Adam30

These pegs are about one inch lower than stock. It appears that the brake pedal has about that much adjustment left in it, but of course its up to your personal taste whether itl be enough...

Picked up my Ulysses pegs from the dealer last weekend and installed them. A few small notes...

The holes in the new pegs are much larger than the pin, or holes in our OEM pegs. When installing the pin with the new pegs, it appears to be a nice tight fit though, only because the new peg actually isnt able to center itself on the stock mounting bracket....it sticks out a bit. This really doesnt matter....but it shows that it is actually not a direct replacement. But, we kind of knew that anyways....they're parts off a different bike. But, it does fasten fairly securely, and as others said, using the washer that is normally against the cotter pin to wedge in between the peg and the mounting bracket is just enough to tighten the peg up and get rid of the bit of clearance that's there. It isnt necessary though.

When the new pegs are installed, when pivoted to the downward position, they dont actually retract and sit totally level, because of how the inside of the new peg hits the mounting bracket just a bit. Unfortunately, i did end up grinding just a tad off of each peg to stop it from hitting, so now the pegs retract down to being totally level. But we're only talking about a max of 5 seconds each, literally with a bench grinder. The stock spring fits fairly well with the new pegs, although there is a bit more slack and the spring doesnt seem to fit as tight with quite as much tension. But...the spring is still able to work correctly and push the peg down if its ever pushed up.

I havent finished adjusting the shifter/brake lever yet. Im still trying to find the best adjustment on the spline for the shifter...my initial adjustment still had the lever up a bit too high, but one notch down and it was too low. Ill have to find the best spot and probably just get used to it im thinking. I havent tackled the brake lever adjustment at all yet.

After installing them on the bike, at first glance they look totally huge for the bike....but, its like other changes you make...you get used to it fairly quickly, and i actually like the idea of the new pegs being larger and having more surface area on them. And besides, especially if you go for the silver version, its not something thats really going to be noticable unless you're looking FOR it.

I did ride the bike about 20 miles with them on, and ive gotta say I love them. Just the inch change in leg position almost makes you feel for a second that youre on a different bike, and im anticipating much less knee discomfort on those 500 mile freeway stretches.

I wondered a bit about vibration with these pegs, since the stock ones have the rubber padding on them to isolate vibration. But, I can honestly say I cannot feel any difference whatsoever so far in vibration. I havent riddent it extensively yet, but i figure if any vibration problems didnt jump out at me so far, then it wont be an issue at all.

Even though the fit isnt totally perfect, it's still a great mod for $24 each (in the silver version). The same pegs in black are about double the price. If you want your legs to stretch a bit more, i think this one's a no-brainer. If you chose to do the bit of grinding and the adjustment of the levers, plan on about 30 minutes total for everything.

Just ordered those part # pegs from a Buell/HD/BMW dealer an hour or so from here. Mite as well make a mini-road trip out of it, as its a good excuse to spend some time looking at the new BMW's too....lol.

$24 each, about 3 days to get them.

Excellent....sounds good. As long as the Canadian/US part numbers are the same, I'll be ordering a set...

Thanks for the info...

Just to add my input, and to keep this thread alive...

I stopped at an HD dealer yesterday, and checked out an '09 Ulysses and the pegs that were on it. I inquired what the pegs would cost at the parts counter for an '09. She looked them up and even wrote down the part numbers for me to take with;

N0503.4AK

N0502.4AK

$46 Each, and they'd have to order them

Im assuming these are the black versions, like the '09 on the floor had. I would like to know if they're available in silver too.

As well, are we clear on the fact that the Ulysses pegs are the ones that require no modifications, or cutting, grinding, or installing other hardware to get them to fit right? Im interested in an install that requires little or no modifications at all.

If anyone happens to know what year the Ulysses had the silver pegs and if that model year is the same as the new ones, that'd be appreciated too.

You're exactly right. If it were warranty, then itd be a different story. But, a recall says that they are to replace the harness, period. They're fixing a known issue that could or likely will exist, at some point in the bike's life. In doing this, they are obligated to replace the suspect parts with their updated version and thats it. If you were to tamper with the wiring AFTER that, then they could refuse covering any costs if the known problem came up.

People have a hard time understanding this, even with warrantys. If the owner tampers with the manufacturer's original design and theres a failure, then you cant hold the manufacturer responsible. But in a recall, they are to service the bike irregardless, and install their updated part. Period.

Sounds like more of a dealer issue than a Honda issue to me.....

To follow up with this thread incase some of you didnt see my post in my other thread from last week, the official word from Honda is that the velocity stacks are to be both short in front and both tall in the rear.

Sorry....I did mean LF and RR short. That's what the service manual seems to indicate as well, but it is a bit vague

Hey, just got your post from the other thread to look at this one, lol.

Ive presented this issue on a couple of different threads and was starting to lose track on where i was, lol.

But anyways, that is interesting....and i know it's been kind of a debate here before. THe way i saw the illustration in the service manual was LF and RR were to be short. It is "fairly" clear in my manual, but not perectly clear. The one thing i have noticed the past couple times of disassembly was that the little index marks they put on the stacks dont always seem to line up with the corresponding marks on the airbox.

But, just looked at the VFRD Parts list, which ive never done before....and you're correct, its showing both #6's up front and two #7's in the back.

Im going to go back and look....I swear there were guys saying that their bikes were LF-short RR-Tall and that they havent been touched from the factory. But i guess ive heard it both ways now that i think of it.....

