afinepoint

I own an 07 25th anniversary RWB. I loved it and it currently has 43734 miles. Just about all highway and back roads. Some track days but as we know the VFR with it's side radiators doesn't like being pushed. Regular overheating and losing coolant on the track ended those track days. Water wetter made no difference. I've done the standard maintenance wear items brakes, chain, plugs etc. The bike has set for several years which has been worse for it than all of the active years. I have started and ran the engine regularly during that time but I would definitely be concerned there regarding the one you are looking at. I replaced the fuel pump and relay a week ago. The fuel lever sender has also failed. Again sitting is bad especially for the fuel system. I'm sure the injectors could use a cleaning but it idles smoothly. Let's see things that broke on me early on me? Nothing significant. Other issues? I did have to run down a ground fairly early on. It turned out to be a bared wire near the triple tree. Honda had pull the harness so tightly friction eventually cause insulation failure. I would ensure all brake and clutch lines have been flushed. Or do it. Ridden or not it needs doing. Look closely for cracked(ing) lines, hoses, wire harnesses. Anything rubber. Check throttle snappy. Place the bike on the center stand, start the engine and move the handlebars side to side. The rpm's shouldn't change. There is a serious issue if they do. Is the windscreen original? If so and yellowing you will be replacing it soon. There was only one (OEM) available in the country as of a week ago. I found the windscreen fairing threads to be a weak point. I've had to regularly replace those annoying fairing clips over the years. They are $4.50/per. I don't know. Just be "optimistically sceptical". Good luck.

Purring like a 800cc kitten.

Flow test SAT. Minimum required 150 cc/ 10 sec. Results 720cc/10 sec.

Relay replaced. It was bad. A real pain to remove from ECM plate. FYI pushing up while twisting to the right worked. There is a frame member mm's above it that will prevent pulling straight off. Apply gentle force to prevent damaging the rubber protective boot. The boot would not separate from the relay regardless. So my old trick of armor all worked like a charm. Slid right off. Also it is important to use test equipment for troubleshooting. The old relay "clicked" just fine when voltage was applied but the secondary side was OOC. A multi meter proved this. Also the nomenclature of the new relay differs from the old. New Honda part # 38501-GN2-014. Ears, eyes etc are quick and effective but are subjective and easily missed. Flow testing of new pump next.

Honda pump $742. Aftermarket $90. Manufacturer Yezoauto. Amazon. No reviews. Thoughts? I know the cheaper is going to be a roll of the dice but there is that wonderful Amazon 30 day no question return window. Relay ordered.

Jumpered power to pump. Nothing. No flow from return line. Will order pump and relay. Also FYI 7/32 hose fits the overflow nipple perfectly. Use a brake hose clamp.

Fuel relay decided to fail so I'll add that to the list.

Got back to the VFR. There is 12V at the pump for 3 seconds with key to ON. I can still hear a faint sound in the tank which stops when the FI light goes out. Listening with an automotive stethoscope I can't hear a thing. Absolute silence. The flow test sounds simple provided my big hands can dislodge the fuel relay to jumper it.

I'd like to do a pressure test however the manual describes Honda's required adapter and sealing washers. I'll check the relay then look at doing a Fuel flow rate check. That should tell me if the pump is degraded or OOC. I figure it's not a filter issue since the problem was sudden. Again thanks for the responses.

Thanks guys. I'll move it to the top of the list. I guess I was thinking can't hear it clearly "eh must be primed". The smell of gas misled me as well. I was expecting more sound. I got up early for the quiet. Turning the key to ON there is the distinct click of a relay followed by a muted sound like when you let air out of a tire. It stops in a couple of seconds. Was really hoping for a loose wire or blown fuse. I still need to find the pump fuse. With the tank up I'll test the relay. I've a new auto circuit tester that needs a job. With it I can jumper 12V to the pump. Much appreciate the redirect back to the pump. That was down the list.

I thought about it but having the FI light extinguish as it has always done (KO no cranking) and unburned gas out the exhaust when cranking made me doubtful about the pump being an issue. I never found a fuse labeled pump. Unfortunately I don't have the means to test the pressure.

To get to it my 2007 decided to abruptly not start days ago. It sits under a cover and I start and run the engine periodically. I can't ride it as I'm sorting out a clutch issue. Perhaps more of that later.. The bike has ALWAYS started within a few cranks. It just turns over now. I can smell unburned gas at the exhaust. Gas is in tank. Battery fully charged. Battery voltage present at coil pins. Spark from plug grounded against engine. Fuses behind fairings good. Two large fuses near battery good. With an ear to the tank when the key is turned to ON I hear a click but nothing more. FI light comes on and goes out in seconds. Low oil and ABS lights remain lit as expected. Can't find wiring issues. There is no HISS light or any light for that matter on the Tach. When I find it I'll check the ECM and Ignition pulse generator 43,724 on odometer. Thoughts? There have been no engine issues until now.

Will rebuild master cylinder. Only kits exist can not get new master cylinder. Bike too old. So I will not be replacing the orifice but plan to blow it out.

This would cause poor disengagement due to the air bubble. My issue is the opposite. Great disengagement no engaging.

No pressure being retained. Opened bleed port on slave and little came out. Nothing found in master cylinder bleed port but I did not have a fine wire to probe. I just poked with a small paper clip. Placed bike on center stand. In gear rear wheel locks with clutch lever released and turns with resistance with lever squeezed. Started next day. Outside temperature 54°. Clutch engaged initially. Checked again with engine warm about 170°. Clutch lightly engage then wouldn't. Clutch friction point way to far out on lever. Almost at point where lever sits. I know the clutch pack is correctly installed.