good idea, but didn't take any long stressful rides. When I did change it I noticed the bike ran better. Whoops, won't make that mistake this spring.

Thanks for the replies... After work I'm taking the bike to the dealer for the leaking shock, and depending on what the service manager says just might let the dealer figure it out. I trust this dealership since they're small and family owned...not like the other big Los Angeles area dealerships. Some good advice here though and I appreciate the help...I'm leaning towards a vacuum leak or maybe I plugged something I shouldn't have.

NVR, this may be the only area that I can actually provide some advice and or guidance. I have a similar set up although I have Remus exhaust, K&N and O2 elims. I experienced worse than normal surging after I installed my O2 elims. For somme reason the CPU doesn't always recognize the open loop (or is it closed loop) at start up so you have to turn the key to the on position let it go through it's FI whine and then turn it off. Wait a couple seconds and tunr it back on and then start it. I do this every time now and have no problems. Others have had the same issue. Give that a try without the PCIII first befoe you get drastic. Good luck.

From everything I've read, most people seem to be happy with o2 sensor eliminators or 330 ohm resisters.  So, I decided to try it.  My results were less than favorable.  Now when the bike stumbles/surges in the 4k-5k range, it feels like I lose all of my power.  When I twist the throttle a bit to get out of the stoichiometric mode or when the RPMs get above 5k, it feels like someone just rear-ended me as the bike lurches forward violently. 

My pretty sure I plugged the resistors into the correct spots since the FI light doesn't come on.  My only guess is that I grabbed the wrong resistors from Radio Shack.  The package says 330 ohm, but I'm going to check the colors on the resistor just to make sure.    Until I can figure it out, I'll be removing the resistors and plugging my o2 sensors back in.  <_<  YMMV.

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MFP, when I first put in the O2 sensor eliminators which I purchased for 30 bucks on my Vtech I had the same problem as you described as did a few others on the board. The lurching was terrible. However, I discovered that by turning the ignition on, letting it go through it's whine, then turn it off and then back on and then start the engine, the surging and flat spot are completely eliminated. Why does this happen? No f ing clue. Some think that the computer resets itself after you shut down the bike each time. By "rebooting" the computer it seems to read the open loop. I think Das Bone has documented this too. So leave them in and just on/off/on your bike each time. Beats spending 300 bucks on a PC111.