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TW215

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Posts posted by TW215

  1. I also ride only in the twisties. Yesterday, I rode from 11:30 until 7:59. Nothing but twists. I push very hard, and carry a load of speed through the curves. I feel like the most important tire is the front. I want it to stick. I can deal with a loose rear tire much better than a loose front.

    I'm running the Pirelli Diablo Corsa on the front and rear. I've not tried the Pilot Power. In my mind, the Diablo is confidence inspiring. As far as wear goes, it appears the rear is wearing twice as fast as the front.

    Just my $.02. I don't want you guys to miss me too much. :blink:

  2. The 833 seems a bit larger at 6"(L) x 3"(W) x 3"(D), while the 539 seems a bit smaller at 4"(L) x 2"(W) x 2"(D) which allows it to fit inside the risers.

    I have a tank bag, but it is sometimes more than I need to carry when I'm out for a swift run dragging my knee around the local loop. I'm going to give the 539 a go.

    New Enough has them at a discount price of $13 (14.95 retail). They also have the 833 for $18 ($19.99 retail).

    http://www.newenoughhp.com/joe_rocket_rapi...ee_bag_page.htm

    Thanks for the tip. This is exactly what I've been looking for.

  3. I always learn something when Trace posts up. :beer:

    I'd read your earlier post about the "air turbulence - scientific research" stuff, and agree -logically- about once the air passes the filter,... our mods (right or wrong) are insignificant. My thinking is pretty basic... open it up to allow zero restrictions against engine draw... and if it's a mistake heck I'll just buy a air box top to replace the hack job.

    But... it did make a change of some sorts. I ride mine for sport only. I get my kit on... fire her up... get her out of the basement... head to the tight twisties... 15 minutes later I'm in heaven haulin' ass. This happens 2... sometimes 3 times a week. And it just might be my mind, but before the hack... the front tire was no where as light as it seems after the mod. It just pulls harder out of the corners. That's all.

    I keep coming back to this thread -and excellent Web site- to get a far better understanding of what this bike can do, and I have to thank you guys for your very knowledgeable and scientific approach to the process. Thanks for not saying, "TW, you're a dumb a** for hacking that air box!".

  4. I'm no mechanical engineer... promise. So if this question sounds really stupid... go easy on the "blazing arrows".

    In my ill logically thinking mind, it seems the combustion engine system works something similar to this (and this is written in WAY un-technical terms)... we have an air box (that's snorkeled for sound regulation purposes)... we have fuel sprayed into a combustion chamber that is ignited... dropping a piston that in turn creates a draw for more air through the suffocating air box. When the "restricted" air finally fills the piston chamber... the ignition process begins again... BUT that process -because of the restricted air flow- causes some kind of lag. Seems the throttle "blip" is kind of sluggish because of the restricted air flow.

    Here in this thread, we're trying to inject more fuel to get a quicker response, or more draw from the combustion chamber,... so that the restricted air box will have more air volume faster for a quicker response.

    I'm scratching my head. :joystick:

    I remember as a kid, we'd flip the air filter lid on our carburetor cars so that it would "breath" easier (plus we thought it sounded cool). I know about the "louder sound causes me to think I'm going faster" logic. We see where the Australians are creating a BFI - Big Freakin' Intake - mod for their Toyota Soarers (Lexus SC400), to bypass the completely restricting snorkel on this car's air box, and they swear by the increased "breathe-ability" of this mod. I've read the threads here in VFRd about the snorkel mod, as well as read where some guys added a few more holes in the top of the air box with seemingly good results.

    So,... I'm scratching my head again. :joystick:

    I did the "snorkel mod" as posted here on VFRd, and I had what seemed like good results. So... I go back and drink several more beers, and ponder these thoughts.

    Here's my question,... if we don't care about the sound dampening features of the Honda designed air box,... why the heck can't we just cut the top hump off our air boxes so this bad boy can breathe???

    Now... I have zero doubts someone on this Forum will inform me that I've screwed up big time,... or that this will cause some kind of fouling complications,... or will burn the engine,... or something I have no clue about... BUT after several more beers... I took my handy "Miracle Blade" (I'm a bachelor and I ain't using it for anything else), and cut that top hump right off the air box.

    Riding experience??? Sha-freakin-ZAMM. This was the only mod done at the time, so I can say this experience is directly related to the bike being able to BREATHE. I can raise the front wheel in 3rd gear by just slamming the throttle. It seems like the bike screams. I get to the redline in an instant. I always wear earplugs... so the sound is not boggling my mind, but the roar from the velocity stacks is up there.

    It seems to have thrown the thrill in "thrillzilla". :beer:

    OK... there's the mod... done by someone that doesn't know squat about all the pitfalls... so fire away.

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