thet2

Hi Guys,

Issue resolved, i put an OEM pack clutch from honda and all works perfectly, no slipping and good biting point.

Thanks

yeah my suspicions were right, the sleets they sent me are 2.5mm, the weird thing is the old steels were 2.61mm, i havent measured the friction disks yet but they are no where near the 2,9-3,08 mark.

i think i will have to bite the bullet and buy a new set of oem disks and steels to start fresh and at the good values

Thanks guys

Hi,

i'm getting somewhere, do you guys happen to have a measurement of the steels and clutch disk thickness (OEM ones if possible)

Thanks

Well still no luck :(, i'm going to lose it!

on the plus side the clutch is harder, feels like the clutch bites a hair more.

if anyone has a magical idea!

thx

21 hours ago, Grum said:

Well, this may be a long shot, but I do recall a guy who incorrectly assembled the clutch Slave Cylinder.

He actually fitted the slave piston back the front!

It caused the same effect, he also thought that the push rod was too long.

Guess its worth checking.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, but if you ever took one apart you would see it’s almost impossible to mount it with the piston backwards.

I’m going to disassemble the master, clean and rebuild and see what it’s like

4 hours ago, Thumbs said:

The bearing in the pressure plate is not held in, it’s prone to tip and jam, so with actuating rod removed the clutch connects with the gearbox, hydraulics assembly will push the rod out and disconnect the gearbox 

 

I’ve fixed mine in place with Loctite bearing fit

 

You can see if this is happening through the oil filler as the hydraulics are fitted 

 

Tourmax kit is quality 

I had bought the same but took it all apart today and it’s well seated, the pushrod is in the push bucket correctly too

apart from the clutch being open the clutch feels good at the lever

i’ve ordered a rebuild kit for the clutch master, I saw a similar issue so apart from this and the line all has been changed.

I’m really thinking it’s hydraulic side, might buy a speedy bleed nipple also, mights help.

if you have any ideas in the mean time, I’m a taker

HI Guys,

I've taken everything apart, the clutch is per the service manual, i think the problem lays with the hydraulic system, i say this as the clutch disk and liners are the same as the old setup, as soon as i push the rod in the lutch has friction, then i can see it push the clutch open slightly (enough for me to be able to push the disks from side to side) it's as if the rod is too long.

Just to recapitulate, this is what i've done so far:

Changed friction and steels

flushed the complete clutch liquid

rebuilt slave clutch cylinder

I'm at a loss, if anyone has an idea?

Thanks

12 hours ago, V4 Rosso said:

You can find even better diagrams & more in the factory service manual:

 

Thank you, the "service manual" i had was missing all the diagrams, this one is much more in detail. i will try and take it all apart again this weekend and recheck everything.

16 hours ago, BusyLittleShop said:

Ron Ayers diagram...

 

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053f59af870021c54be7ae2/clutch[/img]

Thanks!!!

Yep 100%, what i dont understand is without the slave cylinder in it works as intended, i have ordered a new seal, i’m going to take the cover off and recheck everything, in my version of workshop manual there isnt a full diagram, does anyone have a good one i can cross reference to?

thanks!

On 5/23/2022 at 1:39 AM, VFR750F3 said:

Positive experience matters.   You can tell Sheldon to stick to physics.  I do the same to my clutch.

https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?179153-zip-tie-your-clutch-lever-instead-of-frequent-bleeding

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/technical-discussion-28/zip-tie-brake-lever-after-bleeding-11641/

 

Lets start over

When you changed the clutch did you zip tie the clutch lever yes or no

Is the clutch lever soft or hard does it feel like the brake lever both are 12.7mm masters yes or no

If you did not zip tie you need to keep rebleeding it is a pain in the butt.  I have been there many times when I upgraded to stainless steel lines.

Do not let the reservoir go empty.  Bleed the banjo nut also

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/246796-bleeding-brakes-from-banjo-bolts/

 

Did everything work correctly before you replaced the clutch plates?

Yeah everything worked fine just clutch slipping when Vtec kicked in, i didnt zip tie the lever as i replaced the liquid to the clutch system too. i've bled alot of Clutches and brakes in my like and this is the first time i've had this kid of problem.

Hi Guys, sorry had been travelling for work for the last 2 weeks and hadn't had time to get back to this, I managed to do some testing this weekend:

Slave cylinder removed, i can turn the bike on, push it and put it in gear and it acts normal. 

Reinstalled the clutch slave and it's as if the clutch is fully open at all times.

I've rebuilt the clutch slave with a tourmax kit, new seal, pushrod seal and new spring, purged the clutch again and same, i can feel the clutch lever actioning the actual clutch and it feels like the clutch should but again if i pull the clutch, put in to gear and release clutch, it doesn't move and it's as if the clutch is pulled.

It's driving me nuts as you can imagine.

PS: all is original on my bike apart from clutch kit (TRW complete kit)

22 hours ago, VFR750F3 said:

Did you zip tie clutch handle before removing slave?  It sound like you need to rebleed.  Try this first zip tie the clutch handle bar overnight and remove screws to oil resovoir for air to move up.

Hi, thanks for the reply!

i havent taken the slave out yet but i will try your tip first, if not i’ll take the slave out and try and re-bleed

Hi, i just replaced the clutch disks, steels and springs on my VFR 800 vtec abs and have a weird issue

Before changing all this i had the clutch slipping, i had cleaned and replaced the clutch oil as had obviously never been changed and was disgusting.

I had replaced and bled the system and the clutch feel was much better but still slipping. The steels seemed warped but the clutch in good condition.

i replaced the lot as i wanted to start fresh, however not i have this issue:

bike on, i put the gear in, leave the clutch out, and it doesnt move, dunno if it's my imagination but if i leave the clutch out very very slowly i feel like it creeps forward but clutch slips.

Any ideas what to look at? slave clutch?

One note, when i was tighting the bolts on the pressure plate the plate would spin, i had to put a gear in, is this normal?

Thanks for any advise