whiteknuckles
-
Posts
39 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Gallery
Blogs
Downloads
Events
Posts posted by whiteknuckles
-
-
In the process of putting new brake pads on my 6th gen. I notice the piston side of the rear brake rotor is smooth as glass. The other side of the rotor has ridges/grooves. Anything I need to worry about? If so, what could be the cause and what is the remedy?
-
I'm not sure why my rebuild of my Cam Chain Tensioner (per the referenced youtube video) didn't work. I rebuilt/re-tensioned it twice per the vid and still had a lot of noise. I recently replaced the front and rear CCT and now hear no rattle. I was going to test the new CCT against the old one on a scale (outward pressure applied by the re-wound spring) but stopped when I remember the CCT doesn't retract, which meant I would have has to rewind the brand new CCT. At this point, I'm inclined to forego the "rebuild" and just get 2 new ones in another 35K.
-
18 hours ago, Grum said:
Wonder if you're hearing the Air Intake Flapper Solenoid activating, are all your Vaccum hoses good with no leaks? Could it be that the air intake flapper Vaccum hose to the diaphragm is not on?
The flapper is disconnected and the vacuum line plugged. Will be opening up the airbox in a day or two to check out the vacuum lines. Was just hoping for a quick fix had someone else had this problem before. Trying to do a search on this site is difficult.
-
After my bike is well warmed up, like 200 fahrenhiet, the idle speed drops and the engine dies. I turned up the idle speed from 1100 to about 2000 rpm, but the problem continues. Starts right back up. If a massage the throttle, I can hear a clicking under the tank as the revs go up/down. Any ideas?
-
How timely that this is being (re)discussed. I've "rebuilt" my CCT using the fore mentioned youtube video three times in the last 10k miles. My rattle is back with a vengeance. This time I'm just going to replace it with an new OEM unit. I can't figure out why the rewinding process doesn't seem to work for me. I can't imagine the spring tension of the rebuilt unit is significantly less than an new one. Once I get the new unit, before I install it, I think I'm going to measure the amount of force the plunger delivers as compared to the rebuilt one. I'll post up once done.
-
Hi Anonymous,
Thank you for your donation of 15.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.
Thanks VFRDiscussion
-
I'm a little confused by your question. Are you looking to install the Kappa Monokey mounts in place of your Ventura mounts or somehow mount the Kappas to the Ventura mounts? Just looking at the Ventura mounts online, it doesn't look like the The Kappa pannier mount uses the same bolt configuration as the Ventura mounts, so I don't think the Kappa mounts are a direct swap with the Venturas. Zip ties may be sufficient to mount the Kappa mount to the Venturas, but I'd just remove the Venturas and install the Kappas. I have the same panniers and love them. I also have a large Givi top box as well, and the combined storage capacity has not left me wanting more.
Edit: I didn't notice this was originally posted November 25th. Probably not much help at this point...
-
Thanks all!
-
Can anyone tell me if the OEM fairing on a US '02 had the "VFR" logo on them?
-
On 11/2/2018 at 2:19 PM, sudo said:
Check that your fan mount isn't bent. My fan was grinding against the radiator after my last crash. Bending the fan mount a bit gave the fan enough clearance to spin freely again.
I did just that. After a little gentle encouragement, it seems to be ok. Wont really know for sure until I get her all back together, but all seems well.
-
7 hours ago, Skids said:
No thought of getting a used OEM from a breaker?
Considered it, but my current radiator is only SLIGHTLY banged up, hardly noticeable, and that's enough for the fan to no longer spin. So I'd be concerned that another used one would just be more of the same.
-
Needing to replace a few parts on my lady after an accident. Looks like a new left OEM radiator is about $300+, whereas after market run $200. Anyone have positive experiences with an aftermarket radiator?
-
My '02 has 51k miles. Recently rebuilt (twice) then replaced the front cam chain tensioner for what I thought was a loose cam chain. I still hear chain noise. I rebuilt the rear tensioner at the same time as the first go round up front and have no issues. I recently had the valves inspected (no adjustments need, all in spec!) and was wondering if checking the chain tension would be part of that maintenance. How many miles do most people put on their bikes before (if ever) the cam chain stretches to the point of replacement/failure. From what I've read about the VFR, it seems rare to have a stretched out chain.