Hmmmm.......

Just to add my input for the heck of it, my '02 has had the hesitation almost all along...although I really started noting it last summer (coincidentally after reading about it here). I always notice it around town, between 4-5k rpm under very slight throttle. Some days its worse than others, but one thing I did notice is that in the mountains and higher altitudes is where itd seem to be noticably worse. I now have 36k miles on it and everything is totally stock besides the BMC air filter which i just changed from the former KN I had in there. I havent messed with the flapper, PAIR, or any other emissions equipment at all. Stock exhaust as well. I did adjust my starter valves two summers ago just for the heck of it because it was mentioned on here so much at the time. My velocity stacks are short/tall in front and tall/short on the rear head. Ive double checked this a couple times, since thats how the Honda service manual illustrates they should be.

And to answer someones question earlier, I did recently have the wiring recall done, and no apparent change in the surging issue afterwards. Ive just gotten used to the fact that this is characteristic of the bike and is probably due to its super lean setup from the factory.

Like many agree, the FI setup on these bikes is super lean....a little too lean I believe, so much so that it borders on poor drivability issues. I just figure this surging is just another result of this.

Oh, and ive also changed my wax unit over this past winter just because ive heard of numerous issues with it on others bikes, and i had it torn apart anyways in that area. This also did not help or effect the surging....its still there just like it was before.

That's a good idea...now that i already bought mine, lol.

But even if a group buy doesnt happen, remember that they're only about $23 a piece from a place like Service Honda. And then a few bucks for bulbs....if you can find them. I just ordered mine online from Bike Bandit, for about $29 a piece. And yes, i like how they look, especially now that ive got the right bulbs in.

I originally purchased the 7443 "silvers" online that were supposed to light up as amber. They did, but the light output was so dim most likely from their "coating" on the bulb, that I went searching elsewhere. That and they had their own style of plastic end on it at the base by the connection prongs, and this design didnt let the bulb snap securely in place. I had visions of the bulb vibrating out inside the lense assembly. So, i did just order some true 7443A's off of some place on Amazon; 10pack for $12, and they look to be the real deal. I checked all the parts stores, honda dealers, and no one seems to have a listing for a 7443 in an amber. hopefully the bulb will be used more widely over the next couple years, making it easier to get.

And as for the bringing in your own parts thing, they probably wont have an issue with it especially if they're Honda parts. But, they reserve the right to not install parts supplied by you. I get the same thing here once and awhile in the automotive business here. Many people deliberately buy the parts at a discount parts place, and ask us to install them, because them buying the parts elsewhere is much less expensive. I can understand their logic, but then I also ask them if they bring their own steaks to the restaurant and ask them to cook them for them.

Im not sure why you wouldnt want to have it done. I wouldnt be scared off by some of the horror threads on the internet; most of the people who've had no issues with their experience (which is the majority) arent gonna post anything in the first place. I think it'd be wiser to get the update done just for peace of mind's sake. I had no idea I had an issue until I lost my lights in the middle of nowhere one night, out of state, and luckily my buddy lived within riding distance away. Then the next day, the bike died out after hitting a bump in Mt St Helens park....again with no one around. Again, i was lucky to have it start again and get me back to portland.

They're offering a fix for a problem that could leave you stranded that looks to be reliable, and free of charge. I understand your concerns with having someone else tinkering with your bike, believe me. If it makes you feel better, do what I did and take the bodywork off yourself so at least theres no chance of there being any cosmetic-related screw ups on their part. besides that, the wiring install itself if pretty straight forward, and with the bodywork off, you'll be able to inspect their installation job as you see fit.

Amsoil 10w-40 Motorcycle specific formula for me.

Because of an issue i had with my '02 last weekend, I'd like to check into this post and post my issue....even though i dont have the fix yet....

Took the bike from LA to Portland. Everything was perfect. Riding up at Mt St Helens one day, i hit a very large bump in the road, which caused the bike to die out upon the front end hitting it. Shut off instantly, like someone turned off the key. No sputtering or anything. Then, a second later it was back on. Of course i got nervous and turned around to head back to portland. Hit every bump i could for the 45 minute ride back, and the bike was fine, even though i couldnt find any that were as severe as the one that caused the bike to die. I left the bike at my buddy's place in portland after i flew home here; he called yesterday to say he was riding it and it died at a stoplight, but started right up again. Just sitting there; no bumps or jostling of the bike at all. It was fine for him the rest of the day, which was about another 3-4 hrs of riding.

Now thinking back, i did have a problem with the headlights not turning on a few weeks ago. At this time, i cycled the key and highbeam switch to get them back on, and to my knowlege has been fine since. But, most of my riding is during the day, so they may have failed since then and i didnt notice it.

Last fall, i did have the main wiring harness replaced by the dealer per the extended warranty because of worn through/broken wires which resulted in a misfire. Should i still be looking at the infamous blue connection? Upon hitting this bump last week, i was thinking that maybe the bank angle/stop sensor up front got jostled around too much, but then the headlight thing popped into my head as i read some of the previous posts on this thread.

So basically, intermittent dying out which only started after hitting a severe bump. And previous headlight failure. There was alot to scroll though in this thread, so dont scream at me too much yet for not looking back before posting. Thanks in advance.

You could go to an autoparts store too. They might want an application, so just tell them it's for an early 90's Chevrolet Astro van or full size van, which uses shim adjustments for the camber/caster. They'll be cheap, and hopefully can be obtained individually instead of in a pack.