VFR FLYER

my only regret was not yet having my pazzo shorties on the bike for my first track day............having been a truck driver most of my life, the clutch is only used for starting and stopping. so then why would your hand get tired? its like the handlebar issue. you buy a sportbike and your arms and back are killing you. you keep riding and practicing skills and pretty soon you want LOWER bars to help you get down low and faster. shorties :comp13:

i think it important to note, that the thickness of the washer doubles the washers thickness at the rear of the bike. one or two washers wouldn't make a lot of difference. however: raising the front fork tubes 5mm (geometry wise) would be a very BIG difference. turn in would be more of a thought process than pushing and pulling on the bars.

the other part that bothers me besides the shims falling out, the mating surface of the shim (slotted steel) bolted tightly against aluminum? :offtopic:

Is there some sort of logical reason Honda would ever put the fuel filter inside the fuel tank?

guess 1. there isn't a cubic inch space available, in and around the tank, throttle bodies and you would need at least 4 cubic inches.........

guess 2. the fuel filter would at as a heat sink for the fuel.........vapor lock.....unless yours runs a lot cooler than mine...........

guess 3. in the tank fuel pumps with filters has become the auto standard.........but not a good reason

this post shall never die! too much good information. i've noticed lately some of these same questions keep coming up, so i decided to add a little more information. if a person has the ability to modifiy the mount for a 929 shock. i would suggest you make a new top bracket rather than use the old one. if you reuse the old one you must grind or cut the top half of the bolt head off for clearence of the top of the shock. this may NEVER be a problem, but i worry just the same. enco sells 1"x1/4"x36" ground flat bar for $22.22. you could still have the 929 shock bought and mounted under $100. your not going to beat that deal!!!! :wheel:

Has any of VFRD's master fabricators gone into the business of making up 929 shock adapter kits for us less gifted members? I am sure there is a market for such a item.

from what rob posted earlier, the 954 shock is not a good option. be advised the 929 install will require some trimming of the battery box. i made several spacers of different length from 1" steel round stock. i have since decided, even painted they would start to rust. (yuk) i bought a length of 1" square bar stock of 6061 aluminum. part is much better (not perfect but i'm trying). the most critical part is the top mount hanger. the 10mm bolt has to be removed and replaced with 120mm length, welded into place. and then the bolt head has to be ground down about half its height. the stock hanger costs $12.01 plus shipping from ron ayers. so they raw costs of parts for me is about $20. rob made his own for $2 ?. having a used hanger would save the $12 but how long would the bike be apart waiting mod. if your still interested, send me a PM

http://www.thefastenerwarehouse.com/catalo...361/2509109.htm

100pc bag $23 shipped.

i bought a bag of 100pcs only to find out they are 6.4mm instead of 6mm. side by side comparison these replacments are huge. best i found so far in 6mm is #19787 by Au-ve-co products Cold Spring, Ky 41076. if anyone is interested i will try and find the receipt..................

i am confused? (again!) i have a y2k and removing the seat has nothing to do with these bolts. when i commute with the bike i use these bolts to tie on my lunch box (six pack cooler(got to have good lunch)). i fail to see any benefit (but i'm married so what do i know!)

i have noticed that in hs how-tos the pic are always excellant however; the most trick thing here is in the finished project photo has a shadow photographer :thumbsup:

Well, stay tuned then, I'll post my results from Ricks as soon as I have some. Probably be about a week.

just curious if you checked your three way diode? (looks like a fuse on front of fuse block but has three prongs) i do not kow what the result would be with a bad leg or if it was toast. its purpose is to change your ac generation to dc but if part of it was bad?????????

Battery is brand new, My battery tender holds directly at 12v. I had just taken it off the tender, so that explains the low voltage.

As for the resistance between the legs, honda says that it should be between 0.1 - 1.0 ohm.

ANY charging system for 12v, charges at least 13.6v and your charged battery should read at least 12.6v. so i am wondering as to the condition of your meter. as for heat affecting readings, MOST DIFFINATELY. the R/R spends most of its life cooking off extra amperage. heat is what kills the R/R. the stator can be over heated also. a cold stator can test fine but when heated wires may be shorting within that loop causing low output on that leg and not show any reading to ground. you certainly did your homework and complete checks. not cheap but i would change both R/R and stator. best..........