skuuter

Kuryakan (may be mispelled...... :P ) makes one that mounts with your license plate frame. That's what I have on my Triumph and the wife's Ninja......works great and easy access.............. :thumbsup:

See this is "NOT" free time......I'm "WORKING" on trying to get the motorcycle world to see it all from the "RIGHT" perspective........"MINE"............... :P.....and the "CORRECT" figure now is 4,140, and "DUE" to change.... :unsure:

Good luck on the "perspective thing" here,,,, or are you that good that even the wife sees it your way?? :lol:

...........now that you brought that up........................Uh, no.............. :unsure:

See this is "NOT" free time......I'm "WORKING" on trying to get the motorcycle world to see it all from the "RIGHT" perspective........"MINE"............... :P.....and the "CORRECT" figure now is 4,140, and "DUE" to change.... :unsure:

Someone has more "free time" than I do................. :unsure:

Might be one of those "old as I am" things, but I still like the "feel" of tubular/ upper tree mounted bars. One plus (IMO) of most of the naked bikes including my Speed Triple............ :thumbsup:....also (IMO) clean looks.........

I'm like you Skuuter and very similar in size. I bought another stock seat from a fellow VFRDer and shaved it down. All told, it cost me about $150. I swap out with the shorty to suit a particularly ride. With an inch shaved off, I can flat foot the viffer. The shorty is less comfortable, so I use it mostly for around town riding.

I actually think mine is more comfy than before......feels firmer. Some stock seats I like, others have had to be replaced immediately. The S-3 stocker has been fine, and with me "FIRMER IS ALWAYS BETTER"....in a lot of things......

By now most everyone knows that I'm only 5'7" with a 30" inseam. I love the way my Speed Triple handles and wouldn't dare mess with it. Backing it into parking spaces up on your tip-toes has always been a real problem. I decided to take the "stocker" to a primarily auto upholstery shop. S&W Upholstery in Tullahoma, Tn specializes in award-winning street rod interiors, and have customers from all over the country. I took it there and showed him where I would like to have an inch shaved out and more of a pocket formed to help keep me from sliding forward. "Fantastic Job"......been riding it today and parking in the worst places I can find to get to push it backwards. Only charged me $45 to do it, and it looks "factory". Some of you other "shorter" folks might wanna' look into this alternative on your bike. The VFR seat would lend itself well to this also. Check out the shops in your area................. :thumbsup:

Be sure to post up when the plasma TV is up and going too Will............... :unsure:

Beautiful bike............... :thumbsup:

Great lookin' stuff....bike really looks clean with it on........... :thumbsup:

My ex-wife simply used my 1961 H-D Panhead to open it...right through the fiberglass while I was at work............... <_< ....shoulda' been grounds at the time............. :idea3:

Looks good Will.....but.....it's gonna require the same treatment to the wheels, frame, swingarm, etc., etc., etc.............."WHY" I quit extensive bike modifications some time ago.....the "This leads to That" syndrome...they're never finished.....GOOD LUCK, besides now-a-days lotsa' people have 2nd and 3rd mortgages...... :P but.......I really do like the new look on the mufflers................................... :thumbsup:

The progressive-type wind on the spring and the type riding you stated, will probably negate any damping balance that might be needed if you were "building" for the track......will be interested in the ride report also............ :thumbsup:

I just realized Tuesday I had room for a "double-stack" of Gen Mar risers under my stock bars.

Wow, thats a lot lol. Suprised you don't have ground clearance problems with that. I'm contemplating investing in an Ohlins rear shock, I've just never been able to get the suspension setup the way I want on the rear. Gotta wait til after TMac because that will be a 2 week trip for me so need to save $$$ til then.

With me sitting on it, my bike is "only" 7/8" lower than stock. When you "flip" the triangle, the bike runs up hill to the front. My bike basically has "stock" pitch angle again with the fork lowered to this point. I rode it stock height for 2 1/2 months before lowering it. Backing into parking spaces, low dips in roads at stops, parking lots etc., turned into real issues sometimes. Ya' gotta' do what ya' gotta' do sometime. Besides...not likely to "drag" at my pace......probably have been close sometime riding 2-up, but I factor in all the variables then and ride accordingly.......................................... :rolleyes: :thumbsup: :beer:

Great pictures and instructions........ :thumbsup: ....after flipping the triangle(damn, sometimes being short has it's aggravations), I kept lowering the forks until the ride/ handling suited me again. I just realized Tuesday I had room for a "double-stack" of Gen Mar risers under my stock bars. I rode them just clamped this height for a coupla' days and loved the comfort before I purchased the second set. Now I have the non-swivel safety pegs back in use......turned out great........................... :thumbsup:

id be cautious loosening both legs at same time. seen one person due that with weight on the front and soon as he loosened the second legs lower pintch bolt the both legs went sliding up and a crushed up fender was the outcome.

Put hose clamps around the tubes under the lower tree to catch the tube for safety from this........can use them to set the amount lowered also................................... :beer:

CLEAN....black WOULD look good................ :thumbsup:

Clean looking job............... :thumbsup:

Lots of people prefer to race (cars & bikes) with straight rate springs because of consistency on the smoother better traction surfaces. Also if you race "seriously" it is easier to change the set-up and detect differences. Helps to have several various rates at the track. Variable rate springs work well for "street" riding/ driving because of surfaces and varying speeds/ operator skill levels. Yes, Kevin, you may like your springs at the track with all the "progressive" end loped off................................... :thumbsup:

In a dual rate spring such as the vfr the closer wound springs will bind first - they simply have a shorter distance to travel before binding - once a spring binds the number of effective coils is reduced by the number of coils touching each other! So the close wound springs at the bottom of the fork will bind before the longer wound springs and be removed from the number of effective coils increasing the spring rate at that point....

YES.....Progressive Springs or Progressive Rate Springs

Cool stuff HS, I was playing with this on my F4i a little, but gave up for now. I was cutting off the tight wound end of the spring, I guess that was wrong! :unsure:

On progressive wound springs, cut coils off "regular" part of spring.....NOT the tight-wound end.................. :thumbsup:

Can make coil springs heavier rate by using larger wire or more coils.......progressive rates (heavier the more they're compressed) are achieved by tighter wound coils on one end....................... :thumbsup:

Over 5000 miles with Gen Mars...great, no probs/ complaints..... :thumbsup:

What is your point friend? :unsure:

I'm actually falling over in my avitar! :goofy:

Left you a message over on "Corner Speed".....getting to be quite a few Tennessee people on lately :thumbsup:

Oh sure, call me on that ! <_<

Actually, we stay below 85 mph 95% of the time, but there's this one sweet section on our loop were we just let it fly. :P

I only ride straight roads and never speed..........