ggathagan

Next step: Clear gold/yellow anodizing for the frame, SSA and other aluminum bits.

I decided long ago that the best solution to deal with cold weather riding: Move to where there's no cold weather !! :thumbsup:

Trivia question - Anybody remember the movie that uses the company name Yoyodyne? Starring Robocop & Doc.

Bukaroo Banzai ?

I actually watched it recently (again). Dated, but still amusing.

I was going to ask the status on this, but went to your gallery and saw the pics.

That looks sweeet !!

I've always thought that gold graphics look good on white pearl, but with the polished rims and canister, I like your treatment much better.

Congrats on an excellent job :thumbsup:

Decided to repack my Micron CF and didn't see a repack kit on their website, so bought a stainless steel kit from a local dealer and installed it. When I got off after my first ride, the canister was too hot to touch. Before, it only got warm.

So I'm back with the stock muffler and called Micron to order their rebuild kit.

SS wool will conduct heat much better than fiberglass or ceramic packing, so I would expect the extra heat.

Thanks everyone !

Just so ya'll know, the North American distributor for SilentSport:

http://areapnolimits.com/silentsport.html

Prices:

250g bag - All 2-stroke and most small 4-stroke of road mufflers - MSRP $19.95

450g bag - Large 4-stroke offroad mufflers and many Sportbike mufflers - MSRP $24.95

700g bag - Sportbike mufflers - MSRP $39.95

They don't have an automated shopping mechanism, but you can email them to order and they'll tell you the total cost.

They take credit cards or Paypal.

:thumbsup:

Most of the stuffin's in my Wolf underseat are blown away and I'm going to repack it with stainless steel wool.

Since it comes in three grades (fine, medium, coarse), I thought I'd see if anybody has done this and, if so, what grade they used.

I know some folks have used stainless steel Choreboy pads, but I thought that the wool might be a better material.

Any (relevant) :goofy: opinions ?

Oh, and I might mention that I had previously tried some #194 incandescent bulbs from the local auto store that were painted blue (from the factory) and they were very dim.

Even in the darkest night, the gauge faces were too dim to be immediately readable, but the LED's are a whole 'nother story!  :P

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That looks great !

I think I know what my next mods will be: LED's and the horns.

you want your kids to be flashers???? :huh:

is it possible to have a unit that flashes s.o.s in morris code when you hit the brakes?  or  "you are too damn close"  in morris code of course??

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While in college, one of our digital electronics projects was to create a moving sign.

We placed a row of LED's on a stick, and programmed the LED's to light in a certain sequence.

It you waved the stick back-and-forth at the proper speed, your eyes would create a message out of the entire space that you were waving the stick in.

Now if you could get a motor to wave a stick on the back of the bike just right:

Instant message board ! :huh:

Oh, the messages that you could give to the driver behind you....

Good luck on the front sliders, but I doubt it is possible to have front sliders that would be strong enough to withstand a crash without cutting anything. You must also keep in mind balance points, and if a location would lever, for example the front end into the ground, etc, etc.

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Just to stir the pot, HPS markets a set of sliders that don't require you to cut the fairing:

Search for #24912 on the webpage:

http://www.bikehps.com/acatalog/BikeHPS_On...r_Honda_19.html

We had a discussion over at the VFR mailing list about these about a year ago.

Those who didn't have them thought that the would end up damaging your radiators.

A couple of owners that *did* have them said that they had proven to be crash-worthy:

https://lists.cs.wisc.edu/archive/vfr/2005-.../msg00353.shtml

VFR world used to have pictures of an installation, but since the site revamp, I can't find the article.