Funkotron

42 minutes ago, Cogswell said:

Don't know about the FPR question - but those are very low numbers.  

heads are all equal temperatures. 

Coolant should be in the 180 degree range +/-. 

Also, do you have a tuning module installed?

well i wouldn't say i was taking it easy out there, but i should probably start a new thread about it. it's always run hot so i put a fan override, a 1.6 bar cap, and distilled water with water wetter in it to avoid barrelling past 220F coolant temp in slow stuff. it averaged 175F but dropped down to 165F up in the mountains in the rain which i wasn't thrilled with, however I finally managed to not hit runaway conditions in the twisties and keep it under 200F!

thanks for the reply!

On 7/25/2021 at 4:41 PM, ShipFixer said:

But I still managed 42mpg with saddlebags, which equals what the bike got when new (42 with, 46 without). 

My '98 just got around 28 mpg in similar conditions, but I managed to get it down to 23.8 one tank where we picked up the pace. I don't think I ever saw above 35 even before the headers and pc3. Are other people getting similar numbers on their 5th gens or should i get a new fuel pressure regulator?

First run set install report. I made a small clearance cut in chin fairing and added heatshield including around right fairing boss just below that opening. The center stand just barely rubs in its upright position - works for me. I had it wedged on install but by the time it was all torqued it just touches. I bet I could clear it if I had another set of gaskets. Repacked the carbon pipe and used permatex copper on the two slip joints after expanding the mid pipe with an autozone tool and impact gun. Have the KN filter now and PC3 with the 302 map and will try the full erion map next.

Thanks everyone for the work getting this together and the tips in this thread to get it installed. Sounds incredible and much better low end driveability and mid range torque!

got em on. woah they're good

21 minutes ago, ScottieDucati said:

Or temperature mitigation.
 

That's why I researched it. I'm still trying to figure out why my bike runs so hot and what can be done about it.

I chimed in because I don't think you can properly ceramic coat these on the inside, so there's a potential risk compared to leaving the SS on its own (which we know will last).

I don't have enough experience to know if the SS tube would be compromised by retaining higher temperatures, but it doesn't look like our headers could be completely coated on the inside.

12 hours ago, Marvelicious said:

The reputable shop in my area routinely coats headers both inside and out. A properly applied coating inside the header seems likely to make up the difference in retained heat and the potential to drop the external temperature of the headers by 600 degrees has got to be worth considering...

This is from Swaintech: http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/white-lightning-exhaust-coatings/

Quote

On naturally aspirated motors (non-turbo), we will typically coat the inside of headers as deep as possible. However, if we think the coating will interfere with the fit of the header to the motor or the header to the mating exhaust part, we will typically mask off those surfaces. Remember our coating is about .015” thick, not a thin paint. If there is masking you want to have done, be sure to let us know by marking this right on the part with a marker so we know what you want. If you want us to coat the inside of the part, let us know so we can process the part the way you want. We do not coat the inside of mufflers, catalytic converters or expansion chambers because they are not very accessible and there is very little coating that would bond to the inside of the parts.

 

The most critical step in getting a coating to achieve a tenacious bond to the base metal of an exhaust part is by applying a good abrasive blast on the part at about a 90° angle to the substrate. Simply put, there are few exhaust parts that are open and accessible enough to apply this type of blast. If a good blast cannot be obtained there is no possible way a permanent bond will be achieved. This is why we take the time to mask off the interior surfaces of turbo parts. For the small amount of area that a good bond can be achieved on, it is not worth taking the risk of coating the inside where the coating could come off and damage the turbo.

If you look at the spec sheet on Jet Hot's exhaust coating page it says the same thing: https://www.jet-hot.com/thermal-barrier/

Maybe there's another way to do it, but if the entire inside can't be internally coated, I'm not sure I want to take the risk of having these headers rot out like my current ones.