-
My year old battery appears to be dead. I have a 5 month old Shindengen FH020AA R&R from Roadstercycle that generates 14.2 V when my bike is running (inline volt meter verified). I recently noticed that with my bike running, my voltmeter readout was jumping from between 8v to 14.2v. My bike even suddenly died, which I attributed to a bad Garmin GPS I had hardwired to my bike. I disconnected the Garmin and thought my problem was fixed, but no. I've charged my battery on both a trickle charger and a 2A charger. Both show the battery to be fully charged within minutes of connecting it up, but once I connect it to my bike, the voltage drops from 12v to 8.5v within moments and the bike wont turn over. I can bump start it and see the R&R is generating 14.2v, but once I turn of the ignition and try to start it again, the voltmeter reads 8.4v.
My question is, given the R&R is generating 14.2v when the engine is running, does this appear to be a bad battery?
-
Hi whiteknuckles,
Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.
Thanks VFRDiscussion
-
1 hour ago, bykemike said:
recheck the wattage calcs, I believe 12 gauge wire is ok for 20 amps, so amp x volts = watts...240 watts. I am certain you can figure 12gauge for 25 amps but that would be pushing the possible heat gain in the wire.
Link to ampacity table below
Thanks for the correction. Looks like I'm well below the danger zone for the power draw on a 12 gauge wire.
-
21 minutes ago, Lorne said:
Looks like the distribution block is properly wired to the bike so no worries about on that front. Still worth checking the connections linking the stator/rectifier-regulator/starter relay/battery for any signs of corrosion or heat stress.
I think you meant to say that the vest consumes 4.3 Amps/51 watts and 2 amps/25 watts for the gloves.
You are correct about the wattage draw error. I also screwed up the max wattage for 12 gauge wire at 12V. Looks like it' 408 watts, so I'm well within the safe zone. I'll check those connections.
-
I was incorrect that the distribution block receives its power from the tail light. The tail light only powers a relay. This is my current set-up :
I will check the gauge of the wire from my battery to the relay, but I'm pretty sure its 12 gauge, which is rated to 25W I believe. I don't believe I'm in danger of frying any wires, as my Tour Master Vest pulls 4.3W, my gloves pull 2W. I can't find a definitive number for my GPS, but I'd be surprised if it pulls more than 12W (1 amp @ 12V). The voltmeter I have installed is +/- 0.1 Volt from my Fluke multi-meter.
-
1 minute ago, ZCD76 said:
Yes, but I don't have anything that constantly draws off the block. I installed it for USB-type devices - recharging/charging the phone, navigation, and such devices when I'm riding.
Will wire it up that way and see what I get for voltage. Thanks.
-
3 minutes ago, ZCD76 said:
Directly off the battery is where I would recommend. I have a distribution block wired directly to the battery with a 10 gauge wire. I see no less than 14.1 volts off of it.
Does that mean the block is always "hot"? (ie never turns off)
-
21 minutes ago, Lee 2002 said:
So you're powering heated gear, and a GPS from a 28 gauge wire that is intended to run two 21 watt lamps?Where would you recommend? Did the same on my SV650. Had it for 5 years w/o a problem. No melted taillight wires. But if there's a better spot, let me know.
-
2 hours ago, VFROZ said:
A good battery standing should have around 13v.
so in theory 12.8v is not putting back what you used to start the bike with.
Is that the voltage you're getting at over 5000 revs?
Where are you reading voltage from?
I'm taking the reading from a distrubution block I installed that has my heated gear and tomtom GPS. The power to the block is spliced from my tailight. The ground from the block is good.
-
Recently added a voltmeter to my '02. Without heated gear on, I'm getting 13.8 V when running at speed, which I know is pretty typical. With vest and gloves on full blast, I get 12.7 to 12.9 volts. Is that enough to still charge my battery?
-
Opening this up for another question. At the start of this thread, there is mention of a "key" above and below the 7th photo. I know there are two bolts on either side of the CCT, and there appears to be a bolt at the center of the CCT that is also removed. Are the pliers being used to grasp the key while the CCT is pulled from the case to prevent the shaft of the CCT from extending ? If so, do you apply a pulling force to the pliers, or do you use the pliers to keep the key in place while you remove the CCT?
Rear brake rotor grooved wear
in Suspension
Posted
ugh. $202 OEM. Still life left on the pads, but definitely uneven wear. Thanks for the input.